Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[Mr. Fisherman]

Originally Posted by malibu_dan

Here's a teaser to my next project...

Your gonna love it... but since I put mine on nobody comments on my pics

[edteamslr]

Originally Posted by Dracothius

So I've got a few questions regarding the WR. Can it handle 50k, if so can it handle 100k(miles)? How is it's subframe? Can it handle being fully loaded? Can it handle a passenger on the road and on limestone roads? NO this is not my main use for the bike but I need it to be able to do it. I do plan on riding it quite a bit and carrying my wife on the bike every so often. It seems like a really nice bike but if it can't handle these requirements I would have to go bigger. Thanks, just looking for info on the bike and seeing if it could fill the role I need it to fill.

It's only a matter of time before someone will need to ask how big your wife is in order to answer the question. The subframe is steel and strong enough to withstand being loaded up with extra fuel and camping kit and shaken violently for weeks on rough roads (not sure what the highest mileages are on this forum for WR users but I suspect it is more than 50k miles by now). The weakness to your scenario is around whether the bike has enough power to propel the two of you in a way that doesn't drive you mad. Yes, it can take a pillion but the two of you end up sitting very closely together (with you on the narrow front, I assume) and makes the bike feel like it has half the horsepower. Which isn't very much when you've got only about 25 to begin with. The bike's suspension is also rather 'boing-gy' to begin with and while the rear spring is capable of carrying another person, I have no idea what maxing-out the rear shock will do to the handling. Don't expect miracles. So I would say - yes it can, ideally for very short periods of time but don't expect miracles or cross-continent, 2-up adventures on it.
[as a bike that mainly for you, you just may end up buying one and loving it. that's what happened to me]

[Mr. Fisherman]

Originally Posted by trav72

Please document the install. I've been very interested in the Lynx setup but haven't seen anyone show install photos.

I have the first one in the US for the WR250 and did a write up of the install.

Here is the link...

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t2...install-wr250x

[MoBill]

Originally Posted by Jäger

Or, on this bike, just give the back of the tire a good solid thump. Don't take much.

This.

[crash a-ron]

Originally Posted by Jäger

One..... Freaking... Rock. The Golden BB.

Wow! Any chance you'll show us some photos of your chain? It had to be really hot as it was cutting through that rock.

Is chain condition a common factor when folks swingarms start getting eaten?

[Jäger]

Originally Posted by crash a-ron

Wow! Any chance you'll show us some photos of your chain? It had to be really hot as it was cutting through that rock.

I can go take some pics if you want. But it looks remarkably ordinary. If you're looking for a discolored chain, you'll be disappointed. If I get motivated, I will go out and do the measurement Yamaha specifies between links to determine how much it stretched. I keep meaning to do that, but with my bike back on the road and summer perhaps finally here, everytime I wander out to the garage I seem to end up going riding instead (that is, the last two whole days).

Is chain condition a common factor when folks swingarms start getting eaten?

My problems had everything to do with that evil rock, I believe. I will theorize that munched swingarms are generally the result of chains being set too tight on bikes that get a lot of time on roads where the rear suspension goes through it's full range of travel - take a look at where the wear occurs. I will further theorize that 12 tooth sprockies get blamed for this because their smaller diameter means that excessive tension has a greater effect - and the corollary is that a 14 tooth front sprockie will give you a bit of an additional buffer from damage if your chain is too tight.

But... I'm just guessing.

[bhd1223]

Originally Posted by Jäger

Or, on this bike, just give the back of the tire a good solid thump. Don't take much.

Yes, I tried that but it kept sliding back. When I loosen axle nuts I LOOSEN them. From now on I'll be leaving it rather snug when making adjustments. I noticed even slightly snug allows the wheel to slide backwards.

[HardWorkingDog]

Originally Posted by bhd1223

Yes, I tried that but it kept sliding back. When I loosen axle nuts I LOOSEN them. From now on I'll be leaving it rather snug when making adjustments. I noticed even slightly snug allows the wheel to slide backwards.

Whacking the tire/wheel doesn't inspire a lot of confidence, for me at least. I'm sure the screwdriver system would work (although I'm not sure I want to put that kind of stress on one link), for me it's just a lot simpler to sit behind the bike, squeeze the chain with my left hand (thumb pulling upper chain down, fingers pulling lower chain up, trying to get the chain runs to touch the swingarm) and tighten the axle nut with my right hand. I KNOW the wheel is snug against the axle blocks that way.

Funny story, well, maybe funny...

When we were racing (son rode, I wrenched) I was spending lots of time on tires/wheels/chains between races. It was a busy, hectic time and at some point I began to realize I was having...chest pain. Tried to ignore it for awhile, but it was getting worse so I called and was scheduled for an EKG, pretty promptly. Perfectly normal. Hmmm. A big race season was nearing the end, and I was putting on a new rear tire. I sat down to adjust the chain after replacing the wheel and suddenly figured out the source of my chest pain: I'd gotten into the habit of pushing the wheel against the axle blocks with..........my chest. Stopped doing THAT method, chest pain went away.

[SkidMarx]

Originally Posted by bhd1223

Yes, I tried that but it kept sliding back. When I loosen axle nuts I LOOSEN them. From now on I'll be leaving it rather snug when making adjustments. I noticed even slightly snug allows the wheel to slide backwards.

Maybe a bungee around the tire and the shock. Haven't tried it, but it's worth a try.

[bhd1223]

Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog

Whacking the tire/wheel doesn't inspire a lot of confidence, for me at least. I'm sure the screwdriver system would work (although I'm not sure I want to put that kind of stress on one link), for me it's just a lot simpler to sit behind the bike, squeeze the chain with my left hand (thumb pulling upper chain down, fingers pulling lower chain up, trying to get the chain runs to touch the swingarm) and tighten the axle nut with my right hand. I KNOW the wheel is snug against the axle blocks that way.

Funny story, well, maybe funny...

When we were racing (son rode, I wrenched) I was spending lots of time on tires/wheels/chains between races. It was a busy, hectic time and at some point I began to realize I was having...chest pain. Tried to ignore it for awhile, but it was getting worse so I called and was scheduled for an EKG, pretty promptly. Perfectly normal. Hmmm. A big race season was nearing the end, and I was putting on a new rear tire. I sat down to adjust the chain after replacing the wheel and suddenly figured out the source of my chest pain: I'd gotten into the habit of pushing the wheel against the axle blocks with..........my chest. Stopped doing THAT method, chest pain went away.

Maybe that's why my shoulder has been hurting. Where's when I need it?
Just to be clear I don't whack tires, just push and put pressure on them.

[DougZ73]

Outside my little trips every now and again, most of my riding is tight, whooped out, technical and bouncy riding. I try to be as fast and light as possible.

A tank bag is out of the question, since I need to be able to get up on tank to throw bike into some of the corners.

I usually use my Hydrapak Laguna bag. Its has a three Liter bladder, that I usually only fill with 1.5 liters. In the bag section, I carry some minimal tools, tire air gauge, and in a dry bag, my water, cellphone, and cash.

I would like to try and go back to using just my CamelPack classic...and get the tools and wallet/cell/cash off my back.

So, I am looking at either a number plate style bag, or one I could secure to my Automotive Machine Supply rear rack..but if I go that route..it has to be small and not hit me when doing the whoops.

Any suggestions appreciated. Links also helpful.

[Crawdaddy]

Originally Posted by DougZ73

has to be small and not hit me when doing the whoops.

Any suggestions appreciated. Links also helpful.

http://www.wolfmanluggage.com/Enduro...ddle_bags.html

Put'em on and forget about'em.......you can even stuff a jacket/water bottle inside in addition to your tools......they'll carry way more than you need yet you won't even know they're there.............and this way there's no tail bag hitting you in the ass when you scoot back on downhills or bounce through the whoops....

[Oh2RideMore]

So a year later my impression of adding HID bulb to the factory bulb holder on wr250r is DONT DO IT. The shallow basket of the WR does not make a good light pattern, and allows the heat from the bulb,higher than a halogen bulb, to erode/burn off the reflector coating on basket. Looking for a replacement now, thinking of a lynx fairing with built in hid support. If anyone has a factory glass reflector, please PM me. I did find a replacement made in italy for 55 $ online, but unsure of the thickness on reflector coating.
http://www.fourstrokesonly.com/headlights.html

[HardWorkingDog]

Originally Posted by DougZ73

... most of my riding is tight, whooped out, technical and bouncy riding. I try to be as fast and light as possible. A tank bag is out of the question, since I need to be able to get up on tank to throw bike into some of the corners...

At least I'm not the only one who doesn't want a tank bag . Worked great on my street bike, but no way for the way I ride my WRR.

I'm leaning towards a number plate bag--this one, specifically:



Don't have any experience with the bag or the company, but I like what I see on his website. He answered a couple questions I had promptly...Noticed that Rydnseek uses an ersatz number plate bag as well, seems to work for him.

[Crawdaddy]

Originally Posted by Oh2RideMore

So a year later my impression of adding HID bulb to the factory bulb holder on wr250r is DONT DO IT. The shallow basket of the WR does not make a good light pattern, and allows the heat from the bulb,higher than a halogen bulb, to erode/burn off the reflector coating on basket. Looking for a replacement now, thinking of a lynx fairing with built in hid support. If anyone has a factory glass reflector, please PM me. I did find a replacement made in italy for 55 $ online, but unsure of the thickness on reflector coating.
http://www.fourstrokesonly.com/headlights.html

After riding KTMs for so many years I must say I'm REALLY impressed by the "stock" WR250R headlight......it's actually pretty darn good........my 02 KTM 520EXC offers the equivalent of a match on low beam and Bic lighter on high beam .......it's pretty useless..........and you really can't upgrade the stock headlight on the KTM without also upgrading the stator......yet another positive for the little bike