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Old 08-02-2011, 05:10 PM   #4366
ravenranger
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That will definitely work, especially with 6 foot of wire that it says it comes with.

Stop by autozone and pick up an inline fuse holder for about $3. Pick up a 10 amp fuse while you're at it.



Wire the fuse holder to the positive (+) side of the battery. Wire the other end of the fuse holder to the positive wire of your cigarette plug (it's probably the yellow wire if yours is exactly like the one pictured on Amazon). Wire the other wire (the black one) on your cigarette plug to either the negative side of your battery or to a good ground point on the frame. Stick your 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder and you're good to go.

That's the quick and dirty way to do it, just remember to unplug your GPS when you park so you don't run your battery down.

If you don't want to have to worry about unplugging your GPS every time you shut down, then you'd definitely want to get some help to wire it into a power wire that only has power when the key is on and it would be good idea to have a relay in that case.

Good luck.
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ravenranger screwed with this post 08-02-2011 at 05:15 PM
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Old 08-02-2011, 05:18 PM   #4367
larry31
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GPS wiring

Firecat318

You don't say what GPS you have.
It's important to know the correct voltage required by it.

Most Automotive and motorcycle GPS's take 12 - 14 volts. I'll base my information on that.
Did your GPS come with a cigarette lighter plug that mates to your power connector?

Use crimp lugs for connecting to battery. Solder ( if possible ) the wires to connector and fuse.
18 GA wire is good for connecting it all.
The inline fuse and lugs can normally be gotten from a auto parts store.
Below is a basic connecting diagram. Just be aware that the connector will have power to it all the time.
You will have to make sure you turn off, or unplug, anything that is connected to it, when you shut down, or you will drain the battery.
A better way is to wire a switch into the hot lead.

You say, you’re not good at wiring. That is why I’m giving you a “real basic” wiring diagram.
You may be able to find someone near you, that knows more, to help with the wiring.

larry31 screwed with this post 08-02-2011 at 05:24 PM
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:32 PM   #4368
thirstybuck
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Headlight

Huckster-
I sent you an pm with some questions about the headlight.

Fellow NXers-
I had my NX inspected and they said it needs a number of things in order to pass, two of them being front and rear fork seals (surprise!). I found these seals on motosupersomething. Has anyone used these? This will be my 1st experience replacing seals. I will replace the rear shock with one from a suzuki, but I haven't quite figured out which one I should use.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...T.ac=Cart_Item

Thanks,

TB

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Old 08-03-2011, 02:28 PM   #4369
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Where the heck do you live, that you need rear fork seals to pass inspection?
what are rear fork seals anyways?

here it's DOT tires, headlight, taillight, left mirror with chain/sprockets in good order to pass...
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:11 PM   #4370
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In Arizona you need a horn, too....


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Old 08-03-2011, 05:59 PM   #4371
TheRadBaron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ValveCrusher View Post
I'll check my spare parts, and let you know if i find one...i have a few boxes, that i'm not TOTALLY sure WHAT all is in there...

there might be one in there, there might not...
Thanks a lot. Just shoot me a PM if you find one. I'm itching to get this bike street-legal and on the road. Not that I don't ride it on the road anyway, but it will be nice to not have to be paranoid.
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:24 PM   #4372
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tips when trouble shooting warped clutch plates?

Hey all,

I've just started to have a kind of knock sound in my clutch as of a few days ago. Well... truthfully its been there for awhile it's just starting to be more noticeable after about thirty miles of bumpy gravel roads.

So..I think it's probably warped clutch plates. or at least that's what I've been told.

My questions are
1. is changing an NX clutch pretty strait forward? The manual makes it seem like you need a couple of special tools I.E. lock nut wrench and clutch center holder.

2. What other maintenance should I perform while I've got the side case off?

3. I was told they probably warped from riding/slipping the clutch too much while riding, is this truth?

Thanks for the advice ahead of time it seems this thread has a pretty fantastic following, who are mostly out to help each other.
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:08 PM   #4373
muddyrabbit
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Hi all, new to this thread. I was recently drafted in helping a friend of my girl friend get into riding. Helping her with lessons, finding a bike for her, and now on to some customization. This isnt my first time on this carnival ride either, seems to happen every year. Now the odd thing this year is this girl is tall ( she could actually flat foot my BMW), which left us way more options for bikes. Yet somehow, we ended up with the shortest bike any of the moto girls of past years have picked out. Hey, this is the bike that she loved, waddaya gonna do? So looking toward the future, it seems like a great oportunity for the bike to grow with her. Has anyone ever laced up a 21/18 wheel combo on an NX250?
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:41 PM   #4374
ArthDuro
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>RedBaron if VC doesn't find any let me know I may have one in the spare box. Did you ever get the other piece?

>Spigma, the clutch is pretty straight forward job but like any other a little thing can make things complicated.
Follow the manual and make sure the lifter is back on properly.
Check the front page for a detailed write up on doing the nx clutch.The tools can be made easily or bought cheap through motion pro.

>RE GPS: Ravenrangers solution to the power outlet is by far the easiest one. Everyone should have a tender or some kind of battery charger anyways. Tenders are great units and I have had the same battery on my bike for 4 years.
However this a pretty good and also easy wiring setup for anyone who wants to have power outlet for accesories. I think Larrys diagram pretty much draws the whole thing out. Anyone can do this. There are also other outlet types and that are waterproof and easy to mount. Usb power is handy too.

>muddyrabbit lots of wheel conversions have been done, an 18 on the stock swing arm will not work
but you can put a 17in wheel in. Read a bit through the thread and you will find lots of ideas and solutions.

>thirstybuck it helps a little if you provided some more info on the general state of the bike. The shop doing the safety on the bike should not be telling you that you need a seal for an unservicable unit. If your forks are leaking oil I can understand them not wanting to call that safe but to tell you what you say they did doesn't sound right. I would shop arround some more.
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:36 AM   #4375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spigma View Post
Hey all,

I've just started to have a kind of knock sound in my clutch as of a few days ago. Well... truthfully its been there for awhile it's just starting to be more noticeable after about thirty miles of bumpy gravel roads.
Check your clutch bearing as well.
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:52 PM   #4376
Spigma
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Check your clutch bearing as well.
Now is that bearing fairly prone to being worn out on a bike that only has 4300 mile on it? I was hoping that it was just a warped plate because worn bearings are a bit of a pain imho.

Any tips on making a tool to get that pesky lock-nut off the housing? I'm kinda out of my normal area for a few months and don't really have a proper shop for fabing up anything real intricate.
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Old 08-05-2011, 10:55 PM   #4377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spigma View Post
Now is that bearing fairly prone to being worn out on a bike that only has 4300 mile on it? I was hoping that it was just a warped plate because worn bearings are a bit of a pain imho.
If you guys are talking about the clutch basket case bearing?...it CAN be bad with low miles, IF you have overtightened your chain and ridden for any amount of miles...

With the engine running, click the bike into -N-, neutral...let the clutch lever out...see if you can hear the noise..pull in the clutch lever and see if it gets louder?
Also, find a hill(slight)...shift into a higher gear, repeatedly let the clutch lever out, and drawn back in....don't use the throttle....see if the knocking sound occurs in all gears, or if it ceases....
try in the higher gears rolling, both under load, and unloaded...

or if you are co-ordinated enough..try using a mechanic's stethoscope to further investigate the 'odd' noise.

good luck!



oh and yes...it makes it alot easier to change the clutch(but not the bearing! cases must be split for bearing replacement)to have a clutch locking tool(hold bar like IBJim's) and the spanner for the clutch locknut...

It can be done other ways, but it will be SO MUCH simpler using the factory tools, the IBJim style tool, or something else rigged to provide the same function..

And you must replace the clutch basket locknut after EACH clutch operation...It is a 'staked' nut, and every Honda I've worked on requires replacement of that nut.



Larry31-Thanks for the great information, again and again. When I get the front page re-organized, you'll have proper recognition.
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Old 08-06-2011, 02:30 AM   #4378
SaDoW
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About fuses .....

the NX has only one 20A fuse right?

In my bike i saw that this fuse has been changed with a 15A fuse ...

also 2 friend of mine bought a AX1 and a NX and the 20A fuse in both of them has been replaced with a 15A fuse....


Whats the deal????? is it ok to put a 15A fuse or should i change it to 20A fuse?

and why someone do a ghange like this? Are there problems that my occure???
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Old 08-06-2011, 06:13 AM   #4379
larry31
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Relay Wiring

In my previous post regarding wiring for a GPS or other devise, the diagram omitted using a relay.

This is a diagram that came with my horns. The relay contacts shown are similar to relays I’ve seen in local auto parts stores around here. Thought I’d post it if anyone can use it.



ValveCrusher: Thanks for the nod!
I've learned a lot from others here. Appreciate all that try to help. Guess that’s what it’s all about.
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Old 08-06-2011, 03:39 PM   #4380
twcman306
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Hey guys, I am new here and new to the dual sport world. I just bought a 88 NX 250 and have been having some problems. When I brought it home, the CDI immediately went bad. That was annoying....paid 270. Alright the bike is good to go hopefully right....wrong! I was at 7/11 and go out, hop on and try to start it. Turn the key and no power. Eventually get the idea to bump start it. Finally get home and look at the problem further. I put a meter on the battery, and it has plenty of power. When I turn the key on all voltage drops.... Now its not the generator because it runs with no power from the battery.

Now what could be causing this? Bad ground>???

thanks guys
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