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Old 08-13-2011, 12:11 AM   #76
tmotten
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I may have missed it. Why aren't you going straight onto the bondo?

Still not clear on the need for the box.
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Old 08-13-2011, 08:47 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by tmotten View Post
I may have missed it. Why aren't you going straight onto the bondo?

Still not clear on the need for the box.
You can go straight from the Bondo'd part , I just find it is quicker and easier to cover a roughly sanded, Bondo'd part with epoxy. There is much less time spent sanding

Surrounding the plug with the box makes layup easier later, especially if vacuum bagging
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:05 AM   #78
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Sources???

I need a better source for CF cloth and West epoxy. I bought a few yards of cloth from eBay, and that is hit or miss. I've bought epoxy from www.carbon-fiber.us, but they are a very small shop and don't convey much about their custom epoxy mix. There are no local sources that I'm aware of. Anyone have a good mail order source?
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Old 08-19-2011, 10:20 AM   #79
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I need a better source for CF cloth and West epoxy. I bought a few yards of cloth from eBay, and that is hit or miss. I've bought epoxy from www.carbon-fiber.us, but they are a very small shop and don't convey much about their custom epoxy mix. There are no local sources that I'm aware of. Anyone have a good mail order source?
I mostly use Jamestown distributing - they often run free shipping specials as well.
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:40 PM   #80
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Good stuff Hick.

I too have taken a liking to composites. My latest project is a fiberglass camper on my Samurai. It's a ridiculous amount of work, but it's coming along.........slowly.




I have been following your work in expeditionportal, so cool, I am about ready to do that to my CJ8

Saludos
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Old 08-24-2011, 12:38 PM   #81
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Would kevlar fabric work as a seat cover? Would it stand up to the sun
Not for long. UV tears up Kevlar. It needs a UV blocker.
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Old 08-27-2011, 02:51 PM   #82
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CF Strat Pickguard

I took a few weeks away from making CF heat shields and made this. I really, really like it. It's a little SRV and a little space age all at the same time:


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Old 09-19-2011, 03:54 PM   #83
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I recently had the opportunity to buy a rally fairing for not to much money and went for it. Got annoyed with the lack of symmetry of mine, although I do enjoy the minimalist naked look of it so I may finish it later once the bike is on the road.


I like this better I think.


So now the plan is to make a quick copy in glass of it to make some adjustments to and make a mould of it. I'm a bit worried about the release of the original part as I've got no room for failure. I prefer to be able to sell it, so I won't even finish the original as there are some issues with the finish. But I guess you get what you pay for.

So I'm thinking of covering the fairing panel below with 1 or 2 layers of 5.4oz glass and epoxy, not worrying about release angles, let it cure a day and peel it off. I'm thinking it should be flexible enough to pull off. I'll then reinforce it from the inside and use it as a prototype and mould of it.

Dunno what to do with that vent. It looks good from the side, but jeez it's set back deep. Half thinking of filling it in half an inch deep so it looks like it's there, but it's not. Dunno, it's a tricky piece.


This is looking from the bottom up. The idea is to lift up the edge on the right which is uniform in alignment along the whole edge and pull the prototype from the original. I won't be making the left hand edge as long. Probably half.


My main concern is what to use for a barrier. Had some issues in the past releasing and tried a few different things. Wax, PVA, but by far the easier has been grease oddly. Sure, you don't get the finish, but it works good as a barrier making it easy to pull it off. The difficulty with that is cleaning it all off good enough for the reinforcement glass to adhere properly.

Anyway, was wondering about wax again, and the reason for buffing it off. Wouldn't leaving it on when it goes all white provide a better barrier?
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Old 09-19-2011, 03:56 PM   #84
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Also, is there a reasonable way of not going through all those consumables? Particularly with waiting for each layer to go tacky which really helps with negating the need for post-cure edge trimming cause I can trim it pre-wetout, I go through a roller with each layer. Seems so wasteful, but a firm roller with cured resin in it is no good either, and going through heaps of acetone isn't great either. Can't really clean the roller that much anyway.

Just wondering.
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Old 09-19-2011, 04:13 PM   #85
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Ah symmerty . . . I can so relate. Looks good, I'd go with wax, but my experience is a lot less than yours.

I like the minimalist look too, shame your effort didn't give you the result you were after.

I'll be interested once you have finished what your experience with the airflow with this fairing is, beyond that I watch with interest.
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Old 09-19-2011, 05:17 PM   #86
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Taco.... While getting the epoxy.....ask the supplier what they recommend for release agent...... I use pva that my alchemist use and sell for his stuff..... Most likely that would work with all epoxys.... But better ask.... the wax`s ONLY purpose is to create a barrier for the pva to release from the piece moulded..... Not the print. If you don't use the wax.....then the pva might take a little more time to clean off. I do not use wax ......well only in rare occasions..... Not a necessity. As far as the angles..... You might get away with one layer of 6`ish oz.....on a sharp bend.... but as you lay down more layers at a time...( wet) it tend to pull more.... ad the shift potential during cure.....and umm.... bring beer or some other anesthetic.....You`l need it......... for starting......


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Old 09-26-2011, 03:32 AM   #87
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Cheers erling. So why isn't it more common to wait till the tacky state for all layers?

I've managed to cover the plug with pva with a foam brush which was actually much easier than spraying.

Anyway, somehow I was lead to believe by my surfer mate that one layer should suffice for keeping its shape but sadly not the case. So I'll add another layer on another tacky coat as it spreads our really nice on a tacky surface.



I measured the plug's thickness and it's exactly the same as my proposed laminate at 1.5 mm but I'm not sure what's in it though, other than the inside layer which is 5.4 oz. The whole thing is glass. So my question is, do you get more strength out of more lighter layers or less heavier layers?

tmotten screwed with this post 09-26-2011 at 03:58 AM
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:03 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by tmotten View Post
Cheers erling. So why isn't it more common to wait till the tacky state for all layers?

I've managed to cover the plug with pva with a foam brush which was actually much easier than spraying.

Anyway, somehow I was lead to believe by my surfer mate that one layer should suffice for keeping its shape but sadly not the case. So I'll add another layer on another tacky coat as it spreads our really nice on a tacky surface.

I measured the plug's thickness and it's exactly the same as my proposed laminate at 1.5 mm but I'm not sure what's in it though, other than the inside layer which is 5.4 oz. The whole thing is glass. So my question is, do you get more strength out of more lighter layers or less heavier layers?
I'll start. How much for some copies?
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:53 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by tmotten View Post
Cheers erling. So why isn't it more common to wait till the tacky state for all layers?

I've managed to cover the plug with pva with a foam brush which was actually much easier than spraying.

Anyway, somehow I was lead to believe by my surfer mate that one layer should suffice for keeping its shape but sadly not the case. So I'll add another layer on another tacky coat as it spreads our really nice on a tacky surface.



I measured the plug's thickness and it's exactly the same as my proposed laminate at 1.5 mm but I'm not sure what's in it though, other than the inside layer which is 5.4 oz. The whole thing is glass. So my question is, do you get more strength out of more lighter layers or less heavier layers?
Main two reasons..... One....and the most important..... You don`t get as strong of a matrix with the tack.... due to the inevitability of some/lot`s of air replacing resin in the layup = strong but not as strong..... But still pleanty strong for most applications.....
Two..... Time... Takes more time and makes for a pricy `er piece....... Most people won`t pay for the norm labor.... and since Erlings tack method adds even more time.... you`ve have to charge even more.... Most pieces that I make.... the strength is more than enough..... But lost of people think that the more resin they plow in there... the stronger.... But it`s actually quite the opposite...... How ever.... it is a quite useful tool to bypass the dreaded vacuum system setup.....Don`t meen to step on anybody's toes here...... But many compositours.... Forgets to look/approach this with a beginners view......


Erling
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:50 PM   #90
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Fair enough. I've decided to go with a female mould for this fairing. Will need to cut some of the inside panel for access though, but that's there for aesthetics only anyway. This will make it easier to layup wet and produce a heaps better finish with no worries about degassing.

What's your opinion on more layers with lighter fabrics vs less with heavier fabrics?
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