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Old 10-07-2011, 08:02 PM   #2221
Deseret Rider
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Running rich at idle

Let's talk about this-----and invite others to join ----I have something to learn here too. '

I have always believed that the mixture at Idle is pretty much controlled by your pilot jet----the main jet, needle and needle jet are not yet involved because the throttle is closed----right? So if you are running rich at idle I would think you would select a smaller pilot jet? What number pilot are you running?
Then---as you open the throttle and come off idle ----up to about 3/4 throttle-----the mixture is determined by the needle jet and the position of the needle within it (assuming here that the main jet is sufficiently large so as not to impede gas flow). The transition off the pilot mixture as you first open the throttle is also affected by the throttle cutaway----but this transition is fairly narrow and probably not going to enter into this discussion.

What is your target mixture?----15:1 ?

I'm not grasping the hot start issue though-----and am wondering if there isn't more involved there than simple mixture ratio?
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:16 PM   #2222
Yardstick
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This might help clear things up a bit:



From dealing with EFI systems and data-logging, you almost always have a rich condition at idle. You will also naturally have a rich condition during acceleration since you have to pump more fuel in to make the engine accelerate! It's only during steady-state cruise that you should see something like 14.7:1 (stoichiometry) or maybe slightly leaner if you're going for increased fuel economy or have EGR available.
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:17 AM   #2223
whozaberg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deseret Rider View Post
Let's talk about this-----and invite others to join ----I have something to learn here too. '

I have always believed that the mixture at Idle is pretty much controlled by your pilot jet----the main jet, needle and needle jet are not yet involved because the throttle is closed----right? So if you are running rich at idle I would think you would select a smaller pilot jet? What number pilot are you running?
Then---as you open the throttle and come off idle ----up to about 3/4 throttle-----the mixture is determined by the needle jet and the position of the needle within it (assuming here that the main jet is sufficiently large so as not to impede gas flow). The transition off the pilot mixture as you first open the throttle is also affected by the throttle cutaway----but this transition is fairly narrow and probably not going to enter into this discussion.

What is your target mixture?----15:1 ?

I'm not grasping the hot start issue though-----and am wondering if there isn't more involved there than simple mixture ratio?
That's sort of correct about the pilot to main circuit transitions. But have you noticed if you drop a clip position on your needle it affects the pilot setting?

As i wrote before. Full throttle from 3500-9000 rpm results in a fairly clean air fuel reading. Around 12.5-13.2:1 A/F.

The problem is when cruising on light throttle or idling (Or riding tight single track) it is running at low 11:1 ratios.

This in-turn causes overheating and uses bucket loads of fuel. Plus when riding in 30+ degree heat 11:1 ratios are way too rich. Ever tried to start a hot engine with the choke on? Same thing.

Now the Yamahas have a hot start lever which allowed excess air to enter the fuel stream GREATLY aiding in hot start conditions. But since KTM's don't have this, mixtures at closed throttle (idle) would surely need to be in the high 13's at least.

I could keep dropping pilot jet sizes but as you mentioned the transition to main will start to get out of hand.

What I know for sure is a 600 hp Blown V8 under full load runs 11.8:1. Not a 530 idling/cruising.

Also there is a lot of bottom end and mid range left untapped due to these rich mixtures.
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:32 AM   #2224
whozaberg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yardstick View Post
This might help clear things up a bit:



From dealing with EFI systems and data-logging, you almost always have a rich condition at idle. You will also naturally have a rich condition during acceleration since you have to pump more fuel in to make the engine accelerate! It's only during steady-state cruise that you should see something like 14.7:1 (stoichiometry) or maybe slightly leaner if you're going for increased fuel economy or have EGR available.
I can understand rich conditions with EFI, but that maybe to account for accelerator pump delays and bogging.Carb pumps are instant due to being of a mechanical nature. I would be interested to see if there is a difference in injector pulse duration when cranking to start a hot engine as opposed to idling.
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Old 10-08-2011, 02:34 PM   #2225
bikepikespeak.com
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LED tail light

Has anyone used one of these on a current exc? Curious to know how the fit etc is...

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...FamilyId=25859
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Old 10-08-2011, 04:44 PM   #2226
c.vestal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikepikespeak.com View Post
Has anyone used one of these on a current exc? Curious to know how the fit etc is...

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...FamilyId=25859
+ it is cheap and works
- you have to screw into the fender
- no support on the fender and it flops

highly recommend the euro tail. expensive, LEDs are indestructible but it will be the last one you buy.
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Old 10-08-2011, 07:26 PM   #2227
Deseret Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c.vestal View Post
+ it is cheap and works
- you have to screw into the fender
- no support on the fender and it flops

highly recommend the euro tail. expensive, LEDs are indestructible but it will be the last one you buy.
Can you give us a link to the system you recommend----thanks.
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Old 10-08-2011, 08:29 PM   #2228
jesusgatos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deseret Rider View Post
Can you give us a link to the system you recommend----thanks.
It's the same rear taillight/license plate mount that came on all the 6 days edition XC-W's here in The States (might be a little easier for you to look-up).
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:58 AM   #2229
Hodakaguy
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Best tail light option out there IMHO, Looks like it's $90 with all the needed hardaware: http://www.ktm-parts.com/78014040044.html

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Old 10-09-2011, 11:07 AM   #2230
c.vestal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodakaguy View Post
Best tail light option out there IMHO, Looks like it's $90 with all the needed hardaware: http://www.ktm-parts.com/78014040044.html

Hodakaguy
that is it
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Old 10-09-2011, 02:24 PM   #2231
bikepikespeak.com
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Perfect. Thanks guys.
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:03 PM   #2232
Krazyjohnny
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I just installed the Sicass Racing tailight that looks very similar to the Tusk one shown. It works great and mates to the stock bolt locations. They are a little bit more than the Tusk.
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:07 PM   #2233
Krazyjohnny
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Engine oil

What is everyone running for oil in their 530s? This is my first KTM and I would like to know the tips and tricks to keep this 08' around for a while. I have done the initial fluids change since receipt of the bike and used the Motorex stuff as shown in the manual. I could not get the gear box screen out of the bottom of the case. The engine one was a chore, but did not have any stuff on it.
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:53 PM   #2234
Hodakaguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazyjohnny View Post
What is everyone running for oil in their 530s? This is my first KTM and I would like to know the tips and tricks to keep this 08' around for a while. I have done the initial fluids change since receipt of the bike and used the Motorex stuff as shown in the manual. I could not get the gear box screen out of the bottom of the case. The engine one was a chore, but did not have any stuff on it.
That's a loaded question. Religion, Politics and Oil discussions will get you in big trouble

Here's my 2 Cents. For years I've ran Mobile-1 15-50W for high performance engines (the bottle with the race flags on the bottom corner) in all my bikes. One of the bike mags did a oil shootout years ago where they sent a bunch of oils out for anaylsis, the Mobile-1 15-50W was one of a couple auto oils that they included in the shootout. The results showed it VERY similar to all the bike oils with extra anti-wear, corrosion additives etc.

Most of the guys I ride with have been running that oil as well with excellent results. I chose it because it was a proven oil, cheap ($23 per 5 quart container at WalMart), and available everywhere (I like oil I can easily get when on distance trips and don't like mixing brands). Any modern properly rated oil will be fine...you just don't read about oil related failures any more. Pick which ever oil gives you that warm fuzzy feeling inside and go with it

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Old 10-09-2011, 06:54 PM   #2235
FlyingDutchman
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Fresh Oil is the Best

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazyjohnny View Post
What is everyone running for oil in their 530s? This is my first KTM and I would like to know the tips and tricks to keep this 08' around for a while. I have done the initial fluids change since receipt of the bike and used the Motorex stuff as shown in the manual. I could not get the gear box screen out of the bottom of the case. The engine one was a chore, but did not have any stuff on it.
No religion or politics involved. Change your oil often, every ride and measure it. Your concern shouldn't be oil breakdown--it's the dirt & moisture that gets in that will cost you $. I agree Mobil 1 15-50 is the cheapest synthetic and any 10-40 oil will do for short 1 day rides. JASO MA spec'd oil or gear oil in the trans will do.


By the way 2, I finished the Corduroy Enduro on my second try, both aboard the 530. Only 1 of 2 530's entered that I know of. It's more than a dualsport. My riding has come a long way in 2 years since the KLR was replaced
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