Show us something that you MADE...

[ridewestKTM]

here's something I made (I didn't design tho) I made some improvemets however.

[Bruincounselor]

Originally Posted by ridewestKTM

here's something I made (I didn't design tho) I made some improvemets however.

Improved Red X

What do I win?

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by Mr. Vintage

Idler gear bushing:

Nice lathe table!

About chucking that gear, if the jaws aren't soft, or to save damage to soft jaws, lay some solid core solder between the part and the jaw. The solder will conform under the clamp pressure.

That trick works on mill vise jaws as well, or with with less than smooth-surfaced parts, a just-sawed surface for example. Can also be useful if the workpiece is flat/square only on the side facing the stationary jaw of the vice. In the last case, the solder can be used sort of like a shim.

[dorkpunch]

Cut up aluminum cans or very thin copper sheet work great for that too- and probably a lot more consistent with thickness so your part will still be centered.

[ag_streak]

Mr. Vintage, that is one damn fine job on the lathe table! Bravo!!

[Mr. Vintage]

Originally Posted by Poolside

Nice lathe table!

About chucking that gear, if the jaws aren't soft, or to save damage to soft jaws, lay some solid core solder between the part and the jaw....

Originally Posted by dorkpunch

Cut up aluminum cans or very thin copper sheet work great for that too- and probably a lot more consistent with thickness so your part will still be centered.

Thank you both - very good info! This is the kind of knowledge I lack. I even tried to find someplace local to take some machining classes, but the schools here are better suited to getting a PHD than anything... well, useful.

Originally Posted by ag_streak

Mr. Vintage, that is one damn fine job on the lathe table! Bravo!!

Thank you for the compliment!

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by dorkpunch

Cut up aluminum cans or very thin copper sheet work great for that too- and probably a lot more consistent with thickness so your part will still be centered.

Nice! Definitely the sheet material would work better in a multi-jaw chuck. Where gap-filling is less the issue, and centering is a primary objective.

[dorkpunch]

y'all are welcome. Glad the two years I invested studying manufacturing engineering were useful to SOMEBODY...

[SingleTrackJeff]

Looking for help on a project

I have a fire pit I need a burner for I have found them on line for about 200 bucks but being cheep I would rather spend the real money on motorcycle stuff.
I need to make the burner ring to be covered with the fire glass we already have about an inch or so of it.
My thoughts are to make a use 3/4" soft copper tubing to make the circle and sweet ridge copper to adapt to the propane line.
Questions: Will the copper survive under the glass from the heat as I think the flame will be on top of the glass.
Do I need to have any air coming into the line before the burner or will it get enough air in the glass.

Thanks for the help

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff

I have a fire pit I need a burner for I have found them on line for about 200 bucks but being cheep I would rather spend the real money on motorcycle stuff.

Do I need to have any air coming into the line before the burner or will it get enough air in the glass.

A bbq-style gas/air venturi burner won't provide much flame height.

Drill some 1/8" holes in a square (4-90° fittings), or hexagon (8-45° fittings), or a big 'H' (2-tees and 4-caps), made from the right length galvanized pipe nipples. You'll have to fit a tee in there somewhere for the gas supply. Experiment, the pipe is cheap enough at the hardware store. The holes do not need to be directly on top of the pipe, they can be at 10 and 2 o'clock if you like.

If the regulator doesn't have enough flow, see if you can adjust the pressure. The adjustment might be under a swaged metal or plastic cap that needs to be drilled out. Like the idle air screw on an emissions carb.

I'm thinking that if the fire pit is enclosed with glass then it may have combustion air intake on the bottom, or low around the perimeter. Get some stone fire logs and you should be good to go.

Be sure you can get to all the holes on the pipe for lighting. The flame will not spread like it does on a burner.

[HamboneSlim]

Originally Posted by Mr. Vintage

...an old Atlas/Craftsman 12x36 lathe...
...

Where's the leadscrew?

Nice job on the table! I just picked up an older (late '40's) 12x54 version of this lathe and need to build a base for it. I took the lathe apart to clean, inspect for wear, and repaint. Gonna try and get it back together today.
Yours looks like it is in really nice shape, aside from the missing leadscrew.

[Mr. Vintage]

It is on now, I just hadn't put it on yet in the picture. Someone had crashed the thing and I ended up making a new leadscrew bearing carrier for the back of the carriage. Still need some gears to make the power cross-feed work but at least I have power feed now.

I saw your lathe in the machine tool thread - basically the same deal as mine short of the color, no?

[woopwoop]

I made this for a recent local small town art competition



Sheet float glass, kiln fused with encased vitreous enamels. Surface detail carved via masking and sand blasting. Steel stand.



Just missed the prize

[SYDADVGS]

Very zen WW I like

[jesusgatos]

Originally Posted by woopwoop

I made this for a recent local small town art competition

super cool