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Old 11-22-2011, 07:08 PM   #106
Canuman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hektoglider View Post
any thoughts on this: the stock shifter breaks off more easily in a crash

the aftermarket shifter is more durable, and during a crash if it moves a lot further, the internals of the shift mechanism can be damaged. bent shifter fork ? stripped splines or other internal damage.

The stock, weak shifter acts as a dispensable component, saving more complex and expensive parts from damage.

I am hesitant to install such a durable shifter. I would rather break my stock one occasionally
Actually, I have no problem with the stock shifter as such, it's just that the Moose is said to be a bit longer. I have some aftermarket pegs I really like, but they make slipping my big dogs underneath the shift peg a pain. IMHO, changing the pegs makes an enormous difference in control and security.
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:15 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by Smithy View Post
Been trying to figure out where to install my aux lights, and looking through the mod and pic threads, don't see hardly anyone doing this to their KLR.

1. Is there a good reason people don't mount extra lighting on this bike?

2. Is there a preferred or more suitable way to do it, if I'm set on it?


Just looking for inspiration, my current thinking is to bolt on at the bottom edges of the fairing sides, but don't want to be too close to the turn signals. Thought about mounting on forward side plastics, too... so many options, and no examples out there to actually look at before buying hardware and experimenting.
There's not a lot of spare wattage available, to be sure. I'd rather use mine for heated gear this time of year, and even then, it's easy to flatten the battery. If you mount aux lights, I'd suggest LEDs mounted to someplace hard, like the fork legs. There are some good brackets available for this application. Also, swapping in an HID headlight frees up some watts. They give great light (mine came with my Britannia fairing), but cut consumption by about 20 watts over stock.
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Canuman screwed with this post 11-22-2011 at 07:51 PM
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:08 PM   #108
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I have reduced all my wattage use by either led or HID lighting and I mean everything. I also have LED spots mounted on my engine guard down low to make that majical triangle of light as large as posible for on coming vehicles a bigger visual object to see. I can run all of this and my heated vest on high and grips on low...but I'm at max voltage use according to my voltmeter, needle like. A 2" round automotive unit mounted into my Britannia Composite dash. I find that with such a gauge I can see exactly what is being used at any time.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:17 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithy View Post
Been trying to figure out where to install my aux lights, and looking through the mod and pic threads, don't see hardly anyone doing this to their KLR.

1. Is there a good reason people don't mount extra lighting on this bike?

2. Is there a preferred or more suitable way to do it, if I'm set on it?


Just looking for inspiration, my current thinking is to bolt on at the bottom edges of the fairing sides, but don't want to be too close to the turn signals. Thought about mounting on forward side plastics, too... so many options, and no examples out there to actually look at before buying hardware and experimenting.
Friend of mine put a small spot on each of his barkbusters.
Looked cool, worked well, and could be aimed by turning the bars...
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:20 PM   #110
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Originally Posted by Canuman View Post
I know it's a false because the neutral light doesn't display.
No, you only know that your neutral light doesn't come on.

I wouldn't define that as a false neutral.
That is where neutral is in the KLR gearbox.

A false neutral is where one should not exist, i.e. between 3rd and 4th gear.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:36 PM   #111
Canuman
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Originally Posted by CA Stu View Post
No, you only know that your neutral light doesn't come on.

I wouldn't define that as a false neutral.
That is where neutral is in the KLR gearbox.

A false neutral is where one should not exist, i.e. between 3rd and 4th gear.
I really don't want to get in a pissing contest over it -- I put many miles on an old BMW that could find a place to rest between just about every gear. Let's call it an "undesired incursion into neutral," then. I'm pretty sure it's not my technique, as it doesn't happen on my other bikes, even on the dry-plate machine. Strangely enough, a real neutral can be difficult to obtain under the exact same conditions.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:46 PM   #112
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MX boots and stock shift lever

Hey guys I've been running into issues where I can't wear MX boots on my KLR. The shift lever seems super low and close to the peg in comparison to my WR450. Haven't tried adjusting the stock lever yet, but wanted input from anyone also running into this issue. Can the stock lever be adjusted up far enough that a MX boot with a regular size toe box be able to shift easily? Or am I better off finding a different shift lever? If so which one? And if I can make the adjustment how easy is it? It looks different from my other bikes...
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:41 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuman View Post
There's not a lot of spare wattage available, to be sure. I'd rather use mine for heated gear this time of year, and even then, it's easy to flatten the battery. If you mount aux lights, I'd suggest LEDs mounted to someplace hard, like the fork legs. There are some good brackets available for this application. Also, swapping in an HID headlight frees up some watts. They give great light (mine came with my Britannia fairing), but cut consumption by about 20 watts over stock.
I am looking at doing this as well, what brackets and where can they be obtained?
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:09 PM   #114
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Has anybody else had to deal with an exhaust header pipe splitting at the seam?
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:21 AM   #115
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Has anybody else had to deal with an exhaust header pipe splitting at the seam?

No I have not on my '98 but just got a new XCR Vance & Hines exhaust and have decided to order the header pipe before I do have issues with mine. Your question has definitely confirmed my decision. Thanks

I would like to say "thanks" to Willy's for starting this thread. It's gaining momentum fast and I'm sure before spring we will see this as one of the bigger ADV threads. It's great to have "our" community within the community. Thank you
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:35 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MingRidesBikes View Post
Hey guys I've been running into issues where I can't wear MX boots on my KLR. The shift lever seems super low and close to the peg in comparison to my WR450. Haven't tried adjusting the stock lever yet, but wanted input from anyone also running into this issue. Can the stock lever be adjusted up far enough that a MX boot with a regular size toe box be able to shift easily? Or am I better off finding a different shift lever? If so which one? And if I can make the adjustment how easy is it? It looks different from my other bikes...
I installed a Moose 1/2" longer shifter, and when I installed it angled it up slightly from the stock position. Works well for shifting in a standing position and with MX boots. I carry the stock as a spare just because I am paranoid about breaking it in the middle of nowhere. I also have Moose 1/2 offset Onyx Hybrid pegs which are great for standing and give some additional room for bulky boots. I only wear a size 10 boot and it was much better, can only imagine it would be better for a larger size foot as well.

As far as adjusting the angle, just loosen the bolt, pull the lever off and put it back on at the different angle. You will need to match up the splines, but that is the only slightly annoying part of the process.

I guess I should add that some folks have just learned to shift with the side of their boot.
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:53 AM   #117
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Originally Posted by MotoBoss View Post
No I have not on my '98 but just got a new XCR Vance & Hines exhaust and have decided to order the header pipe before I do have issues with mine. Your question has definitely confirmed my decision. Thanks

I would like to say "thanks" to Willy's for starting this thread. It's gaining momentum fast and I'm sure before spring we will see this as one of the bigger ADV threads. It's great to have "our" community within the community. Thank you

My pleasure.....I too always wanted a KLR specific thread and hated always searching through many other non KLR threads just in hopes to read something that pertained to us.

I think as you say, this thread will grow fast. I just hope we can keep it from becoming an arguementative thread and more of an informative thread....so far after our rocky start, it has been a joy to read and follow along with.

Great posts gentlemen, and ladies, ......keep it growing strong!!!
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:16 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MingRidesBikes View Post
Hey guys I've been running into issues where I can't wear MX boots on my KLR. The shift lever seems super low and close to the peg in comparison to my WR450. Haven't tried adjusting the stock lever yet, but wanted input from anyone also running into this issue. Can the stock lever be adjusted up far enough that a MX boot with a regular size toe box be able to shift easily? Or am I better off finding a different shift lever? If so which one? And if I can make the adjustment how easy is it? It looks different from my other bikes...
I tried moving the shift lever up, but could not get it just right. I ended up getting some lowering brackets. The have bottomed out a few times though.
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:32 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabrito View Post
I tried moving the shift lever up, but could not get it just right. I ended up getting some lowering brackets. The have bottomed out a few times though.

You gotta RH shift KLR? British model?

The lowering brackets make a nice differenct.
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:52 AM   #120
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I have the same brackets, they are great!
They allow your legs to drop that much lower to be moe comfortable on long rides and also allow larger boots to get under the shifter also. Now I don't off road much at all, so getting hung up isn't a real concern for me. But some do complain and rightly so about this. The brackets are angled back a bit but if you do catch them hard enough on lets say a solid rock, you could tear away your footpegs from your frame! That would be my only real concern when using these brackets when doing the off road thang!....Hope this helps....
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