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Old 11-23-2011, 06:56 AM   #121
Canuman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ausfahrt View Post
I am looking at doing this as well, what brackets and where can they be obtained?
The system I have experience with is the Denalis from Twisted Throttle. Twisted Throttle has no mercy on price, but offers a very complete and tidy kit with a variety of mounting solutions. They are melt-your-face-off bright, and come with a selection of lenses to tailor the beams to your taste, including an EU compliant beam pattern.

I've also looked at the lights from Trailtech, http://www.trailtech.net/lights.html. They offer a number of lights and mounting solutions. I particularly like that their LED features a three-level intensity button on the housing. They are a bit friendlier than the Denalis price wise. If you search under parts, Trailtech has a quite number of frame mounts that are well-priced. Their "lick-em-and stick-em" glue plate mounts look versatile. I'd want the mounting surface to be sparkling clean, though.

Both are 6000 - 6300 degree Kelvin color temperature, which is a useful range. Lights that are of a higher color temp tend to be too blue, and aren't as good. Intense blue light tends to piss off oncoming motorists, in my experience. Sunlight is about 5500K, as a reference.

Rigid Industries www.http://rigidindustries.com makes many LED styles, along with a great deal of mounting hardware. I have no experience with their products on bikes, but have seen them on other off-road vehicles, and they appear to be solidly built and up to the task. The LED clamp system, here: http://www.rigidindustries.com/product-p/rgdlldclmp.htm features many clamp sizes.

Adventure Motorcycle Parts has some bar mounts in 7/8", 1 1/8", and 1 1/4" that look well-made. http://www.adventuremotorcycleparts.com

IMHO, the cheapo WalMart/Ebay/Discount Auto Outfitters LEDs aren't worth the time and hassle to install. It's not simply an issue of making light, but projecting it in a useful manner. If I'm going through the expense and effort, I want something that works as it should and more importantly won't fail when I really need it.
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Canuman screwed with this post 11-23-2011 at 10:24 AM
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:21 AM   #122
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Originally Posted by Canuman View Post
A demonic attempt to begin an oil debate. Burn the heretic!

As usual!....

Lets keep the BS posts to ourselves and keep this great thread moving forward, not start again ....can we???????
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:57 AM   #123
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We're trying to get this thread to stay on track.. you want to talk about oil, find one of a thousand oil threads... or start another one.. and let's keep this one about KLR specific issues. The b.s. has been punted.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:07 AM   #124
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Oil filter cover leak...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget Boy View Post
We're trying to get this thread to stay on track...

Just to try to get the train back on the rails...


1. What are you guys doin' (if anything) to keep the oil filter cover from weeping?

2. Where did y'all purchase your service manual?



As far as the oil filter cover, I am thinking of replacing the cover o-ring, and applying a coat of grease to it, during my next oil change. I'm not totally sold on the "Grainger" oversized o-ring (I would rather have some weepage than a cracked case cover.)

In regard to the service manual, I want a KHI OEM manual, but would like to save as much scratch as possible.



What say y'all?...


Thanks in advance.


.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:12 AM   #125
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Originally Posted by willys View Post
I have the same brackets, they are great!
They allow your legs to drop that much lower to be moe comfortable on long rides and also allow larger boots to get under the shifter also. Now I don't off road much at all, so getting hung up isn't a real concern for me. But some do complain and rightly so about this. The brackets are angled back a bit but if you do catch them hard enough on lets say a solid rock, you could tear away your footpegs from your frame! That would be my only real concern when using these brackets when doing the off road thang!....Hope this helps....
Where can these be obtained? Have a link?
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:54 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ View Post
Just to try to get the train back on the rails...


1. What are you guys doin' (if anything) to keep the oil filter cover from weeping?

2. Where did y'all purchase your service manual?



As far as the oil filter cover, I am thinking of replacing the cover o-ring, and applying a coat of grease to it, during my next oil change. I'm not totally sold on the "Grainger" oversized o-ring (I would rather have some weepage than a cracked case cover.)

In regard to the service manual, I want a KHI OEM manual, but would like to save as much scratch as possible.



What say y'all?...


Thanks in advance.


.
Kawi for the o-ring, and E-Bay for the manual. Should be able to find one for less than $30.
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:02 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Al View Post
Kawi for the o-ring, and E-Bay for the manual. Should be able to find one for less than $30.

Thank you, Al.


.
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:14 PM   #128
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Ricor?

There are some great deals on Ricor suspension right now.....anyone got the full setup on their KLR? As mentioned in a previous post, I already have done some more basic suspension upgrades, so I'm trying to figure out if another $800 is really going to transform the bike or if its just an incremental difference that will still leave me wishing I had a smaller bike offroad. Really trying to keep the garage with one bike in it!

Fork: Happy Trails brace, progressive springs with correct spacer length
Shock: Stock with Eagle Mike RL-2 links
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:36 PM   #129
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Gundy, it would help to know how heavy and tall you are. If all you want is to add spring rate. I went with the Top gun 7.4kg spring and it holds up my 2oolb arse and all my luggage etc and tows a single wheeled trailer. Now I do have a fully modded shock that was designed by a factory suspension guy. but that is just in respect to rebound and dampening etc not spring rate. I never get to use the shock for what it was built to now do. If you used the R-2 links to hopefully get a firmer ride, yes they work somewhat but a heavier spring will work better. This is the KLRista way of doing a second place shock build for about $100 instead of the $800 you are quoting.
Remember what the KLR was designed for, 165lb rider and I bet not desert running or serious off road riding....it is after all a dual sport, not an MX bike.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:54 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by Canuman View Post
I really don't want to get in a pissing contest over it -- I put many miles on an old BMW that could find a place to rest between just about every gear. Let's call it an "undesired incursion into neutral," then. I'm pretty sure it's not my technique, as it doesn't happen on my other bikes, even on the dry-plate machine. Strangely enough, a real neutral can be difficult to obtain under the exact same conditions.


Your "old BMW" experience has absolutely nothing to do with your KLR. Nothing.

Replace your crappy OEM shifter and be done with it.

Did you ever answer the question about whether or not your bike has an aftermarket skid plate?

I have given you the solution three times now.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:01 PM   #131
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Ditto ..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Al View Post
Kawi for the o-ring, and E-Bay for the manual. Should be able to find one for less than $30.
Two thumbs up ! Got my factory manual on eBay and get the o- ring when I get the filter...No weep issues at all on my 2011..

Mark
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:02 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by MingRidesBikes View Post
Hey guys I've been running into issues where I can't wear MX boots on my KLR. The shift lever seems super low and close to the peg in comparison to my WR450. Haven't tried adjusting the stock lever yet, but wanted input from anyone also running into this issue. Can the stock lever be adjusted up far enough that a MX boot with a regular size toe box be able to shift easily? Or am I better off finding a different shift lever? If so which one? And if I can make the adjustment how easy is it? It looks different from my other bikes...


Comparison between IMS and stock shift lever... The IMS is a better alternative.

Thanks
CA Stu

PS Maybe you just need to switch oil?
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:04 PM   #133
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Did you ever answer the question about whether or not your bike has an aftermarket skid plate?
Not yet. Just purchased the rad/res/skid combo from Happy Trails, but it hasn't arrived yet.

And I took your advice before it was offered. The Moose shifter is probably at the PO right now. If we didn't get douched with snow overnight, I would go get it and slap it on.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:08 PM   #134
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Well, for the riding I do where suspension really matters, I am 215 in gear + another 15 of tools, tubes etc.

The Rl-2s get the geometry to where it should be, but its still basically the stock suspension.

A little background....I sold my DRZ recently since the two bikes were so close in function for me. Most of the riding I did with the DRZ was rocky or sandy single and double track. Most of the trails were doable on a KLR, just at much slower speeds and a greater fear of getting squashed when it tipped over. No question the DRZ was a better bike offroad, but the reality is that almost every organized ride I participate in has a "big bike loop" or something of that nature that folks ride KLRs and bigger on. I am trying to figure out if the RICOR setup would improve the suspension enough to increase the pace/confidence through the rocks roots etc. or if really the bigger issue is that its a 450 lb top heavy bike. The money very well may be better spent on a dedicated trail bike, but maybe if the RICOR setup was that amazing it could save the cost/trouble of owning multiple bikes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willys View Post
Gundy, it would help to know how heavy and tall you are. If all you want is to add spring rate. I went with the Top gun 7.4kg spring and it holds up my 2oolb arse and all my luggage etc and tows a single wheeled trailer. Now I do have a fully modded shock that was designed by a factory suspension guy. but that is just in respect to rebound and dampening etc not spring rate. I never get to use the shock for what it was built to now do. If you used the R-2 links to hopefully get a firmer ride, yes they work somewhat but a heavier spring will work better. This is the KLRista way of doing a second place shock build for about $100 instead of the $800 you are quoting.
Remember what the KLR was designed for, 165lb rider and I bet not desert running or serious off road riding....it is after all a dual sport, not an MX bike.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:09 PM   #135
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Not yet. Just purchased the rad/res/skid combo from Happy Trails, but it hasn't arrived yet.


Just to give you my history w/KLRs, I bought my first one in 1998, promptly bolted on everything I could get my hands on..

I can almost guarantee you that any stupid mistake someone is going to make on a KLR, I have already made it.

Happy Trails makes great parts
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