KLR650 Only Thread......

[Aces 6]

Originally Posted by Ragin Rabbi

I want the plastic tank (anyone have one they want to dump?) and Wolfman side racks and the bags and I'll be done with the (lamely) justified "needs". Then I WANT a set of black wheels... My Poor Mans Rally Look would then be complete..

Don't know about used plastic tanks but Safari has a cool one for the KLR. Almost hoping for a non-injury crash as an excuse to get rid of the plastic and replace with a Safari tank.

http://justgastanks.com/p2292/KLR650...duct_info.html

[Aces 6]

Originally Posted by Canuman

You have excellent taste. Sounds like my set-up less the rims. Miles Hubert at Motofab in Bristol, VT could powder-coat your stock rims for pretty reasonable. He does great work. I don't think they would be nearly as durable as anodized, but if it's look you want. . .

He'll also set up your race bike.

Google him, I don't want to post his email in the open.

Anyone out there have tubeless rims on their KLR or know where to get a pair? Owned a couple of BMWs before going back to big K and got used to the plug and play way of repairing a flat.

[schaffer40]

Originally Posted by Aces 6

Anyone out there have tubeless rims on their KLR or know where to get a pair? Owned a couple of BMWs before going back to big K and got used to the plug and play way of repairing a flat.

You can try here:
http://www.woodyswheelworks.com/

or here:
http://www.buchananspokes.net/

[BigT]

Originally Posted by Aces 6

Anyone out there have tubeless rims on their KLR or know where to get a pair? Owned a couple of BMWs before going back to big K and got used to the plug and play way of repairing a flat.

I was wondering the other day if Woodys could make tubeless KLR specific wheels. It would be interesting to find out what it would cost.

Another option is this company. http://tubeliss.com/

I know they make the tubes in 21", but I'm not sure they've got a 17" tube.

[willys]

Some have used a aircraft grade epoxy to seal the spoke holes but I would have thought that in doing so would end all spoke adjustments and thus killing your rim if you accidentally warp it.

[XDragRacer]

Originally Posted by willys

Have you changed your counter sprocket? Either way to see? I have and that is what it changes it by roughly 500rpms.

Just me, or is there an ECHO in here?

Well, I'll follow suit:

At what ground speed? Ain't flat 500 rpm from "dc to daylight," is it?

Looks like one countersprocket tooth up or down would change engine rpm by about 1/15th the rpm of stock gearing at any given speed, to me . . .

Hard to imagine a countershaft tooth accounts for a constant 500 rpm change from idle to redline.

[willys]

At roughly 4500 it drops it by 500.....that is close to 60mph for me iirc. But I'm sure nobody thinks it's across the entire RPM band now do they?......We all want to know what our cruising RPM will be not what it is while putting around in traffic.....?

Hope this helps the 99.999% of you out there and that last portion of a percentage will still find fault with whatever I say!!???

[Kawidad]

Originally Posted by Ragin Rabbi

If this was for me, no. My (faulty?) logic went, These forks were meant to be slammed off road on a machine more capable then the KLR and the YZ isn't all that much lighter so maybe a heavier oil will work.

Td you it was faulty. For NOW the forks are great. If I were out west with a wider area to ride I'd have done it. The shop I am getting to do the seals are going to put in a larger spacer and heavier oil. The dive isn't too bad right now, better then stock. But one day...

Hey Rab,

Do you have any clearance issues with the forks at full lock in either direction? I'm scouting around for a fork upgrade, but it appears some of the bigger forks could have some clearance issues.

[Ragin Rabbi]

Originally Posted by Kawidad

Hey Rab,

Do you have any clearance issues with the forks at full lock in either direction? I'm scouting around for a fork upgrade, but it appears some of the bigger forks could have some clearance issues.

The only "issue" I have had is that there is no steal steering stop. The lower triple acts as the steering stop, and I am not sure if that is a good thing, or bad. I left the stock metal steering stop on at the bottom of the steering head (does that make sense?) and it put two small divots in the lower triple, by small I mean small.

You loose some steering sweep, like when pushing the bike around the driveway, but on the road you don't miss it. I believe some of this is due to the forks being longer, and the way that they mount they are more vertical then the stock forks. It speeds up the steering on the road, and slows it down at low speeds.

Once you get used to the planted feel, the quicker steering, and of course the stiffer front end it all really falls into place and you can't help but wonder why Kawi doesn't use the forks off of the KLX 450 and just do us all a favor.

I did the front and rear at the same time, so I can't really give any info on just the front with stock rear vs. stock front with rear replacement. Do them both (I followed the "Its better to beg for forgiveness..." approach) at the same time and be done with it.

I'll see about getting some pics up a little later, after class.

[Canuman]

Originally Posted by CA Stu

You do know that's where the real neutral is, right?

Seriously, check that your shift lever is tight on the shaft.

If it is the OEM one, consider replacing it with an IMS or Moose shifter.

The factory shift levers are prone to cracking at the weld, and any sloppiness / flex will prevent you from making a nice positive shift.

Well, mounted the Moose shifter up and took a test ride yesterday - the snow finally melted and it was near 50 degrees. I have to say, the Moose is beefier than stock and is a very nice piece of gear, but it did not solve the problem. At least I've eliminated one variable.

[Kawidad]

Originally Posted by Ragin Rabbi

The only "issue" I have had is that there is no steal steering stop. The lower triple acts as the steering stop, and I am not sure if that is a good thing, or bad. I left the stock metal steering stop on at the bottom of the steering head (does that make sense?) and it put two small divots in the lower triple, by small I mean small.

You loose some steering sweep, like when pushing the bike around the driveway, but on the road you don't miss it. I believe some of this is due to the forks being longer, and the way that they mount they are more vertical then the stock forks. It speeds up the steering on the road, and slows it down at low speeds.

Once you get used to the planted feel, the quicker steering, and of course the stiffer front end it all really falls into place and you can't help but wonder why Kawi doesn't use the forks off of the KLX 450 and just do us all a favor.

I did the front and rear at the same time, so I can't really give any info on just the front with stock rear vs. stock front with rear replacement. Do them both (I followed the "Its better to beg for forgiveness..." approach) at the same time and be done with it.

I'll see about getting some pics up a little later, after class.

Thanks pix would be nice.

First of all, could you tap the aluminum triple clamp and put a steel bolt in there to act as a steering stop like KTM does?

Secondly, the loss of turning radius is a concern for me. I sometimes ride in some tight stuff and the stock KLR has a somewhat limited turning radius that I would rather expand on than loose.

It's also interesting you mention the difference in the geometry of the triple clamps because the rake and trail of the front end can have a critical impact on the handling of the bike, for better or worse. By placing the forks in a more vertical position it should speed up the handling at all speeds and could make it unstable at higher speeds; for example, like on the interstate.

This is also a major concern for me, because of my usage of the bike. Hmmm.......

[XDragRacer]

Originally Posted by willys

At roughly 4500 it drops it by 500.....

By only 283 rpm, more accurately:

Stock gearing is 43/15, or 2.87. 43/16 would be 2.69. At stock 4500 rpm, rpm would be 2.69/2.87 X 4500 with a 16-tooth countersprocket, or 4217 rpm, dropping 283 rpm from stock.

Or I've made a colossal mathematical error.

Haven't run it through "Gearing Commander" ( http://www.gearingcommander.com/ ), but you get the idea.

[schaffer40]

Originally Posted by BigT

I was wondering the other day if Woodys could make tubeless KLR specific wheels. It would be interesting to find out what it would cost.

Another option is this company. http://tubeliss.com/

I know they make the tubes in 21", but I'm not sure they've got a 17" tube.

I emailed with them a few weeks ago and they don't have the 17" yet and they do not have a DOT rating for the product. They only recommend it for off road use. They are working on something DOT rated that is more DS focused that may be available next year.

[nakedwaterskier]

43/16 is great for the fwy...though you claim only 250ish rpm saving it sure seems like a huge difference when you are riding at 80+mph...that 250ish rpm savings with the inertia of a big heavy LINCOLN 460-like piston...it could save your engine if you are on the fwy for a couple of hours.

I am thinking of going to 42/15 or 41/15 so as not to kill dirt capability but to also cruise on the fwy

[nakedwaterskier]

i found the aftermarket shifters to be softer than the stock esp. with regards to splines...when I run my aftermarket shifter, I sand dn the contact points every once in a while to keep from stripping it.