the DR650 thread

[Sydney Rider]

Howdy all,

Kept putting off the NSU task because I wasn't sure that I would do it properly.....

So today, with 30,700klms on the clock, I decided it was time and I found that the screws were less than finger tight.

Better to be safe than sorry.

Tony

[JoeyBones]

Originally Posted by Sydney Rider

Howdy all,

Kept putting off the NSU task because I wasn't sure that I would do it properly.....

So today, with 30,700klms on the clock, I decided it was time and I found that the screws were less than finger tight.

Better to be safe than sorry.

Tony

So my DR now has about 86 miles on it. I just ordered the 14T front sprocket from Procycle, and while I was at it I added a clutch cover gasket to the shopping cart. I plan to get this done along with the break-in / 600 mile oil change.

[planemanx15]

Originally Posted by LucasLeader

It wasn't too much work except for getting the wheel assembly back in the swingarm. I guess the new rubbers made it a decent amount wider. I'm assuming they'll be compressed by the time I have the wheel off again.

I had the same problem getting my rear wheel back on after changing the Cush rubbers. Tool about 45 minutes and that spacer on the brake side kept popping out. I ended up using a pry bar to pull the swing arm out a little bit in order to get everything to fit.

[asrvivor]

Originally Posted by planemanx15

I had the same problem getting my rear wheel back on after changing the Cush rubbers. Tool about 45 minutes and that spacer on the brake side kept popping out. I ended up using a pry bar to pull the swing arm out a little bit in order to get everything to fit.

Ditto, new cush rubbers made it tuff to get the wheel back on. They did wear in though and the next tire change at about 2000 miles was nice and easy.

Sydney Rider • Today 02:06 AM Did my NSU - glad I did

Howdy all,

Kept putting off the NSU task because I wasn't sure that I would do it properly.....

So today, with 30,700klms on the clock, I decided it was time and I found that the screws were less than finger tight.

Better to be safe than sorry.

Tony

Did you happen to take any pics of that as you were doing it? Thanks

[ER70S-2]

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15

[asrvivor]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15

Perfect. Gonna get it done tonight. Thanks John

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by LucasLeader

I replaced the seal on the sprocket carrier and the cush drive rubbers, but nothing else. The wheel bearings still seem smooth and tight, the rear sprocket and chain look okay, and I only have about 500 miles on the new 14t front sprocket. To get the bearing out I pried the seal off with a screwdriver, then laid the sprocket on some pieces of 2x4 and hit the bearing out with a hammer and brass punch. To put the new one in I used the old bearing to drive the new one in, and then was able to drive the old one out with the brass punch. Then just pushed the new seal in and used a small piece of wood to tap it in. Oh, and cleaned and greased everything while it was apart. It wasn't too much work except for getting the wheel assembly back in the swingarm. I guess the new rubbers made it a decent amount wider. I'm assuming they'll be compressed by the time I have the wheel off again.

Thanks for the tutorial!
I've replaced my Cush rubbers twice. Both times it makes getting the Hubb and sprocket into the wheel tougher ... which makes getting wheel on harder. I used a mallet to "persuade" it in a bit so it would "seat" all the way. Over time it will resist less and seat better.

But I've found the Cush Drive rubbers seem to wear out in 15 to 20K miles.

Thanks again!

[kobukan]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

. . . I've replaced my Cush rubbers twice. Both times it makes getting the Hubb and sprocket into the wheel tougher ... which makes getting wheel on harder. I used a mallet to "persuade" it in a bit so it would "seat" all the way. Over time it will resist less and seat better . . .

It helps to spray the rubbers with something like Aerospace 303 to make everything slide together easier.

[gumbometer]

Ahoy, everyone,

Last time I changed the oil on my 2002 DR650 with ~8000 miles, I installed a magnetic oil drain plug. Today, I found a small, cylindrical steel pin stuck to the magnet. I know there's a spring and some kind of pin behind the NSU (which I haven't messed with so far), but I'm not sure that this thing I found is from behind the NSU. It is 8mm long, and 5mm in diameter (measuring with a ruler).

I dug around in my oil drain pan and found a small lock washer, too. Its inner diameter appears to be 7mm. This could have come from any of 4 or 5 other vehicles over the course of time, but I thought I'd mention it in case anyone recognizes it as coming from inside a DR.

The neutral light has been working fine.

I searched around and couldn't find the photos I know I've seen of what others have found stuck to their magnetic drain plugs. An exploded diagram I found (http://www.imagessite.com/OEM_Images...6DR650SE18.gif) seems to show that the NSU pin is pointed to help it engage the spring (the one I found is not pointed or tapered). Some other parts on the diagram (#s 10 and 22) look a little bit like what I found. Can anyone tell me for sure where this little pin came from?

Thanks!

[Stringer99]

looks like the cam pin or a dislodged pin from a previous magnetic plug.

[gumbometer]

Thanks for the reply.

I'm pretty sure the previous plug was the stock, non-magnetic one. Also, this pin isn't magnetic. If it's a cam pin, does that mean I'm looking at tearing down the top end?

The bike has been running fine. Could it run if a cam pin came out? I don't have a good idea of what everything is in the deep innards, never having had to deal with a rebuild or any really major overhauling.

[ER70S-2]

Thanks to Krusty's DR650 Index, Topic #13:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32

I found this pic of the NSU screws, pin and spring here, post 11:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=592472

I don't recognize either of the pieces in your photo.

[Midnightventure]

Originally Posted by shu

On my bike: Yes.


The only trouble I have with the 'Suzuki method' is that when I check the chain it hits the bottom of the swingarm before it runs out slack. That makes it tough to really measure how much slack it has, there's some guess work involved. Maybe someone here has got this one figured out?

........shu

Loosely hitting the swing arm is what I have been shooting for and it seems to be working pretty good. Chain and sprockets seem to be holding up pretty good. In my younger days I have ruined a new chain pretty quick tightening it up to much.

[rglee]

Help! My DR ran perfect with a Supertrapp pipe, K&N, air box side removed and Dynojet kit. Then like someone on the DR forum says, fix it until it's broke, I put a Procycle kit in it, did the CO & UT part of the TAT - it ran a little rough occasionally but overall did great - especially considering the elevation changes. I richened it back up for the low elevation here in Fayetteville, NC, HOWEVER, it was missing or hesitating at around 60 to 70 mph. But it wouldn't start until I'd run at least 15 miles and the DR was completely warmed up. I've tried changing jet sizes, needle position and the slow speed mixture position, then slowly changed everything back to the way it was before I went to the Procycle jet kit. The problem is very consistent - doesn't do it until completely warm, in the lower mid range of throttle opening, and no adjustments seem to make any difference. While it's missing/hesitating I can roll on the throttle and it accelerates perfectly. Has anyone had this particular problem??? Any ideas??? Thanks!

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by Ken E Ahnung

Ahoy, everyone,

Last time I changed the oil on my 2002 DR650 with ~8000 miles, I installed a magnetic oil drain plug. Today, I found a small, cylindrical steel pin stuck to the magnet. I know there's a spring and some kind of pin behind the NSU (which I haven't messed with so far), but I'm not sure that this thing I found is from behind the NSU. It is 8mm long, and 5mm in diameter (measuring with a ruler).

I dug around in my oil drain pan and found a small lock washer, too. Its inner diameter appears to be 7mm. This could have come from any of 4 or 5 other vehicles over the course of time, but I thought I'd mention it in case anyone recognizes it as coming from inside a DR.

The neutral light has been working fine.

I searched around and couldn't find the photos I know I've seen of what others have found stuck to their magnetic drain plugs. An exploded diagram I found (http://www.imagessite.com/OEM_Images...6DR650SE18.gif) seems to show that the NSU pin is pointed to help it engage the spring (the one I found is not pointed or tapered). Some other parts on the diagram (#s 10 and 22) look a little bit like what I found. Can anyone tell me for sure where this little pin came from?

Thanks!

I have no idea what those parts could be ... just be thankful you found them before they got stuck in a trans gear or something

One thought I had was that the pin might be a locator pin on the clutch cover case. Has your clutch side case been off before? When I took mine off ... a pin fell off from somewhere ...??? (long time ago) I think it was a locator pin, but not sure, but somewhere there is a pin that can fall off. Maybe yours was dislodged and fell inside?

Good luck with the diagnosis. More experienced DR mechanics who've been inside may have some better ideas.