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Old 12-29-2011, 05:43 PM   #46
elgato gordo
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Aircraft spruce and Wicks Aircraft have good selections of tubing in both alum and steel.
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:34 PM   #47
sailah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
Haha, I think you just want an excuse to use that lathe. I may take you up on the offer if I can't figure something out over the weekend. I'm trying to get the bike rideable by the end of the weekend.
I do love using my lathe, got me. Won't be by this weekend still in florida. Your machinist could do it in five minutesprobably has the material on hand too

Fastenal usually carries a decent selection of rod but you'll pay dearly. For the tiny amount you need best bet is that machinist. If not alum, he'll have steel which will get you roll ling
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Old 12-30-2011, 05:36 PM   #48
pjm204 OP
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I got the triple and shock back from the shop. I'm working on getting the races out of the steering head. I also need to drop the muffler to get the shock on. The swingarm hits at full extension. Looks like I won't be using the stock exhaust.
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Old 12-30-2011, 09:37 PM   #49
sailah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
I'm trying to get the bike rideable by the end of the weekend.
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Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
...so tomorrow the bike should be a roller again.
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Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
Looks like I won't be using the stock exhaust.
Quoted for posterity
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Old 12-31-2011, 06:29 PM   #50
ben2go
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Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
I got the triple and shock back from the shop. I'm working on getting the races out of the steering head. I also need to drop the muffler to get the shock on. The swingarm hits at full extension. Looks like I won't be using the stock exhaust.
I use a brass drift (aka punch) to drive out all bearing races.It is softer than the surrounding steel and will not mar it up causing the new races to be hard to drive back in.I got my brass drift and bearing race drivers from Harbor Freight fairly cheap.

This is the metric bearing driver set I have and comes in a nice red case.They are also marked for the size they fit.
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...set-95853.html

This set is cheaper and will probably work for you.It's SAE sizes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/bushing...set-38145.html


I couldn't find a brass drift on the website but they are usually in the area with hammers and punches.Sometimes they are with the misc tools.The one I have is about 3/8 inch round by 8 inches long.
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:43 PM   #51
bk brkr baker
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A different kind of Ninja .
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:54 PM   #52
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That exhaust looks damn good.

Got new bearings in the rear wheel. Sadly it appears I lost a cush drive rubber. I also cannot get these damn races out of the steering head. My cold chisel just keeps chipping apart. Trying to source a race puller I can borrow.
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:23 PM   #53
ben2go
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Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
That exhaust looks damn good.

Got new bearings in the rear wheel. Sadly it appears I lost a cush drive rubber. I also cannot get these damn races out of the steering head. My cold chisel just keeps chipping apart. Trying to source a race puller I can borrow.
See if you can borrow/rent a slid hammer from and auto parts store with attachments.There is an attachment that you install on the slide hammer,then push it through the bearing race,it pivots open,and catches the back of the race.Then you just give the sliding weight a few hard jerks,and it pops out.Gotta plumbing type hand torch?A little heat above the race may loosen it.
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Old 01-03-2012, 07:52 AM   #54
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See if you can borrow/rent a slid hammer from and auto parts store with attachments.There is an attachment that you install on the slide hammer,then push it through the bearing race,it pivots open,and catches the back of the race.Then you just give the sliding weight a few hard jerks,and it pops out.Gotta plumbing type hand torch?A little heat above the race may loosen it.
I've asked at a couple autozones, it seems now of them have the race puller attachment. I'm going to keep checking. Otherwise I can borrow one from a buddy this weekend. But I hate wasting a week full of worknights
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Old 01-03-2012, 08:05 PM   #55
elgato gordo
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If you don't need to save the race you can run a short bead of weld on the inside with a TIG or MIG. I think it shrinks a little after it cools and will come right out.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207549
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Old 01-07-2012, 05:23 PM   #56
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I got the races out and the new ones in. Front end will be bolt on at this point. The issue I have is that I don't have the nuts for the stem and I don't know what stem it is to get replacements. I was told it is an Ohlins YZ450 stem, but someone else said it looked like a Pro-Taper. Dimensions for the threads are 30mm and 26mm approximately. The nuts from a YZ450 stem do not work.

Rear end is done once spacers are made...
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:01 PM   #57
ben2go
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
I got the races out and the new ones in. Front end will be bolt on at this point. The issue I have is that I don't have the nuts for the stem and I don't know what stem it is to get replacements. I was told it is an Ohlins YZ450 stem, but someone else said it looked like a Pro-Taper. Dimensions for the threads are 30mm and 26mm approximately. The nuts from a YZ450 stem do not work.

Rear end is done once spacers are made...
Check with a local tool supplier.They usually know all the hardware suppliers around and can get the od sizes sometimes used on motorcycle stems.Check here http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex and see if you have one close by.They have saved my but on many occasions.
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:55 AM   #58
sailah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
I got the races out and the new ones in. Front end will be bolt on at this point. The issue I have is that I don't have the nuts for the stem and I don't know what stem it is to get replacements. I was told it is an Ohlins YZ450 stem, but someone else said it looked like a Pro-Taper. Dimensions for the threads are 30mm and 26mm approximately. The nuts from a YZ450 stem do not work.

Rear end is done once spacers are made...
Check the outside diameter and use a thread pitch guage so you know what need. I'll check my stock again to see if I have one.
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:20 PM   #59
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Top nut is M26x1.25, Bottom nut is M30x1.25. Neither of these are common sizes but I was able to find nuts on a Roketa parts website so I ordered them. I also ordered the wheel spacers for the front wheel I was missing. Just need some spacers for the rear wheel made.

For people that are running the R1 shock. Have you found that it hits the stock muffler? I have no intention of using the stock muffler but I was planning to ride the bike to a different location to weld up the new headers
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:05 PM   #60
jdrocks
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For people that are running the R1 shock. Have you found that it hits the stock muffler? I have no intention of using the stock muffler but I was planning to ride the bike to a different location to weld up the new headers
very close, but no hit.
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