Mysteries of the Pamir

Mountains here are not as high as Fun Mountains or Gissar Giants. But the road grade lies on the level of not less than 3700 above sea.



I could not wait to see Murgab. And finally I saw it. As if it never left my life. During the three years of isolation here, I learned every house, every cliff and every stone there. 20 years passed, nothing changed. And the two most characteristic local colors were in place, too bright blue sky and ginger-red-yellowish surface, like on Mars.

Murgab kishlak on the horizon.


River Murgab.



I saw local kids and took my toy bags. Trust me, I did not ask them kids to pose, they just like to be onphotos.


House where I lived.



Had lunch in a good village café and took off for Rangkol Lake


Murgab kishlak with Mount Zerkalky in the backgrounds



Road to Rangkol


Pamir sky is dark blue for high altitude and tenuous air.

Thank you.
to be continued...

Spectacular! Thank you.

Wow, you are so kind to give gifts to the local children. Look at their faces - they are so happy!

It must be a real blessing to be able to visit the home and village where you spent some undoubtedly happy years of your life.

Hey privet Marat ... I never saw any Samsa that big :)

And great to see you made it back to Murgab!

Wow!

Epic.

Thanks for sharing a part of the world few see.

Thank you. really enjoying this.





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Thank you I am planning my own Pamir trip later this year after seeing a doco on it. It good to read about those that have gone before.


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Great pictures.

It's so beautiful, I'm at a loss for words.

Hi Walter!
may see such samsa in Jazzakh only. It's very big and testy!)

thanks to all! more....

Walcome! If you need any info contact me.

Rongkol Lake



Was very strongly surprised to run ton camels there. They seemed to feel in the same way. Never saw them camels in this places. And weather all time varies.






I did not care much about Lake. I wanted to see that ave with a mysterious fire. I really saw it once. There is even a local legend about that fire.
Long time ago, a gold caravan was passing thru this country. Caravan merchants learned that robbers would attack them at night. They saw a cave with the entrance located on a high altitude. They decided to hide there. They killed camels and made some kind of an embankment from their dead bodies. They hid in the cave with their gold and wolves ate all dead camels. Robbers found out where the gold was but they could not make it upwards. They surrounded the cliff hoping the merchants would capitulate and give gold for water and food. Time passed and no answer from caravan. Angry, robbers killed their camels and ascended in the cave same way the caravan merchants did. Inside, they found no men and no gold. So, the fire began to light there since those events. Like waving to others to tell about what got left after the caravan.
IN some time, I found the cliff and of course saw the cave. Disappointment was there was no fire.

Fire Cave Cliff.


No fire inside the cave.


and an alien space vessel))



Disappointed I decided to proceed to take a tour towards the border with China.

Rongkul Village.


Approaching Rongkul Village I noticed the coming of a sandstorm. Wind was growing stronger and the dust was penetrating thru helmet and goggles.




Видео

there was a frontier ranger station nearby. I asked them to host me. They did not refuse and immediately checked all credentials. Station Boss and his deputy took me to their office, verified me personality and gave hot tea. Young officers were doing their non-stop 3-year service time. Under the conditions of life similar to those on Mars, i.e. it is not clear if there any life there… or not… My mentality spoiled in urban communities does not succeed to comprehend such lifestyle. The latter actually has some benefits. Army men get paid some USD250 a month, with all high altitude bonuses included. That is a good salary for a young Tajik Lieutenant. Besides, one year of such service total three – thanks to Moutains.
The storm was fading and I had to go back to Murgab, before something else would happen. On the road back I looked at the cliff again and WOODSTOCK! I almost fell down from bike. Oh, Heavenly Happiness! I saw that fire. Or was it illusion? I promptly made several shots and checked them on the camera monitor just to make sure I did not have the high altitude tripping. This is not a hallucination. because twice in my life. I was happy! There was the fire.



Zoom managed to catch the fire



I chose to linger and took off. The weather was getting nasty again.


Back to Murgab.

Wind was geeting stronger again. It was rising dust and little rocks. They were drumming on me helmet.


Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v09q0Up5mAY

When I reached Murgab the wind eased and weather got clear again



My school with the Mount Zerkalky (Mirrors) in the backgrounds. They call it Mirrors for its surface keeps to shine for a long time after dawn


I was to this school, I remember everything. It was hard in the winter. A small coal stove warmed poorly in classroom. Teachers allowed us to sit in winter clothes and gloved hands. In the winter when it's -30C on the street . Bad-quality diesel freeze in generator, and often no electricity. A lot of what was not. Vegetables and fruits - is a luxury. Only when the holidays. Despite this we have lived here is not bad. I think now level living here has become worse.

When kids see an alien they gladly shout Hello! Looks like they have gotten used to expatriates.


Murgab’s Central Street. Like all such streets, in the past it was called Lenin Street


And here is himself – the Eternal Grandfather Lenin.

In the evening I met with my classmates. He was pleased and invited me to his house for the night. I know that 100 grams of vodka is good for acclimatization to the altitude. We drank two bottles!)) I was worry "mountain sickness" visit me at night. However, I immersed myself in sweet memories of my childhood and I slept very well.

to be continued...

Thanks Marat!

Great story and pics
I will ride in the area in June. When arriving in Almaty I will contact you for a beer

Safe rides,
Adrian

Splendid, simply splendid. What an incredible journey. Loved the pictures. I can only hope to someday have a similar adventure.

Great story

Hope to ride that area some day soon . Hope we can meet for a few wadkas and get ochen pianee

Cheers , Dan

According to Russians, 100 grams of vodka is good for everything !

And after two bottles of it, it will be a different type of sickness visiting you in the night !

Hi Adrian
I go to Pamir again in June 10, 2012, When you going to... conect with me.

Have a good trip!