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Old 02-09-2012, 05:56 PM   #38311
Sourjon
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Oddometer: 2,051
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
You bought a KLR last year? What died, the KLR or the LED battery indicator?

Spud
The indicator died. A buddy of mine had the KLR and bought a new Tennere. I'd always looked at the KLR's but never had one so I thought I'd bite. The L feels like a bicycle after being on that pig! I use it as a street bike and I really like it for the purpose. Rode it up to Vermont last fall for a week.

Those voltmeters will let you know when you have to many electrical gizmos running. Generally at speed I have two green lights. If I have heated gear of any kind and I stop at a light I'll drop to one green. Sometimes if the turn signal is blinking the last green will blink off and on opposite the turn meaning I'm right on the edge. The L doesn't have a lot to spare.

John
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Old 02-09-2012, 06:55 PM   #38312
Nasty Rider
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Eek Clutch Cable and Big Fins

Hey guys it has been awhile since I have been here. I was wondering if someone who has the Big Fin mod could post some pics of the Clutch cable I would like to see how you have it routed.
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Old 02-09-2012, 06:55 PM   #38313
oremike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim007 View Post
cause its cold and rainy ... lol and i didnt have the omph to move two bikes to get it out lol but perhaps i will here soon
That there is funny right there, I don't care who you are. Cold you can dress for and the R is a dirt bike , it likes it wet and dirty. I'll be out all day on my L and will post photos to show you what these bikes are for.
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:21 PM   #38314
Walterxr650l
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Donald, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasty Rider View Post
Hey guys it has been awhile since I have been here. I was wondering if someone who has the Big Fin mod could post some pics of the Clutch cable I would like to see how you have it routed.



I heated the bracket and twisted it a little.

Walter
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:05 PM   #38315
kenny61
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Romaniacs 2019
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Product Reports

Parts unlimited xring chain 7,000 miles time for a new one. was only $56 figured I would try it

T-63 120 rear tire. Not any easier to mount up looks way too skinny on the old girl. Ill be sticking with the 130's
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:27 PM   #38316
pngaudioguy
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Location: Belgium
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The post a few pages back inspired me to take a rubber mallet to my Stebel Nautilus horn. Indeed, the compressor and resonators do separate. Some rigging will still be required to get the contraption mounted and securely interconnected with no air leaks, but I'm feeling much more confident about finding a place to put it now. As it works out, I have the day off work tomorrow, and it's supposed to be a balmy 48 here in MA ... my last few evenings have been spent getting my rear fog light ready to go on my car.

I used the bumper reflector, and LED's from Mouser. Here's a shot gluing it back together after assembly. For some reason, my camera gave it an orange/yellow tint vs the red that my eye sees. You can see the constant current source in the upper left corner, from Instructables, adjusted to match the LED's I chose. Total power draw, 12W. Light output, 300 lumens. I have the option to push 700mA instead, which would bump me up to 24W draw, and eyeball searing amount of light. Those little f'ers are bright. My blind spots lasted about 5 minutes with them at full power.



So why am I posting something about my car, you ask? I plan to do the same thing to my XRL blinkers when I have time. I've done a bit of messing around so far, and determined that 3 of these each front and back will approximately match the brightness of the factory blinkers! I'd plan to push them at 1/2-3/4 power, which would run me 6-9W each (not in red, of course.) By comparison, the factory blinkers are 23W each.

Eventually, I want to do the brake light as well, with 12 LED's. When not braking, they'll pull 2W to put out about the amount of light our TV set does as a taillight. Tap the brake, and they go to full brightness (1100+ lumens, equal to a 70W incandescent light bulb according to Wikipedia - chart near bottom) while drawing a mere 16.8W.

Then there's the headlight, but I haven't picked out all the stuff for it yet. I know I'm targeting 3300 lumens low beam, 5000+ high beam in the patterns linked. If high beam accidentally throws too far, oh well. Hehe. I'm shooting for 4500+/- degrees Kelvin for low beam, 5000 K high beam for ideal visibility and natural color rendering. I expect the cost to be right around $150-200 in parts based on preliminary planning, and provide me with a very close to optimal headlight pattern that will not annoy oncoming traffic, drawing a target of 30W low, 50W high.

I have no intentions of making anything commercially or inmate-aly available, but once it's up and running will post results here, and happy to share part #'s and wiring diagrams with anyone who desires a similar configuration. If you've followed the last 1000 pages, yes, this is related to my fiberglass headlight shroud inquiries. Assuming I can get fiberglassing stuff in Belgium, a custom shroud is part of the plan as well.

Yes, there are cheaper ways. No, I don't care.
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:46 PM   #38317
michael.brat
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olderslowerguy View Post
The only way to fit a 16 is to remove the guard...I run a 16/42 with the CBR wheels, and never had a problem...have always used high quality chains though (drag bike tensile strength), not the cheap ones off Ebay...If you re-route the stator wires, you can even run a 17 on it, with minor "scratching" the cases...I did that on the bike in my avatar, when racing it at Daytona...
Anyone try using an aftermarket sprock guard with a 16T?
My main concern is getting my pant leg caught in there. Don't want to be reminded of BMXing as a kid. Most of my pants had greasy streamers at the bottom. What can i say, chain guards weren't cool....

Mike B
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Old 02-09-2012, 09:04 PM   #38318
tim007
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Location: portland///vancouver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oremike View Post
That there is funny right there, I don't care who you are. Cold you can dress for and the R is a dirt bike , it likes it wet and dirty. I'll be out all day on my L and will post photos to show you what these bikes are for.
lmao ..RIGHT naa its cause i was not wanting to move all the bikes around then out to the street at the tim as i took the pics as a(( oh shit i need to do this)) moment i will get a outside pic soon .. maybe tomorrow .. i need to take it for a rip up and down the street so see if i got the oil leak to stop .. ( every ricky stator i have put in has created a oil leak at the rubber gromit and where the wires come out

ass soon as i get this plated im going out on the wabcr
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Old 02-09-2012, 09:09 PM   #38319
mcma111
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Location: San Francisco,Ca.
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Snot a lot

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Old 02-09-2012, 09:21 PM   #38320
Idaho_XR
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Blue Turf
Oddometer: 259
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim007 View Post
whoot
ok so here she is in her ( lets get a plate so we can legally ride on street then remove this crap and make it look and be better) outfit :)


i installed the key kit that came with and have wired it as a kil switch aswell as having a kill switch lol

Bike looks great, all nice and cozy in the garage. What kind of head light shroud is that?
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Old 02-09-2012, 09:22 PM   #38321
ThumpnRed
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Eye Duh Hoe
Oddometer: 2,478
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim007 View Post
lmao ..RIGHT naa its cause i was not wanting to move all the bikes around then out to the street at the tim as i took the pics as a(( oh shit i need to do this)) moment i will get a outside pic soon .. maybe tomorrow .. i need to take it for a rip up and down the street so see if i got the oil leak to stop .. ( every ricky stator i have put in has created a oil leak at the rubber gromit and where the wires come out

ass soon as i get this plated im going out on the wabcr
And.... it still sits buried in the garage. We gotcha bleeding now... we'll keep picking at the scab 'til we see pictures in the driveway
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Old 02-09-2012, 09:57 PM   #38322
4stksonly
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Mulino, OR
Oddometer: 85
Cycle Wizard is a "GOD"

Just got the snail adjusters and intake adapter farkles for my L. OMG their frekin unbelivable. The fit is perfect and way cool. The intake adapter took the gap out between the air boot and the carb perfectly. The snail adjusters have such stout indents. No more rounded wimpy snail adjusters.................bye bye Now if I can only see an example of C-dubs dual exhaust for the L.....PIcked up 2 CRF250R cans with spark arrestors and quiet cores ( end cap is farkled red) I will be in heaven. Have to wait for rebuild by C-dud but thats coming. I'll post some pics as soon as I can.............get em while there hot "o" L breatheren you will not be disappointed.

Eric
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:10 PM   #38323
Ghost_Mutant
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: border of granite & flats
Oddometer: 712
Quote:
Originally Posted by pngaudioguy View Post
So why am I posting something about my car, you ask? I plan to do the same thing to my XRL blinkers when I have time. I've done a bit of messing around so far, and determined that 3 of these each front and back will approximately match the brightness of the factory blinkers! I'd plan to push them at 1/2-3/4 power, which would run me 6-9W each (not in red, of course.) By comparison, the factory blinkers are 23W each.

Eventually, I want to do the brake light as well, with 12 LED's. When not braking, they'll pull 2W to put out about the amount of light our TV set does as a taillight. Tap the brake, and they go to full brightness (1100+ lumens, equal to a 70W incandescent light bulb according to Wikipedia - chart near bottom) while drawing a mere 16.8W.

Then there's the headlight, but I haven't picked out all the stuff for it yet. I know I'm targeting 3300 lumens low beam, 5000+ high beam in the patterns linked. If high beam accidentally throws too far, oh well. Hehe. I'm shooting for 4500+/- degrees Kelvin for low beam, 5000 K high beam for ideal visibility and natural color rendering. I expect the cost to be right around $150-200 in parts based on preliminary planning, and provide me with a very close to optimal headlight pattern that will not annoy oncoming traffic, drawing a target of 30W low, 50W high.

I have no intentions of making anything commercially or inmate-aly available, but once it's up and running will post results here, and happy to share part #'s and wiring diagrams with anyone who desires a similar configuration. If you've followed the last 1000 pages, yes, this is related to my fiberglass headlight shroud inquiries. Assuming I can get fiberglassing stuff in Belgium, a custom shroud is part of the plan as well.

Yes, there are cheaper ways. No, I don't care.
Thanks for posting that Instructables link. I'm building my own dual sport kit for my second XR and I was planning on using some more "luxeon" LEDs again. After seeing this info, I'm reconsidering my strategy

My present LEDs on my already dual sported XR are 3 watt turn, and 5 watt brake/tail. The 3 watt/1156 are adequate in the daytime. But the 5 watt brake light is plenty bright and I would say about equal to the original incandescent.

The first set of regular type LEDs I bought were not bright enough for daytime use in my opinion. So the luxeon types are worth the extra $$ to be sure other drivers see my signals. Only problem I had with the "cheap" luxeon is that vibration eventually separated the heat sink from the housing, breaking two of my lights. They were put together with some kind of super glue that failed. I ended up using some JB weld on my still working lights to prevent the heat sink/housing separation. Now I may be able to save the broken ones by using the simple circuit featured in the Instructable.

Speaking of heat sinks, the LEDs you linked to at Mouser look similar to the luxeon that I have; but are you going to heat sink the LEDs somehow? I didn't see any extra heat sinking in the fog light photo.

I'd suggest you post a separate thread on your work and then announcing the link here. Probably be other riders who would want to know this info.
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:56 PM   #38324
Brtp4
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Bend, OR
Oddometer: 1,966
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4stksonly View Post
Just got the snail adjusters and intake adapter farkles for my L. OMG their frekin unbelivable. The fit is perfect and way cool. The intake adapter took the gap out between the air boot and the carb perfectly. The snail adjusters have such stout indents. No more rounded wimpy snail adjusters.................bye bye Now if I can only see an example of C-dubs dual exhaust for the L.....PIcked up 2 CRF250R cans with spark arrestors and quiet cores ( end cap is farkled red) I will be in heaven. Have to wait for rebuild by C-dud but thats coming. I'll post some pics as soon as I can.............get em while there hot "o" L breatheren you will not be disappointed.

Eric
Pics please.

BP
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:58 PM   #38325
tim007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idaho_XR View Post
Bike looks great, all nice and cozy in the garage. What kind of head light shroud is that?
ufo
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