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Old 11-23-2010, 06:02 AM   #91
toplessFC3Sman OP
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I'll need to look into the latch, thanks for letting me know! This one requires pulling up on the tab to get the top to open, and the broken one that had been on there appeared to work the same way, and b/c of the amount of "hook" to the top piece, really requires a good shove to the top of the cap and yank on the tab to get it to open

Taller MX style bars would be good too; I had bought a set of stock bars that was supposed to be off a '72 CL350, but it had some metal sleeve welded on that half-overlapped with the clamps, so I couldn't use it. It also wasn't drilled for the wiring from the left handgrip, (but had an almost identical right grip/throttle/switch assembly to the CL) so maybe this was a piece from an SL or off-road derivative. I don't expect the tuning will be too difficult if it originally made due with a carburetor and inertial ignition advance; to start I could just load up a fake ignition table based off of the stock unit & very basic fueling. The biggest challenge will probably be just the process of datalogging, since I can't sit the computer on the passenger seat and adjust while driving.

That Caswell stuff looks like it might do the trick; I'm going to look into any places locally that could boil the tank too.
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:58 AM   #92
Brad Felmey
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The original gas cap release was actually a push mechanism.

This be the new one:

http://store02.prostores.com/servlet/motorcyclesolutionsllc/the-4444/Honda-Gas-Cap-Latch/Detail

I'm not necessarily pushing that store - they just happen to have a good page showing the part, what it fits, and what it replaces.

This is the old one:

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Old 11-23-2010, 10:00 AM   #93
Brad Felmey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toplessFC3Sman
I'll need to look into the latch, thanks for letting me know! This one requires pulling up on the tab to get the top to open, and the broken one that had been on there appeared to work the same way, and b/c of the amount of "hook" to the top piece, really requires a good shove to the top of the cap and yank on the tab to get it to open

Taller MX style bars would be good too; I had bought a set of stock bars that was supposed to be off a '72 CL350, but it had some metal sleeve welded on that half-overlapped with the clamps, so I couldn't use it. It also wasn't drilled for the wiring from the left handgrip, (but had an almost identical right grip/throttle/switch assembly to the CL) so maybe this was a piece from an SL or off-road derivative. I don't expect the tuning will be too difficult if it originally made due with a carburetor and inertial ignition advance; to start I could just load up a fake ignition table based off of the stock unit & very basic fueling. The biggest challenge will probably be just the process of datalogging, since I can't sit the computer on the passenger seat and adjust while driving.

That Caswell stuff looks like it might do the trick; I'm going to look into any places locally that could boil the tank too.
If you get the tank cleaned out (be it acid, boiling, electrolysis, whatever) give consideration to a good electroless nickel plating. A good job will see the tank last for 20+ years with no corrosion whatsoever. If you're going to the trouble of cleaning out the inside of the tank there's no reason to coat it with glop unless you're trying to seal leaks.
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:30 PM   #94
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Been quite a while since I've posted anything from this project, but its been slowly progressing. No pictures right now, but I've been slowly working on various small mounts & whatnot for the relays, fuse box, regulator/rectifier, battery & the MS itself, and have made lots of progress on the wiring. I'm leaving the stock harness pretty-much intact minus ignition, battery, charging & coil wires, with a connector from the CBR harness to pass power to the lighting as well as hook the stop switch on the handlebar. The charging system & fused power is all new (although very roughly based on the stock CBR), and the wiring for the megasquirt itself is all new.

At this point, I just need to finish up adding a couple connectors for the fuel pump & air temp sensor, and running a bunch of ground wires, and the harness should be good to go. Not much in the way of pictures right now, but I'll try to grab some over the weekend.

Still need to decide what to do about the tank, as well as mount the fuel pump, filter, & run the fuel lines. I managed to break the stock fuel pressure regulator too, so I'll need to find another one of them. I also need to get a narrowband O2 sensor or two, & weld the bungs onto the exhaust for them. Still a bit of work, but with some luck, it could hopefully be time to try to start her up in a month or so.
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Old 03-22-2011, 09:26 PM   #95
Mr. Vintage
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Old 03-23-2011, 12:04 PM   #96
roasterx
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Keep it up! This is going to be so awesome!
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Old 02-04-2012, 03:51 PM   #97
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Back from the dead, again. Its gotten cold enough to discourage me from doing too much to the car in what little free time I have. Since last post we've moved again, and now there really isn't space in the living room or elsewhere in the apartment for a motorcycle. Therefore, it's living down in the storage unit, surrounded by tools, boxes of parts, and other project-related stuff.


Anyhow, I've been making a bit of progress on the wiring, and tying up loose ends here & there. Basically just the power & ground need to be run for the fuel pump (since I'm still not sure where I'm going to put that), and then the air temperature, O2 sensor, and idle valve need to be wired up. Then, its wrapping the whole mess up in conduit & harness tape.


I'm planning on using one of the solenoid air valves from the emissions control on the project car as the idle valve for the bike, since its pretty small, electrically controlled, and is meant for a vacuum tube. That way, I can just plumb it to a vacuum port on each throttle body after the throttle. The fuel system is going to be primarily made from coated steel hard lines & compression fittings, since I can make those more compact than barbs & rubber hoses, plus they'll be less likely to leak, puncture, pull off, melt etc. I wanted to do an in-tank fuel pump, but the shape of the CL's tank really doesn't leave me anywhere to do it where the pick-up will be relatively close to the bottom, so external it is.


And lastly, when testing all of the electrical systems, all the lights, accessories & whatnot seem to be working as intended now. Plus, when cranking the bike over with the starter, the retrofitted alternator & CBR rectifier/regulator is putting out 8.5V, a very good sign!
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Old 02-04-2012, 06:11 PM   #98
Chobro
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Glad this project is still going, keep at it!
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Old 02-04-2012, 06:32 PM   #99
brucifer
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Originally Posted by Chobro View Post
Glad this project is still going, keep at it!
+1

This is such a cool project.
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Old 02-11-2012, 01:09 PM   #100
bdjuju
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Can't recall if I've mentioned this earlier (it's been so long..) but I've been trying to solve the fuel pump issue as well, subject is a CB550-4. I really want to use a Suzuki in-tank pump & have a smashed up GSXR tank was planning on grafting the flange area into the bottom of the 550's tank at some point. Maybe some experimentation with a junk CL tank is in order?
The other trick may be to use a smaller 'surge tank', place the pump in that, somewhere in the 'triangle' area under the seat, and just feed it from the main tank.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:32 AM   #101
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Wow, another year gone by? I really need to get in gear & get this done! Anyway, some renewed progress now that the project car is frozen shut, and a friend at work has introduced me to what is basically a crowd-sourced workshop with welding equipment, mills & lathes, electronics lab, all sorts of stuff - i3Detroit, but anyway, this comes at a great time, since the biggest part of the bike holding me back right now is some welding that I need to do on the fuel rails, tank, and a couple fittings. After a lot of consideration and some mock-up, the general layout I'm planning on going with is this:

So the pump draws from the tank at the location for the stock carb feed valve (through a filter, which isn't shown here), and pressurizes the fuel. Now, instead of sending the pressurized fuel through both rails, in one end & out the other, the rails are on their own spur coming off of the high-pressure side of the fuel pressure regulator (FPR), with only an inlet. Plumbing it this way means that I'll need to make sure that the fuel lines running from the rails need to be continuously getting higher so that any air bubbles that get trapped can make their way up to the regulator to get purged. This shouldn't be a problem with the orientation of the throttle bodies, and by capping the other end of the rail, I'll have less tubing running around out near my legs where it could possibly get snagged, and would need fewer other fittings to complete the fuel system. The FPR will be mounted right underneath the tank so that it's higher than the rails, and can drain right back into the tank.

To get the FPR to work properly, I'm going to need to drain into the top of the tank, so that the fuel pressure doesn't change with the amount of gas in the tank, so to do that I'll need to weld a new fitting onto the bottom of the tank with a tube that sticks up near the top so that the fuel will always be flowing out above the fuel level. For the moment I'm just going to weld an NPT bung to the tank, and plan on using a compression fitting with the tube sticking far through it to accomplish this. I also need to weld another fitting on the tank for the outlet, since the stock outlet is stripped and in poor shape. Then I can worry about re-sealing it where the POR15 coating was flaking off.

The fuel pump itself has proven to be a bit of a problem, since I can't use an in-tank pump (which would simplify life substantially - except there isn't room). The smallest external pump I could find was a Walbro GSL393, which is 155 lpm flow, and will be drawing 5-6 amps where I'll be using it. The problem is that the fittings on the ends are M10x1.0 straight thread, and I've had a really hard time finding much that fits that on one side and ends in a compression tube fitting on the other. I could go to NPT or -6 AN in the middle, but then it becomes really bulky. Instead, I'm going to take the M10x1.0 threaded hose barbs that came with it, chop off the hose barb, and weld on a 90* compression fitting for a nice, compact adapter.

All of the various fittings & whatnot for the next stage have been ordered, and hopefully I can try to get it done later this week or early next week. In the mean time, I took a spare fuel rail and pressure regulator from the project RX-7 and hacked it up and threaded it to give me a nice block to screw in some compression fittings.



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Old 01-29-2013, 06:40 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by bdjuju View Post
Can't recall if I've mentioned this earlier (it's been so long..) but I've been trying to solve the fuel pump issue as well, subject is a CB550-4. I really want to use a Suzuki in-tank pump & have a smashed up GSXR tank was planning on grafting the flange area into the bottom of the 550's tank at some point. Maybe some experimentation with a junk CL tank is in order?
The other trick may be to use a smaller 'surge tank', place the pump in that, somewhere in the 'triangle' area under the seat, and just feed it from the main tank.
I was considering the same idea, and had bought a CBR in-tank pump assembly to try to mock it up, but there just wasn't the cross-sectional area to fit the pump in the tank anywhere near the bottom. It would have required some major hacking & re-welding of the tank. Now, IIRC, the 550's tank is a bit wider, so you may be able to fit it, after adjusting where the pickup will sit and welding on a nice flange. This may be version 2 for me too, finding a larger tank that I can do that with, but for the moment I'm sticking with the external.

The triangle under the seat is already taken by a re-located battery box, relays, and the megasquirt itself, so the only empty real-estate I have is between and below the carbs over the transmission. Ive sat and stared at it for a number of nights trying to figure out where to put stuff so that it all fits, and trying to keep the high-current and high-voltage components away from sensitive electronics & fuel connections.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:44 AM   #103
roasterx
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It's great to see you back at it. This is by far, the most interesting thing I've read on here. Keep up the good work man.
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:09 AM   #104
brucifer
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All right!
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:06 PM   #105
Kt-88
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Most interesting thread on this board, to me. Sub'd. I have a bunch of cb/cl/sl stuff laying around if you decide you need something.
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