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Old 03-04-2012, 01:49 AM   #16
Vicks
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Abu Dhabi, UAE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
Someone want to take the time to explain ACC1 vs ACC2?
ACC2 is switched and ACC1 is powered all the time irrespective of the ignition key/switch position. If you have an electrical accessory (heated grip/some other stuff/GPS) connected to ACC1 and leave it on after you ride/switch off the engine, the device will continue to be powered unless you turn it off yourself, draining the battery.

Also, the ACC1 and the clock share the same fuse. So if you fook up something on the ACC1 while connecting a device or something and create a short circuit etc, the fuse will blow. Even if you shift your device to ACC2, the clock on your display won't work bcos of the blown fuse. You can use one of the spare fuses provided. If you run out of spare fuses, and if you have a 990S/R without ABS, you can use the ABS fuse (which is also 10A).
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Give me a dark... long... winding road, three gears to go and my Hellas on fire !!
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Old 03-04-2012, 02:35 AM   #17
charlie264
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9*0 CHAIN SLIDER: YERY IMPORTANT.

KTM released a safety recall. The chain slider is a plastic protector that sits around the swing arm guiding and protecting the chain from the swing arm. If it becomes detached it may become entangled in the front sprocket causing the rear wheel to lock. Happened to a chap at 90mph on the slab.

Simple to check and resolve, remove the two bolts from the swing arm, clean and apply plenty blue thread lock i.e. loctite 243, and tighten to 6nm.



http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551666
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charlie264 screwed with this post 03-04-2012 at 02:56 AM
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:06 AM   #18
hattah79
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Somerville VIC AUST
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CALIPER SLIDE PINS

Check the rear and front brake calipers slide on the slide pins
Where the caliper mounts to the bracket
When changing rear tyre ( you will eat these up) remove caliper clean up grease pin

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Old 03-04-2012, 07:28 AM   #19
Geek OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicks View Post
ACC2 is switched and ACC1 is powered all the time irrespective of the ignition key/switch position. If you have an electrical accessory (heated grip/some other stuff/GPS) connected to ACC1 and leave it on after you ride/switch off the engine, the device will continue to be powered unless you turn it off yourself, draining the battery.

Also, the ACC1 and the clock share the same fuse. So if you fook up something on the ACC1 while connecting a device or something and create a short circuit etc, the fuse will blow. Even if you shift your device to ACC2, the clock on your display won't work bcos of the blown fuse. You can use one of the spare fuses provided. If you run out of spare fuses, and if you have a 990S/R without ABS, you can use the ABS fuse (which is also 10A).
And I would add: When you take the headlight off the bike, you will find pre-wired and labled ACC1 and ACC2 spade connectors for hooking up accessories.

Remember: If you hook something to ACC1 and leave it on.. you will kill your battery (refer to jump starting procedure )
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:00 AM   #20
Apple Jam
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Mt Hood mud flow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMuffinMan View Post
The stock right mirror mount point is on the fr. brake master cylinder. When you tip over there's a high possibility of it breaking; you have been warned.
Yep. It'll break all right. Here's a photo of the broken piece on the right, after smacking my mirror.
I got away with it, and it didn't leak any brake fluid.
KTM offers a "right side mirror relocator" for $12.95. Buy it.

BTW, the BIG chunk, on the left.....that's the chunk from my engine case, because I didn't buy a side stand relocator soon enough !!!

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Old 03-04-2012, 11:04 AM   #21
DesertSurfer
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And the steering stops...

The factory set the steering stops wide out for shipping purposes I suspect. That contributes to an extremely exaggerated wide turning radius. By adjusting the steering head stops down to just before the bars hit the side fairings, you gain a much greater turning angle... for a more agile feel on the bike. It made a huge difference and boost in fun factor/ confidence for me. I got that info from here and this savvy community( thanks Geo!!!).
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Old 03-04-2012, 02:20 PM   #22
Beema Killa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
I would like to respectfully suggest we try and keep the "chatter" in this thread to a minimum so that it isn't overwhelming to a new 9x0 owner as they're starting to learn about their bike.

Congrats on buying a 950/990!

It is an amazing machine...

Please find below a list of important issues that you should consider addressing (sooner than later) with your bike.
A little preventative maintenance will make your life easier in the long run.

Some things to know:

The HOW: www.ktm950.info This is the Hall Of Wisdom (HOW). It will take you a bit to digest it all, but the more you read the HOW, the more you'll understand your new bike.

SIDE STAND DESIGN FLAW: Your sidestand is mounted to your engine case. If you drop the bike on it, you could easily do a few thousand dollars in damage (as several members here have had happen).
You should strongly consider an aftermarket relocation bracket of some sort; there are many different solutions available. More info here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=769436

CHAIN ADJUSTERS: After riding thousands of miles under the water, through the mud, and over the ice bergs... you are going to find that your chain adjusters have seized into your swing arm. Take a few minutes, unscrew them all the way and put anti-seize on them.. put them back in and then know they aren't going to snap off on you a few years from now.
Some people also like to drill 1/8" drain holes in the bottom rear of their swingarms to allow the inevitable trapped water to drain out.

MUD GUARD CUTTING SWINGARM: Take a look at your plastic mudguard that protects your rear shock from debris from the rear tire.
See how it lightly brushes (some bike yes, some bikes no) against the swingarm on the sides? Over the next 25,000 miles that will actually grind a hole in your swingarm. Pull the mudguard off and trim 1/4" off of each side so that there is NO contact with the swingarm (remember to account for suspension compression.. so trim it further up than you think)

Again.. congratulations on purchasing one of the most capable motorcycles ever designed. By learning form the Wisdom of the Forum your bike should easily last 100,000+ miles. We hope you enjoy learning from our mistakes

That'll start this thread. NEXT!

Remember gents, the objective here is just the essentials a new owner needs to know. The HOW is definitely the destination they're headed for... but this will give them some stuff to chew on before they get overwhelmed.
Can't thank the contributors on this site such as yourself enough for sharing your knowledge and lessons learned with new 990 owners. Its good to know you all have each other's backs when it comes to smoothing out the transition that comes with ownership of a new ride.Cheers.
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:23 AM   #23
MudratinOz
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top thread, keep the hints and tricks coming
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:01 AM   #24
Katoom119
Mmmm....Orange Kool-aid
 
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Calculate your fuel mileage by hand BEFORE doing anything to the engine. And because I know people (with degrees in Chemistry) that don't know how:

1. Fill your bike up. 2. Reset the trip odometer. 3. Ride it until the light comes on or some point there-of. 4. Fill the bike back up completely. 5. Now, take the number of miles and divide by the number of gallons you just put in. Example 143 miles / 4.2 gallons = 34.05 mpg

IF YOU ARE GETTING ANYTHING IN THE 40+ MPG RANGE DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO THE BIKE

Do not do a canisterectomy. Don't do the SASectomy. If you change the exhaust don't have anyone retune/reflash the ECU with what KTM says is the appropriate map. I wouldn't even let KTM plug in a diagnostic tool (but I'm paranoid).

Why? You have one of the mythical fantastically amazing KTM maps that actually works. I'd wager money that the throttle is as smooth as a Yamaha R1.

KTM released a few bikes, mainly 07 - 09 range to my knowledge, that had a couple of rough spots in the mapping. In an effort to fix this a lot of us, myself included, changed throttle body butterflies, pulled the charcoal canister and the SAS system, to no avail. The only way I finally fixed mine was with TuneBoy and Ken Wheeler's dyno over at Deal's Gap. TuneECU is now the newer, better, cheaper version.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:38 AM   #25
Ladukebob
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Great thread

Geek, thanks for starting this thread. And thanks to everyone who has contributed and thanks to everyone that will contribute from here on forward.

I'm new to the world of ktm and have spent hours in the Orange Crush section sponging up all info possible. This is an awesome place and I feel I've learned quite a bit in a short time.

Checked my mileage yesterday after the fuel light came on and after I had ridden about 16 miles to the nearest station. 160 miles and it took 4 gallons to fill. I'm pleased as hell and know not to do anything to the bike. I also need to check the turning stops as I'll bet the previous owner didn't.

Thanks again!!
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:16 PM   #26
Tee2
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Thanks for starting this thread.

I'm still a newbie only 5,000 miles but the one thing I found, a strong magnet works great to pull the oil filter out.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:51 PM   #27
TheMuffinMan
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The generator plug cover (for valve adjustments/manually cranking the engine) is plastic and cracks very easily.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:28 AM   #28
jclark83
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Cliff Notes Version

Awesome thread. As a new 950 owner it's nice to have the "Cliff Notes" version of the OC forum
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:38 AM   #29
Narsisco Lopez
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One more small, but important thing to remember:

After finishing a day's ride, remember to try to wipe the shit-eating grin off your face before walking into the house. If your wife or significant other sees it too often, she's gonna think you're having an affair or something.
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:47 AM   #30
Blackbert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMuffinMan View Post
The generator plug cover (for valve adjustments/manually cranking the engine) is plastic and cracks very easily.
I know. but there's an Orange anodised alu replacement in the KTM hard parts catalogue.
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