Light 'Em Up

[DSM8]

I went with a smaller LED, they put out about 900 Lumens each and are a single 10watt Cree LED.

Cost is bout 200 ea but they are mil spec and very solid while only being about 2" in diameter.

Got the flood option and will be putting an HID in the low beam for the Euro headlight to finish out the lighting. I wanted something that would not be attached to crash bars or such and sat up high in a static position unlike the ones that mount to the forks.

Just personal preference.



Low/High/LED all on



Just the LED's

[biggus]

Originally Posted by KTMforget

The Rigid lights should not rub the stock front fender if adjusted correctly. There is plenty of side to side adjustment on the light mounts. The Rigid mounting brackets can also be installed in the reverse position to tuck the lights up closer to the triple clamp mount, which may eliminate some of the rubbing as well.

I hope that helps. Thanks
Kurt

When I mounted up the lights I was being anal about position in the bracket so placed them center not thinking that they would ever come close to rubbing the fender. I later found that out on the 950s first real off road trip through the Cardamom Mountains in Cambodia, the Smugglers Trail to be more exact, the hardest in Cambodia.

I will adjust them out wider to avoid rubbing in the future.

Thanks,
Jim

[mknight]

So I finally had a free night and got around to finishing up the install on the lights and took the bike around the block. Very very happy with what I can see (and now I can see a lot!).

Here's a few pics looking down the lane on the side of my house.

Regular USA spec low beam.


Regular USA spec high beam.


High Beam with the Rigid D2's


And they look good too.

[Questor]

Hey mknight.

Thanks for posting the pictures.

I noticed that your D2's are mounted "low" from the mounting brackets.
If you rotate the mounting brackets 180 degrees (not the triple tree mount) you can mount the lights "higher" to the bracket.

You should be able to get the top of the lights within 3/4" of the top of the bracket.

Just thought you might want to know.

Q~

[mknight]

Originally Posted by Questor

Hey MKnight.

Thanks for posting the pictures.

I noticed that your D2's are mounted "low" from the mounting brackets.
If you rotate the mounting brackets 180 degrees (not the triple tree mount) you can mount the lights "higher" to the bracket.

You should be able to get the top of the lights within 1" of the top of the bracket.

Just thought you might want to know.

Q~

Nice catch. I didn't even realize that. I'll adjust them up. I did notice that the "rigid industries" engraved name is upside down this way as well.

[Questor]

Originally Posted by mknight

Nice catch. I didn't even realize that. I'll adjust them up. I did notice that the "rigid industries" engraved name is upside down this way as well.

That's the face plate.
It can be rotated 180 degrees so the lettering is right side up.
Take out the face screws (they are not metric) and you can flip the face plate.

They are great lights aren't they?
I get flashed by oncoming vehicles in the daytime.

Q~

[mknight]

Originally Posted by Questor

I noticed that your D2's are mounted "low" from the mounting brackets.
If you rotate the mounting brackets 180 degrees (not the triple tree mount) you can mount the lights "higher" to the bracket.

You should be able to get the top of the lights within 3/4" of the top of the bracket.

Q~

Call me stupid, but I checked and I don't see how this can be flipped 180 degrees and still fit under the light housing and fairing.

If I flip the mounting bracked so it is on top of the Black Dog Triple clamp mount, there is not room for the lights to fit. Perhaps you have yours mounted on an SE and there is more room?

I also looked at the picture on the Black Dog website and they show theirs mounted the same as mine.

http://www.blackdogcw.com/black-dog-.../275-2079.html

[Questor]

Originally Posted by mknight

Call me stupid, but I checked and I don't see how this can be flipped 180 degrees and still fit under the light housing and fairing.

If you rotate the D2 mounting brackets, so the curved part faces forward, you can mount the lights closer to the light bar.



Does that help?

Q~

[Narsisco Lopez]

Installed a DDM Tuning H7/H3 HID conversion in my new Euro Headlight...

[Cowtowner]

Another question on wiring - can I wire the switch for the PIAA harness into a switched ACC lead that also has the KTM heated grips plugged into it?

I'm thinking the switch itself can't be consuming much power at all. I want to run the switch wire to switched power and can't figure out where else to pick up switched power other than the ACC lead.

[KTMforget]

Originally Posted by Cowtowner

Another question on wiring - can I wire the switch for the PIAA harness into a switched ACC lead that also has the KTM heated grips plugged into it?

I'm thinking the switch itself can't be consuming much power at all. I want to run the switch wire to switched power and can't figure out where else to pick up switched power other than the ACC lead.

That should work fine. The ignition trigger wire on the PIAA just activates the relay and draws next to nothing for juice.

Hope that helps
Kurt

[2upAussie990]

I haven't got them yet but ordered them last week, but we have severe flooding over here and highways are cut, but have 2 x 12v HID torches coming with a mounting bracket, they are 2000 lumens each, and very compact, actually they are hunting torches and mount onto a rifle scope with a 12v lead and power socket on the end. I'll mount them on my crash bars or i'll make a bracket and fit them near my blinkers, then fit connectors so I can take them off easily. got too many Kangaroos around here to dodge and with winter coming on it is dark before I get home.
hope to receive them tomorrow.

[Cowtowner]

Originally Posted by KTMforget

That should work fine. The ignition trigger wire on the PIAA just activates the relay and draws next to nothing for juice.

Hope that helps
Kurt

Thanks Kurt. I have the harness from another bike but need to update my lights - I'll be getting a hold of you guys on that. John E.

[uk_mouse]

Inspired by all these fancy LEDs I resolved to do something similar to my bike, although I also resolved to do it in the way I normally fettle my 950 - ON THE CHEAP

I know a guy who sells "Magicshine" mountain bike lights. He had some defective units, and gave them to me for free (this model ). I took them apart and discovered that the current regulator in the lamps had fried itself, but the LEDs were still fully operational. I got a cheap current regulator from ebay ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230697910875 ).

So, I stripped out the circuit board from the lamps, and wired direct to the LEDs. I setup my new regulator to a constant 2.4 amps, and housed it in a little plastic box. (The figure of 2.4 amps I found by measuring the current usage of a non-broken lamp I had).

A couple of U bolts and some sort of brackets I found in my "box o' junk" provided mounts for the lamps. The regulator in its box is cable tied to the frame on the right. Supply to the reg is direct from the main beam circuit, I didn't both with a relay as it only takes approx 1.5 amps, and I've got a 35 watt HID in the main beam - giving a total of approx 4.5 amps, roughly what the original halogen lamp would draw.



The results are pleasing but not earth shattering. The LED lamps have a nice beam pattern - a sort of soft focus spot - so they provide good infill to make up for the not-so-good beam pattern of the OEM headlight. Here's a photo of dipped beam, and full beam + LEDs. Sadly I didn't think to take a comparison of full beam without the LEDs. Both my dip and full beam are 35 watt HIDs, by the way.




All in all, not bad for an outlay of approx 10 quid