KLR650 Only Thread......

[RandoCommando]

Originally Posted by SkiBumBrian

I did the drill through mod, it was a PITA, used about a gallon of cutting oil and made a huge mess but it's over and glad I did it......

I did the EM drill through kit as well.
No lube.
Took me about an hour of drilling and probably dulled the bits unusable.
Glad i did it though.
Piece of mind.
EM was nice enough to send me a longer screw for my left side because I have the Top Gun Chain Master.

[Thanantos]

Originally Posted by bunghole

2011 klr w 3300 miles

I never had any oil burning issues when I was using Rotella 15 40. When I switched to Mobile 4T 10 40 at 2500 miles, I burned a qt in 800 miles. Any thoughts?

Wow, interesting and worrying. Have you switched back yet to see what happens?

[astrolump]

Originally Posted by Thanantos

Speaking of that subframe upgrade....has anyone here ever broken theirs?

And under what circumstances?



I'm interested because although I do off road occassionally I typically do not do so with luggage.

I broke my upgraded short bolts..on braintree gap road fully loaded. got on the hard road and the bike was all wobbly...i think they were grade 12 from twisted throttle..(they came with the crash-bars)...


the whole sub-frame was hanging by one loose bolt.

i think the crash bars were the culprits there though. the bolts were bent before they gave way and the crash-bars were under a tremendous amount of strain...they never fit quite right from the start and i think the tension, plus some dirt naps did the bolts in.
it looked as if they backed out, bent then snapped...i am going to do the EM upgrade before the next big trip.

[DirtyDog]

Originally Posted by Thanantos

Speaking of that subframe upgrade....has anyone here ever broken theirs?

And under what circumstances?



I'm interested because although I do off road occassionally I typically do not do so with luggage.

It's the touring with heavy luggage/ass/passenger that is gonna stress these parts. Offroad riding (unless you are doing HUGE jumps and crashing ALOT) is not likely to do near the damage to your subframe or hardware as touring. If you read the manual and see the manufacturer's suggested weight limits, you'd probably agree that most touring KLR riders are on overburdened bikes.

From experience, I speak.

I'm on my 3rd subframe in 70,000 miles. Failures were not due to hardware.

Never broken an upgraded bolt and I have NOT done the drill-through mod. My bolts are from ACE.

[astrolump]

i think the #1 best reason for the drill through mod....when i did break them it was a pain in the A$$ trying to drill out the broken ends of those grade 12 bolts to get an easy out in there....much rather do the drilling at home than in a campground with a borrowed crummy drill and not have to worry about it again.

[<RP><]

Originally Posted by HellSickle

On the plus side, your pad linings are still in great shape!

That rotor doesn't look too hot. Can you take it to a good machine shop for a quick surface grind?

Always a good idea to give used bikes a thorough going over.

Yeah, I probably should. The disk looks worse in the photo than it really is, when I have the wheel off to spoon on the D606's I'm going to have a closer look at the disk and decide then.

[RandoCommando]

Ok. So this is my first attempt at electrolysis and image uploads.
I just opened the PhotoBucket account 10 minutes ago.
I bought this 1996 KLR 650 tank from a guy off craigslist.
He said there was some minor rust on the outside, but not on the inside.
When I picked up the tank, it was dark out and I couldn't see inside the tank too well.
I did see rust in the tank, but knew it could be fixed as I saw others had done it.



Right side of the tank. As you can see, aside from a few minor scratches, tank looks great.




Underside of tank looking from front to rear.




Top front of the tank. Notice the two little rust spots on the right side of the picture (left side of tank).




Left side of the tank.




Gas cap opening. YUCK




Another shot of the gas cap opening.




Inside the tank.




Another shot inside the tank.




Underside of tank.




Petcock opening. It was sealed with duct tape. Notice the tape glue still on the tank. I'll remove that later.




The container I bought at Home Depot that the tank would fit in.




The container again.




The steel.




The steel again.




Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda.




Just after submerging the tank in the water.




My stepfather's battery charger.




The tank when I first connected the electricity. Mind you, I'm using the 10AMP setting.




After an hour and a half of electrolysis.




After four and a half hours of electrolysis.






I can't wait to see the finished product. I'm going to leave it in for 24 hours.
I'll redo it again after that.
I'll post pictures tomorrow after I pull it out of the tank.
I just have to figure out how I'm going to dry it and prevent it from rusting again.
Any ideas?

[sparkymcgee]

Originally Posted by Thanantos

Wow, interesting and worrying. Have you switched back yet to see what happens?

I'm going to watch it closely until my next scheduled oil change and decide then.

Any chance I did any damage?

[rdnman]

Has anyone actually had a problem with the stock Doo hickey??

[RandoCommando]

Originally Posted by rdnman

Has anyone actually had a problem with the stock Doo hickey??

I replaced mine with 3000 miles on the bike.
It was broken, but did not cause any damage.
The spring was still intact.
I think when the spring breaks, it causes the most damage.
Even though my lever was broken, it was still in the same location.
Maybe I got lucky?
I thought it was better to spend about $100 for doohickey parts then have to do hundreds of dollars of engine work.
Mind you, the 2008 KLR bikes had an improved doohickey put in.
Mine is on a 1999 KLR.

[tommu56]

Originally Posted by RandoCommando

Ok. So this is my first attempt at electrolysis and image uploads.
I just opened the PhotoBucket account 10 minutes ago.
I bought this 1996 KLR 650 tank from a guy off craigslist.
He said there was some minor rust on the outside, but not on the inside.
When I picked up the tank, it was dark out and I couldn't see inside the tank too well.
I did see rust in the tank, but knew it could be fixed as I saw others had done it.



Right side of the tank. As you can see, aside from a few minor scratches, tank looks great.
Underside of tank looking from front to rear.
Top front of the tank. Notice the two little rust spots on the right side of the picture (left side of tank).
Left side of the tank.
Gas cap opening. YUCK
Another shot of the gas cap opening.
Inside the tank.
Another shot inside the tank.
Underside of tank.
Petcock opening. It was sealed with duct tape. Notice the tape glue still on the tank. I'll remove that later.
The container I bought at Home Depot that the tank would fit in.
The container again.
The steel.
The steel again.
Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda.
Just after submerging the tank in the water.
My stepfather's battery charger.
The tank when I first connected the electricity. Mind you, I'm using the 10AMP setting.
After an hour and a half of electrolysis.
After four and a half hours of electrolysis.

I can't wait to see the finished product. I'm going to leave it in for 24 hours.
I'll redo it again after that.
I'll post pictures tomorrow after I pull it out of the tank.
I just have to figure out how I'm going to dry it and prevent it from rusting again.
Any ideas?

I used Kreem on a generator tank

www.kreem.com (some reason the link isn't working right now?)

another one is "pour something" and KBS never used them though.

tom

[NHMatt]

Originally Posted by bunghole

I'm going to watch it closely until my next scheduled oil change and decide then.

Any chance I did any damage?

My 08 was fine with oil the first 4000 miles. I was always checking it and it was always fine. I was running Rotella in it since day one. I got too lax on my oil checks because it was never low until Friday when I pull off the exit to my house and hear a loud ticking. It was low on oil and cooked the exhaust journal. I guess it takes the breaking in before it starts to really burn oil. Mine has 5000 miles and is in pieces in my back yard right now.

[rdnman]

There won't be any gas in so place an electric heater under it to get the temp up but not burn the paint. Depending on how you want to seal it from further rust you can coat the inside with a tank sealer. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-gas-tank-...FSQZQgodPk_bIw

I would spray it with Amsoil metal protector just to coat it till I get gas in it. Gas will keep it from rusting unless you leave it stored for long periods and condensation forms. The water will settle on the bottom and you'll be back into it. Don't leave them sit and all will be well.

How much Arm and Hammer did you use per gallon of water?





I can't wait to see the finished product. I'm going to leave it in for 24 hours.
I'll redo it again after that.
I'll post pictures tomorrow after I pull it out of the tank.
I just have to figure out how I'm going to dry it and prevent it from rusting again.
Any ideas?[/QUOTE]

[RandoCommando]

Originally Posted by tommu56

I used Kreem on a generator tank

www.kreem.com (some reason the link isn't working right now?)

another one is "pour something" and KBS never used them though.

tom

Thanks Tom!
The link isn't working because you have two links together. LOL

This link should work

http://www.kreem.com/

[RandoCommando]

Originally Posted by rdnman

There won't be any gas in so place an electric heater under it to get the temp up but not burn the paint. Depending on how you want to seal it from further rust you can coat the inside with a tank sealer. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-gas-tank-...FSQZQgodPk_bIw

I would spray it with Amsoil metal protector just to coat it till I get gas in it. Gas will keep it from rusting unless you leave it stored for long periods and condensation forms. The water will settle on the bottom and you'll be back into it. Don't leave them sit and all will be well.

How much Arm and Hammer did you use per gallon of water?

I used 1 tablespoon per gallon of water.
I used 23 gallons of water in the plastic tub to submerge the tank as best as possible.
Getting air out of the tank while it's upside down in the tub was a PITA, but I think I got it all out.
This tank will be stored as a back up tank in case I damage mine.
Either that, or I'll sell it.
I'm wondering if the screw holes will need to be re-tapped after this is done.