needle bearing in oil pan - Page 2

elite-less · 03-31-2012, 07:29 PM

[/QUOTE]

Hmmmm...... Supershaft was on the mark, It looks like the locating pin to the front main bearing to me. I just installed one last month.

If that's the case.... you'll need to pull the front bearing carrier to inspect. Hopefully, you can set/peen in a new pin, but if the bearing has moved or spun.... that's a different story.

.

Renner · 03-31-2012, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supershaft

Oh no. That sounds like the front main bearing locating pin.

There you have it.

better to discover it this way, tbounds.

Bill Harris · 03-31-2012, 08:49 PM

Ouch. Agreed.

Vech (Benchmark) is up-state near Starkville and I'm not up that much on Ms wrenches.

I''ve thought about tapping the main bearing pin hole and substituting a loctited setscrew for that pesky pin. I've got a timing chain replacement coming up later this Spring and I ma considering going a little further and pulling the front main bearing cap for a peek at the pin.

supershaft · 03-31-2012, 09:09 PM

Robtg does that and it has some tricks to it. I have never tried my idea and it would take doing it to a lot of bikes to know if it would work real good for sure but I think it might be better than a set screw??? My idea is to put it in there and press some JB weld on over the top of the pin instead of peening it and then letting it cure over night before you put it in. Maybe a peen AND JB weld?

I have a set screw in my bike that robtg did but man you do have to mind your P's and Q's while you are setting it up! I have peened a handful. The whole situation is a bit touchy IMO. I might be wrong but I think you can crack the bearing web during peening. Those bearing webs do crack! Make sure and look it over real good! After you take it out and before you put it back in!

bgoodsoil · 03-31-2012, 09:31 PM

I lost that pin once. It cost me an engine.

The oil starvation toasted the left rod bearing, the shells were half as thick as new bearings, and the crank had grooves in it. I had been crushing oil filters for a little while and had no idea what caused it. I blamed it on the cheap Hi-Flo filters I had. If your filter looks like this then your main bearing has spun. STOP RIDING THE BIKE!

ritetwist · 03-31-2012, 09:38 PM

This is all news to me.I only found out about the pin a couple of months ago.(Just after I replaced the camshaft on
the r80) Should I have looked to it? What would be the indicators of a lost pin, other than in the oil pan? If the main
brg. does move, loss of oil to heads ? Would there be any warning ? That could be a tough find if your top end started chattering 1000 km. from home.Preventative help ?.Tks.

bgoodsoil · 03-31-2012, 09:48 PM

Like I said, check your oil filter to see if it's crushed. I started hearing a clattering noise on my left side and thought my valves were going. I swapped in new heads and still heard it. After I seriously lost power I pulled the cylinders and found that the left rod rattled on the crank. The right rod bearing was perfectly fine. The noise I heard from the left side was probably the piston slapping the edge of the head. A new bottom end cost me $300 and I swapped the cylinders/pistons/heads onto the new block without any problems. This'll take you some work, but I don't think it'll cost you a ton of money. Unless you pay somebody else to do it. Then it'll cost a fortune.

ritetwist · 03-31-2012, 10:00 PM

Thanks for the tip,especially the filter, I wouldn't have had a clue.
Hope I never hear the noise,whatever it is, I know it won't be good.

hardwaregrrl · 03-31-2012, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbounds

thanks for posting so quick . I downloaded flickr ,now what do i do to get photo from flickr to this site? i don't see an icon that asks for attachments .Yes i am very limited with computer skills

Copy and paste the img code here.

Bill Harris · 04-01-2012, 03:03 AM

Yep, [img] httpp://flicker-url.com/tada/tada/imagename.jpg [/img]" right here in the message.

The image in Hdwrgrl's post was:

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...l/9edeaa73.jpg

all wrapped in [img].[/img] tags.

Quote:

That could be a tough find if your top end started chattering 1000 km. from home.Preventative help ?.Tks.

No warning. The pin goes, the main bearing shell shifts, you lose oil pressure to the other bearings. First sound is a bearing death-rattle, transitioning to a cha-ching during the repair.

A PITA to check since it involves removing the front main bearing carrier, but the collateral damage is much less.

Madman1 · 04-01-2012, 03:57 AM

Parts end up in oil pan on a 95 airhead. I have a 95 RT that I thought was bulletproof!
Hans

tbounds · 04-01-2012, 05:16 AM

Now it appears it is a main bearing race keeper on crankshaft correct? Does this repair require pulling engine from bike ,therefore rear wheel ,drive shaft,trans or can it be repaired from front while still mounted on bike? I live in south Ms , Vech has worked on a couple of slash 2's for me ,but last i talked to him he would not work on newer bikes.Any suggestion for a good wrench , i have used Heberts BMW in Baton Rouge for parts and newer BMW's in the past.I have min. mechanical skills ,bike lift, tools etc. I can do my own maintenance and the basics not sure about this , i hear about lots of things that can go wrong.
The bike has 43,000 miles would you suggest any other work be done while this is being fixed?
thanks to all of you in advance

bmwrench · 04-01-2012, 05:40 AM

The front bearing can be removed while the engine is in the frame. It's one of those fiddly repairs, so I prefer to pull the motor. I'd pull the cylinders and check the rod bearings before making a decision on pulling the motor.

When the pin falls out, a huge internal oil leak is created, drastically reducing oil pressure.

I haven't used the pin to locate the front main in years. I use a 5mm socket-head bolt, grinding it square where it meets the crankshaft and locking it with Loctite 272 (red threadlocker).

tbounds · 04-01-2012, 05:45 AM

this really sounds like it might be over my head . I have found it winds up costing more to fix my screw ups than it would to have it fixed right the first time by an experienced mechanic

AliBaba · 04-01-2012, 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbounds

Now it appears it is a main bearing race keeper on crankshaft correct? Does this repair require pulling engine from bike ,therefore rear wheel ,drive shaft,trans or can it be repaired from front while still mounted on bike? I live in south Ms , Vech has worked on a couple of slash 2's for me ,but last i talked to him he would not work on newer bikes.Any suggestion for a good wrench , i have used Heberts BMW in Baton Rouge for parts and newer BMW's in the past.I have min. mechanical skills ,bike lift, tools etc. I can do my own maintenance and the basics not sure about this , i hear about lots of things that can go wrong.
The bike has 43,000 miles would you suggest any other work be done while this is being fixed?
thanks to all of you in advance

There is no need to remove the engine.
It might be possible to only remove the front of the engine but it would require a lot of luck and skill. IMHO the best would be to remove gearbox, cylinders and crank. You can then inspect all the vital parts.

I also found this pin in my sump when my bike was pretty new. I throw it away and didn't get any problems the first 150kkm.

03-31-2012, 07:29 PM	#16
elite-less As above, so below Joined: Dec 2009 Location: The Puget Sound Convergence Zone Oddometer: 489	[/QUOTE] Hmmmm...... Supershaft was on the mark, It looks like the locating pin to the front main bearing to me. I just installed one last month. If that's the case.... you'll need to pull the front bearing carrier to inspect. Hopefully, you can set/peen in a new pin, but if the bearing has moved or spun.... that's a different story. . __________________ Slash 5 Revive

03-31-2012, 08:49 PM	#18
Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2008 Location: backwoods Alabama Oddometer: 3,883	Ouch. Agreed. Vech (Benchmark) is up-state near Starkville and I'm not up that much on Ms wrenches. I''ve thought about tapping the main bearing pin hole and substituting a loctited setscrew for that pesky pin. I've got a timing chain replacement coming up later this Spring and I ma considering going a little further and pulling the front main bearing cap for a peek at the pin. __________________ '73 R60/5 Toaster

03-31-2012, 09:31 PM	#20
bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid Joined: Jul 2008 Location: Atlanta, GA, USA Oddometer: 3,787	I lost that pin once. It cost me an engine. The oil starvation toasted the left rod bearing, the shells were half as thick as new bearings, and the crank had grooves in it. I had been crushing oil filters for a little while and had no idea what caused it. I blamed it on the cheap Hi-Flo filters I had. If your filter looks like this then your main bearing has spun. STOP RIDING THE BIKE! __________________ '85 BMW r80G/S--Another G/S on the road--Central America on a Shoestring--Nova Scotia on a Shoestring Proud SmugMug User Support ADV: Don't give those cheap bums your discount code

03-31-2012, 09:38 PM	#21
ritetwist Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2011 Location: North AB, CDA Oddometer: 119	This is all news to me.I only found out about the pin a couple of months ago.(Just after I replaced the camshaft on the r80) Should I have looked to it? What would be the indicators of a lost pin, other than in the oil pan? If the main brg. does move, loss of oil to heads ? Would there be any warning ? That could be a tough find if your top end started chattering 1000 km. from home.Preventative help ?.Tks. __________________ Afraid to sleep for fear of missing something.

03-31-2012, 09:48 PM	#22
bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid Joined: Jul 2008 Location: Atlanta, GA, USA Oddometer: 3,787	Like I said, check your oil filter to see if it's crushed. I started hearing a clattering noise on my left side and thought my valves were going. I swapped in new heads and still heard it. After I seriously lost power I pulled the cylinders and found that the left rod rattled on the crank. The right rod bearing was perfectly fine. The noise I heard from the left side was probably the piston slapping the edge of the head. A new bottom end cost me $300 and I swapped the cylinders/pistons/heads onto the new block without any problems. This'll take you some work, but I don't think it'll cost you a ton of money. Unless you pay somebody else to do it. Then it'll cost a fortune. __________________ '85 BMW r80G/S--Another G/S on the road--Central America on a Shoestring--Nova Scotia on a Shoestring Proud SmugMug User Support ADV: Don't give those cheap bums your discount code

03-31-2012, 09:09 PM	#19
supershaft because I can Joined: Sep 2010 Location: San Francisco Bay area Oddometer: 6,070	Robtg does that and it has some tricks to it. I have never tried my idea and it would take doing it to a lot of bikes to know if it would work real good for sure but I think it might be better than a set screw??? My idea is to put it in there and press some JB weld on over the top of the pin instead of peening it and then letting it cure over night before you put it in. Maybe a peen AND JB weld? I have a set screw in my bike that robtg did but man you do have to mind your P's and Q's while you are setting it up! I have peened a handful. The whole situation is a bit touchy IMO. I might be wrong but I think you can crack the bearing web during peening. Those bearing webs do crack! Make sure and look it over real good! After you take it out and before you put it back in!

03-31-2012, 10:00 PM	#23
ritetwist Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2011 Location: North AB, CDA Oddometer: 119	Thanks for the tip,especially the filter, I wouldn't have had a clue. Hope I never hear the noise,whatever it is, I know it won't be good. __________________ Afraid to sleep for fear of missing something.

04-01-2012, 03:57 AM	#26
Madman1 Adventurer Joined: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Oddometer: 70	Parts end up in oil pan on a 95 airhead. I have a 95 RT that I thought was bulletproof! Hans

04-01-2012, 05:16 AM	#27
tbounds ^OP Adventurer Joined: Nov 2008 Location: Ellisville ,Ms Oddometer: 55	replacing needle bearing Now it appears it is a main bearing race keeper on crankshaft correct? Does this repair require pulling engine from bike ,therefore rear wheel ,drive shaft,trans or can it be repaired from front while still mounted on bike? I live in south Ms , Vech has worked on a couple of slash 2's for me ,but last i talked to him he would not work on newer bikes.Any suggestion for a good wrench , i have used Heberts BMW in Baton Rouge for parts and newer BMW's in the past.I have min. mechanical skills ,bike lift, tools etc. I can do my own maintenance and the basics not sure about this , i hear about lots of things that can go wrong. The bike has 43,000 miles would you suggest any other work be done while this is being fixed? thanks to all of you in advance

04-01-2012, 05:40 AM	#28
bmwrench Beastly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2006 Oddometer: 1,462	The front bearing can be removed while the engine is in the frame. It's one of those fiddly repairs, so I prefer to pull the motor. I'd pull the cylinders and check the rod bearings before making a decision on pulling the motor. When the pin falls out, a huge internal oil leak is created, drastically reducing oil pressure. I haven't used the pin to locate the front main in years. I use a 5mm socket-head bolt, grinding it square where it meets the crankshaft and locking it with Loctite 272 (red threadlocker).

04-01-2012, 05:45 AM	#29
tbounds ^OP Adventurer Joined: Nov 2008 Location: Ellisville ,Ms Oddometer: 55	this really sounds like it might be over my head . I have found it winds up costing more to fix my screw ups than it would to have it fixed right the first time by an experienced mechanic

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