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Old 03-31-2012, 08:29 PM   #16
elite-less
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[/QUOTE]


Hmmmm...... Supershaft was on the mark, It looks like the locating pin to the front main bearing to me. I just installed one last month.

If that's the case.... you'll need to pull the front bearing carrier to inspect. Hopefully, you can set/peen in a new pin, but if the bearing has moved or spun.... that's a different story.

.
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
Oh no. That sounds like the front main bearing locating pin.
There you have it.

better to discover it this way, tbounds.
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:49 PM   #18
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Ouch. Agreed.

Vech (Benchmark) is up-state near Starkville and I'm not up that much on Ms wrenches.

I''ve thought about tapping the main bearing pin hole and substituting a loctited setscrew for that pesky pin. I've got a timing chain replacement coming up later this Spring and I ma considering going a little further and pulling the front main bearing cap for a peek at the pin.
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:09 PM   #19
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Robtg does that and it has some tricks to it. I have never tried my idea and it would take doing it to a lot of bikes to know if it would work real good for sure but I think it might be better than a set screw??? My idea is to put it in there and press some JB weld on over the top of the pin instead of peening it and then letting it cure over night before you put it in. Maybe a peen AND JB weld?

I have a set screw in my bike that robtg did but man you do have to mind your P's and Q's while you are setting it up! I have peened a handful. The whole situation is a bit touchy IMO. I might be wrong but I think you can crack the bearing web during peening. Those bearing webs do crack! Make sure and look it over real good! After you take it out and before you put it back in!
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:31 PM   #20
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I lost that pin once. It cost me an engine.





The oil starvation toasted the left rod bearing, the shells were half as thick as new bearings, and the crank had grooves in it. I had been crushing oil filters for a little while and had no idea what caused it. I blamed it on the cheap Hi-Flo filters I had. If your filter looks like this then your main bearing has spun. STOP RIDING THE BIKE!

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Old 03-31-2012, 10:38 PM   #21
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This is all news to me.I only found out about the pin a couple of months ago.(Just after I replaced the camshaft on
the r80) Should I have looked to it? What would be the indicators of a lost pin, other than in the oil pan? If the main
brg. does move, loss of oil to heads ? Would there be any warning ? That could be a tough find if your top end started chattering 1000 km. from home.Preventative help ?.Tks.
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:48 PM   #22
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Like I said, check your oil filter to see if it's crushed. I started hearing a clattering noise on my left side and thought my valves were going. I swapped in new heads and still heard it. After I seriously lost power I pulled the cylinders and found that the left rod rattled on the crank. The right rod bearing was perfectly fine. The noise I heard from the left side was probably the piston slapping the edge of the head. A new bottom end cost me $300 and I swapped the cylinders/pistons/heads onto the new block without any problems. This'll take you some work, but I don't think it'll cost you a ton of money. Unless you pay somebody else to do it. Then it'll cost a fortune.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:00 PM   #23
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Thanks for the tip,especially the filter, I wouldn't have had a clue.
Hope I never hear the noise,whatever it is, I know it won't be good.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbounds View Post
thanks for posting so quick . I downloaded flickr ,now what do i do to get photo from flickr to this site? i don't see an icon that asks for attachments .Yes i am very limited with computer skills
Copy and paste the img code here.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:03 AM   #25
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Yep, [img] httpp://flicker-url.com/tada/tada/imagename.jpg [/img]" right here in the message.

The image in Hdwrgrl's post was:

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...l/9edeaa73.jpg

all wrapped in [img].[/img] tags.

Quote:
That could be a tough find if your top end started chattering 1000 km. from home.Preventative help ?.Tks.
No warning. The pin goes, the main bearing shell shifts, you lose oil pressure to the other bearings. First sound is a bearing death-rattle, transitioning to a cha-ching during the repair.

A PITA to check since it involves removing the front main bearing carrier, but the collateral damage is much less.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:57 AM   #26
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Parts end up in oil pan on a 95 airhead. I have a 95 RT that I thought was bulletproof!
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:16 AM   #27
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replacing needle bearing

Now it appears it is a main bearing race keeper on crankshaft correct? Does this repair require pulling engine from bike ,therefore rear wheel ,drive shaft,trans or can it be repaired from front while still mounted on bike? I live in south Ms , Vech has worked on a couple of slash 2's for me ,but last i talked to him he would not work on newer bikes.Any suggestion for a good wrench , i have used Heberts BMW in Baton Rouge for parts and newer BMW's in the past.I have min. mechanical skills ,bike lift, tools etc. I can do my own maintenance and the basics not sure about this , i hear about lots of things that can go wrong.
The bike has 43,000 miles would you suggest any other work be done while this is being fixed?
thanks to all of you in advance
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:40 AM   #28
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The front bearing can be removed while the engine is in the frame. It's one of those fiddly repairs, so I prefer to pull the motor. I'd pull the cylinders and check the rod bearings before making a decision on pulling the motor.

When the pin falls out, a huge internal oil leak is created, drastically reducing oil pressure.

I haven't used the pin to locate the front main in years. I use a 5mm socket-head bolt, grinding it square where it meets the crankshaft and locking it with Loctite 272 (red threadlocker).
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:45 AM   #29
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this really sounds like it might be over my head . I have found it winds up costing more to fix my screw ups than it would to have it fixed right the first time by an experienced mechanic
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:46 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbounds View Post
Now it appears it is a main bearing race keeper on crankshaft correct? Does this repair require pulling engine from bike ,therefore rear wheel ,drive shaft,trans or can it be repaired from front while still mounted on bike? I live in south Ms , Vech has worked on a couple of slash 2's for me ,but last i talked to him he would not work on newer bikes.Any suggestion for a good wrench , i have used Heberts BMW in Baton Rouge for parts and newer BMW's in the past.I have min. mechanical skills ,bike lift, tools etc. I can do my own maintenance and the basics not sure about this , i hear about lots of things that can go wrong.
The bike has 43,000 miles would you suggest any other work be done while this is being fixed?
thanks to all of you in advance
There is no need to remove the engine.
It might be possible to only remove the front of the engine but it would require a lot of luck and skill. IMHO the best would be to remove gearbox, cylinders and crank. You can then inspect all the vital parts.

I also found this pin in my sump when my bike was pretty new. I throw it away and didn't get any problems the first 150kkm.
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