Tiger Tales - Dialling in the 800XC for the dirt

[Mercury264]

Originally Posted by Rob Dirt

You should be able to connect the two wires together. I did this on other bikes but not my tiger. I was told it would be okay to do the kickstand safety switch if you had to get out of the woods but do not do the clutch safety switch. The clutch safety switch controls all kind of ECU stuff.

I broke my sidestand switch on a ride a while ago and I removed it and (IIRC) connected the 2 wires together, taped it up and zip tied it out the way. Not had an issue with fault code etc. since.

[Rob Dirt]

That's good to know, I'll get rid of mine soon as the warranty runs out.

[Burren Rider]

Originally Posted by choccoloco

Howdy Danny

That's good news, 34L sounds like a good number, I wonder if more could have worked. Where did you see the photo's.... Didn't see it on their site & canoeguy was only interested in his KLR tanks to take photo's of the XC...

Sorry, I have somehow missed some posts here.

I saw the photo's via Triumph Australia. I think they supplied the template bike and have been working with Safari Tanks to get a tank in the works. They were hoping it would be right to go by the end of the month but it looks like it might be a bit later?

34Ltrs sounds good to me and to be honest, Safari tends to underquote their sizes (my 17Ltr trail tank for the DRZ actually holds 21) so it could well hold 36 by the time it comes out. 32 - 34 would be plenty for me though.

Cheers,

Danny

[Burren Rider]

Originally Posted by internalcombust

Great vids and thanks for sharing. Two questions. Are you running stock gearing on your tiger, and what tires have you had the best luck with?

I am running a 15T countershaft sprocket and I find it beneficial in the dirt. You definately use the clutch a lot less in the really tight stuff.

I have been running a Dunlop MX71 Front (90/100-21) and a Mitas E-09 Dakar rear (140/80-17) but I am looking to try a D606 front this week as the MX71's are just chewing out too fast. They work brilliantly on the dirt and are quite respectable on the road for a full knobby but I find the knobs are scalloping out really quickly. I figure the 606 is still fairly dirt orientated (I have run them on DR650's in the past) but with a bit of luck it will hold it's profile a bit better. Time will tell I guess?

[Burren Rider]

Originally Posted by av_mech

Nice photo, looks like you were getting along pretty well in the video too. Dunes look like they were perfect for roosting around on.

[Burren Rider]

Originally Posted by Rob Dirt

FYI, check your spokes. I spooned on a new front & found some loose spokes again. The first time I checked was early on when I had some bounce around 35-40mph. I torqed all of my spokes & installed dyna beads. This time I just checked because I had the rim off. I'm always jumping curbs & hitting roots/rocks harder than I should.

G'Day Rob,

Mine tends to bounce a bit in the front and I had put it down to running a full knobby on the road (it gets worse as the side knobs wear unevenly). I hadn't heard of Dyna Beads so I looked them up, do they still work Ok in a tube type tyre (I assume your bike still runs tubes or have you converted them somehow)?

Cheers,

Danny

[Burren Rider]

Originally Posted by The Breeze

Burren,

I have Safari tanks on two of my bikes, and love them. They offer great crash/drop protection too!! Plan to get one for my 800XC, when available.

My question is.....

Do you think (from your look at the pictures) the new Safari tank will interfere with the SWMototech crash bars??? My guess is, is that it will, and the tank will probably create radiator protection. Since I'm about to pull the trigger on crash bars, maybe I'll wait to see the Safari in the flesh (or just go with the Triumph crash bars for now).

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated

Looking at the mould pictures, I was fairly confident the Safari tank would be fine with the SW Motech engine bars. The Safari tank looks to use the space occupied by the top plastic shrouds (keeping the lower ones that run either side of the radiator) and as a result I don't think it will be significantly wider in that area than the standard profile. I guess it could change prior to production though?

Hope this helps.

[Bert the tigger]

Originally Posted by Burren Rider

Looking at the mould pictures, I was fairly confident the Safari tank would be fine with the SW Motech engine bars. The Safari tank looks to use the space occupied by the top plastic shrouds (keeping the lower ones that run either side of the radiator) and as a result I don't think it will be significantly wider in that area than the standard profile. I guess it could change prior to production though?

Hope this helps.

Pictures ?

[Rob Dirt]

Originally Posted by Burren Rider

G'Day Rob,

Mine tends to bounce a bit in the front and I had put it down to running a full knobby on the road (it gets worse as the side knobs wear unevenly). I hadn't heard of Dyna Beads so I looked them up, do they still work Ok in a tube type tyre (I assume your bike still runs tubes or have you converted them somehow)?

Cheers,

Danny

Absolutely. I've been extremely happy with dyna beads in my tubes. I'm only using them in the front of the Tiger. Just make sure you remove any weights on the rim.

[fullmonte]

Originally Posted by Burren Rider

I hadn't heard of Dyna Beads so I looked them up, do they still work Ok in a tube type tyre (I assume your bike still runs tubes or have you converted them somehow)?

I used them in my DR650 for about ten thousand miles. One day while airing down for the dirt, the rear valve stem stuck open and let out all of the air. I was able to borrow a sealed cap and finish out the ride. After getting home, I discovered upon closer inspection that one of the Dyna Beads got stuck in the valve stem, keeping it open. My advice is that for tubed tires that get aired up/down on a regular basis, be careful. Other than that they worked very well. Not running them in my XC due to this experience and the fact I air down on most rides. YMMV.

[Rob Dirt]

All you need to do is make sure the valve is between 9 o'clock & 3 o'clock when you air up or down. I've never had an issue with dyna beads.

[The Breeze]

Originally Posted by Burren Rider

Looking at the mould pictures, I was fairly confident the Safari tank would be fine with the SW Motech engine bars. The Safari tank looks to use the space occupied by the top plastic shrouds (keeping the lower ones that run either side of the radiator) and as a result I don't think it will be significantly wider in that area than the standard profile. I guess it could change prior to production though?

Hope this helps.

Thanks Burren,

I've got an email into Safari as well. I'll post up a response upon receipt from Safari.

The Breeze

[advtenn]

Originally Posted by Burren Rider

I am running a 15T countershaft sprocket and I find it beneficial in the dirt. You definately use the clutch a lot less in the really tight stuff.

Can the 15T be installed without removing a link from the stock chain?

[blacktiger]

Originally Posted by advtenn

Can the 15T be installed without removing a link from the stock chain?

To answer that take a look at how far back your chain adjusters are. Mine are quite a way back already so I'd probably have to remove a link. YMMV.

[advtenn]

Originally Posted by blacktiger

To answer that take a look at how far back your chain adjusters are. Mine are quite a way back already so I'd probably have to remove a link. YMMV.

Mine is quite far back also. I have compared to other new bikes and this seems to be the norm.
I'd like to have the option to change back to 16T for long HWY runs.