800GS shock bolt design flaw?

[HighTechCoonass]

BMW stock shock INDY KIT install.... great idea to drill out the rubber ....I should have read first..... I used the socket method... It was a bitch... (finding the right pitch threads and bolt around my shop was a impossible). got the rubber out and the inner steel core....the inner ring is still in...shit.... I think I will take the hack saw out tommorow morning and very carefully cut it out...
on a scale of 1 to 10 diffculty is a 8 for me not having the correct tools.

Originally Posted by lawe

The post about the homemade puller was great insipration, but it was not that easy to do it like that...

I ended up taking the busing apart in place by removing the inner part first and then cutting the outer part with a hack saw to remove it. Removing the inner part is quite easy. Just drill a lot of small holes through the rubber and take it out using the homemade puller and at the end a monkey wrench.

The outer part of the busher is the tricky one. I used the hack saw carefully to cut it into two pieces. I ended up with some small scratches from the hack saw inside the holder for the bushing, but I don't care to much about that.

[Indy Unlimited]

I use a spark plug type 13/16" deep socket ( 27mm O.D.) to press out the entire bushing. Do not use a hacksaw. You should use a press and push it into a socket that is just push it into another socket of 1-1/16" or 27mm - 12 point style

[HighTechCoonass]

Thanks for the advice... I will try again INDY. 1" on one side and a 13/16" on the other? I definitely don't want to scar the surface.... 28mm od...my fricken mic is at the office...

Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited

I use a 1-13/16" deep socket to press out the entire bushing. Do not use a hacksaw. You should use a press and push it out with a socket that is just under 28mm O.D.

[Indy Unlimited]

1' or 1-1/16" - 12 point style deep socket to receive and 13/16" deep socket to press thru.

[HighTechCoonass]

Nope it did not work.... the 13/16 caused the inner race to mushroom.... and the nuts a bolt began to strip ( 4' cheater pipe) 3/4 wrenches.
It is very difficult to keep the sockets centered while tightening...



Took out the hack saw and cut two slices into the race....not going thru just enough to weaken.... then knocked it out with a screw driver.

Done... for a one man job difficulty 8 out of 10.


It would be worth and extra $30 to have a "removal" setup...
A fine threaded bolt, nut and washers
two properly sized pieces of pipe (substitute for the sockets)

Originally Posted by HighTechCoonass

Thanks for the advice... I will try again INDY. 1" on one side and a 13/16" on the other? I definitely don't want to scar the surface.... 28mm od...my fricken mic is at the office...

[Indy Unlimited]

Sorry it did not work. I have done about a dozen of them with a deep 13/16" socket that is 27mm O.D. and they all press out. The rubber from the inner bushing may have helped but I have done many on my press. I highly recommend a press to do a stock shock. Aftermarket shocks can be done with hand tools. Most bike shops can help you if you bring the shock in and ask them to press it out with a 13/16" socket

[HighTechCoonass]

yeap... If i wouldnt have pushed out the rubber bushing on "phase one" it would have been easier to keep everything aligned...

It is a very nice unit Indy... I can rest easy now... I was always worried about that stinking bolt... especially since I am now out of warranty!
Ready for Utah now!!!

Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited

Sorry it did not work. I have done about a dozen of them with a deep 13/16" socket that is 27mm O.D. and they all press out. The rubber from the inner bushing may have helped but I have done many on my press. I highly recommend a press to do a stock shock. Aftermarket shocks can be done with hand tools. Most bike shops can help you if you bring the shock in and ask them to press it out with a 13/16" socket

[stephen.stallebrass]

Fitted my Indy kit & Ohlins shock today... It really was easy! I used the socket trick to get the Indy race bearing into the upper shock mount and then swapped out the old shock for the new one. Not taken it out yet as I twisted my bloody ankle in the garden afterwards, which is throbbing, plus I need to set the sag, preload & rebound? That'll have to wait until 2mora. Thanks for all the great advice on this thread. I was gonna take some pictures as a tutorial, but there really is no need, it's so easy.

[johngil]

I left the Elka lip and ran slightly off center. Zero problems.

[Indy Unlimited]

Thanks John,

I prefer that we use a wider bearing but for those that don't want to remove the step but want to look centered I have a narrower bearing option that is the same width as the spherical bearings the aftermarket companies use.

[skamikazee]

Here's my EVIL-BUSHER-EXORCISM setup:



Why oh why didn't i read the whole topic before spending the whole morning trying to remove the damn thing.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by skamikazee

Here's my EVIL-BUSHER-EXORCISM setup:



Why oh why didn't i read the whole topic before spending the whole morning trying to remove the damn thing.

.......

Erling

[Indy Unlimited]

I dont recommend that technique on a stock shock. You need a 1- 13/16" deep socket or a metal cylinder that is 27 diameter or larger but smaller than 28 mm diameter and a receiving deep socket that has room for a 28 mm diameter bushing to fit in it. You will need to use a hydraulic press and at least 1 ton (1000 kg) of force to get it to budge.

Sorry if that was not clear in earlier posts. Aftermarket shocks are a breeze.

[skamikazee]

Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited

I dont recommend that technique on a stock shock. You need a 13/16" deep socket or a metal cylinder that is 27 diameter or larger but smaller than 28 mm diameter and a receiving deep socket that has room for a 28 mm diameter bushing to fit in it. You will need to use a hydraulic press and at least 1 ton (1000 kg) of force to get it to budge.

Sorry if that was not clear in earlier posts. Aftermarket shocks are a breeze.

It did work for me, the 30mm Socket is large enough to allow the bushing to slide inside without touching the socket, the stock spacer and screw are just the right size to pull the damn thing with a large thick washer to push the thing, once halfway through, a 27mm deep socket and a hammer slowly got it out.
It wasn't easy, but it worked. Still, if only i'd spend less time looking at pretty pictures and more time reading the threads........
....I would definitely taken the shock out and ask someone to press it out.
...great workout though

[Snowy]

With the Ohlins shock pressing the bearing out was the easiest part of the operation. The rest was not difficult.

I went with Indys kit and the Ralle Moto brace combo as per JohnGil.

Using it for 2 up trail and dirt road riding I have just installed the 3rd new rear spring. It now has the same as the picture above with the 84/200. I think this is around the 21kg/mm mark.

It works the best yet. With a revalve it doesn't bottom out like it did previously. It takes a fair hit to bottom now, even with a big load on. I would rate the current rear end set up as as close as I could hope to get considering the lack of adjustability with the Ohlins.

The bottoming is what was doing the majority of the damage to the shock bolts.

So, in Aus dollars, that's $1460 for the shock, and a further $800 in rebuilds and springs, plus another $250 in shock bolts and kits to fix shock bolts.

Ohlins here appears to have no idea whatsoever about what spring rates to use. I was very specific about what I was going to use it for and the exact weights it would carry. Their recommended spring was some 5kg/mm lighter than what I ended up with.


I didn't use the O-rings that came with the Indy kit. I made some alloy spacers and used a smaller section O-ring with the alloy spacers. I'll post some pics for Indy when I can. In appreciation for a solution that works.