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Old 04-07-2012, 04:23 PM   #62566
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nibis View Post
I sent my seat off to seat concepts, can't wait to get it back. I've got a 500 mile DS ride on 5/5 -5/6, that should be a good test.
I got mine last week,will see how it goes against the Corbin.
The service from Seat Concepts would be hard to beat.

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Old 04-07-2012, 04:34 PM   #62567
zdiver1
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Thumb Thor 50/50

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
I have wanted to get some riding boots for years but have very wide calfs. Any company make a good boot with room for wide calfs at the top?
I really like mine. http://www.atv.com/products/thor-505...view-1451.html

PC- write up-
The 50/50 boot was designed and developed to provide just the right amount of coverage for situations that don't demand the extensive coverage of a standard MX boot. This is a great boot for dual-sport riding. It is the perfect blend of athletic shoe comfort and fit, and the rugged durability and coverage of an MX boot. Every detail has been refined to deliver the lightest, most comfortable, yet durable boot on the market. Weighing in at just 27 ounces the 50/50 boot is less than half the weight of standard MX boots yet tough as nails. And the comfort level is amazing.
  • Light weight injection molded outsole with aggressive lug pattern
  • Reinforced medial area with padding for comfort against the frame
  • Contoured gaitor for increased mobility and comfort
  • Adjustable positive-lock aluminum alloy buckles
  • Integrated toe cap/shift protector

zdiver1 screwed with this post 04-07-2012 at 05:06 PM
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:37 PM   #62568
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carcajou View Post
KLRs are fine bikes. I bought the DR over the KLR because I wanted a more dirt oriented machine than the KLR. KLR is 70/30 seventy percent road/30 percent off road. The DR does not have a radiator with its associated waterpump, hoses etc. to break. The KLR is heavier by about a hundred pounds. I did not want the big fairing that the KLR has. And the DR IMHO is prettier. Each rider has to decide on a machine based on its intended use. Are you going to ride more on road or off road? Will the height of the DR or KLR bother you? Let me end this section with saying both are good simple machines that will give the rider years of fun. The DR is a compromise between an road bike and off road machine. It does both adequately, but not as well as a dedicated road bike does on the road, or a dirt bike does off the tarmac. I love my DR, she does what I want her to.
A couple of things to consider about the year model to buy. Another inmate has already mentioned the 2003s having the metal base gasket between the top of the engine and bottom of the engine. The paper gasket is known to leak. If you do not want to mess with that buy an 03 or later. I read somewhere that some of the 03s had the paper gasket too. As another inmate said there is a little metal tab that sticks out that is the clue that it has the metal gasket. Another concern is 3rd gear bombing with some of the machines. This is a rare happening, but from what I have read, it happens enough to be concerned about. When 3rd gear goes, it often causes serious case damage and the cases are not cheap. Suzuki redesigned the gear system for the 06 models and again for the 08 models. So this may be a factor in the year model you purchase. It made a difference to me so I bought the 09 model. Well I have rambled on enough. Good luck in your quest for a dual sport. They are really fun. Roger
a few comments. i wanted a motard-style bike; wirtually 100% street. i went w/a dr650 because i wanted lighter weight and simplicity and low cost. w/proper mods - suspension/exhaust/new carb, (and for me, motard wheels/tires) - it is a killer street bike, imo. comfortable up to 80mph on the highway w/stock gearing, if that is your pleasure. and, plenty of power w/the upgraded carb & exhaust.

re: issues, i would recommend the best-condition, least expensive bike you can find, perhaps w/mods that you are awreddy interested in; any year from '96 on up. i understand there was a starter gear issue that needs to be addressed on the 98/99 iterations, that costs ~$200? i wouldn't worry about the base gasket thing; many pre-'03 bikes never seem to be afflicted, and i understand it's only a minor issue if it starts to seep, and not that huge a deal to repair if you want to get rid of the seepage.

re: 3rd gear blow-ups, all years are afflicted, even tho the numbers are small, regardless of whatever "changes" were made in '06 & '08. they were certainly not upgrades or redesigns; likely yust another supplier w/a slightly different casting mold. only the 2000 models have no reports of blow-ups, but i suspect this is a coincidence more than anything else. and, there will soon be awailable stronger 3rd gear sets, made from billet, perhaps cryo'd and shot-peened - check the dr650 3rd gear blow up thread. i wouldn't be too concerned anyway - we're talking about a fraction of a percent of bikes that had this happen...

ymmv,

doug s.
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:02 PM   #62569
Load Clear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
They'll set you back about $400, but I've read good things about the HT SL racks and Mojave bags for a neat, no-fuss set up:

http://www.happy-trail.com/Mojave-So...Bags-Pair.aspx

More here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=758746

Sarah
Thanks Sarah & Trophy. All look like good bags, gonna check them out. Hit a couple dealers today. Only one had a bike. He wouldn't move off $6k (there are setup or freight fees). I hate to pay that much but if I buy used I need to pay cash for the bike and still come up with a couple three grand for commuting gear. The other dealer was about $270 cheaper but no bike until May.

Anyone see better prices out there? Thanks for everyone's help. Its pretty difficult sifting through 4,000 pages...

LC
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:05 PM   #62570
AST236
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New shoes........

Michelin Anakee 2's on my '98.....Put a hundred miles on them today and like them a lot. Smooth, quiet and not bad on dirt roads.


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Old 04-07-2012, 05:53 PM   #62571
zdiver1
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Talking Looking good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AST236 View Post
Michelin Anakee 2's on my '98.....Put a hundred miles on them today and like them a lot. Smooth, quiet and not bad on dirt roads.


Is that a 120 or 130 it looks like a 120 rear It takes about a hundred miles to get the tire gripping.
I still have the stock deathwings on and I have to say the DWs are not that bad, I have a set of 705s waiting to be spooned on when the time comes I have the 705- 130/80-17 rear 90/90-21 front from PC and paid $125 for the set hard to beat!
have fun with the new shoes I bet when you go into the garage you smell the new rubber.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:07 PM   #62572
Mr. Thumpy
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New 2012.

Thanks carcajou, and doug s,
Beaverton Suzy in Beaverton, OR. will sell me one for $5699.99 plus T & Lic. Right now in Spokane, WA. I'm looking at $6075.00 plus T & Lic. or just under $6600.00 out the door. Just have to wait here in Spokane for 2 weeks for the new order of bikes to come in............ I do like to help keep the local guys doors open, plus I hope the service dept. will get my bike done first when they need to work on three bikes and my bike id the local one!!! VM.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:16 PM   #62573
AST236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
Is that a 120 or 130 it looks like a 120 rear It takes about a hundred miles to get the tire gripping.
I still have the stock deathwings on and I have to say the DWs are not that bad, I have a set of 705s waiting to be spooned on when the time comes I have the 705- 130/80-17 rear 90/90-21 front from PC and paid $125 for the set hard to beat!
have fun with the new shoes I bet when you go into the garage you smell the new rubber.
That's the 130/80-17 on the back and the 90/90-21 on the front. I was about to buy a set of 705's and ran across these. Bought them from an inmate for $180 delivered to my door. They are brand new, with the stickers on them when they arrived. They are about $250 for the set from Bike Bandit, so it seemed like a pretty good deal.

Post up the 705's when you get them on and let us know how they are working out. They look like a great deal...
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:31 PM   #62574
zdiver1
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Talking New is good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Thumpy View Post
Thanks carcajou, and doug s,
Beaverton Suzy in Beaverton, OR. will sell me one for $5699.99 plus T & Lic. Right now in Spokane, WA. I'm looking at $6075.00 plus T & Lic. or just under $6600.00 out the door. Just have to wait here in Spokane for 2 weeks for the new order of bikes to come in............ I do like to help keep the local guys doors open, plus I hope the service dept. will get my bike done first when they need to work on three bikes and my bike id the local one!!! VM.
I have never like buying used, I bought new in 2011 I got 1.9% @ 5 years and a $1,000. rebate I put $1,500. down payment is $75.a month. you will see add on fees so ask up front and when you do the final paperwork the guy will try to sale you the 3 to 5 year warranty. good luck and welcome. I have more fun doing the upgrades then riding .
If no one ever bought new we would never have used! and the dealers would close the doors.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:34 PM   #62575
zdiver1
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You did good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AST236 View Post
That's the 130/80-17 on the back and the 90/90-21 on the front. I was about to buy a set of 705's and ran across these. Bought them from an inmate for $180 delivered to my door. They are brand new, with the stickers on them when they arrived. They are about $250 for the set from Bike Bandit, so it seemed like a pretty good deal.

Post up the 705's when you get them on and let us know how they are working out. They look like a great deal...
I have just about got my bike done with upgrades I am waiting for my Acerbis 5.3 tank from PC and then it is on!
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:54 PM   #62576
zdiver1
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This is the post I am waiting for this week!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Putzy View Post
So, i just finished all the mods I wanted to do on my 2000 DR that I picked up in January. last one was exhaust, intake, and jet kit. Got a GSXR pipe, short non-titanium version, along with Jesse's mid-pipe and stock header. Have K&N filter, with top of air box removed. Got dynojet kit from jesse, and installed 160 jet. Fuel screw was about 2 turns out, which i changed to 2.25 before leaving work today as it was running a slight bit rough. 2.25 was better.

My setup before all this was stock carb with aftermarket fuel screw (not sure how many turns out it was), stock airbox and filter, stock header, unknown aftermarket slip on with integral mid-pipe.

I ran out of fuel on primary after 70 miles (with screw 2 turns out for 65 of those miles). Really surprised me as before i was getting 95-105 on primary. Switched to reserve and found nearest gas station. Filled up and it was 72 miles on 2.5 gallons, filled up to the bottom of the filler neck. Putting mileage around 29 mpg. I was getting around 40 mph before. This is pretty much all slab right now, varrying from 35 to 60 mph, commuting to work.

So i figured i would lose a bit of mileage, but not a 30% drop. Is this normal, or if not, any ideas how to improve this? I see people talking about mid to high 40s on here, so figuring something ain't right.

Thanks much.
I sent him my carb off my 2011 It has a PC jet kit and my throttle and choke cables and breather hose and filter and a fuel inline filter and clear fuel hose.
when I took it off my bike three weeks a go it was gettin around 50mpg and my new TM40 it getting 54 mpg.
can not wait to hear from him, he will get it monday!
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:13 PM   #62577
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
I have never like buying used, I bought new in 2011 I got 1.9% @ 5 years and a $1,000. rebate I put $1,500. down payment is $75.a month. you will see add on fees so ask up front and when you do the final paperwork the guy will try to sale you the 3 to 5 year warranty. good luck and welcome. I have more fun doing the upgrades then riding .
If no one ever bought new we would never have used! and the dealers would close the doors.
different strokes for different folks. thank dog there are folks who like to buy new - i have never bought a new car or bike in all my years of buying cars & bikes, and it's been quite a few years. bless all ya new-wehicle-buying folks!

if i hadn't purchased used, no way i coulda done all this for ~$4k (yust buying a new bike woulda put me $2k over what i have into my bike now):

-sm wheels/tires, (on the bike when purchased)
-used rm usd forks w/new race-tech springs,
-used rear shock rebuilt w/race-tech walves and eibach spring,
-new hid lighting in baja-designs housing,
-sst front brake line, (on the bike when purchased)
-pro-taper bars, (on the usd forks when purchased)
-vapor trail-tech speedo, (on the bike when purchased)
-used corbin seat,
-used rear rack,
-new led turn-signals,
-dr250 tail-light, (on the bike when purchased)
-used slipstreamer windshield,
-used fcr39 carb w/merge racing spring,
-520 chain/sprocket conwersion
-new k&n filter/sock, no airbox
-new fmf powerbomb hi-flow header,
-new keintech hi-flow midpipe,
-n.o.s. tsukigi titanium gsxr muffler,
-acerbis 4g tank, (on the bike when purchased)
-new yamaha r6 low fender




ymmv,

doug s.
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:23 PM   #62578
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
I just pulled the tape out and my calfs are 20 inches and when I got my boots I ask for large calf boots, most of the companys have wide sizes and larger calfs sizes dont forget the socks and pants inside the boots.
Yep ... pants, socks ... and most important: Knee pads. Your knee pads should extend down INTO the top of the boot. This will prevent a broken Tibia. Most good boots are made in Italy .... and they must use tiny Pencil Necks for models. Even my skinny calfs have trouble ... but my Sidi Crossfires are pretty adjustable. (should be for $600)
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:49 PM   #62579
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Thumpy View Post
Hello,
After reading threads on ADV. Rider for over a month now, I'm convinced that there will be a new or used Dr650se sitting in my driveway this spring. Is there any year or years that seem better than others to buy? I see the base gasket had some issue for a few years, any thing else? looking at the DR Thread, the bikes look unchanged for many years. I like that, why change things when something works? My friends want me to buy a KLR, but I like the simplicity of my old XT 500 Yammy and looks to me that the Dr650se is the one to buy for my riding.

If I buy a new 2012 model, What kind of deals are you guys getting? The MSRP is $5999.00 it looks to me. I live by Spokane, WA. is it worth the drive to say Seattle or Portland? I would pay the extra for the 5 year extended warranty. Do admit to, Not finding any used bikes here, unless I go for a KLR. Thanks for any info. VM.
Google the DR650 wiki, if you want to read about potential issues and their fixes.

I went for the DR over the KLR, XRL, 650GS, 690E, DR-Z S, or TE630 for a multitude of reasons.

It's relatively low and can easily be made much lower, it's not as heavy as something like the KLR or GS, it doesn't overheat, it doesn't use valve shims, it has enough gearspread for crawling in dirt as well as cruising 80MPH or for bursts up to 100MPH, it's smooth at any speed, it's low-maintenance, it's simple, it's economical, it's easy to work/weld on, it has a good aftermarket/used selection of parts/accessories, it can get out of it's own way, it's smooth on the slab, it's versatile, it responds well to mods, it has enough room for a petite passenger, it'll haul a crapload of gear, it'll take a pounding, it can be made to fit MANY sizes/shapes of people, and it's FUN (especially with some decent mods).


This bike still puts a grin on my face, whether I'm...

...commuting in rain and the bike is still easy to control if it slips on leaves or paint, downshifting and then leaning into the exit ramp curves after a 1200 mile day coming from TX, realizing I'm on the only DR650 I've even seen at Daytona Bike Week...2-up, waving/nodding at the touring-bike riders as we pass each other on the slab...with them doing a double-take when they realize WE are on basically a big fat dirtbike , getting a similar reaction when passing a huge pickup with a dirtbike in the back and they realize they could have RIDDEN to and from the dirt, giving it the gas in 2nd and feeling the front end loft over that branch in the trail, giving it the gas in 3rd and watching my nephew fall behind on the quad while ripping across my mom's rain-soaked hilly front pasture, checking my bank statement and realizing I only had to buy $60 in gas to commute last month, or swinging a U-turn through a nasty median like it's paved to check on the rider pulled over on the other side of the highway. This bike is a hoot.
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:12 PM   #62580
acesandeights
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I tend to buy new also. At the time I bought my truck, used car/truck prices were through the roof. My wife wanted to save money and buy used so I let her look first. Then I showed her the incentives, rebates and what the sales guy was willing to come down to on new. I passed a lot of used trucks with high prices to buy a new one for less. Six years later she wanted a year old car (to save money). She looked at *almost* exactly what she wanted. Then she noticed exactly what she wanted had rebates, incentives and a sales guy that wanted to make an end of month deal. She saved over $2k buying a new car over almost the same used car (fewer options). She asked the sales guy how and he explained that they'd sold the first car then had to take it back on a trade that left no room to negotiate. They were "stuck" with the price or had to sell it for a loss. With incentives, dealer cash back, rebates on new cars they could sell a new car at a profit for less. Do your homework and there is no reason not to get a new car smell for less than a used car problem.

It's the same with bikes. A friend of mine bought a used DR. I bought new. He has a number of mods he was initially excited about getting for "free". Now that he's deciding more what he wants to do with the bike he keeps taking them off and spending money on what he wants, and taking care of maintenance that needs to be done at 7k - 10k miles. I couldn't find a used bike like I wanted, so I went new and got near zero financing, which was over 8.5% on a "used" bike. I had a down payment that got not only my %-rate lower but there was an incentive too. You can often buy new for so close to used I wonder sometimes why people buy used at all. Seems people that buy used don't know how to research and negotiate.

There is a store in Klamath Falls Oregon that I would highly recommend. I just can't remember the name of it. Power-something?
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