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Old 03-30-2012, 05:46 AM   #196
tileman
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Oh to have access to some of the classes and a workshop that you have in the states !!!!!!

Great work and thanks for the detail shots, something to aspire too.
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:01 AM   #197
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Greatness!

Loving this thread, Gregor

Very inspiring...
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:56 AM   #198
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G$ on the case!

G$, looking good...

Couple hints on the stainless welding, thick to thin...

1. Use gravity to your advantage. For instance, if you have 1/4" that you are welding to 16 gauge or less, position the 1/4" part of the weld so that it is above the thinner material. Then, without even using filler, concentrate 90% of your arc on the 1/4" side of the weld, when it become liquid, it will simply slump with gravity to the thinner size and instantly fuse. This requires a lot of repositioning, but yields a nice welds.

2. Use a non-ferrous (copper/brass are best) tube on the inside of the thin wall tube. Machine the tube so that it fits with play inside the stainless thin wall tube. Clamp the copper/brass tube outboard on your table and then hang the thin wall off it. This allows you to rotate it with ease so repositioning gets easier. Also, the non-ferrous metal backs up the thin wall stainless making it less likely you will blow through, and since it is non-ferrous, you wont accidentally weld to it.

3. Master your filler-less weld. In allot of instances, it takes more heat to get the filler rod going than doing without. If you have a tight seam, and thickness on at least one side, my recommendation is always to attempt the weld without filler rod, by simply fusing the 2 sides by material transfer from the thicker to the thinner side of the weld.

I know, these comments are late... but for the next time you have to make that kind of weld (and let's face it, if you have done it once, your bound to do it again...)

Glad I could be of service on those flanges... beer money has been pissed away!

Cheers,

Isaac
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:07 PM   #199
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Pancakes!

Thanks for the tips man. I want to make you proud so I'm going to work hard to improve my chops. I'll get some hood time in PXD and hit it when I get back with more control. I'm going to rock this exhaust, I promise. I'm all in.

G$

PS Filipo!
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:23 AM   #200
Ravyn
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G$,
My tip for measuring the distance between the center of two equal size holes: measure the outside of one to the inside of the other. This gives you the exact center to center.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sakurama View Post
Pancakes!

Thanks for the tips man. I want to make you proud so I'm going to work hard to improve my chops. I'll get some hood time in PXD and hit it when I get back with more control. I'm going to rock this exhaust, I promise. I'm all in.

G$

PS Filipo!
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:52 PM   #201
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So I'm back in Portland and I signed up for a welding class at the local community college. Since I'm not doing a "course" so to speak I'm not tied to a course structure which is really great. Basically I'm doing Tig practice once a week for 8 hours. This should help.

My instructor helps me get set up on a mammoth Lincoln and I do a few fuse welds which are simple and solid so then I start with adding filler rod and keeping track of my amps.



And I keep welding coupons...



Until finally, for one glorious inch and a half, I get it right. Not sure exactly what I did but I learned a few things. I think I'll ask over in the welding thread. Anyway, here's my success:



Of course it's way harder to do that on tube. I think I'll be ordering my own tube out here and my project for this class will be a collector. That should keep me busy.

In other good news I'm very happy that I ordered my carbs through KTM Twins as Ron is helping hustle my carbs through the red tape that is SUDCO and there's an off chance I'll get them by next week when I'm back. There's other stuff to do if that doesn't happen. I could start sanding the bodywork...

Anyway, trying to keep progress moving forward.

Gregor
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:13 AM   #202
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I like it....Bingo!

I too have considered a Tig Welding class, just about to buy my own kit so I can do my own bits and pieces.

The thing that's worrying me is welding the thin stuff, when you can weld a coke can you've cracked it apparently!

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Old 04-07-2012, 08:59 AM   #203
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I like it....Bingo!

I too have considered a Tig Welding class, just about to buy my own kit so I can do my own bits and pieces.

The thing that's worrying me is welding the thin stuff, when you can weld a coke can you've cracked it apparently!

Actually if you're using the new square wave inverters the Coke can isn't quite as hard as it used to be. I have a Dynasty 200DX which is about all you'd ever need for a motorcycle. 200 amps is way more power than anything on a bike requires and most of the time you're around 70-100 amps so you can even run it on 110v (it switches automatically) and that was a big part of the appeal.

Here's a video of the holy grail:



I say do it Pyn - it's one of the most amazing skills ever to be able to just join two pieces of metal. Since my class is open I'm going to switch up about halfway to work on my aluminum skills and I'll see if I can do the Coke can. After the exhaust is a monocoque aluminum subframe/gas tank. That is way over my skill level so it sounds just about perfect.
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:07 AM   #204
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Art

Great words and pictures of your processes Gregor - you are a true artist. Hope the bike comes together in time for June :)
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:49 PM   #205
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that's good news on the course, I've been messing around with a cheap chinese TIG/Plasma combo and I must say it's more difficult than it looks.
The funny part is that I can weld any thickness of steel at any position with stick or MIG but when it comes to TIG the only thing I've accomplished so far is joining with no filler.
Staying tuned for more pointers
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:13 AM   #206
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No real progress to report. I am in NYC again and got some time to head to the shop and since I don't feel ready to start welding the exhaust I just put in some hood time to practice the things I've been learning.



That is my new torch head. It's a pyrex cup around a gas diffusion lens that is supposed to help with better gas coverage. The gas is argon, which is used for tig welding, and stainless is more susceptible to contamination so the lens helps to cover the weld area better. If the arc is exposed to air the weld becomes brittle and contaminated. When I start welding the exhaust for real I'll also have to fill the tubes with argon so the back is protected. I'm also using a thinner tungsten (the center electrode) so the actual arc is smaller and more focused. I whipped up the torch stand last night as I was getting sick of holding it in my lap and I don't want to break that pyrex cup.



Anyway, the top weld is my last one. I feel that if I wanted to I could do a passable job of welding the exhaust now but I'd like to practice more. At this point I have a lot of time and cash into it and my perfectionist nature would like me to be patient. My riding nature would like me to hurry the hell up. We battle frequently.

I have some time today and tomorrow depending on how my retouching goes and I'd like to get something done on the bike so we'll see what I come up with.

Gregor
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:32 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakurama View Post


Anyway, the top weld is my last one.
Those two on the bottom look better than the ones on some parts I've ordered before. I'd say you're ready to go.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:41 AM   #208
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good looking welds man, well done
I say on with the exhaust too
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:50 PM   #209
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So I actually got another day at the shop before I had to leave for Italy and since I couldn't move forward on the exhaust without more bends to make the "X" pipe I thought to myself, "How can I did myself a deeper hole? How can I really paint myself into a corner on this build more than I have? Is there anyway that I can make sure I won't have a motorcycle to ride when it's nice and warm?"

And then it hit me! I'll strip the paint off the bodywork with no real plan of what I'd do next! Genius!



Yes, that's me grinding on a gas tank. I asked my friend Kenny to take this since I wasn't sure if I'd live through it. Sure, I'd flushed the tanks with soapy water a few times but you never know. Anyway, the reason for the grinding was those stupid embedded nuts for the tank guards - one was spinning. I ground off the head and then dug the bitch out.



Not sure what genius thought a plastic tank would hold that forever. Not sure how I'll fix that yet either.

I found a Valentine radar detector buried in foam in one of the side panels - wondered where that went.





Teachable Moment!


And since I had to remove the front blinkers I figured I'd try to add something useful (for a change). I'll teach you how to take these things apart. Yes, I bite my nails and have horrible cuticles. You would too if this were your bike. Here's the little connector:



This is what you want to do - remove these leads without breaking them. This is the "top" of the clamp.



Here it is with one lead removed. See that little tang on the bottom? Bottom means the opposite from the two rolled edges that form the little clamping blades. That tang holds this bugger in the plastic.



You remove it by inserting a very small, thin piece of metal (a saw blade isn't recommended but it's what I had on hand) in-between the "bottom" of the clamp/lead and the plastic and disengaging that tiny tang while pulling (gently) the wire on the back side.



This gets the guy undone so it can be threaded through the holes of the body panel or wherever it goes and then put back together. It's one of those things no one teaches you and it's hard to figure out on your own. Hopefully that will be useful to you someday.

And back to our regularly scheduled destruction...

I'll admit it. I think Flanny has done some great stuff to his bike. You have to when you ride so slow. One of the things he did that I liked was to cut open the side panel. Since that is where my "X" collector will reside I figure I'll open mine up as well so there's more pressure on me to make it look good.



Then I start the process of no return:



And this sucks. No, it seriously sucks. I can't tell if the stickers are cleared over or just incredibly thin or both. Finally, after trying numerous solvents and curse words I came upon this method of removing the stickers: heat gun aimed just ahead of a sharp scraper.



By "sharp" I mean this:



Grind a flexible paint/putty/drywall scraper at 90° lightly on a grinding wheel to make a sharp burr on both sides. That burr, not a knife edge, will do a good job of pulling up those (fucking) stickers.

And that brings me to here:



So, now it's basically spring and I have a bike with no carbs, no exhaust and no bodywork. I'm a freaking genius!

Back in Portland this week I did some more welding - getting closer!



So I'm back to NYC this coming week and I've ordered more tube to build the crossover. I aim to get the bodywork primed and the crossover built and the back of the exhaust fabbed and tacked.

Gregor
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Old 04-29-2012, 03:43 AM   #210
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