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Old 04-04-2012, 10:16 AM   #46
Urban_Traveler
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Philadelphia
Oddometer: 76
The jetting turned out to work great, no more pop and getting slightly better gas mileage 33-35 ish (I was consistantly around 31). I think cleaning the K&N helped as well, it was filthy. I have the Viper can from Fly-N-Cylce and am very pleased with the sound and install. I've put about 350 miles on with the few changes we did over the winter and she runs like a dream, all thats left is new tires. I'm liking the current 18's, but the more and more you guys talk about the 17's gets me thinking...Bob bike looks sick, let me know when you're around and I'll bring the camera. I need to post completed pics of mine as well, the red is so lovely, ha.

Oh, and TT-RDHS I found the frame sliders, they were by GSG Moto, and they fit great, although they did take 6 weeks to get from Germany.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:09 PM   #47
TT RDHS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urban_Traveler View Post

Oh, and TT-RDHS I found the frame sliders, they were by GSG Moto, and they fit great, although they did take 6 weeks to get from Germany.
I'm glad you found some...

Hope you never need 'em!!!


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Old 04-14-2012, 12:56 AM   #48
Pica Hudsonia
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The Big One an ornery beast to steer?

I saw an online ad for a '95 CB-1000 in my area (sort of). It has 37k miles, a Corbin seat, and Vance & Hines exhaust. Talking to the seller on the phone, I learned it needs new tires and has a wicked pulse/vibration when the front brake is applied. He said it's pretty good otherwise--starts easy, runs smooth, and shifts like it should. I priced brake rotors ($576, yikes!) and tires so I'd know what I'm up against and would have some leverage for negotiating the price.

Went and saw it today, and I was very disappointed. The whole bike had a bad "vibe" to it... rounded bolt heads, a few little parts missing, a finicky ignition switch, tank is scratched up, etc. And the radiator looks pretty trashed--I think those are over 300 bucks. I decided it's not for me in this condition, but before telling him this, I asked to take it for a test ride (you know, just out of curiosity)...

I have little experience with big bikes, but I think this one's got serious issues. I was fighting it the whole time: below 10 or 15 miles per hour, it did not want to go straight. The tiniest steering input made it want keep turning in, and it took lots of force on the bars to straighten it back out. At higher speeds, it was just the opposite. It took big counter-steering muscle to make it turn at all. Some of this is probably attributable to the worn tires, but I think there are bigger problems, maybe with the suspension, frame, or ???

Are these beasts known for having very heavy steering? I can't imagine trying to ride this one aggressively. I'd be worn out after 20 minutes.

The only silver lining was the engine. Smooth, powerful, and with that V&H can, it sounded fantastic. Too bad it's bolted to the chassis of a beater.
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:25 AM   #49
quint7
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I would bet the tire pressure was way down. They do steer differently with the stock 18 inch rims, but nothing radically different than say my ZRX1100 which was a similar bike with a slightly shorter wheelbase and 17 inch rims. I do remember the bike was a littler harder to turn in when rolling compared to smaller bikes, but nothing unridable.
As far as value, some guys are on crack. I paid $2000 for mine with 22000 miles and a tank that needed repainting. My friend paid $3200 for his with half the miles and a full 2 Bros system. I see them on Ebay for $3000 and I say it is too much, way too much. I would look at spending $2000 on it and immediately buying the 17 inch rims for it which with new tires should run about $500-750 more total giving you an amazing bike for well under $3000.
Guys get hung up on the "only made for 2 years" thing when it was actually made for years and years, it just wasn't sold here. I see this with my 1100 Zephyrs and when I had Yamaha FZX700 Fazers. Guys equate limited US availability with increased value because they are 'rare' and therefore parts MUST be hard to get and the bike therefore MUST be valuable. Parts are all over for all of those bikes, it is just the model specific things like bodywork that can be expensive.
Also, don't look at Honda parts as far as replacement brakes, etc. Aftermarket stuff is available for a much lower cost. Sounded like a warped rotor or something and unless that guy was willing to sell for $1000 it sounds like you made the right move by walking away.
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Old 04-15-2012, 02:04 AM   #50
Pica Hudsonia
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I don't regret passing on this one.

The $576 pair of rotors are aftermarket--Galfer wave rotors. Honda OEM ones are over 400 bucks EACH.

This guy is asking $1950 for the bike, but I think he's up in the night. Here's how I was going to approach the deal (if it had been in much better shape):

Kelley Blue Book values it at $2605 retail in excellent condition; $1755 good condition trade-in. I'd have started at the high end of that range and deducted the price of known problems--the aforementioned rotors and a set of tires ($350 including mounting labor). These few items add up to about $930, so I would have offered $1600--that's IF the radiator didn't look so shoddy and everything else was a bit nicer shape.

As-is, I would not pay 1000. If he were giving it away, I'd probably drag it home and try to get it sorted out, but I really don't want a project as much as something I can just ride.

It's too bad, because I think these are really neat bikes. This specimen was just way too rough.
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:51 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pica Hudsonia View Post
The $576 pair of rotors are aftermarket--Galfer wave rotors. Honda OEM ones are over 400 bucks EACH.
WTF?!?

And people say H-D parts are expensive.

FWIW, some guys on the ZG forum have tried the Chinese rotors off eBay and had good luck with them. IIRC they are around $200 for the set. Don't know if they make any for the Big One though.
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Old 04-18-2012, 06:04 AM   #52
Urban_Traveler
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I don't think its absurd to pay $3k for a CB1000, if it is in pristine condition; then you'll have it forever and you'll love every second. I did not pay near that for mine, but quite a bit in parts, but if I do ever sell it I wouldn't let it go for less than $3k. If it never sells than I'll hang it from the ceiling.

That sounds like a smart move passing on the aforementioned CB. Steering is 'heavier' but in multiple 100 mile rides through twisties in PA I've never felt beat up or extremely exhausted. Then again I'm coming from riding a similar styled 850r, so it was heavier as well. The stripped fasteners is an immediate turn off in my opinion, that is just asking for serious issues down the road. Check ebay for parts or check some of the discount parts warehouses, theres a few online places that have OEM parts for 30%-50% off. Or work somthing out with a dealer, I ended up buying a new tank for mine (long story) and list is like $1500 or something, I ended up getting it from a local dealer for $899; you may think thats alot but the paint alone for the Pearl Red is $300, then the tank needs to be stripped, prepped, painted, cleared, and the decals are inlaid in the clear.

My note to buyers (take it for what its worth) its not a super-duper-fast-twisty-killing-maniac machine, for that you need a real sportbike. But for me, this machine is the perfect commuter, weekend rider, and night time pleasure rides. Coming to work it may hit triple digits or I may just meander my way to the office. Its an excellent due all, and just like many articles say, "...it does nothing perfect but everything quite well". Good luck in your search.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:49 PM   #53
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I'll post here to keep this thing going...finally upgraded to a newer dslr and I had a quick break from work to take some pics. I love HDR photos and extremely exaggerated perspective so some may hate the pics but I dig them. Its my first few pics through the d5100 so still got a few settings to work on and I still have a lot to learn.

The bike is running great after a bit of winter work, work done as follows...New Tank, install jet kit, replace a few fuel lines, replace cracked overflow coolant line, replace front right engine case cover, replace clutch fluid, replace all light bulbs, clean inside glass of guages (PITA!!), carb sync, clean K&N, and install new tank bag. All that is left is new front/rear rubber and a bearing check. I personally have found this bike to fit me like a glove. Let me know what you think.
















Edit: Forgot to send a huge shout-out to Bobdot for all the help, having a Honda Tech as a friend is priceless, plus paying him in beer means we both benefit.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:36 AM   #54
kingrukus
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Plug Heat Range?

Hey guys, I recently did a tune up on my 95' CB1000 in which I changed the plugs over to NGK iridiums. The recommended plug for the bike is a "9" heat range however what I removed from the bike was an "8" heat range, so a little hotter of a plug. The bike starts and runs good but it doesn't seem to run as hot as it used to and I also noticed after a long ride the idle seems just a tad high when I come to a stop. Could these few issues be caused from a colder plug? What do you all run for plugs? I live in MI. so I get a diverse range of temperatures to ride in but mostly 75 degrees or hotter.
Any help would be great! Thanks!
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:49 AM   #55
Stobie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TT RDHS View Post
Thanks!

That was mine...

Beautiful job on that bike, TT.

Can you tell me what brand of 1/4 fairing you used? I have a '93 GSX1100G that would benefit from a little bit of wind protection.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:02 AM   #56
Buellrunner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urban_Traveler View Post
I'll post here to keep this thing going...finally upgraded to a newer dslr and I had a quick break from work to take some pics. I love HDR photos and extremely exaggerated perspective so some may hate the pics but I dig them. Its my first few pics through the d5100 so still got a few settings to work on and I still have a lot to learn.

The bike is running great after a bit of winter work, work done as follows...New Tank, install jet kit, replace a few fuel lines, replace cracked overflow coolant line, replace front right engine case cover, replace clutch fluid, replace all light bulbs, clean inside glass of guages (PITA!!), carb sync, clean K&N, and install new tank bag. All that is left is new front/rear rubber and a bearing check. I personally have found this bike to fit me like a glove. Let me know what you think.
















Edit: Forgot to send a huge shout-out to Bobdot for all the help, having a Honda Tech as a friend is priceless, plus paying him in beer means we both benefit.
That bike looks amazing.
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:29 AM   #57
quint7
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If I remember correctly (the bike was at my house for 2 weeks in transit to a new owner in Canada), it is a fairing designed for the CB1000 and available only in Japan. When I had mine I looked all over for a fairing that looked good and gave up. I had a National Cycle Fly Screen, a Rifle, a Targa....... they just didn't look good like that one does.
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:18 PM   #58
zoo mob
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Saw one for the first time the other day on the side of the road for sale for $3200. Very nice condition, but 32k miles and I just bought a Bandit 1250. I'm loving the Bandit, but sure like the looks of the CB a ton better. I'll own one some day.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:00 AM   #59
Urban_Traveler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingrukus View Post
Hey guys, I recently did a tune up on my 95' CB1000 in which I changed the plugs over to NGK iridiums. The recommended plug for the bike is a "9" heat range however what I removed from the bike was an "8" heat range, so a little hotter of a plug. The bike starts and runs good but it doesn't seem to run as hot as it used to and I also noticed after a long ride the idle seems just a tad high when I come to a stop. Could these few issues be caused from a colder plug? What do you all run for plugs? I live in MI. so I get a diverse range of temperatures to ride in but mostly 75 degrees or hotter.
Any help would be great! Thanks!
I used the plugs recommeneded by the dealership, so to be honest I personally can't add much input here. I have changed them out though and it has run perfect eversince.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:42 AM   #60
brixtonsaint
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stock bars

Any tips for removibg tge bar ends on the stock vars? Seem to be sodered there. Putting on bar ends.
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