ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-14-2012, 11:58 AM   #41341
xj750guy
on the Baja 7yr plan
 
xj750guy's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Alberta "Wildrose Country" Canada
Oddometer: 99
Talking

Hey folks,

Stupid question......

I'm in the process of mounting a Shorai battery on top of the air box (ala Spud), and have a quick question regarding cables.

Is there any reason why the ground cable actually has to go all the way down the the ground lug by the starter?

Being that the Shorai is going to be mounted between the frame rails, why not just loop a short cable from the negative battery post, right to the frame where the factory harness grounds are already located?

Any thoughts.

Regards
XJ
__________________
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail
xj750guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 12:01 PM   #41342
kenny61
Crazy Idiot
 
kenny61's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Romaniacs 2019
Oddometer: 23,670
It just guarantees direct path for electricity.
__________________
On the plains of hesitation lie the blackened bones of countless millions who at the dawn of victory lay down to rest, and in resting died.

Go forth and be a force of the awesome!
kenny61 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 12:09 PM   #41343
xj750guy
on the Baja 7yr plan
 
xj750guy's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Alberta "Wildrose Country" Canada
Oddometer: 99
Quote:
It just guarantees direct path for electricity.
Is there any reason that grounding the frame directly as I suggested would be "inadequate" as opposed to the factory setup?

I suppose I could put a ground "jumper" cable between the frame and the starter lug if it didn't complete a good circuit to the starter.

Later
XJ
__________________
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail
xj750guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 12:48 PM   #41344
malignity
The Hurt Locker
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Sanford, MI
Oddometer: 361
I'm double checking my PO's work on Dave's carb mod; just curious if there was a way to check to see how thin a washer is without using a micrometer? Unfortunately, I don't have one. I'm wondering if maybe his shim wasn't big enough. Seems like an awfully thin washer.

I don't know much about this style carb, so what happens if I shim it a bit more?
__________________
'10 Yamaha WR250R
gldsmc.org
malignity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 12:51 PM   #41345
MuscleGarunt
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Tip of the civilized world
Oddometer: 107
Get a caliper. Go to the reloading section of your local Wal Mart. Pick up the Lyman dial caliper for 28 dollars or something. It's a good thing to have.
MuscleGarunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 12:53 PM   #41346
ThumpnRed
Pig Wrangler
 
ThumpnRed's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Eye Duh Hoe
Oddometer: 2,296
Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ TOM View Post
Was having same bottoming rubbing problem with 606 with right amout of sag set. Had a lowering link also. The link puts more leverage on the shock & it blows through the travel faster & can bottom out. Removed the link set the sag & all is good.
ditto. I HATED the lowering link on my bike. It blew through the available travel like me through a case of good beer You can get a stiffer spring to help offset it, but then you end up with less sag which kind of negates the whole point of the lowering link.
I am convinced that the best way to lower the rear end is to tear down the shock and install a lowering spacer in the shock itself. Messing with the linkage rates is always a compromise.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
ThumpnRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 01:04 PM   #41347
malignity
The Hurt Locker
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Sanford, MI
Oddometer: 361
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuscleGarunt View Post
Get a caliper. Go to the reloading section of your local Wal Mart. Pick up the Lyman dial caliper for 28 dollars or something. It's a good thing to have.
I'll be picking one up likely soon, as it seems like I'd be needing one. Any idea what'll happen if I shim it more? Poor performance? Richer mixture? Explosive kangaroos out of the exhaust?
__________________
'10 Yamaha WR250R
gldsmc.org
malignity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 01:05 PM   #41348
kenny61
Crazy Idiot
 
kenny61's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Romaniacs 2019
Oddometer: 23,670
Quote:
Originally Posted by xj750guy View Post
Is there any reason that grounding the frame directly as I suggested would be "inadequate" as opposed to the factory setup?

I suppose I could put a ground "jumper" cable between the frame and the starter lug if it didn't complete a good circuit to the starter.

Later
XJ
Im sure there is, but I dont think you would have a problem if you used a jumper
__________________
On the plains of hesitation lie the blackened bones of countless millions who at the dawn of victory lay down to rest, and in resting died.

Go forth and be a force of the awesome!
kenny61 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 01:26 PM   #41349
ShooterDave
Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Caliscrewitself
Oddometer: 1,381
Quote:
Originally Posted by malignity View Post
I'll be picking one up likely soon, as it seems like I'd be needing one. Any idea what'll happen if I shim it more? Poor performance? Richer mixture? Explosive kangaroos out of the exhaust?


The holes in the slide allow for the slide to move faster, the shim in the needle allows for more gas to get in sooner. You can lower or raise it all you want, it will still run. It just won't run well. So all it will do is change the way the carb behaves. Experiment with it. I found that on my Ninja, it runs well with one or two shims in it. It just runs a tad better with just one, so I stick with that.
__________________
My Lower 48+ ride on my XR650L - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565350

ShooterDave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 02:35 PM   #41350
malignity
The Hurt Locker
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Sanford, MI
Oddometer: 361
Well, I shimmed the needle to about a .035 or so and rejetted the main to a 162. If the reason it's not getting above 70mph very easily is because it's too lean, I'm thinking it's about to be damn right cured here in a few.

Carb's back in, taking a break right now. Was having some random 'all thumbs' difficulty getting the oil separator reconnected and my back is killing me (for some reason I have back issues at 28). Waiting for my Motrin 800 to kick in and my pizza rolls to finish in the oven. There's nothing like a few dozen pizza rolls right before working on a bike.
__________________
'10 Yamaha WR250R
gldsmc.org
malignity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 02:40 PM   #41351
malignity
The Hurt Locker
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Sanford, MI
Oddometer: 361
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuscleGarunt View Post
Back tire lasts about 2000 miles for me using as a get to work ride 20 mile round trip and a play in the woods and get around town bike.

Front tire lasts about 6000 miles.

At 55 for a front and 60 for a rear they don't break the bank. I love the tread pattern, like a shovel I always say.
Outta curiosity, I remember reading somewhere that people said the front Kenda 760's can wash out on pavement at certain speeds. Personally, I've never had any major issues after the break in period, have you?

Had a little bit of a scary moment during break in with about 20 miles on the tires going on the expressway. I could feel the knobs start to slip on the entrance ramp. It wasn't anything horrible and I haven't had any issues since.
__________________
'10 Yamaha WR250R
gldsmc.org
malignity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 03:06 PM   #41352
ShooterDave
Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Caliscrewitself
Oddometer: 1,381
Quote:
Originally Posted by malignity View Post
Well, I shimmed the needle to about a .035 or so and rejetted the main to a 162. If the reason it's not getting above 70mph very easily is because it's too lean, I'm thinking it's about to be damn right cured here in a few.

Carb's back in, taking a break right now. Was having some random 'all thumbs' difficulty getting the oil separator reconnected and my back is killing me (for some reason I have back issues at 28). Waiting for my Motrin 800 to kick in and my pizza rolls to finish in the oven. There's nothing like a few dozen pizza rolls right before working on a bike.
You sure the reason is because of it being too lean? 162 is a pretty big jet, mines a 158 I think and it does fine, even at 155 it will easily reach 70+mph. What is your gearing at?
__________________
My Lower 48+ ride on my XR650L - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565350

ShooterDave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 03:18 PM   #41353
Cigar Mike
Too Old and Too Slow
 
Cigar Mike's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Centennial, Co
Oddometer: 1,371
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
ditto. I HATED the lowering link on my bike. It blew through the available travel like me through a case of good beer You can get a stiffer spring to help offset it, but then you end up with less sag which kind of negates the whole point of the lowering link.
I am convinced that the best way to lower the rear end is to tear down the shock and install a lowering spacer in the shock itself. Messing with the linkage rates is always a compromise.
What lowering links have you guys been using? I installed one from Performance Designs and It may have lowered it a little more than an inch. I installed it to improve the handling by leaving the forks alone. I would have installed a stiffer spring if needed. I have to disagree with the idea that when setting the sag with the stiffer spring it would negate the installation of the lowering link. Your sag would still be the same and the end result would be your bike is lower. For as slow as I am I did not notice much difference. I checked the sag after the switch an it was so close I did not have to adjust it. I like it a little softer for the speeds and terrain I travel on.

I have never bought a dirt bike that I did not change to stiffer springs. But I don't think of the L as a dirt bike. It is good enough to ride mild dirt and easy single track, and is a good fit for Adventure Rides . I still have dirt bikes but the L is not one of them.

Mike
__________________
When in doubt, give it Gas!
Cigar Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 03:29 PM   #41354
Cigar Mike
Too Old and Too Slow
 
Cigar Mike's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Centennial, Co
Oddometer: 1,371
Quote:
Originally Posted by malignity View Post
Outta curiosity, I remember reading somewhere that people said the front Kenda 760's can wash out on pavement at certain speeds. Personally, I've never had any major issues after the break in period, have you?

Had a little bit of a scary moment during break in with about 20 miles on the tires going on the expressway. I could feel the knobs start to slip on the entrance ramp. It wasn't anything horrible and I haven't had any issues since.
It seems that most that have tried the 760 front did not like it. Most of the complaints I have read have been in the dirt. I ran one for a few hundred miles and took it off. I don't like that narrow a tire on this heavy of a bike. I liked the Kenda 777F much better but it wears fast especially under heavy braking. It did bit well off road though. So well it would climb up the side of ruts if you were not careful. I am running the Unicross front now. It wears better and I have no problems with it washing out in the dirt. It seems to hold it's line well in the turns. Not the best, but a good compromise. On the pavement I had no issues with the 760 but I don't push them as hard as street tires.
__________________
When in doubt, give it Gas!
Cigar Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 04:19 PM   #41355
ThumpnRed
Pig Wrangler
 
ThumpnRed's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Eye Duh Hoe
Oddometer: 2,296
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike View Post
What lowering links have you guys been using? I installed one from Performance Designs and It may have lowered it a little more than an inch. I installed it to improve the handling by leaving the forks alone. I would have installed a stiffer spring if needed. I have to disagree with the idea that when setting the sag with the stiffer spring it would negate the installation of the lowering link. Your sag would still be the same and the end result would be your bike is lower. For as slow as I am I did not notice much difference. I checked the sag after the switch an it was so close I did not have to adjust it. I like it a little softer for the speeds and terrain I travel on.

I have never bought a dirt bike that I did not change to stiffer springs. But I don't think of the L as a dirt bike. It is good enough to ride mild dirt and easy single track, and is a good fit for Adventure Rides . I still have dirt bikes but the L is not one of them.

Mike
If you have so much spring tension that you lose sag, your shock (and bike) sits higher in the stroke. Set up properly with several inches of sag and a stock link will make the bike actually sit lower than a "corrected" bike with a lowering link. Another issue that I found with a lowering link is that the first inch or so of travel is still pretty good, but after that the increased leverage eats through the remainder of the travel.

Now... having said that, if I stayed close to the hardtop road, I would have left my lowering link on the bike. I am however prone to pointing my pig into a series of whoops and grabbing a handful of noise. That is where the lowering link really fell down. Without the link, it will behave pretty well.

The brand of link is really irrelevant... they are all simply a longer dogbone. One brand might be a tad longer or shorter than the others, but there's no secret sauce. The bottom line is that the more a link lowers the bike, the more it rapes the link ratio.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
ThumpnRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014