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Old 04-16-2012, 03:26 AM   #2671
David R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyanvil View Post
Tank ? I have a small tank 7"x 24" on my welder and a large 7"x 48" tank for Nitrogen, are they the same? I would like to make the larger one my welding tank and the smaller one my Nitrogen.
You Will have to ask your gas supplier. One is probably 40 cf and one is probably 80 cf.
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Old 04-24-2012, 05:04 AM   #2672
ishdishwishfish
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I've been having trouble getting penetration welding a tab to the frame neck of this chop I'm working on. Making a fork stop so that I don't get into any serious trouble.
It's (I believe) a 120V, 24A gasless flux mig--harbor freight model. It's the step up from the really cheap one, bought used. Doesn't look like I can change the amp setting.
So I'm trying to weld 7 gauge (IIRC) to the neck. It needs to be a longer tab, about an inch. The width of the weld is about an inch.
I round out the tab to fit the neck, chamfer the end by going approx. 45 deg. half and half flat. Usually use a flap disc to prep, but did use a file to burr the edges later. Did have a little better pen. using the file.
I'll get it tall prepped, tack the weld on once, then run the weld down the tab. I'm holding the tab in place with the negative, so flipping the mask down, turning on the torch, etc. gets in the way of a good tack. Then I'll run a weld down, usually all at once.

It looks like it's only penetrating the chamfer section. I'll run a decent (for me at least) bead, but it still doesn't penetrate through the bottom. There are too many variables for me to figure out on my own: am I going too fast? Do I need a larger wire dia? try and eek out higher amperage (turn off everything else on that outlet) ? different chamfer? wrong prep? Don't mess with it and wait for the weld to cure? Please advise

I think I need to make the chamfer deeper angle, make the flat section shorter and be sure I get the flux down in there, go slow enough to pool.

Scott.
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:15 AM   #2673
ishdishwishfish
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Turns out that neck is cast iron. I'll have to try welding it to the bearing race.
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:36 AM   #2674
NitroAcres
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ishdishwishfish View Post
Turns out that neck is cast iron. I'll have to try welding it to the bearing race.
Necks on motorcycles are Cast Steel...not cast iron.

Bearing race is hard as glass..."Yer gonna put an eye out kid"
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:25 PM   #2675
ishdishwishfish
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Originally Posted by NitroAcres View Post
Necks on motorcycles are Cast Steel...not cast iron.

Bearing race is hard as glass..."Yer gonna put an eye out kid"
Haha yeah we've made progress in that dept. Taking it in to get tigged. I need some other stuff done too, this guy's reasonable. Case of beer reasonable.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:45 PM   #2676
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Originally Posted by ishdishwishfish View Post
Haha yeah we've made progress in that dept. Taking it in to get tigged. I need some other stuff done too, this guy's reasonable. Case of beer reasonable.
GoodCall, Bring him Good Beer and remember a case is 24, and he will remember you next time, I had a guy bring me a 12pack..he actually called it a "case"....
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:10 PM   #2677
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Eek Busted Boss on R100/7 Clutch Release Lever Mount

Hi Everybody,
I searched to see if this had been covered but didn't find anything, so here goes: I have been working on restoring a basket case 77 R100, and after doing everything on the laundry list Olds Cool guys could throw at me, I went on my maiden ride. Everything was going great, rebuilt Bings singing, idle and throttle performance good, etc.... until, when pulling up to a stop sign with a pretty lady at the crosswalk, low and behold the brand new clutch cable snaps.

...Or so I thought. After pushing it past the pretty girl, and another 1/4 mile home, I discover this (or a much less cleaned up version of this with more parts attached):


So, really it looks like the circlip either came off or the PO forgot to put it back on, or for some random reason the cast aluminum just broke. I found an account of this happening to others on Duane Ausherman's website, and he was kind enough to reply to an email asking what can be done about it. He said they have been repaired by welding in the past, some even while on the bike... Nevertheless, I pulled the transmission, emptied the oil and cleaned it thoroughly. The local welding guru is game to fix it but would like to know which type aluminum rods are reccommended for BMW cast aluminum from this era. He decided the little "C" shaped piece was worthless and decided to build up material and bore it out for the lever pin. Anytakers on the rod selection? Thanks!
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:36 PM   #2678
David R
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I think its cast aluminum of good quality. I would clean the aluminum and use 4043 pure aluminum.

For cast I run the torch over the joint with no filler to get the junk out of the cast. Clean again and weld.

You could use a carbon rod to keep the hole.
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:53 PM   #2679
GodOmelet
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R100/7 Clutch Lever Arm Boss

Thanks David. I believe the welder is using copper to maintain the hole. He machined it to a couple thousandths bigger than the pin, but smaller than the hole on the other side, so that we would have some room to bore it out and make it exact. This guy is also a talented machinist, so I'm feeling pretty lucky. His shop is something to behold.

Is 4043 is safe for repeated stress of the type it will be subjected to on a clutch lever mount?
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Old 04-24-2012, 05:25 PM   #2680
David R
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Laugh

There are 4 free things about welding aluminum. Your answer should be here.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ur-skills/tig/


After welding cast aluminum enough times, the stuff that flows the best makes for the best repair. I do not know about the rest.

David
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:17 PM   #2681
KTM640Dakar OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodOmelet View Post
Hi Everybody,
I searched to see if this had been covered but didn't find anything, so here goes: I have been working on restoring a basket case 77 R100, and after doing everything on the laundry list Olds Cool guys could throw at me, I went on my maiden ride. Everything was going great, rebuilt Bings singing, idle and throttle performance good, etc.... until, when pulling up to a stop sign with a pretty lady at the crosswalk, low and behold the brand new clutch cable snaps.

...Or so I thought. After pushing it past the pretty girl, and another 1/4 mile home, I discover this (or a much less cleaned up version of this with more parts attached):


So, really it looks like the circlip either came off or the PO forgot to put it back on, or for some random reason the cast aluminum just broke. I found an account of this happening to others on Duane Ausherman's website, and he was kind enough to reply to an email asking what can be done about it. He said they have been repaired by welding in the past, some even while on the bike... Nevertheless, I pulled the transmission, emptied the oil and cleaned it thoroughly. The local welding guru is game to fix it but would like to know which type aluminum rods are reccommended for BMW cast aluminum from this era. He decided the little "C" shaped piece was worthless and decided to build up material and bore it out for the lever pin. Anytakers on the rod selection? Thanks!

You can use 5356 or 4043 filler. 5356 is stronger. 100% Argon gas TIG weld it.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:48 PM   #2682
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Tranny Weld

Thanks for the input everyone. Mr. Dakar, I believe that the welder mentioned both of those rod types, so it sounds like he's right there along with you. He said the 5356 is trickier b'cause of the potential for fracture. My guess is just that he's not welded cast aluminum in a while. Would you too have discarded the broken off piece and just built up new metal to make the weld? The broken piece was small but I thought it could have saved quite a bit of trouble as far as providing the hole for the pin, even if it had to be rebored. Is TIG just too hot for a small piece of aluminum?


Here's the piece by itself:

GodOmelet screwed with this post 05-03-2012 at 02:45 PM Reason: I never got explicit permission to list the welder's company
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:36 PM   #2683
Whitebread117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodOmelet View Post
Thanks for the input everyone. Mr. Dakar, I believe that Mike (of Mike's Machine and Welding in R'mond) mentioned both of those rod types, so it sounds like he's right there along with you. He said the 5356 is trickier b'cause of the potential for fracture. My guess is just that he's not welded cast aluminum in a while. Would you too have discarded the broken off piece and just built up new metal to make the weld? The broken piece was small but I thought it could have saved quite a bit of trouble as far as providing the hole for the pin, even if it had to be rebored. Is TIG just too hot for a small piece of aluminum?


Here's the piece by itself:
I would have discarded as well. To achieve full penetration on a piece that thick you'd have to grind a bevel on all four sides of both pieces and make multiple passes which would be difficult in at least two directions due to space constraints. By discarding and building up you've got plenty of room to work. Were it not a stressed part I'd not worry about full penetration and reattach the old piece by beveling lightly and burning it in as hot as I can get away with.

As for my opinion, I'm only a semi-pro. I have (and still can) certify GTAW (TIG) and do weld professionally on occasion but not as a full time welder/fabricator. My advice is worth exactly what you've paid for it.

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Old 04-25-2012, 07:06 PM   #2684
GodOmelet
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R100/7 Clutch Lever Boss Repair

Yes sir, you are in complete agreement with Mike, and he's an extraordinary welder. I got to check out his shop and some of the projects he's working on today, and I feel lucky to have him working on my humble repair.

He knocked up a clever little jig using a machined (and then knurled) piece of copper rod with a center bore and a copper block and an aluminum block to offer both a heat sink, and something to weld up against as he builds up material for the new mount.





I wish I could be there to see it when he welds, but then again if he's like most people I know, even some masters don't like having someone look over their shoulders. I'm thinking I'm going to offer to clean up his shop 3 times a week for some lessons! Besides welding, I want to learn how to use this monster milling machine:
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:19 PM   #2685
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It looks like your in good hands for the repair.
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