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Old 03-27-2012, 09:37 PM   #106
Biebs
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Wicked

Ok - Just to keep you honest.

You keep using the term "Vale Covers" on the flat head those are the "Cylinder Heads"

But you are correct they do cover the valves!!


Very impressed by your Tenancity to tackle this project!!! Plus the transmission !!!


But I digress there are some sick cookies here - Leaf, Northwest, ect I think you might fit in with those guys!!!


Great build just in time for Spring!!!
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:01 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biebs View Post
Ok - Just to keep you honest.

You keep using the term "Vale Covers" on the flat head those are the "Cylinder Heads"

But you are correct they do cover the valves!!


Very impressed by your Tenancity to tackle this project!!! Plus the transmission !!!


But I digress there are some sick cookies here - Leaf, Northwest, ect I think you might fit in with those guys!!!


Great build just in time for Spring!!!
You're right, Biebs. Actually, I haven't been sure what to call them. I've seen those particular parts called both names in all the threads I've been reading. I'll have to look up a Russian parts manual and see what they call them. They are cylinder heads in that they complete the combustion chamber, but they aren't cylinder heads in the same way a BMW airhead has cylinder heads, as you know- Beemer cylinder heads have the valves and springs in the head, which in turn caps the cylinder- two entirely different pieces/parts. Same with most all bikes. Then there is a valve cover that, yep, covers the valves. On this IMZ, the valves are installed in the same hunk of cast iron as the cylinder bore. The outermost piece covers the cylinder/valve hunk of iron, covering the valves and also creating the second piece of the combustion chamber. It also gives a home the the sparkplug.

It needs it's own name. Sidevalve head cover? Flathead valve head?
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:08 AM   #108
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Flywheel in, with new clutch carrier studs. Time for the clutch...

The old clutch plates were pretty trashed. I found a new complete set online. At least, it was supposed to be all new. Turns out the friction plates were somewhat worn. The existing friction plates had swollen up at least a millimeter and a half. I had intended to use them anyway, and cleaned them up with gas, but in the end went with the newer ones.

It looks like the Soviets just ground up whatever they had lying around or swept up off the floor to mix up the glop they used to make the friction material.


The new metal plates were covered in more of that heinous Cosmoline goo, and that had to be cleaned off, too. I ended up cleaning everything I had and using plates from each set.






Even the springs were coated in goo.




Installing the clutch was pretty straightforward, especially with the motor on its nose on the bench.

I went to the hardware store and got a few m8 bolts and nuts. I stacked up the plates and ran the bolts through to the carrier studs, then tightened the nuts until I could start the clutch screws. Piece of cake. The new clutch screw heads were a little bigger than the countersunk holes in the new outer plate, so I wasn't able to punch them. I used some medium strength blue Loctite. Hopefully that will do the trick.



Note that I switched to a newer outer plate at the last..



Check out the nifty clutch alignment tool/motor crank that I got from Crawford Sales. I saw that tool in Roma Dakota's thread and I had to have one!

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Old 03-30-2012, 04:02 AM   #109
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I used extra strong loctite when reinstalling the clutch on our k-750 in addition to punching them. The clutch started making noise and slipped last year..I used standard locktite and a light punch last time. I believe the problem is that the russian countersunk screws are a bit undersized for the internal threads in the original clutchs studs.
Anyway, they won't come loose now..but I will need to use heat to undo the screws next time.

Hope to work on the k-750 this weekend.. :)
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:48 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticIndian View Post
I used extra strong loctite when reinstalling the clutch on our k-750 in addition to punching them. The clutch started making noise and slipped last year..I used standard locktite and a light punch last time. I believe the problem is that the russian countersunk screws are a bit undersized for the internal threads in the original clutchs studs.
Anyway, they won't come loose now..but I will need to use heat to undo the screws next time.

Hope to work on the k-750 this weekend.. :)
I may end up using something stronger too. I need to get it running and see if the clutch plates are the right thickness first. Put up some more pics of the K750- the more the merrier!
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:09 PM   #111
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Crashbox

Motor together and clutch in, time for the transmission. This took a couple tries fitting it all together before I sussed out the order in which it all had to go.

First I had one last bearing to get off the mainshaft. It took a bit of work with the Dremel. I cut the outer race and a collar off first. The inner race I cut grooves in to accept the edges of the bearing puller.





Then everything got degreased and a had good scrub in the kitchen sink. I thought about running the case through the dishwasher, but I figured that would be overkill.




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Old 03-30-2012, 06:12 PM   #112
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More new bearings for the main and secondary shafts. Three ball type and one roller at the output shaft to the driveshaft thingamabob.

The bearing place sent me the shielded type, so the shields had to come out. Easy enough.



The first two got tapped into the bottom of the case with the wooden handle of the ball peen I had lying around. Bashed more like it, but they went in no problem.



First thing to go in is the kickstart gear and shaft. I had to switch out the ratchet piece first. The old spring I got out with a drill bit. The pin holding the ratchet pawl was peened over so I had to file that until it fell out with a bang against the bench.



Then the new piece went in with some grease and the new pin got whacked with a drift to keep it in there.



Finally the collar the hold the gear against the ratchet went on and that new pin got peened both ends.



And then it gets dropped in the bottom of the case. No bearing for this piece.



On the other side is a seal, a gasket, and an aluminum collar. The clutch actuation arm attaches to the collar later.



Then it's a matter of finding the right order to stack the gears and various bushes and spacers in so it all goes in and meshes together.






The other two bearings get tapped on with the handle, and then the "trap door" plate can go on. Note the end of the spring that slides down over the kickstart shaft.
New seal for the input shaft. That bearing sheild will be removed. There's a retainer plate that covers it that has an oil passage top that side.



There's a hole in the back of the kickstart return spring plate that accepts the end of the spring you can see poking out in the previous pic. The spring has to be wound up so the return mechanism works. Roma Dakota told me his trick with a PVC pipe. I made my own in about twp minutes with the Dremel. Worked like a charm.



There's a rod that goes through the case back to front that holds the shift forks. Then the shift pattern plate shaft gets threaded through the case perpendicular to that, and the shift fork pins get lined up in the proper slots. The footshift gear thing goes on the shaft on the other side, a new seal around the splined output shaft, kickstart lever and pin get banged on, Et Voila! - it all gets buttoned up.





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Old 04-03-2012, 04:11 PM   #113
Leaf
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Nag nag. ;3

How's it going? I'm still wetting myself with the suspense. :P
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Old 04-19-2012, 03:24 PM   #114
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More, more, more...
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Old 04-19-2012, 03:33 PM   #115
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Ditto!!!

I just bought a 650 and will have it this weekend. Got a lot to learn about these things and this thread is great for seeing what's going on inside!
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:49 PM   #116
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I think he got 'et by a Grue. ;_;
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:43 AM   #117
mark883
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I just had the trans. on my '99 R1100GS apart.

There is a slight difference in construction and machining quality.
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:27 AM   #118
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Ok, Ok, I'm back!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mark883 View Post
I just had the trans. on my '99 R1100GS apart.

There is a slight difference in construction and machining quality.
HaHa- like what- the GS tranny doesn't look like it was made by a blacksmith?

I've found nuts on this thing where the hole isn't even centered- different thicknesses, too. They just lopped a piece off an octagonal bar, drilled and tapped it, and called it good enough. Some of the slot head machine screws look like they were hand-slotted with a file. The slots don't even bisect the screw head in the center.

One thing can be said, though- this machine is heavy-duty. It's a tank, really. Or a farm implement.

With motor and transmission back together I had to address everything else. It seemed like every little bit needed some attention. At this point I hauled the frame, wheels, and front end outside one nice afternoon and washed it all down and tried to assess what needed doing....



Tapered headstock bearings- woohoo!



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Old 04-20-2012, 08:09 AM   #119
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Welcome back!!!

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Old 04-20-2012, 08:21 AM   #120
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I found some interesting markings on the top steering head bearing dust cover. It appears to be an original piece. One thing about this rebuild is it's been hard to figure out what's original, what's not, what's missing, and what shouldn't be there. The Soviets were great about stamping or casting every part with a big part number, but the exploded views I've found on-line don't always correspond with one another, or to the the part numbers on the bike.

I'm guessing the top cyrillic letters say Made in the Soviet Union, and the lower winged logo is the factory symbol.
Nice fit and finish, eh?





Now for all the fiddly-bits. Fork rebuild first. The seals were shredded. Oil non-existent. A few oz's. of Engine-Brite turned the gritty sludge left in the tubes into something I could wash out, after an hour soaking. The lower clamp got wire-brushed and painted. The bearings got repacked- the bottom one in place, as best I could. Eventually I'll replace them.







I've seen cars with smaller springs...



More grinding of tools to fit conditions...


Everything washed up and out to dry..


Ready to go back together on the operating table..



Back on the bike..
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MotoJ screwed with this post 04-20-2012 at 08:32 AM
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