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Old 04-25-2012, 08:20 PM   #41776
KyoXR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purpledrake View Post
Thanks to both of you.

I already run Gerbings heated gloves during the cold months (October to June....), and would like to also power a heated liner. I am close to the bubble on this. I have toyed with changing the headlight assembly to some smaller load aftermarket, to free up some watts. How much extra wattage did the Mosfet R/R provide?

Your point about the higher load going to the extra heated gear is correct only for cold weather rides; unless you load the system with other equipment, the fixed power output from the alternator (186W if memory serves) would indeed fry a smaller R/R. Do I have this right?

PD
you have that right, as long as what regulates the capacity of a R/R is more the heat sink capacity rather then the current load capacity (internal electronics). e.g. 1 amp switch compared to a 100 amp switch.

As far as how much extra wattage the Mosfet provides...I'm not really sure mainly because I put in a 300W stator in at the same time, so I had to up-grade the R/R.
I think that Jack Fleming at Roadstercycle has a page that explains his findings?
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:30 PM   #41777
award900
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Twin Cities, Mn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malignity View Post
I'm looking for a vehicle to haul my XR long distances. While I could simply ride those distances, for those that are hardcore hare scramblers, driving 300 miles one way to hare scramble for 14 hours, then drive 300 miles back is a lot of wear and tear on a person.

The vehicle I'm looking to get is a work van; in specific, something about the size of a Ford E-350. I'm thinking I may go this route so I can pull my bike out at night and chain it up while I sleep in the back of the van.

Does anyone by chance know if an XR650L will fit in the back of one of these big ass conversion work vans?
I would rethink the one ton van. The extra length if you go long is nice , but the rough ride of the one ton gets old. My 650 and KTM fit in the back of my conversion van if I compress the forks with a strap before I load. Conversion has the AC in the ceiling. If only hauling one bike, I love the hitch hauler. No unloading before you get to sleep!

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Old 04-25-2012, 09:38 PM   #41778
Stretch67
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A Little Help?

I lost my Metric thread pitch gauge. What is the thread pitch of the brake lever-to-handlebar / turn signal mount-to-handlebar / throttle assembly-to-handlebar screws? I'm replacing mine with stainless and don't know exactly what to ask for online. M6- ? x20 It looks finer than 1.0.

0.75 perhaps?

Thanks
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:01 PM   #41779
flyingwombat
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Nederland, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purpledrake View Post
Soooo, what is the collective wisdom on this modification (relocating and/or resizing the Regulator/Rectifier)? Especially considering the Shorai Battery Relocation, has this modification taken hold??

I get it that the rectifier changes the 3-phase AC signal into DC (the opposite of an inverter, right?), and the regulator ensures that the proper voltage gets sent to the battery for recharging. By installing a more efficient unit, would that simply reduce the amount of resistance sent to the Reg/Rec unit (thus both reducing heat discharge as well as making make more wattage available for other uses)? What I am wondering is whether a more efficient Reg/Rec would free up some wattage, to power some more heated gear.

I know that somebody is going to pile onto me with a lecture about volts, watts, and amps. I am all ears--please instruct.

PD

I like the FH012AA reg/rect. It runs nice and cool and puts out a very steady voltage (14.7v if I remember correctly). It is a little larger and will not mount in the same location. I put mine above the airbox under the seat.

I would only recommend switching to the FH012AA if you:
a) upgraded your stator
and/or
b) have a variable electrical load (such as the ability to turn off the lights, which would make a shunt type regulator run hotter)

Otherwise, as long as the reg/rect is sized correctly for the bike's electrical system, why bother? If you just want to relocate the stock unit, I think you can do that without cutting any wire. If you're trying to squeeze some more juice out, then going to thicker wires from the stator all the way to the battery, or shortening them up will probably help a bit.


The Shorai batteries are simply awesome- if you're in need of a battery replacement you can't go wrong with one of them.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:23 PM   #41780
purpledrake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingwombat View Post
I like the FH012AA reg/rect. It runs nice and cool and puts out a very steady voltage (14.7v if I remember correctly). It is a little larger and will not mount in the same location. I put mine above the airbox under the seat.

I would only recommend switching to the FH012AA if you:
a) upgraded your stator
and/or
b) have a variable electrical load (such as the ability to turn off the lights, which would make a shunt type regulator run hotter)

Otherwise, as long as the reg/rect is sized correctly for the bike's electrical system, why bother? If you just want to relocate the stock unit, I think you can do that without cutting any wire. If you're trying to squeeze some more juice out, then going to thicker wires from the stator all the way to the battery, or shortening them up will probably help a bit.


The Shorai batteries are simply awesome- if you're in need of a battery replacement you can't go wrong with one of them.
Hey Flying Wombat,

Thanks for the notes. My real issue is to squeeze more wattage out of the system, to power heated gear. IF I had more capacity after that, I might add a 12V adapter plug (for cell phone and/or GPS charger), but that would really be on the long term fantasy list. And, in addition, I do want to dump the steel cage stock headlight assembly (to lighten up, and to get more lumens). I don't need to change the Reg/Rec for the relocation effect (the stock unit fits just fine under the Clarke 4.7-gallon unit).

My older XL250's used to have On/Off switches for the headlights, but the constant ON suits me just fine.

At the end of the day, maybe I don't need to swap out the Reg/Rec???

Spud, where are you with advice when we need you??

PD
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:22 PM   #41781
flyingwombat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purpledrake View Post
Hey Flying Wombat,

Thanks for the notes. My real issue is to squeeze more wattage out of the system, to power heated gear. IF I had more capacity after that, I might add a 12V adapter plug (for cell phone and/or GPS charger), but that would really be on the long term fantasy list. And, in addition, I do want to dump the steel cage stock headlight assembly (to lighten up, and to get more lumens). I don't need to change the Reg/Rec for the relocation effect (the stock unit fits just fine under the Clarke 4.7-gallon unit).

My older XL250's used to have On/Off switches for the headlights, but the constant ON suits me just fine.

At the end of the day, maybe I don't need to swap out the Reg/Rec???

Spud, where are you with advice when we need you??

PD
You can easily replace the dash bulbs with led bulbs to save some power. See this post. The green bulb is really freaking bright, maybe too bright at night but great during the daytime.

People do power heated gear with the stock electrics... maybe not a whole lot at once but you can do it. If you want more you can upgrade the stator to a larger Honda unit (and reg/rect also).

If you want a really slick power outlet, check out HighwayDirtbikes.
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flyingwombat screwed with this post 04-25-2012 at 11:32 PM Reason: I felt like it
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:14 AM   #41782
Grover6
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Well, it is finally done. Got my USD swap finished. I had to change the fork seals, and oil today, but I got it buttoned back up and went for a ride to my buddies, to help him decide between a DR650 or KLR650 (he's to short to even get on my XR)

Last thing to do is install the Vapor w/dash, and I will be set. I also have a set of pivotpegz to put on.

The forks and wheel are from a CRF250R. Got them and the Corbin from Therealbigman, thanks again Marko. I went with a set of RSW triple clamps, which made this a pretty easy swap.

Here are some pics:




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Old 04-26-2012, 12:36 AM   #41783
kenny61
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Ive seen pink bikes before, but man even your equipment? Thats awesome
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:08 AM   #41784
Grover6
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Man, I had to go look at the bike just make sure it didn't get spray bombed by my wife!

It is definitely red. That is why I am not a photographer.

Thanks for pointing that out Kenny!
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:12 AM   #41785
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
Ive seen pink bikes before, but man even your equipment? Thats awesome
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover6 View Post
Man, I had to go look at the bike just make sure it didn't get spray bombed by my wife!

It is definitely red. That is why I am not a photographer.

Thanks for pointing that out Kenny!
You bike looks good, Grover. However, I like this pink motorcycle better.



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Old 04-26-2012, 01:43 AM   #41786
Grover6
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Thanks Spud!

I would have to agree, that is one of the best looking Katoom Adventures I have seen.
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:23 AM   #41787
XR650L_Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
Ive seen pink bikes before, but man even your equipment? Thats awesome
It's not awesome, its..... FAAAAAAABULOUUUUUUUUUUS!!!
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:15 AM   #41788
cypert2
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Have 2008 XRL that I haven't started in about a year. Started it yesterday[took a while] and it would run at idle but if you gave it any gas it would die. Any ideas what may be the problem.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:22 AM   #41789
Barron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cypert2 View Post
Have 2008 XRL that I haven't started in about a year. Started it yesterday[took a while] and it would run at idle but if you gave it any gas it would die. Any ideas what may be the problem.
Dirty carburetor, bad gas. Maybe it's just mad at you for neglecting it.

-Barron
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:31 AM   #41790
fritzcoinc
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Location: Cypress, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch67 View Post
I lost my Metric thread pitch gauge. What is the thread pitch of the brake lever-to-handlebar / turn signal mount-to-handlebar / throttle assembly-to-handlebar screws? I'm replacing mine with stainless and don't know exactly what to ask for online. M6- ? x20 It looks finer than 1.0.

0.75 perhaps?

Thanks
The parts manual gives all fastener sizes.
5 x .8
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