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Old 04-27-2012, 09:06 AM   #1
Krusty ... OP
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Helix gauges

Does anyone know if the instrument cluster from a Helix clone (cf250-t) directly swaps into the genuine Helix? I can get one brand new locally from Qlink for less than most used Honda dashes. I know they're physically identical, but I'm wondering if they use the same connectors and such.

Anyone done this?
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Old 04-27-2012, 05:51 PM   #2
Coopdway
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Have you asked over here?
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:55 PM   #3
creighta
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Fan is the same, water pump is the same, headlight is the same, muffler fits but chinese is even crappier than oem. That being said, I have a CF MOTO and a very off brand Summit. THe Summit is based on the old Helix and the moto is based on the late model helix. I think the cutoff date with the Helix models was around 1992, but am not positive.

Old ones have a little green to red odometer flag for oil changes and the newer ones have a digital control and a light to alert for oil change time. I am willing to bet that they interchange and I have heard good things about Qlink,I usually deal with CF Moto because we have a good dealer here close that will make things right.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:12 PM   #4
fullmetalscooter
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Don't mean to sound dumbass, then again thats just how I roll . THe that only way you can tell really is to take it with you compare. Whats wrong with the oem one? Light in dash not working? Often it's just the bulbs . If it's the fuel gages not working so you can't see some of the bars that happens all to often. Really anyone that works on eletronic repair could redo it for you. Eg like the tech repair shops you ll find at music shops.
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Old 04-28-2012, 05:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullmetalscooter View Post
Don't mean to sound dumbass, then again thats just how I roll . THe that only way you can tell really is to take it with you compare. Whats wrong with the oem one? Light in dash not working? Often it's just the bulbs . If it's the fuel gages not working so you can't see some of the bars that happens all to often. Really anyone that works on eletronic repair could redo it for you. Eg like the tech repair shops you ll find at music shops.

Well, turns out I misspoke when I said I could get the part locally. While the Qlink location is close, they only sell parts online .

The backlights work just fine, but none of the gauges. No speedo, fuel or temp. The clock digits light up, but it resets to 1:00 everytime the bike is started. The only number on the mechanical odometer that turns is the tenths, the others don't move.
I had it in an independent shop a while getting some other work done, and I had them give the dash a quick look, too. Nothing glaringly obvious in the wiring or connections.
Frankly, I'm not 100% sure replacing the cluster (pun intended) will solve the trouble, but it seems a reasonable move if I can find one for a decent price , new or used.
I compared the Qlink part diagram to the Honda diagram and they are practically identical, down to the diagram part numbers.
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:21 PM   #6
bbishoppcm
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It sounds to me like you may have other issues... when you turn the key "on," it should run a segment test. Does it do this? The odometer not moving is not related to the digital display not working. I believe you have a faulty electrical connection. Also, I believe the clock is powered separately (it gets constant power from a step-down transformer or something... I really should take a look at the wiring diagram!).
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:45 PM   #7
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Just asking but do you do a dumb thing and not look at the fuses in glove box? The little square box in there on the left hand side. 10 Amp yellow plastic fuse going will often cause this issue . Had one go once and it will take out the head light and using the other one in there in it's place meant the guages don't work. Even if they look good put another one in and see if that works. Just so you know they are the not the standard auto size one but the smaller plastic fuses.
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:34 PM   #8
Krusty ... OP
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I really appreciate the replies .

I understand the odometer issue is mechanical, not electrical.

I will pull the fuses and swap them around to see if the interruption "moves". I did check the fuse and it wasn't blown- but I have had fuses fail on other vehicles that looked just fine.

I have an Elite 250 that does the segment test, so I'm familiar with that. If the Helix is doing that I couldn't tell because the display is blank.

Other than a failed fuel pump, there haven't been any other issues. Runs great...
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