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Old 04-29-2012, 10:06 AM   #496
jezuar
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: SPAIN
Oddometer: 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by velofleche View Post
Bike intermittently fails to start when warm. Seems to have plenty of cranking amps to turn but won't fire up. Only solution i have thus far discovered is to walk away for 10mins. At least for now that seems to work, But for obvious reasons i am looking to resolve this, would greatly appreciate any input?
Same here else, I think it's the sensor temperature in the radiator

That makes me think that the warning light check high temperature multifunction display does not light in the pre-ride check.

jezuar screwed with this post 04-29-2012 at 10:19 AM
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:14 PM   #497
FinnDuro
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 356
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Kool View Post
Still thinking the cause for bad starting on a hot engine is the autodecompression lever. Lever stuck in "closed" position. Compression too big, starter has a hard job to cranck the engine, and bike won't start.
I checked mine the other day (removed valve cover) and found the side surface is a bit rough. I will remove it and try to polish the sides. Which I can't do on my own, because you need to release the cam chain tension "with a proper tool" before removal of the exhaust camshaft.
...which I don't have..
Max, you don't actually need a special tool for the cam chain. The chain has just enough slack in it, to remove the camshafts as is. First remove the intake camshaft, then the exhaust autocomp side camshaft can be popped out, as well. Same story when you need to adjust your valve cleareances. Been there done that.

I'd check the valve clearances, intake side may be too tight - resulting in bad hot starting especially.
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Old 05-03-2012, 04:11 AM   #498
dajg
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Angola heading north...
Oddometer: 65
does anyone have a step by step guide to checking valve clearances? what tools are required and what measurements are you looking for?

cheers
dave
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Old 05-03-2012, 04:33 AM   #499
FinnDuro
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 356
Quote:
Originally Posted by dajg View Post
does anyone have a step by step guide to checking valve clearances? what tools are required and what measurements are you looking for?

cheers
dave
The procedure is the same as for earlier F650GS/Dakar models. We just have less stuff to remove.
So F650.com FAQs ( http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/Valve_Shim_Change_FAQ_GS.htm ) get it done. I used the "Alternative method/ABS bikes" method describe there, as it is the easiest, least parts off type of method.
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:43 PM   #500
Colebatch
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny London
Oddometer: 3,808
Quote:
Originally Posted by Miguel Pedro View Post
KTM uses the same free wheel and is cheaper!!
Can you give us the KTM part number please Miguel?
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Old 05-04-2012, 04:27 AM   #501
joenuclear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colebatch View Post
Can you give us the KTM part number please Miguel?
Walter, it looks like the part # is in the picture.
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Old 05-04-2012, 04:49 PM   #502
Colebatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joenuclear View Post
Walter, it looks like the part # is in the picture.
Hmmmm Just checked it on another computer and sure enough there is a picture of the part number.

For some reason it wasnt loading on my other computer :)
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:43 PM   #503
jtw000
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A KTM part cheaper than a BMW part? This is a sign of the apocalypse. The world is going to end this year! In England they're twice or three times more expensive, in Thailand it's the other way round but here, the BMW dealers are pretty terrible.
I have an issue. My Garmin GPS packed in. Does that qualify? It was mounted on the bike at the time.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:00 AM   #504
DESERT SCORPION
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: SINGLE TRACK IN THE WOODS
Oddometer: 84
I luv my bmw

I love my BMW even though it stalls all the time on warmup.
I love my BMW even though it has a rear brake that squeals like a pig when I use it.
I love my BMW even though the rear brake is dragging. Maybe that's why it squeals like a pig.
I love my BMW even though attempts to bleed the rear master cylinder add air to the system.
I love my BMW even though now the rear brake is mushy as a marshmallow about to fall off the stick.
I love my BMW even though it appears that the rear master cylinder is trash & only costs $175 to replace.
I love my BMW even though there is no rebuild kit for this glorious master cylinder.
I love my BMW even though the offending assembly got trashed because it holds water.
I love my BMW even though the sealing boot of said assembly seals well at the pushrod, but not at all at the housing.
I love my BMW even though this worthless boot acts just like a Dixie cup full of water and stays wet internally eternally. I love my BMW even though this condition has corroded everything in sight at the mouth of this crumby little assembly.
I love my BMW even though it gives me writers cramp venting.

THE SCORPION








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Old 05-25-2012, 11:33 AM   #505
dakardad
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Joined: May 2006
Location: SLC/Boulder, Ut.
Oddometer: 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakardad View Post
07 X-
No problems, nada.
TT tank, canister removed.
I dont even know for sure what kind of battery it has.
It starts every time and isnt weak. Year two.
7k. Valves at 6k, perfect.
Frequent oil changes-Lucas synthetic 20-50 motorcycle specific.
I even bent my shifter, bashed it back with a rock, didn't break.
Golden bike, I love it.
As of today at 22k. I have toasted 2 batts. ABS motor replaced (warranty.. Whew!). The key switch shorted nd melted on a ride, had to be towed. Behr rims suck but are still turning.
Stock suspension. A bunch of tires.
Love this bike.
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Old 05-27-2012, 05:35 AM   #506
DESERT SCORPION
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: SINGLE TRACK IN THE WOODS
Oddometer: 84
Rear brakes

Model: xChallenge
Year: 2007
ABS: yes
Mileage at time of issue: 17K
Date of occurrence: last few weeks
Modifications (if any): Leo Vince exhaust, canistectomy, hand guards, lots of minor tweaks
Description of Failure(s): rear brake drags & squeaks when applied
Resolution (if any): Attempted to bleed rear brake, but only succeeded in introducing more air to system. After inspecting the dirty, corroded condition of the mouth of the rear master cylinder, I believe the air was being drawn in here. Removed and cleaned master cyl. Filed down the offending casting seams that caused the poor seal. Pumped fresh brake fuild through it, reinstalled. Sealed the boot to the housing with RTV. Added a small vent hole near the pushrod end of the boot. Bled rear brake with additional proceedure of cracking the fitting on top of the ABS motor. So far, so good. The rear rotor is worn and slightly warped. EBC MD810C on order. If needed I may also order this: http://www.oppracing.com/product_dis...lack-wpush-rod This appears to be the BMW rear master cylinder, without the BMW price.
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:46 AM   #507
Miguel Pedro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colebatch View Post
Can you give us the KTM part number please Miguel?
Hi Colebatch!

KTM part nº 58440026000 cost me 75€
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:42 PM   #508
tenfive0
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Oddometer: 82
New Battery

I have a 2008 Xcountry and was having an intermittent stalling problem right after start ups for about a year. If I started the bike and get on it right away and take off without warming up for a few minutes the bike would stall exactly at the same spot ½ a city block away from my house. I’d pull the clutch in and push the starter button and it would always fire right back up and not stall again until the next time upon a cold start up and a fast get away. If I’d let the bike warm up for about 30 to 45 seconds without taking off the bike wouldn’t stall at all.
Earlier this year I was teaching my 14 year old son to ride the bike and he was doing low speed maneuvers cruising around in low RPM’s. The bike stalled and wouldn’t start. We tried to pop start it with no luck. Pushed the bike home put it on the charger and it was fine until last week. I had to go to the bank and I was in a hurry. I cold started the bike after it had sat for a few days. I got to the same EXCACT spot as usual and the bike stalled. I pulled in the clutch hit the started button and it fired right back up with no problem. The bike ran fine the next 10 miles on the way to the bank. I pulled up to the drive window and shut the bike off. I did what needed to be done with the bank and turned the key, hit the button and nothing. The bike wouldn’t start. Figured I’d let it sit awhile because I’ve read sometimes if you let some of the Xbikes cool down they’d start. After cooling down still nothing, the bike wouldn’t start. Turns out I replaced the battery the next day after needing a pickup truck to get the bike home. After replacing the battery the bike seems to be running smoother with more balls. Got on the bike this morning in a hurry and took off without stalling. It appears the new battery chased the gremlin away

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Old 08-05-2012, 06:32 AM   #509
August West
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Stevensville, MT
Oddometer: 506
need help taking ignition switch apart

Sposed to be leaving on week long ride in a coupla hours, bike is DOA. I need help taking the bottom half of the ignition switch apart. I can see that the round bottom seems to separate. How do I get it apart.

Thanks!!
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:50 AM   #510
Butters
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: NoVA
Oddometer: 2,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by August West View Post
Sposed to be leaving on week long ride in a coupla hours, bike is DOA. I need help taking the bottom half of the ignition switch apart. I can see that the round bottom seems to separate. How do I get it apart.

Thanks!!
It's been awhile since I inspected mine, but I thought it just snaps together. I used a couple flathead micro screwdrivers to release the tabs and then it separates. At least, that's my recollection. My wires/solder joint were fine.
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