KTM LC4 (640) Thread Index

[gunnerbuck]

Originally Posted by wherearewe?

the engine turns over yea but im also having issues kick starting. not sure why.... ive removed the carby for a good cleanout as this was overdue anyway, so as my shed is lacking decent lighting im going to put it back in when day breaks and see how i go.
cheers

A weak battery will also make it hard to start as the lower voltage will give a less than ideal spark...

If your carefull you can fit the positive on the jumper cable right to the battery and then grab something on the frame that will give a good negative feed... Sometimes if the jumper clamp is clubby it may be better to fit a short length of wire to the battery and then attach the clamp to that...

[ErikY.]

Originally Posted by wherearewe?

the engine turns over yea but im also having issues kick starting. not sure why.... ive removed the carby for a good cleanout as this was overdue anyway, so as my shed is lacking decent lighting im going to put it back in when day breaks and see how i go.
cheers

Could be the autodecompressor lobe is worn. I went through the same thing and I did everything you've done ie: electrical/carb/choke, or are thinking about doing to fix it. Starter wouldn't fire it and kickstarter eventually didn't help either.

Note that the autodecomp is a complete different thing than the manual.

Erik

[Tonicu]

Originally Posted by laramie LC4

you had to have done something wrong. you should never have to loosen that many turns to adjust the valves.

you need to go back in and try again. don't worry. it took me a couple tries the first time i adjusted mine. once you get it though, you will never have issues again.

to find TDC-C the trick i do is;

1) watch intake valves while turning the rear wheel. once the intake valves compress and begin to release, you know you are on the compression stroke.

2) remove plug (if you haven't already) and get a plastic drink straw. lower this into cylinder, then turn wheel again. you will see the straw rising into the air as the piston rises in the cylinder. stop when its at it's highest

3) double check by using the sight glass on the right side of the engine. you will see a timing mark inside the little sight glass if you are at the right spot. adjust as needed with the rear wheel.

4) check and make sure you can "wiggle" the rocker arms and no pressure is being placed on them. if you can't, you have done something wrong and need to go back to step 1.

now you can measure your gap. some people use the crank locking bolt at this point to keep the engine from turning. if you are changing your oil this is cool, if not you cant access it easily. just make sure you check to see that the timing mark is still good after, and before each adjustment.

take your time, double check everything. you will figure it out.

laramie

Thanks a lot, Laramie.
I had already followed that procedure you suggest, but after trying again the result is still the same, tapping noise from the valves/elephants feet. Could it be de auto decomp kicks slightly in, therefore causing a false read?

[Tom S]

Originally Posted by wherearewe?

oh and if i try to jump start from a car am i right in thinking to not have the car running and connect the neutral to the bikes frame? is this safe? dont want to risk anything here....

Correct.

[wherearewe?]

well, after cleaning out the carb i managed to kick her into life, and running fine. even after a while after shutting down the e starter turned it over but very weak. now after a ride its back to clicking..... gotta be a short somewhere.. but yet to find it.
thanks for the help tho ill let you know the seed of this annoying problem once i find it!

cheers

[Superpacman13]

Has anyone ever removed the passenger pegs? Mine have tried to kill me a couple times, and they look fairly integral to the subframe of the 640A. Any input is appreciated.

[dnrobertson]

Originally Posted by Superpacman13

Has anyone ever removed the passenger pegs? Mine have tried to kill me a couple times, and they look fairly integral to the subframe of the 640A. Any input is appreciated.

nearly the first thing I did when I bought the bike 3 years ago. (removed pegs and brackets). No problems, but I did get the sub frame strengthened about two years ago.

I never thought they were integral to the subframe myself. (But my wife says I don't think a lot )

[Low594]

Originally Posted by Superpacman13

Has anyone ever removed the passenger pegs? Mine have tried to kill me a couple times, and they look fairly integral to the subframe of the 640A. Any input is appreciated.

I removed mine, since I dont like passengers and my box frames needed to be bent to work with them on. Its been over a year with no issues. Mine just hangs off the subframe and doesnt support anything.

[greendog75]

Has anbody got a under the bar steering damper and mount they want to offload for a 625 SXC or adventure? I'm running a large tank and a over the bar mount seems to get in the way of the cap.

Thanks

Greendog

[skibum69]

Originally Posted by Superpacman13

Has anyone ever removed the passenger pegs? Mine have tried to kill me a couple times, and they look fairly integral to the subframe of the 640A. Any input is appreciated.

I too don't think they're necessary, the 3 pieces my subframe was in when I got home from my last trip had nothing to do with them, however they do make great tiedown points for my panniers

[wherearewe?]

ok, just to let yall know. i pulled out the starter today and brushes are finished. starter case had debri inside so tomorrow ill organise a temp solution for newies.
choke cable also dislodged/ busted hence the tricky kick start as she seems to like a wee bit of choke in the morning..
gone through all the wiring now and tidied up so fingers crossed i will be ready for a decent ride soon.

cheers all.

steve

[Low594]

Originally Posted by wherearewe?

ok, just to let yall know. i pulled out the starter today and brushes are finished. starter case had debri inside so tomorrow ill organise a temp solution for newies.
choke cable also dislodged/ busted hence the tricky kick start as she seems to like a wee bit of choke in the morning..
gone through all the wiring now and tidied up so fingers crossed i will be ready for a decent ride soon.

cheers all.

steve

Contact Rick's Electric, they carry alot more than just the new motor and brush plate that they show on a search!

[clintnz]

Originally Posted by wherearewe?

ok, just to let yall know. i pulled out the starter today and brushes are finished. starter case had debri inside so tomorrow ill organise a temp solution for newies.
choke cable also dislodged/ busted hence the tricky kick start as she seems to like a wee bit of choke in the morning..
gone through all the wiring now and tidied up so fingers crossed i will be ready for a decent ride soon.

cheers all.

steve

I had the local auto electrician measure up my old starter brushes & they found & fitted some car ones that were the same size. They are still going strong 50K km later.

Great to see someone selling new starter motors & parts for the LC4 online though, do Ricks ship internationally?

Cheers
Clint

[Low594]

Originally Posted by clintnz

I had the local auto electrician measure up my old starter brushes & they found & fitted some car ones that were the same size. They are still going strong 50K km later.

Great to see someone selling new starter motors & parts for the LC4 online though, do Ricks ship internationally?

Cheers
Clint

They are a top notch dealer with great customer service, I would think they would shipp all over ,but I dont know for sure

[Motorrad]

Does anyone know... on the dash of a adventure. what makes the light for the indicators (turn signals, low fuel light, etc).. if its LED or a filiment bulb,,,,,



also..

the FI light... anyone know where the corisponding plug is on the wire harness that isnt used?

Im looking to tap into it, and use it as a charging system monitor .. and utilize the FI light in the dash...

http://www.planet-equipment.com/ chargealert