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Old 04-22-2012, 12:30 PM   #2161
hankgs
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^^^^Front End^^^^

Damn, that is a nice headlight/cowl set up! The only thing I hate about the MM is the "parts bin" headlight- it is FUGLY!
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:27 PM   #2162
bikecat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankgs View Post
Damn, that is a nice headlight/cowl set up! The only thing I hate about the MM is the "parts bin" headlight- it is FUGLY!
At the risk of being lynched, I tend to agree. The HP2E has a nicer headlight than the MM, although the MM has more goodies like tacho, counter-balancer etc.

On cooling, how many notches are you guys hitting when fully warmed up? Mine is only 2 or 1 notch from the mark and that worries me.
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:53 PM   #2163
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I have been playing with my suspension, and I do not understand this.

1. In the MM manual, page 44, it is stated that if one wants to reduce rebound on the rear suspension, to turn it in the direction of "a" i.e. clockwise (when viewed from the top). At page 45, it is stated for Rebound setting, basic setting, rear "turn setting screw as far as it go in the counterclockwise direction, as viewed from above, then turn it 19 clicks in the clockwise direction".

This is opposite from what seems to be the usual rebound adjustment for Ohlins usually - see http://www.ohlins.com/Checkpoint-Ohl...bound-Damping/ i.e. clockwise for close, anti-clockwise for open. For the HP2 shock the Ohlins site is also different from the MM manual - see http://www.ohlins.com/Our-products-n...-sport/BM-688/

If the MM manual is right, then what the manual stipulates is to fully open the rebound then close 19 clicks, which is a departure from the usual practice of closing it fully, then open it X number of clicks.

Any view?
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:03 PM   #2164
GSMarc
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All is right.
In fact, due to the position of the nut :

Turn adjusting screw as far as it will go in the counterclockwise


direction, as viewed from above, then turn it 1
9 clicks in the clockwise direction.

means in fact to tighten the nut and minus 19 after.
You must imagine being under the lovely bike before setting this parameter.

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Old 04-24-2012, 07:30 AM   #2165
schlim66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankgs View Post
Damn, that is a nice headlight/cowl set up! The only thing I hate about the MM is the "parts bin" headlight- it is FUGLY!
You've heard the expression "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder", well I think that twin eyeball thing is about as Fugly as you can get! I don't mind the stock HP2e light and I really like the look of the MM's fairing and headlight especially with the carbon surround.
To each his own!

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Old 04-26-2012, 06:15 AM   #2166
bikecat
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Need some help here ...

Can someone measure the remaining travel left on the stock front forks? i.e. distance from of the travel to the lowest point the forks seals had been from riding. I think a cable tie on the shiny bit will help.

I am not using all the travel, and want to investigate why.

Cheers
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:49 PM   #2167
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I never use all the travel, I think going to the lowest point isn't necessary or even good.

If I remember well, I use only 2/3 of the remaining travel when I'm on the bike.

I'm about 240 lbs with full equipment.
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Old 04-28-2012, 07:21 PM   #2168
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Have decided to try set it up properly.

Here's the extent of the travel that I am now using. I will tinker with the weight of the oil and the air gap and hope to achieve a smoother ride. As of now it is fine at high speeds but at low speeds I feel every bump. Anyone out there has similar problems?

Also, does anyone know the weight of the rider that the stock springs are for?



Keep you guys posted.

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Old 04-28-2012, 11:28 PM   #2169
GSMarc
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Yesterday I did a little ride of 55 miles with the MM.

Here, roads are very bad and the front of the MM is hard.
When I came back, I had the cable tie at half, like yours.

The MM needs perfect road, it's the reason why I bought a HP2E and set it up with the MM wheels, keeping original HP2E fork.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:30 AM   #2170
Macroenie
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going to the dentist...

...with the MM at Rösner und Rose on the 8th & 9th of June.

to swap the left and right ´teeths´ for some polished ones and to have my cavities replaced by some rebored ones which will be filled with forged wössner pistons and connecting rods

Stay tuned.
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Old 05-02-2012, 02:16 AM   #2171
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price without advertising 349 EUR + 26 EUR for clearcoating which is a necessity because of the otherwise bare aluminium cooling ribs.
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:50 AM   #2172
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Originally Posted by Macroenie View Post
price without advertising 349 EUR + 26 EUR for clearcoating which is a necessity because of the otherwise bare aluminium cooling ribs.

Are you going mod crazy Macroenie? Looks like your on a serious hunt for upgrades

What about the mods on page 123? (page 123 of this thread) Now that is an interesting mod project (1, 2 or more...)
In case you happen to come across a nice rear-end remake (carbon preverably), please share .

hawideri screwed with this post 05-03-2012 at 01:32 PM Reason: see ?123 page below
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:54 AM   #2173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macroenie View Post
...with the MM at Rösner und Rose on the 8th & 9th of June.

to swap the left and right ´teeths´ for some polished ones and to have my cavities replaced by some rebored ones which will be filled with forged wössner pistons and connecting rods

Stay tuned.
If you can post details of their rebuild, what they modified and what it cost that would be a great help. Be sure to run a 'before' dyno chart so we all can see what was altered and how much it was improved.
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Old 05-02-2012, 12:48 PM   #2174
BMWJustin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawideri View Post
Are you going mod crazy Macroenie? Looks like your on a serious hunt for upgrades

What about the mods on page 123? Now that is an interesting mod project (1, 2 or more...)
In case you happen to come across a nice rear-end remake (carbon preverably), please share .
Can you link the "page 123" mods? I can't find it. Thanks!
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:21 PM   #2175
Macroenie
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Originally Posted by hillbillypolack View Post
If you can post details of their rebuild, what they modified and what it cost that would be a great help. Be sure to run a 'before' dyno chart so we all can see what was altered and how much it was improved.

a) BigBore cylinders (103mm to bring capacity up from 1170 to 1216ccm) - 1185 EUR
b) Wössner pistons - 360 EUR
c) Wössner connecting roads - 660 EUR
d) Connecting rod bearings - 63 EUR
e) Reworked cylinder heads - 849 EUR
f) 4 Light tappets (if that is the correct translation...) - 160 EUR
g) 8 light valve adjustment screws - 95 EUR
h) New oilfilter + Motorex oil - 67 EUR
i) Fitting and tuning. - 624 EUR


I have a before dyno, see some pages back, but that´s from an other brand of dyno so prone to differ from theirs.
I´m not sure if they will do a before run but I think so, if not I´ll ask.

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