|05-02-2012, 10:52 PM||#1|
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Where the valley rises up to the shifting mountain
Installing a SW MOTECH rack on a TDM (long and image heavy)
MK 1 TDM 850 SW Motech rack mounts installation,
Part I Disclaimer:
I am not a professional mechanic. The one part of the SW MOTECH installation instructions I received clearly stated you should have the rack mounts installed by a professional, ie not someone like me. You should also wrap yourself in bubble wrap and stay on the couch, and never eat bacon. Should you choose to listen to me you get what you paid for my advice. If you have suggestions, corrections of improvements please feel free to post them below. This is just my attempt to save others the aggravation I went through sorting the wrack out.
Part II: Preparation
You save your pennies (lots of them too- these rack mounts aint cheap) and order the parts. The arrive and the directions (the important parts that tell you what the parts do) are in German! Got un Himmel Colonel Klink! I have no idea why- perhaps no one at the factory speaks English well enough to translate but really haven’t these people ever gotten furniture from Ikea? There are ways to work this out without translating but it was it is, so with some preparation we shall commence the installation. If you are the kind of person who installs their own stuff you should have the necessary tools: metric wrenches and sockets and an allen head set. The one thing you may not have is Loctite thread locker- so go get some! They are not kidding about this. Failure to secure these bolts could result in injury or death so don’t get stingy about this little step. You will also need (IMHO) longer exhaust mounting bolts- the one that were on my bike were flanged 8x1.25 by 30, so I got two flanged 8x1.25 by 40 bolts with self locking nuts. They were $1.60 US at the Home Despot. I can only imagine what they would cost wholesale if SW Motech had included them in the kit. These are important because once you add the exhaust rack mount the bolt is too short by 5mm. In order to get the full mechanical advantage of a bolt you need to have t least one full thread showing. How this escaped the fastidious Germans who made your kit is beyond me.
Also clear out a good work space. There are a lot of small bolts and screws and if your are a butterfingers like me you will be dropping the little buggers and searching all over for them.
Part III: Clear the decks! And let’s get started.
1) Remove the seat and tailpiece. Be happy, this may be the only thing you ever do to your TDM that doesn’t require you take of the fairing and gas tank.
2) Your set comes with one piece that looks like I____I that mounts under your fender through the license plate holes. There are two cylindrical spacers that inset the mount towards the wheel.
3) There are 2 of each of the following parts: turn signal holders (as you will be moving them) 2 frame mounts (the ones with two quick release holes) and two exhaust mounts, which are flat with one quick release holes.
4) Mounting the turn signals to the relocating mounts though the reattach the plates using the large allen head screw and matching bolt.
5) Pick a side: I did all of the left then the right mounting points.
6) Attach the frame mounts to the existing hole in the frame as shown in the pictures below- don’t super tighten them as you will be adjusting the exact orientation to the racks.
7) Remove the existing exhaust mounting bolt and mate it to its matching nut and put it in your random bolt tin; you never know when you might need it. Replace with your new bolts sliding it through- the SW MOTECH exhast mounting point fits on the inside of the whole shebang. Again not to tight you will be adjusting it soon.
8) Now the fun part- the fender mount. The long skinny bolts that attach this required a few washes to be wide emough I wasn’t afraid of them just tearing up the plastic. Some came with the kit but I added an extra just to be sure. Slide the bolts (washers on) Through the fender and then the spacer. Attach the mount and then thread one bolt. Repeat with the other side. I found myself wishing for a third hand here but I wrench alone so I just kept at it till it was done. These you can lock tite and torque down as there is no adjustment for it. Everything else will have to move to fit them.
9) Take your quick release bolts and put them through the rack mount, then take the keeper spring and mount them on. This will keep the quick release bolt from flying off should your mount point disengage. Probably pretty hard to find a small black bolt on tarmac so do it right.
10) Now get the rack mount for that side; the two quick disconnect points that are close together are oriented up and that should let you figure out which one to use. Attach the rack to the fender mount and then line everything up and attach at all four points. With the rack mount attached FIRMLY loctite and attach all the bolts.
11) Repeat this procedure on the other side.
12) Check at 50km and ensure the bolts are tight.
Hope this helps someone out someday.
So here are some photos to clarify things:
Here is the alignment of the turn signal mount
This is the frame mount- note the shorter one in front.
this is the exhaust mount.
This shows the existing exhaust mounting bolt with the replacement. The longer one is the one you want.
Close up of the exhaust mount to show the quick release attachment point. When installing all of these will point towards the center of the bike.
This is the quick release keeper spring. You will have 8 of these little buggers and they bounce like billy-ho when you drop them!
here is an image showing the keeper spring doing its job.
This is your quick release bolt.. an ingenious piece of Tuetonic engineering and worth the outragous prices they charge.
Here is the spacer and mounting bolt
Here is the mounted rack to give you an idea what you should end up with.
Starkmojo screwed with this post 05-02-2012 at 11:01 PM Reason: because I am a ditz.
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