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Old 01-04-2011, 06:39 PM   #16
Plenty of seasoning
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: West Nebraska
Oddometer: 1,018
My thoughts...

The studs are a MUST if you want to maintain sanity and avoid having to dig tools out of the garage wall. I made my studs from countersunk allen bolts, heads ground down, so that I had a way of driving them in, as my local fastener supplier doesn't speaky-da-metric too well and didn't have setscrews that size. I am looking into reversing the rear frame clamps as well and mounting some "studs" (actually bolts with a spacer and nut) as well, as I find getting a wrench on the nut at the back, particularly on the right side, almost as big a PITA as the front bolts were. Reason suggests this set up won't be quite as strong as the right way around but...I will let you know how that goes if I get a chance to do it soon.
Hmm...could this be done with the lower tank bolts too...?

Originally Posted by lenny6753 View Post
Thanks for all the help. I haven't got around to working on 'em again but will this week. The stud mounts are a good idea.

AdvRat - The only real reason I chose the HB bars over SW was I liked the look of the HB's better, for what that is worth. I cannot comment on the design or sturdiness of one vs the other.
2009 KTM Adventure
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:13 PM   #17
Corn Fed
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Indy
Oddometer: 42
Dangnit...I wish I had read this before galling the threads getting the $#(%*^ HB bars back on my bike today. It was my first shot at reinstalling them and I failed the class. I even tried gently lining up the hole with the smooth end of a tool that fit perfectly in the hole. The tanks not fitting particularly well didn't help matters.

It looks like I will be tapping and installing some studs.

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Old 05-02-2012, 06:16 AM   #18
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Joined: Mar 2012
Oddometer: 85
If you will remove your glove box and loosen the top bolt that secures the tank to the frame it makes it a breeze to get your bottom bolt in. Otherwise, good luck!
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:16 AM   #19
Joined: Jul 2009
Oddometer: 30
You need to instal the studs on the battery box
I also use a nylock nut at the bottom on each side side in place of the KTM metal tab washer nut thingy
Also dont forget to make sure the back bracket round the frame tube is on solidly
Michaelmy in Fulham
06 HP2, 67 Honda Monkey (since new!)
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:44 AM   #20
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Sunnyvale, California
Oddometer: 6,947
Take one of the screws that goes into the battery box plate with you to an auto parts place (Kragen/Oreilly's, or Grand auto or whatever) and buy a set of studs there (I think I paid $4 for four) makes it easy to do. and Be sure you put the plate on first because it wont slip over the studs. Studs have to be installed through it. Using that and doing an oil drain hose makes it easy and you dont have to pull the tanks to do an oil change.
Topes never seem to make me go any faster.
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:14 AM   #21
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Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Main Street, Shedd, Oregon
Oddometer: 2,180
Get or make two studs, specs are

8-1.25mm, 50 to 60 mm long, full thread.

You can buy 50 mm long full thread bolts and hack off their heads.

Screw the studs in, washer, nut, washer, crash bar, washer, nylock nut last.

Loosen the top tank mounting bolt to make it much easier to line up.

Put grease on all the threads, no loctite.
"Dad, can I get a motorcycle when I grow up?"
"Son, you can't do both"
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