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Old 05-03-2012, 03:53 AM   #2716
Poolside
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post

You could use a carbon rod to keep the hole.
What a great idea.


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Old 05-03-2012, 04:17 AM   #2717
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Quote:
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The bigger question is why or how did it break?
Say the pin retainer falls off, and the pin slides out of one of the yokes. If the clutch cable is pulled, the leverage force on the pin from the actuator rod will prolly snap off the other yoke.


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Old 05-03-2012, 05:13 AM   #2718
David R
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After reading all this, I checked and greased the one on my airhead. A few pages on one repair.
Next for the fun of it is the broken exhaust stud in my oil head.

Here it is. Stud broke off removing the exhaust. A little was sticking out.

I screwed a new 8mm nut on and TIG welded it to the stud using 316 LSI .045" filler with a few amps.

The bolt broke again, nice and clean, so I welded another nut on. This time it was flush with the head. I started the arc
right on the bolt and got it as hot as I could. Then I welded the nut on and let it cool for a short while.

This time the rest of the stud came out.

I do this a lot.





David
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David R screwed with this post 05-03-2012 at 10:54 AM
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:42 AM   #2719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
After reading all this, I checked and greased the one on my airhead. A few pages on one repair.
More pages is good, lotsa pictures, everybody loves pictures.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
Next for the fun of it is the broken exhaust stud in my oil head.

Here it is. Stud broke off removing the exhaust. A little was sticking out.

I screwed a new 8mm nut on and TIG welded it to the stud using 316 LSI .045" filler with a few amps.
Isn't 316 stainless? Why didn't you use something cool, like ER70S-2? What is LSI?

Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
The bolt broke again, nice and clean, so I welded another nut on. This time it was flush with the head. I started the arc
right on the bolt and got it as hot as I could.
Is the head cast iron or alum? If alum, apparently it sinks the heat fast enough so there's no alum damage?
Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
Then I welded the nut on and let it cool for a short while.

This time the rest of the stud came out.

I do this a lot.

David
So you were welding in the bottom of a hole about 8mm across and 8mm deep? That's pretty tight, kudos. Was this out of position or on the bench?

Welding repairs are cool.
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:47 PM   #2720
David R
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Mr. -2 I feel like I'm taking a test.

316 LSi., I think its low carbon high Silicon Not sure on that, its what it says on the rod.

I used to always Utectic 680 stick for this application. Its expensive and hard to come by. The weld will build up on the bolt and the slag helps keep it from welding to the hole. I was told 316 is what 680 really is, not some miracle rod.

Once I started to do it with TIG, I tried E70s-6 which works fine, but the stainless seems to flow better and seems to take the twisting better. That was the only stainless rod I had in .045". The rest is 1/16 or 3/32.

Sometimes when I do that I have a pile of nuts on the floor.

This time the aluminum head was in the vice.


Here is another one. Dodge pick up, lug nuts would not come off. I burned this out with the arc air. 1/8" rod, I don't remember how many amps. Less than 150.





`

David R 1 Lug nut zero! No damage to the wheel. Replace wheel stud and continue changing tires....
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:04 PM   #2721
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David R, I use the same method for all broken studs..stuck bolts, I had one on a Merc outboard that was being stupid, kept moving alittle or so I thought, then would break off, finally I got an idea to use my SnapOn 3/8 18v impact....just hit the trigger alittle to let it hammer...lo and behold..the socket started spinning and out it came...found it works very well on the last five or six I have tried it on.:)

There is a shelf full of those nuts welded to all sorts of broken threaded object in my shop, one of them is actually what is left of a stud, tap and ez out all in one...:)
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:50 AM   #2722
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Quote:
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Mr. -2 I feel like I'm taking a test.
David R 1 Lug nut zero! No damage to the wheel. Replace wheel stud and continue changing tires....


David:
Thanks for the answers. I don't do much shop time and having these ideas in my head helps solve problems when they show up.
Mr. -2
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:11 AM   #2723
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Question TIGism

...having not read this entire thread......what's the consensus on a small TIG set up for a beginner? Not a beginner at welding, but would like to learn TIG and do some bike frame mods and such.
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:10 PM   #2724
David R
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Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
...having not read this entire thread......what's the consensus on a small TIG set up for a beginner? Not a beginner at welding, but would like to learn TIG and do some bike frame mods and such.
Go for it!
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:59 PM   #2725
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...having not read this entire thread......what's the consensus on a small TIG set up for a beginner? Not a beginner at welding, but would like to learn TIG and do some bike frame mods and such.
Tools aren't an expense, they're an investment. If you're a 'garage guy' and under 50, buy a good one; you'll giggle every time you use it. How do I know? I bought mine in 1993 (before all the new cool shit came out), and I'm still giggling. Me pointing to my TIG in the corner----->

The DR650 has a phillips head screw for a floatbowl drain. But they're stupid tight and easy to strip. I'm going to buy a few and weld allen heads on them. Fixt. The cool thing about a good TIG is how small you can weld.

The Miller Dynasty 200 is expensive, and very cool. Prorating costs over a lifetime, not too bad. You can also plug it into any outlet and it sets itself for the voltage.

A good unit will also be ready when you want to learn aluminum.

If you go too cheap, you'll hate it and it will sit in the corner collecting dust.
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:52 AM   #2726
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Quote:
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...having not read this entire thread......what's the consensus on a small TIG set up for a beginner? Not a beginner at welding, but would like to learn TIG and do some bike frame mods and such.
The Lincoln 175 inverter is a good starter machine and should be reasonable cost wise.
The V200T is still the machine for DC but no longer a current model.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:30 AM   #2727
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The Lincoln 175 inverter is a good starter machine and should be reasonable cost wise.
The V200T is still the machine for DC but no longer a current model.
I missed this: if you think you'll ever want to weld alum, the welder must have AC capabilities and that's when the cost starts going up.
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:58 PM   #2728
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I missed this: if you think you'll ever want to weld alum, the welder must have AC capabilities and that's when the cost starts going up.
I think the Invertec V205-T AC/DC might be outside the scope but would probably be the only other machine I would trade my V200T on.

Typically Lincoln stopped making the V200T.
Both 240 and 400 volt option,150 amp 100% duty cycle,it will weld thin wall purged tube in the morning and after lunch be putting a T.I.G root in followed by 4 mm electrodes without breaking a sweat.
Legend machine.
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:19 PM   #2729
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I paid $900 for this (Lincoln Precision TIG 185) and use it a lot for a hobbyist. It has pulse, AC etc. Pretty much does what I want, which is everything. I would love to play with a Dynasty but honestly until you know why you should be fiddling with all the settings you don't need something that complex.

TIG machines you can sell in a second if you get a good buy so don't worry about wasting money. I started with a chinese TIG clone, worked great for learning and I have to say welded excellent

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Old 05-11-2012, 09:51 PM   #2730
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Wow. This thread has been busy.

Nice repair on the aluminum casting. That guy did a fine job for you. It is nice that copper and aluminum dont like to join together. He made that work out quite nice.

Yes 316LSi or 308LSi or 309 LSi are all stainless mig wires that have low carbon and additional silicon to help the puddle flow. You always want to keep the carbon content low in stainless steel filler metals so that the carbon and chrome dont combine to make chrome carbides which leaves an area around the chrome carbide with less chrome that in turn will reduce the corrosion resistance of that area.

As far as TIG welders. The Precision TIG 175 became the Precision 185 and then morphed into the now Precision TIG 225. The cost of the 225 was a bit expensive so Lincoln reintroduced the 175 again. All are fine AC/DC TIG welders that use a 150 Amp aircooled torch. The torch is always the weak link in that it can weld for 6 out of 10 minutes at 150 Amps before it gets too hot and you need to let is rest for 4 minutes.

We still make the Invertec V205T as a DC only TIG welder and also the nicer Invertec V205T AC/DC which of course has AC for aluminum TIG welding. However since you are located in Austrialia they may have indeed stopped making it for the Austrialian market but it is still available in the US. I use the V205T AC/DC all the time and love it but the Predision TIG line is also very popular and they are transformer/rectifier machines where the V205 is an inverter.
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