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Old 05-29-2011, 10:59 AM   #1
Scheidty OP
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Question CB350 Cylinder Head Removal

Hey guys.

I've been attempting to replace a leaking cylinder head gasket (or points cover gasket, can't tell which one) on my 72 CB350. I have a couple online shop manuals and a clymer. I have a few questions about the process as I'm having trouble understanding some of the steps. I will be posting pics of the process as I go along as well. Any help is appreciated!

The one manual states to " Align the stator index mark to the "LT" on the A.C. Generator rotor (top dead centre of the exhaust stroke) to approximately 10 degrees ATDC and then remove the sprocket alignment bolt, followed by turning the rotor to align with a point approximately 10 degrees ATDC of the compression stroke and then remove the remaining sprocket setting bolt."

Does this just mean that I align the LT to the index mark, which should be the top dead centre of the exhaust stroke. Then move the rotor to 10 degrees ATDC? How do I know where ATDC is?

The Clymer states " Place a wrench on the alternator rotor bolt and rotate the engine until you have room to work on one of the camshaft sprocket retaining bolts. Remove that bolt, then rotate the engine until you can reach the remaining bolt and remove it. With the L mark on the cam sprocket facing upward, pull out the camshaft from the right side"

Is the process basically the same as the one in the shop manual? Which one is the better process? Thanks!

And also, should I be using gasket cement or any other adhesive when installing the new gaskets? Thanks again!

Here's a link to photobucket and some photos. I'll try to figure out how to post them on here though.

http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/x436/scheidty/

Scheidty screwed with this post 05-29-2011 at 11:36 AM
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Old 05-29-2011, 06:17 PM   #2
Horatio0163
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Hey hey! I just pulled the head on my cb350 this week! Likewise I have a variety of pdf Honda manuals and a Clymer's. The processes described are essentially the same. The Honda manuals are just specifying which bolt to remove first. The LT mark on the rotor indicates TDC (top dead center) on the left cylinder. In a 4-stroke engine the piston is at TDC twice-- exhaust/intake and compression/power.

The Honda manuals are telling you to find the exhaust/intake TDC (both rocker arms for the valves of the left cylinder should be tight--exhaust just closed and intake is just opening. I think the L mark on the cam sprocket will be down.), go just a little further to make access easier, and remove the sprocket bolt that you can get to.
Then you rotate the crankshaft one full revolution until you're back at LT-- the compression/power TDC (both rockers are loose,and I believe the L mark is visible on the cam sprocket.), go a little past it for easier access and remove the second bolt. Then you can slide the camshaft out the right side. It takes a bit of fiddling to get the shaft out, in my experience.

You'll figure it out. This isn't a terribly complex machine. Good luck and feel free to ask any questions you may have!
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Old 05-29-2011, 06:43 PM   #3
Scheidty OP
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Some photos




http://scheidty.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...819850_FvdTscS

Not sure if this will work for photos. I didn't manage to get all the side cover screws off. One of them, holding the points cover casing, is badly stripped. So I'm going to be picking up an extractor bit to try to get it out (I'm hoping it will work). Thank you for the reply and I'll let you know how it goes!
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:42 PM   #4
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Some photos. Is this wear normal? It's the same on all four "columns" near the cam chain.
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:44 PM   #5
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Managed to remove the side covers and take out the rocker arm pins and rocker arms.
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:46 PM   #6
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Three out of four rocker arms were smooth like the one in the photo. However, one of them had slight pitting near one of the edges, but looks like it shouldn't need to be replaced (based on the look of other folks rocker arms and magnitude of pitting).
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:49 PM   #7
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How can I tell if the leak is coming from the points cover gasket or the cylinder head gasket. There was some oil in the points cover area, which makes me think that it's just the points cover. However, if it ends up being the cylinder head, I'll have to remove the engine and tear down part of the top end again. What do you guys think?
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:08 PM   #8
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I'd say the wear shown in your picture is very not normal. It looks like some PO has done some modification. There isn't anything moving near there that would cause that kind of wear.

You've got it this far. Just replace both the head gasket and the point cover gasket. It's just another few minutes of work, and I'd say it's probably worth it. Plus then you can see the condition of your cylinders and test your valves for leakage.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:53 PM   #9
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Have a look here, lots of CB350 projects:



http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/index.php
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:22 PM   #10
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Cam chain roller. I'm assuming it's worn enough to warrant replacement.
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:25 PM   #11
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Took these two cam chain sprocket bolts out without realizing that the two are actually different. I"ll have to figure out which one goes where when I rebuild the engine. What special tools might I need to replace the cam chain roller?
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:54 PM   #12
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You should not need any special tools to replace the tensioner wheel, you may want to look at the slipper type cam tensioner, it's supposed to be pretty good. I'll find out once I get my engine running..got mine from boretech..
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:13 PM   #13
LashLarue
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sl350 cam removal on seized engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scheidty View Post
Managed to remove the side covers and take out the rocker arm pins and rocker arms.
Not my photo, same as earlier in thread:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/attac...1&d=1306892602

Sorry to revive an old thread but this is where I am on a rebuild of a 71 SL350. The engine is frozen and I am trying to get the cam out. The cam chain has almost no slack. I have one cam gear bolt removed but can't turn the engine to get to the second gear bolt.

Am I right to assume that it is time to snap the chain? Not sure how to do that and keep chain and broken parts from diving into engine. In fact I am not sure how to break the chain since it is all on the gear.

The engine is seized and there will be no alignment to TDC. Bet that causes problems later.

LashLarue screwed with this post 05-05-2012 at 05:15 PM Reason: photo
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:37 PM   #14
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or...

grind the pin heads and tap out a link. rags /magnet to catch loose bits.



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Old 05-06-2012, 05:29 AM   #15
Bloodweiser
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Do what you gotta do.
If it's seized, I'd be going through the bottom end too -
so I wouldn't worry about bits getting places they shouldn't.
It'll force you to be more thorough.
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