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Old 05-05-2012, 03:04 PM   #16
nwdub
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yeah I wouldn't have a problem with it. keep it inflated and don't put too much load on it and you should be fine.

keep the speed under 55mph though
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:14 PM   #17
PaigeIGGY
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If you havent purchased a case of new innertubes already....

Read this before you mount the Michelin? you have coming in the mail.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ht=neduro+tire

The key to successful tire changing is about 1 lb of pressure in the tube and a generous application of talc/baby powder on the tube and in the tire.
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:13 PM   #18
dirtysouthjacket OP
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Originally Posted by PaigeIGGY View Post
Read this before you mount the Michelin? you have coming in the mail.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ht=neduro+tire

The key to successful tire changing is about 1 lb of pressure in the tube and a generous application of talc/baby powder on the tube and in the tire.
Wow, thanks for the link. I had just watched some Youtube videos, but this went into much more detail. Thanks! Going to change the front today, so this will come in handy.
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:51 PM   #19
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I'd have gotten a tire grooving iron and seen how deep it went. The K761 has a LOT of rubber in the center that can be cut away. If it went into the carcass at all, I'd have pitched it. If it only went down to the carcass though, I'd have grooved that tire and gotten another 5K miles out of it. The K761 is a versatile tire, but it really needs deeper grooves in the center for max mileage, and wider grooves near the edges for soft terrain.
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Old 05-10-2012, 05:32 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
I'd have gotten a tire grooving iron and seen how deep it went. The K761 has a LOT of rubber in the center that can be cut away. If it went into the carcass at all, I'd have pitched it. If it only went down to the carcass though, I'd have grooved that tire and gotten another 5K miles out of it. The K761 is a versatile tire, but it really needs deeper grooves in the center for max mileage, and wider grooves near the edges for soft terrain.
THIS is pretty good advice from my pov. Rather than groove it to see how deep the split is, I would stick a butter knife in there or a small scale/ruler to see how deep it is. If it doesn't go down to the cords (best estimate is good enough) spooge some rubber cement in there to keep out the dirt and ride it. Or take it off and keep it for an emergency spare. You could hole it at the split with an awl for measurement's sake when it is off the bike and repair it with sticky string and rubber cement. I would ride it unless I could pry open the split enough to see a whole bunch of broken cord. Even then, the tire will probably stay together. It takes a lot of damage to get a tire carcass to fail. YMMV
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:05 PM   #21
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Thanks for the input guys! Just on a visual it doesn't look like it goes deeper than the tread. I'll take a harder look at it this weekend and try to determine how deep it is. Thanks!
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:03 PM   #22
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I don't know if you still have this tire or not, but I wouldn't use rubber cement. I wouldn't use anything like that if the carcass is damaged. In an emergency, I'd use something a little more durable if you want to mend a tire carcass to get you back to civilization. Shoe Goop, multiple tire plugs, or similar is the best thing I can think of, but I wouldn't use it for a permanent solution or at speed. It would be just a limp-back solution. If the carcass is compromised, the tire is unsafe.

That said, I finally grooved my rear K761 for wet manners and better longevity.

This is what I started with...



This is what I've experimented to so far...





This tire actually works pretty well for my usage. I'm hoping I can improve it even more for sand/offroad, while adding some longevity, without compromising the road manners I've liked. I need to get a narrower grooving head and blades set, as well as some wider head and blades sets. This was really easy with a simple $60 Ideal grooving iron. I was in a bit of a hurry, and the tire was too smooth by this point to provide a decent grooving guide. A new K761 would be much easier to cut nicer.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:51 AM   #23
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Don't any of you worriers ever ride offroad? I am riding on a front with several ripped knobs, multiple rock cuts and a rear that is in even worse shape. All from way less than 1000 miles. If I worried about every split, cut and tear I would have to replace my tires after just about every offroad ride. I replace them when traction falls off or they are damaged beyond what HD tubes can handle. Otherwise shagged tires are just part of dual sport life.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:51 PM   #24
Dan Alexander
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Good for you.

Amongst other things I use my DS bike to ride twisty pavement as fast as I safely can. I won't take a chance on poor tires.

It's your neck, do what you want with it.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:54 PM   #25
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I would ride it to the nearest shop, unless you have a spare in the garage
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:34 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Dan Alexander View Post
Good for you.

Amongst other things I use my DS bike to ride twisty pavement as fast as I safely can. I won't take a chance on poor tires.

It's your neck, do what you want with it.

Kind of an ironic post with that Hunter S. Thompson quote in your signature line.
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:37 PM   #27
Dan Alexander
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Sorry, irony escapes me
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:01 PM   #28
Kommando
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I would ride it to the nearest shop, unless you have a spare in the garage
What's a shop gonna do that he can't though? They're likely to recommend buying a new tire and having it mounted, balanced, and installed in their shop...without even looking at the tire. If it hasn't split down to the carcass, grooving it right there could stop the split before it goes to the carcass. That K761 could have another 3-4K miles or more left in it if it's salvageable, and that's more than many $70+ tires offer even when brand new.
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:12 PM   #29
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It's not a knobbie that sits on a dirt bike that get trailered to some fav riding area and where you don't go too far from the trailer. It's a klr with a DS tire. That means it get ridden on the highway maybe to get to some off road area or not.

Anybody who would ride that on the highway is nuts ... and I'll bet if there was a blowout and a crash the insurance company would laugh at the stupidity and wash their hands of the whole thing toot sweet.
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:25 PM   #30
Kommando
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Originally Posted by Dan Alexander View Post
It's not a knobbie that sits on a dirt bike that get trailered to some fav riding area and where you don't go too far from the trailer. It's a klr with a DS tire. That means it get ridden on the highway maybe to get to some off road area or not.

Anybody who would ride that on the highway is nuts ... and I'll bet if there was a blowout and a crash the insurance company would laugh at the stupidity and wash their hands of the whole thing toot sweet.
Explain how that tire would be dangerous if the split doesn't even go down to the carcass and it can be grooved to stop it from going any deeper.

I agree that a split to the carcass pretty much means RETIRE THAT SUCKA, but I'm also of the opinion that one should learn how to salvage things that can be salvaged, with their own hands, especially if they're wanting to get in the habit of leaving the beaten path. Try not to write things off so quickly. The tire could be completely trashed, but it could be perfectly salvageable too. We don't know until it's properly "investigated".
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