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Old 05-06-2012, 12:43 AM   #901
Padmei OP
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Disclaimer: Any engineers & skilled / experienced metal workers may want to pop out & make a cup of coffee instead of viewing this post. It involves bad welding, work practices & judgement. I am not any of the above merely a simple man with a dream & a borrowed welder.

Felt better today so got the tools out again & began designing & fabricating a sidestand for Schmidt.
I had gathered a few bits of scrap metal from my sympathetic engineer customer.

I wasn't sure exactly where I was going to start & it didn't seem to me logical to try to draw a diagram. This would be the prototype to see if it would actually work.
I wanted to mount it off the front engine mount so cut up some rect box section





I had no rod so made do with some 10mm hi tensile bolts.



Luckily I kept some old electrical conduit I cut out of a house during the week & welded a spacer to the top of it.


It's very quick & easy putting pics on the computerer. It took me hours of sizing things up to get to this stage.



The mounting bracket sits on the front engine mount. It is designed so it rests against the frame when the stand is down.



Jeez those welds look bad. I think they look worse in the pics than in real life...ahem...

Anyway I got to the stage where it would support the bike at quite a good angle. That capnut spacer was supposed to be hitting the bolt but was a bugger to weld in place so was mistakenly dropped down the leg. You may notice the foot is a bit whoopsied.



Unluckily I had no 10mm bolts to secure it in place so I put it back onto the centre stand until I get some for field testing. When it is retracted it seems to be sitting similarly in location as the stock.

The hole in the leg is a couple of mm bigger than the bolt so twists abit however it is good to have the length on the mounting bolt in case I need to move the leg further out to accomodate it in retracted position.


Later on I thought I should at least pretend to be a motorcycle rider & went to the forest for a quiet ride. I ended up munting my speedo drive cable.



I took it off & had a proper looksie. Mmmmm metal snake like components, velly vell intelesting.



Maybe it was my engineering achievements from this morning that prompted me, I dunno, but after looking closely at it & saw that nothing was broken just mangled I thought I may have a chance of repairing it.

Imaging myself as a poor humble honest craftsman from a back street in Pakistan I got out the gas torch & before long had shaped this



Back into this



Alas I should have stopped there but I thought with a bit more gentle persuasion I could get it looking new again. Not to be. Too much heat & it broke off under its' own weight. I trimmed it & set it with some minute mend. - good stuff that- very handy. The snake slid back up ok so hopefully it should work.



I was while riding secretly glad it broke so I could justify swapping the horrible lil trailtech unit (bought with a DRZ mount) onto snotso & put a neat lill Acewell round unit on Schmidt. However money is a tad tighter at the mo so that will have to wait.
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Old 05-10-2012, 01:32 AM   #902
Padmei OP
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Bugger riding the snot machine with the munted speedo cable rooted the worm drive in the front hub. Looks like I will be fronting up for an acewell speedo at some stage to put on Schmidt & shift the trailtech to the green thing.

I prefer the needle tach model but is about twice the price of this one



Acewell site


BTW Nutso the reason I made the bracket on my sidestand forward was to keep the retracted sidestand forward. On the engine mounts it still sits back quite far.
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Old 05-10-2012, 01:39 AM   #903
innathyzit
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Lucky it goes all the way to 12000rpm aye.
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:26 AM   #904
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'Ideal for Customs & Cruisers'. That's lucky
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Old 05-12-2012, 02:16 AM   #905
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Did a little bit more on the sidestand today.
While I was eyeing up the bike angle from the front, the mock up pipe decided it couldn't handle the weight of Schmmidt & bent dropping him heavily onto the concrete floor. I was surprised the only casualty was the ali clutch lever. They are surprisingly easy to get off the ground for heavy beasts.
Anyway I have come up with what I feel is a better way than the 1st prototype. The 1st one was good to find the pivot point that would work well. When retracted the stand will be in a similar position as the stock which was never ideal but will suffice.

I leaned the mixture out a bit & went for a 5 min ride around the block. I goes really nice now, prob the best since I put that y pipe on anyway with much better pickup (must have been too rich).

I got my timing lite set up & had a looksie when the engine was reasonably warm. At around 1000RPM the s sits nicely in the center of the line. When I set the revs up to 3000-3500 the z is about 3/4 the way up the hole, just above the line.
These images aren't gospel as I need someone to try to hold the revs just right but close enough. i'm pretty sure i was happy with the idle anyway. I will have another look tomorrow if I can.

Now, I have spent the night searching & looking at timing threads but after reading so many am unsure of the whole thing. I even waded thru snowbums instructions. If the z sits too high that means the spark is too advanced (meaning it fires too early??) & can somehow damage a piston? I also read the idle timing is the one to aim for as the higher the revs the less degrees matter or something.

Long story short what should I be concerned about & what shouldn't I be concerned about. If idle is good should I try to get the z aligned with the mark at 3-3500?
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Old 05-12-2012, 05:26 AM   #906
innathyzit
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I have some bad news.

May need to repossess my mig for a while for a wee project. Might be able to do it with the arc welder so don't start hyper-ventilating yet.

Looks like a good shed day tomorrow.
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Old 05-12-2012, 01:13 PM   #907
Padmei OP
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Originally Posted by innathyzit View Post
I have some bad news.

May need to repossess my mig for a while for a wee project. Might be able to do it with the arc welder so don't start hyper-ventilating yet.

Looks like a good shed day tomorrow.
No worries do you want me to drop off today?
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Old 05-12-2012, 02:20 PM   #908
innathyzit
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
No worries do you want me to drop off today?

Na its cool , if i need it i will text/call you and come get it if you home. No panic
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:57 PM   #909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post


I got my timing lite set up & had a looksie when the engine was reasonably warm. At around 1000RPM the s sits nicely in the center of the line. When I set the revs up to 3000-3500 the z is about 3/4 the way up the hole, just above the line.
These images aren't gospel as I need someone to try to hold the revs just right but close enough. i'm pretty sure i was happy with the idle anyway. I will have another look tomorrow if I can.

Now, I have spent the night searching & looking at timing threads but after reading so many am unsure of the whole thing. I even waded thru snowbums instructions. If the z sits too high that means the spark is too advanced (meaning it fires too early??) & can somehow damage a piston? I also read the idle timing is the one to aim for as the higher the revs the less degrees matter or something.

Long story short what should I be concerned about & what shouldn't I be concerned about. If idle is good should I try to get the z aligned with the mark at 3-3500?
I spent quite a bit of time looking at this with the race bike, I have a Boyer and could not get my engine to idle...its had a few mods so not unexpected,
I fitted a timing wheel to the crank, found TDC and strobed it.
Set up at 30 degrees the Z is in the window...more advance and it moves up, less and down, done a 3000 RPM.
Problem with the Boyer is it just keeps on advancing.....so its getting the boot.
Its not a good idea to have too much advance.
Snowbum can be useful but its hard work.
After next weekend at Hampton Downs I'm fitting the Ignitech programmable one, mate just doing coil mounts, pick up mounts and dummy alt rotor.
Oh BTW...how long is you speedo cable, got a 1100 mm one you can have.
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:30 AM   #910
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Thanks Voltaire. I will pick the nose of my local mech & get the lowdown - I have to ask the same question a few times before the answer sinks in.
The speedo cable is for the KLX (DRZ)400 the cable is ok in that it works however the worm drive inside the hub got munted when it was spinning but the cable bit wasn't & just wore it out. Hopefully I may talk them into letting me use a GPS as a speedo

Had another look at the timing & carb tuning. The bike runs great so unless I am endangering the engine I will leave as is. I still haven't ordered the rest of the parts for the pushrod tubes yet & may uncover some dragons when I take the head off etc so will wait till all that is buttoned up to get it completely sorted.

- Head Gaskets x 2
- Base Oring large x 2
- Base Oring small x 4 (goes in the top studs)
- Pushrod seals x 4
- Piston Gudgeon Pin circlip (technically x 4, but you can get away with 2)
- There is a tool to insert the pushrod tubes
- Heat source & some Freeze Spray - effectively liquid nitrogen (or use your freezer).
- Gasket goo of your choice. I used a light smear Loctite 518 on the base, but that was what I already had.

Originally Posted by Box'a'bits
- Head Gaskets x 2 (16300)
- Base Oring large x 2 (40900)
- Base Oring small x 4 (goes in the top studs) (41000)
- Pushrod seals x 4
- Piston Gudgeon Pin circlip (technically x 4, but you can get away with 2) (50880)
- There is a tool to insert the pushrod tubes
- Heat source & some Freeze Spray - effectively liquid nitrogen (or use your freezer).
- Gasket goo of your choice. I used a light smear Loctite 518 on the base, but that was what I already had.

Padmei screwed with this post 05-14-2012 at 12:48 PM
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:38 PM   #911
Voltaire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Thanks Voltaire. I will pick the nose of my local mech & get the lowdown - I have to ask the same question a few times before the answer sinks in.
The speedo cable is for the KLX (DRZ)400 the cable is ok in that it works however the worm drive inside the hub got munted when it was spinning but the cable bit wasn't & just wore it out. Hopefully I may talk them into letting me use a GPS as a speedo

Had another look at the timing & carb tuning. The bike runs great so unless I am endangering the engine I will leave as is. I still haven't ordered the rest of the parts for the pushrod tubes yet & may uncover some dragons when I take the head off etc so will wait till all that is buttoned up to get it completely sorted.

- Head Gaskets x 2
- Base Oring large x 2
- Base Oring small x 4 (goes in the top studs)
- Pushrod seals x 4
- Piston Gudgeon Pin circlip (technically x 4, but you can get away with 2)
- There is a tool to insert the pushrod tubes
- Heat source & some Freeze Spray - effectively liquid nitrogen (or use your freezer).
- Gasket goo of your choice. I used a light smear Loctite 518 on the base, but that was what I already had.
My local BMW/Subaru Guru recommends three bond or tribond ( can't recall).
When he did the heads on my R90 fitted valve guide liners and did a 3 angle valve job....The Airsperts were horrified at inserts.... still I never take the engine past 8000 RPM
Whats the pushrod tool for...I thought they had been Poo pooed...
Out of interest why are you pulling the heads off?
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:31 PM   #912
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Voltaire, Padmei's going to put new pushrod tube in. The tool is to push that in. Probably don't need that, but saves flaring the tubes out.

The one you are thinking of was used to compress the pushrod seal on the pre 80's bikes, before the pushrod tube ring was brazed on.
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:52 PM   #913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Box'a'bits View Post
Voltaire, Padmei's going to put new pushrod tube in. The tool is to push that in. Probably don't need that, but saves flaring the tubes out.

The one you are thinking of was used to compress the pushrod seal on the pre 80's bikes, before the pushrod tube ring was brazed on.
Ahhhhhh.... I'm a 70's sort of BMW guy......I just pinch bits from the 80's
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Old 05-14-2012, 12:38 AM   #914
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Ahhhhhh.... I'm a 70's sort of BMW guy......I just pinch bits from the 80's
Yeah while we're on your bike - that tank is too nice to be on race bike. shirley you could have found a scungier one to potentially damage?

I had just copy & pasted that parts list from Nutsos thread so I can find it easier.

You get over that 6500rpm threshold problem from a while back?

On a friends long driveway I got up to 150K without the screen on. I was pretty impressed with that as I think I could have got a tad more out of it. I reckon if I took it to Bonneville, pumped up the tyres & had enough room for it to wind out I could get pretty close to the Ton.
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:12 AM   #915
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Yeah while we're on your bike - that tank is too nice to be on race bike. shirley you could have found a scungier one to potentially damage?
You get over that 6500rpm threshold problem from a while back?
All it not what it would appear.... I got the tank of Ebay for bugger all as it was really dented....I drilled holes in the bottom and punched it out to get the shape, bogged it, brazed the holes and POR 15 sealed it. I gave it a squirt of paint and it looks ok. Toaster panels are fibreglass copies I made, with aluminium discs with stickers my mate made and chrome vinyl....
I got some bellmouth trumpets and a selection of leaner jets to try.I had it up to over 7500 a few weeks ago at Puke but not in top....eek....the new ignition has a rev limiter so that should help me not to blow it up.
I'm hoping to run it at all the NI tracks this year. Great fun.


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