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Old 05-06-2012, 09:17 AM   #46
heta öknen vind
n00b
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: Fabulous Las Vegas
Oddometer: 6
A buddy of mine had the Hepco Becker engine guards on his 2010 R1200GS and he had a really slow crash (kind of a slow forward fall in some gravel) and they bent back and just touched the cylinder head. He kind of freaked out about what would have happened in a real crash. Would they have knocked his cylinder head cover off? We tried to straighten them by hooking a tow strap around them and my Jeep bumper and yanking them back into shape. We failed to really do anything to fix them and after a couple of tries we gave up thinking we could break an engine mount or something. So off they went and he picked up a set of Altrider engine guards and the uppers as well. I have to say that they went on really easy. To say we are mechanical would be a joke. We did watch the video and it took both of us to put the lowers on as we had to compress the front suspension to fit the guard into the engine bolt hole. This seems like a really strong design compared to the Hepco part. The lowers he bought must be a newer design because they have a little different mounting thing going on at the bottom engine bolts. These seemed easier than the video version. (Hey Altrider, time for a new video?) The bars are made out of stainless steel which looks awesome (he got the unpainted bars but they make them in black too). Then we installed the uppers. Altrider is either really good at building this stuff or we are really lucky. After looking at the trouble people are having putting the uppers on with the Hepco bars we kind of thought we might have some issues with these as well. Nope, they went right on in about 35 minutes. The upper bracket / plate that bolts to the beak lined up first shot then the rear holes fell into place. The upper bars are held in place with four bolts to the aluminum bracket / plate and have some play in them so we could line up the uppers on top of the lowers. We put the clamps on and they went in without much hassle at all. The front bolts are hidden inside the tube and it looks clean because only the rear one shows. We tightened it all up and it feels seriously solid. A couple of things, Altrider put built in light mounts on the aluminum mounting plate so that’s cool, but you could probably mount some techmount light mounts on if you wanted to hang some Clearwaters LED’s, Warn HID’s or Lightforce lights. It seems you could also install some sort of RAM mount to hang a video camera in the mounting holes. The design is cool because it doesn’t look like you are trying to convert your GS into a GSA by having the loops like on the Hepco uppers. The hardware looks like it’s all stainless and the clearance is even on both sides without pulling or pushing or jacking (yikes). Even though he hasn’t tried it, you might be able to remove the side panels with the uppers in place because of placement and clearance and not scratch the paint which would be cool for cleaning your air filter. The last thing I have to say is the instructions are very well written and in English, as this stuff is made in the USA and I like that.
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:45 AM   #47
motomandan
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Mechanicsville MD
Oddometer: 384
H&P Bars

I just put the black cylinder and tank guards on my 2012 Triple Black GS. Bolted on no problem. I tried taking both sidecovers off . It can be done it just takes patience.
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Old 05-11-2014, 06:38 PM   #48
DennisK_ID
Old and In the Way
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: Idaho
Oddometer: 36
HB bar frustration

Really old post so no one will read but was searching to alleviate my frustration and found this thread.

My '05 (bought a year ago) came with these. After getting home I was delving into maintenance stuff and realized I couldn't get the tank bars off. The lower bolts were turned out and the upper U-bolts had nylock nuts so one had to turn for ever in very limited space. And, of course, the plastic side pieces wouldn't come off without removing the bars. Used a Dremel to remove the bars. When I reinstalled I switched the bolts using plates from cheap U-bolts that bent in an arc as I tightened the nuts. Nuts now on inside as in one of the posts. Makes it a lot easier to R&R the bars but, I just noticed that the nuts and bolt ends are scoring the top of the forks. The combination of travel and turning cause the bolt ends to contact the forks. So use that method with caution.

I think these are bling. They may do more damage than good in a hard crash. They may save the tank in a slow crash. I've gotten used to them as a place to carry tools and spare fuel. I have the Black Dog bags on them. Pretty sure I'm keeping them as the heavy tools, a liter of unleaded in one side and a liter of white gas in the other was how I was envisioning my trip to Alaska.

So I'm considering using zip ties, maybe 3 or 4 each side, in lieu of bolts. i will explore this tomorrow and also get U-bolts to install the intended direction. With the U-bolts cut down and a 1/4 drive swiveling ratchet---maybe.

-----
No go on zip ties. Couldn't get them tightened enough with the beak in place. I am spreading bars out a tad but procedure is to unfasten side plastic and let hang to access beak screws. Remove beak. U-bolt nuts can now be accessed with swivel on 1/4" extender and socket.

A pain but not that bad. The damn bars have to come off for any maintenance anyway. Biggest concern on the road is losing one of those beak screws.
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DennisK_ID screwed with this post 05-12-2014 at 12:22 PM
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