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Old 05-06-2012, 05:41 PM   #31
Dan-M
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosemeat View Post
Check out Matco.com quality stuff, bargain prices.

Been buying Snap-on and Mac for 30+ years, Matco for a little less. IMO, Matco is good but not the same quality overall as Snap-on or even Mac. (I'm talking about the whole line of hand tools, not torque wrenches)
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:34 PM   #32
Xios
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I got this one a few years back. You can change the head type ( box open socket , etc.)so it can be used on most fasteners. The best feature for me is that I have the ability to hold the valve adjustment screw, with the allen, while torquing the lock nut on my 1150GS. It goes from 4nm to 20nm. I've got a 10mm box, and a 1/4" drive head. It is very versatile.
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:47 PM   #33
Unstable Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khpossum View Post
I bought a cheap torque wrench, $20 or something like it, at Toolking 3 or 4 years ago. I finally wen thru my garage and put a superduper calibrator together in 45 minutes or so with some scrap parts laying around to check how it was doing after all the abuse.





Low and behold it just about right on the money, within +/- 1 FT.lb upto 30 FT.lb. I need to get a 2 gallon container to check upto 60 Ft.lb . Not bad for a $20 wrench. From her on out I can now check the accuracy in a few minutes.

Please note the calibrated milk jug with the righ amount of water to create the required low torque (7NM??) with an 8" wrench for the 1150GS pivot bearings. I don't trust the torque wrench for such low values. I suspect BTW that when the vendors tell you an accuracy of say 4% that that means 4% of full scale. So with a 100 NM wrench the accuracy is 4 NM, even when setting something at 10 NM. Not very accurate at low values. Not sure about this though. Anybody have any idea?

KP

WHY are you not building rocket ships or a new model KLR with mad skills like that!@

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Old 05-06-2012, 07:22 PM   #34
diabolik37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelWisman View Post
If your going to treat it gentle, never use it as a breaker bar, they are all fine.

The digitals hold their calibration longer, the twist click ones are a pain as you have to twist them down after each use and exercise them before each use.

The old beam pointer style are tough as nails but not very accurate especially if you look at them from any kind of an angle.

For top of the line digitals in shop use, the matco is the toughest and retains it's calibration the longest, followed by snap on which is just as tough but calibration tends to drift more frequently. The craftsman tend to fall apart and wildly loose calibration when handled by a flat rate mechanic that knows time is money and treats his tools like tools instead of trophies.
I would like to understand more about both statements in this sentence.

How would a digital hold the calibration lomger than a click one?

And what does it mean "as you have to twist them down after each use and exercise them before each use".
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