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Old 05-04-2012, 11:00 AM   #16
Salsa
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I don't guarantee it, but Wiki says it is so.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_AX100

Do you have one of these?

http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslis...7fig8_725c.jpg

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-ax100-19...?model_q=ax100

Don
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:39 PM   #17
mfpthebronze OP
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Location: Shenzhen, Guangdong China
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salsa View Post
Thanks for the links Salsa! I had seen the wiki page before, but it didn't specify how it automatically lubricates. Meaning, does it directly inject pure oil onto the main bearings, or via the intake charge of air/fuel/oil that is pulled into the crank case...

But the second and third think are great! We didn't have any schematics of this motor, so these should be really useful.
Looks like the oil pump (which our motor does have), is simply driven via a connection to the crank. I only see one oil line going in, and one going out... which should mean that the one outgoing oil line is to the carb... ? I think

I guess if things go POP then we'll know I was wrong
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:51 PM   #18
smilin jack
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Oil injection

Hey, cool build going on.

On my Suzuki X-5 Invader (1967 and first year of oil injection), there was a screw on the bottom of the engine to adjust oil flow. Check yours... it was a larger slotted screw with a + and - to show more or less oil.

The oil on mine was supposed to go into the oil passage on the crank, lubing the crank bearings and then fling off to lube the piston. The little 200cc bike had right at 100K miles when I traded it for an outboard motor. Seems to be a good oiling system.

Dave
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:32 PM   #19
SpaceManSpiff
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fun project...
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:02 AM   #20
TerraRoot
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Just look at your oil pump, there will be one big in line and one smaller out line, if you have one line out that must go the induction. if you have two or three out lines then they will goto the bigends or the barrel.
I really doubt a rubbish four speed commuter from the seventies has the kinda oil injection system you normally find on an rgv250 or a big tourer like the gt750.
pointless to remove it any way. it won't go any faster and it will break quicker. leave it. maybe remove the alternator instead and run the sparks via a rechargeable battery(lipo).
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:15 AM   #21
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Great stuff. More, please.
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:02 AM   #22
El Guero
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Keep it coming!!!

I think my wife went to college in Shenzhen. I think she's given up on moving back to China, and your story here makes me feel pretty alright about that

We are going to be spending a month in China this summer, if we are rolling through Shenzhen I might have to hit you up
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:43 PM   #23
Smackit
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Hmmm...what have we here? Looks like the Shenzhen boys are up to no good as usual, should be some quality entertainment coming from this project.

Keep going, I'll just be sitting over here

Cheers!
ChinaV
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:40 AM   #24
mfpthebronze OP
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Wheel Bearings

The Internet (thank you Al Gore) is working a little slow, so we'll see if we can get some pics up with this post.

We went back out to the bike shed today with the mission of getting the engine mounts fabricated (or bodged) and hopefully put into place. So of course that's exactly what didn't happen. We needed a rolling chassis, or at least the rear wheel on, to get everything lined up properly.
Before we put the wheels on we decided to have a quick look at the bearings.



Yes, the bearings, and everything else, have been painted center-line yellow. Some industrious little guy has sprayed everything with thick yellow paint. That might explain why the first two set of bearings wouldn't spin

We thought about just trying to clean things up a bit and putting it all back together, and then of of the guys chimed in and reminded us that we were being lazy bastards

Knocking out the bearings took a bit of work. We used an engine mount bolt (that we didn't need) to knock them out, but it was a bit of a struggle. Took the bolt to the table grinder a few times to try to get a "grabby" edge on it, but it still took a while. Lots of gentle and not-so-gentle taps finally got them all out though.

So, an e-bike trip to the bike shop later, and we had some new high-class bearings



Almost TZR, it's a sign. These are made for the bike!

We cleaned up all the yellow paint that was on everything, packed the new bearings with grease and gently laid them into place...



... with a heavy sledge... wielded by a gorilla.

Repeat for the rear wheel, and call it a job done!

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Old 05-08-2012, 09:02 AM   #25
mfpthebronze OP
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Location: Shenzhen, Guangdong China
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
On my Suzuki X-5 Invader (1967 and first year of oil injection), there was a screw on the bottom of the engine to adjust oil flow. Check yours... it was a larger slotted screw with a + and - to show more or less oil.
Thanks! We had a look, and it doesn't seem to have this adjustment screw on it. I think all signs point to a pretty standard OLD 2 stroke.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TerraRoot
pointless to remove it any way. it won't go any faster and it will break quicker. leave it. maybe remove the alternator instead and run the sparks via a rechargeable battery(lipo).
Our aim with the oil system isn't speed (not a lot is going to help this motor), but ease. We want to eliminate use of it all together and run premix. As the bike is for the track only, we plan on using the factory oil reservoir as our premix tank, and leave the gas tank proper empty (it's also FULL of rust)

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Guero
I think my wife went to college in Shenzhen. I think she's given up on moving back to China, and your story here makes me feel pretty alright about that

We are going to be spending a month in China this summer, if we are rolling through Shenzhen I might have to hit you up
Yeah, just reading about it myself makes me wonder why I'm here
BUUUUUT, we're still here of our own choice. Despite all of the huge amounts of needless crap you have to wade through each day, there's still something indefinable that keeps a lot of us here...
If you're in Shenzhen, definitely send me a PM, and we'll get together

Quote:
Originally Posted by chinaV
Hmmm...what have we here? Looks like the Shenzhen boys are up to no good as usual, should be some quality entertainment coming from this project.

Keep going, I'll just be sitting over here
We're trying to clean things up a bit before we work on it, just for you
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:52 PM   #26
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Paint 1

Well, we've been out working on the bike a bit, but don't have a whole lot to show for it. Every time we set a plan to get some real work done, we find another part that is completely knackered and requires attention first. Also work, other motorcycles, and days at the pool have kept us busy.

Thought I'd just do a quick post then regarding some painting.

After much deliberation and thought (read: 30 seconds) we decided to just paint all the bodywork white. White is universally known to be faster than other colors, and we need all the help we can get at the track.

I started with the front fender. I didn't have time to do it at the bike shed, so I brought it home and started sanding it... in the bedroom...



It was waaaay to hot outside to be sanding it anywhere else. Also please disregard the hairy knees, my wife got into the shot a little

After I finished sanding I brought it up to the roof to paint. I can't find primer at any of the shops, so I had to make due with a can of white paint. Turns out the white paint is 90% lacquer, 10% pigment. Even with 3 coats, you can still see through the paint to the ugly blue underneath... I'd care about it more, but I don't.



And 1 "over the railing" shot (note the lack of a railing) I also think I painted my arm more than the fender. I was windy!



Next up, the tank
I'll post about that later. Right now I'm going to go out and fix my wife's iphone which stopped working (again) and buy a non-copied fully legal and licensed computer game from the local electronics market which does not provide copied, cracked, and otherwise illegal software and hardware. I PROMISE
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mfpthebronze screwed with this post 05-10-2012 at 11:03 PM
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:19 AM   #27
miguelitro
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loving it! i love my china bike, motor 1 brand down here!
those oil injection systems were really never worth removing as they just plain worked so well. I think you should cut out the gas tank bottom and mount something inside it for your fuel. a small wind shiekd washer fluid bottle might do the trick or a radiator overflow bottle!
Mike
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I'd rather be riding a 200 in Ecuador than any dream bike here.
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:09 AM   #28
mfpthebronze OP
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Paint 2

Iphone is now working, but couldn't find the game. You win some you lose some.

Last night I decided to start on the gas tank (petrol tank for those who spell "colour"). Just doing the same process as with the front fender. I have started sanding the tank with 300 grit paper to get the clear coat off. I thought about taking the tank down to metal with a wire wheel and a grinder, but was advised that it was a waste of time. At the time I agreed, but after an hour of sweating and scrubbing away at the tank I was starting to feel otherwise. But at this point, I've already started so I'll stick with it.

Also as with the front fender, I was sanding in the bedroom. My wife was even kind enough to take a picture of me making a mess



The yellow teddy bear pillow is not mine, I SWEAR



Thumbs up means it's done. Done means the first round of sanding. The plan is now to go at it again with 500 and then 1000 grit paper until it's nice and smooth.

Also, some of you may be wondering why the fill cap is off, possibly allowing debris into the tank. What looks like exit-wound gore, is actually the surface of the inside of the tank



I don't think that's going to buff out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by miguelitro
I think you should cut out the gas tank bottom and mount something inside it for your fuel
Last night I was considering something along those lines... if we decide to use the oil pump, then me may very well do that. The plan right now is to run premix out of the original oil reservoir, with also has he added benefit of being under the seat; keeping the weight and fluid a little lower.

I also have considered cutting large sections out of the tank until it is essentially a very thin framework. Then I would make a fiberglass replacement tank of sorts, and use the thin framework that is left over to support the fiberglass tank. The only purpose of the tank at this point is to give you something to hold onto with your knees. I'm considering doing this for two reasons.

1. To save weight
2. To try it for the sake of trying it.

I am realistic of the fact that this is a beat old 2 stroke that's going to be slow no matter what we do to it. So that's another reason that I'm happy to try things I otherwise never would. We have so little invested into this bike that it's not going to break any hearts if things go wrong with it.

Anyway, we can always order replacement parts from this guy I saw last night

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Old 05-12-2012, 01:32 PM   #29
TerraRoot
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for track handling you should aim for the bikes weight to be near the headstock, and the rider/bike combined balance should be about 60/40 front/rear.
mind melting amounts of info here: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...s-engine-tuner
kiwi bucket racers would be right up your street. just don't tell em you used an ax100....
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Old 05-13-2012, 04:10 AM   #30
richardktm
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mind melting amounts of info here: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...s-engine-tuner
kiwi bucket racers would be right up your street. just don't tell em you used an ax100....[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the inspiration Terraroot.. sometimes I wonder what the hell I'm doing at my age playing around with this heap, then i realise there is a world full of nutters doing the same.

More good info here too Joe. http://www.ozbucketracing.com/
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