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Old 04-28-2012, 08:02 AM   #31
internalcombust
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These tires look very similar to the 705 shinkos I used to love running on my strom. The tread is obviously different, but the sidewall and the way the tread comes out from the edge is very close. I wonder if these are made by shinko, but to vee rubber's specs. These could be my new go to tire for the tiger. I have been looking for more grip than the 705s, but not the stupid cost of most big bike knobbies. I have a set of big blocks to throw on right now, but I know they will burn up fast. Thanks for sharing this info.
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:48 AM   #32
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130/80-17 & 90/90-21

Just a picture:



Hadn't tried 'em yet, I'll post back when we do.

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Old 05-07-2012, 10:13 AM   #33
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I'll be interested to know how your 130 works out.

I'm at just over 3,000 miles and into the wear bars on my 130. That's not very good. I'm curious as to whether I just got a bum tire or if that's the way they all run.

Like I said before...my 140 VRM-163 was rock solid and a great long lasting tire. Not sure why I burned through the 130 in such a short amount of time.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:40 AM   #34
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OK, might be a while though. I think we've decided against using these for our Alaska trip.

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Old 05-08-2012, 05:11 AM   #35
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That's probably a good call. You are going to want a 5/6k mile or more tire for AK. That's a long haul. I'm not sure how the roads are now but last time I did Seattle to the Arctic circle via White Horse and Fairbanks in the early 90's on a regular cruiser it was all doable on normal tires unless you were headed off the main two lane and into logging country or the deep darks of Alaska west of Route 3.

If I were to do it again, I'd want to be on the DR with knobbies once I crossed the border from the U.S. into Canada just so I could get off the normally traveled routes and do some exploring in the hinterlands. Once you get north of Vancouver the mountains provide all kinds of ways to travel off the beaten path if you have a bike that will do it and are carrying enough gas to ensure that you won't get stranded.

Lot's and lot's and lot's of Canadian national park in the Rockies that is off the highway, off the pavement, and often on non-maintained routes if you are so inclined to take the time to get there. Plus the U.S. Tongass National Forest on the coast is incredible if you don't mind having your bikes transported from places like Ketchican to Sitka via boat.

And the Kluane Lake region is just amazing. I took my Harley off road riding up there after we left Haines Juction. Couldn't resist the urge to get on the logging roads and go, even on street tires. Getting up to the Arctic in the Yukon is an adventure in and of itself. If you can find an open rout to Ivvavick National Park I'd say don't hesitate to take it but I had to charter a float plane to get that far north when I was up there. And the Northwest Territories are just off the map amazing.

...here I am dreaming of riding it again...it was the ride of a lifetime. I did the continental U.S. to Fairbanks route 3 times...twice by car and once on the bike. Each time I took the opportunity to see different things and take different routes. And one time I started in Maine, crossed into Canada, drove across Canada and then into Alaska. Now that was one heck of a trip...well worth doing by train if you don't wan't to drive. The NW territories are off the charts an amazing place to see.

You riding from Kentucky or having your bike shipped somewhere first?
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Old 05-09-2012, 04:44 AM   #36
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"...it was the ride of a lifetime."

Yep, that's exactly how Doug and I felt when we went in '08. Been chomping at the bit to go back ever since. We'll ride from KY, and just as you said, need a reliable 5,000 mile tire. We didn't want to spend too much, since we'll be pulling them off and swapping to T63's in Anchorage. Based on what I'd read about the Vee on the F8GS in this thread and elsewhere, I thought they were the very ticket. Who'd a thought Vee would change compounds between tire sizes? I'd looked hard at Shinko's, but couldn't get past the reports of failures that kept popping up here and there. Sure don't want to be in the middle of the Yukon with a trashed tire.

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Old 05-24-2012, 04:46 AM   #37
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Tire size change okay with the VRM-163?

Hi everyone,
Flashback, I also ride the F800GS but unlike you I'm just starting at this size, I'm used to the CRF450. Sorry for your warranty issues, Bimmer Bummer. I really like the thought that this tire VRM-163 is more of a 70/30 vs. 80/20.

I can't find much information on two things. My "local" dealership recommends over the phone that I stay to the sizes recommended Front: 21-90/90, Rear 17-150/70. What made you comfortable putting on a tubeless and change the geometry of the rear (17-140/80)? Aren't beads different, if nothing else, between tube and -less? It seems that you installed the tire, how hard was the install (guessing by hand)? Did you install beads for balancing? Really want to try this tire.
Also what were you running on the front at the time? I'm running on Anakee 2's and though their road manners are exemplary, running them off-road leaves a lot to be desired.

Thanks for all the information and knowledge.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:13 AM   #38
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Hi Quo. This is going to be a lengthy reply.

Let me preface that your dealer is correct. Whenever possible you should run the size tire that is recommended for your bike and rim. But that in no way means that the tire recommended for your bike is the only tire that will fit on you rim. As a matter of fact, all tires are made to different specs and are sized slightly different, even the ones that are sized for your rim. And all rims (even rims of the same "size") are made to different specs and sized slightly differently.

Think of your rim as a general receiver that can accept a range of tires. Tires sized for that receiver can vary in dimensions, and even how the bead fits, but when you buy a tire that is sized for a 150/70-17 rim, you can be certain it will fit the 150 rim without issue.

Now there are various advantages to using tires that are not the right size for your rim regardless of what bike you ride. For instance thinner tires work better in off-road conditions and wider tires work better in super-moto conditions. Going one size up or down from your rim size is usually works without issue. Two sizes up or down and you get into "maybe it'll work" territory where you need to do your own testing. On the stock rim for the F800 I've seen people use 160, 150, 140, and even some 130 size tires (notably the D606).

Anytime you mount a tire that wasn't made to fit you rim you are changing the tires operating geometry. Sometimes that works for the better, sometimes it doesn't. It's really a factor of rim design, tire design, how you ride, and bike geometry.

When going larger you need to consider available width between the sides of the swingarm and whether it will rub on your chain or fender.

When going smaller you need to ensure that the tire seats well enough so that there is no slippage.

Yes I do all my tires by hand. But (here's the caveat), I don't have a balancing machine. When I mount up a new tire that I've not had experience with I have it done professionally so that I can ensure the rim gets properly balanced and know how much weight it needs for future tire changes by hand. I had the 140 Vee mounted at my local BMW dealer while I was in for some warranty work. It needed a little more weight than the Heidi that came off during that change.

If you want to try the tire, try the tire. I still recommend the 140 vee for the F800 as a general purpose tire even though the 130 has gotten a thumbs down from me for the DR. The 140 was a solid, fun, long lasting tire for me.

---fronts vary --- I usually like a more aggressive 50/50 front over a street front simply because street fronts like the Anakee 2 or Heidi K60 do not provide adequate steering control in the dirt. TKC 80 is always good on the front with just about any rear. But my favorite front for all my bikes that go in the dirt is actually the Shinko 244 (it's a tire that isn't for everyone but one that suits my kind of riding very well).
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:07 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post
Hi Quo. This is going to be a lengthy reply.

Let me preface that your dealer is correct. Whenever possible you should run the size tire that is recommended for your bike and rim...

Now there are various advantages to using tires that are not the right size for your rim regardless of what bike you ride...

Anytime you mount a tire that wasn't made to fit you rim you are changing the tires operating geometry. Sometimes that works for the better, sometimes it doesn't. It's really a factor of rim design, tire design, how you ride, and bike geometry.

When going larger you need to consider available width between the sides of the swingarm and whether it will rub on your chain or fender.

When going smaller you need to ensure that the tire seats well enough so that there is no slippage.

...When I mount up a new tire that I've not had experience with I have it done professionally so that I can ensure the rim gets properly balanced and know how much weight it needs for future tire changes by hand. I had the 140 Vee mounted at my local BMW dealer while I was in for some warranty work...

---fronts vary --- I usually like a more aggressive 50/50 front over a street front simply because street fronts like the Anakee 2 or Heidi K60 do not provide adequate steering control in the dirt... .
Flashback, what a response! This is so cool, great personal insight and opinion along with knowledge, thank you. And what a response time too. You have a disciple.

I may go more conservative on the front than you just because my routine would be twice a month and an hour before reaching the trails. Now I just hope that the dealer will mount the tire.

Cheers and thanks again.
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:48 AM   #40
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Verdict is in. After one last ride on the 130 VRM 163 yesterday I'm pulling it off with less than a milimeter of tread left @ approx 3800 miles.

I think what did it in was the highway riding. It's so soft that even at higher pressures it heats up extremely hot when I would ride 80+mph and hot tires wear extremely fast.

But, on the bright side, the bead broke extremely easy...all I had to do was stand on it in flip flops.

So it would be an easy fix on the side of the road if you ever got a flat. I had the distinct mis-pleasure of trying to change a Heidi K60 that went flat on the side of the road once. What a terrible experience that was. The sidewall was so stiff that it took a hydraulic press to break the bead.

...and I found a nail broken off in the tire. It didn't penetrate through to the inside. At least it's a solid tire, even with no tread left. My thumb is tilting back towards positive again.
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:20 PM   #41
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This thread died out pretty fast. That is ok with me, that way there won't be any back order issues when I get my next set. I put a set on the front and rear of the tiger, and so far so good. They handle well and were easy to mount. I should get out this weekend and get them dirty. My new cheap go to tire for sure.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:31 PM   #42
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I may try another next change but right now I'm burning up a set of Shinko 244s.
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:11 PM   #43
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2k miles so far and going strong. They are starting to show some wear front and rear and they are getting noisy, but I still love them. Great in the dirt and on the road. Shhhhh, don't tell people how good they are, I don't want to find them back ordered when I order my next set.
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:24 PM   #44
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it went up a bit in price, and the tire that I have been running, went down in price, the difference is right around $12.

It is likely that I will not experiment with the tire for such small difference.

I am curious how long a 140 80 17 will last on a full sized GS though, if anyone tries, please post up.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:55 PM   #45
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ok, so I did it.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=848856
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