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Old 05-07-2012, 12:40 PM   #1126
Johnnie5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Domiken View Post
Hey guys,

Does anyone have a K&N filter on the bike? The airbox on the Ninja has come off from the carbs and I cant get them on for the life of me (dont know what the hell is going on in there), the bike has a really slow get off since they came off (its a few millimeters off touching the airbox) so I was thinking of ripping the whole thing out and just adding the dual 2 into 1 K&N filter but wanted your thoughts on it before purchasing.

iirc there is a bolt in the bottom of the airbox inside that bolts into the frame

loosen bolt when putting the airbox back on as its hole is elongated

once airbox is back on hold it in tight and then do the bolt back up
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:13 PM   #1127
Voidrider
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Domiken,

It would help to know the year of the bike.

I have a '96 and am very happily using a K&N filter in my airbox. The only thing I had to do was remove the filter brace from the airbox lid.

If you are dealing with an '88-'08 bike, yes, there is a screw that allows you to move the airbox/battery holder forward and back a bit.
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:21 AM   #1128
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Thanks guys! It's a 2005 so all this should apply. Ill take a look at it this weekend.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:26 PM   #1129
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I keep thinking there are two possible K&N filters for use in the airbox. The one I have is a nearly box-like affair that uses hose clamps to fasten it to the Helmholtz resonator cones on the inside of the lid. For this style, you must remove the stock filter brace which is molded to the inside of the lid as well.

The other type is one that simply replaces the flat stock Kawasaki filter. Do not remove the brace if this is the type you have.

If you can move the airbox/battery holder a bit forward, and are still having trouble with the intake boots, a handy trick to soften the rubber up a bit is to remove them completely from the bike, and BOIL then in water for a few minutes. Sounds goofy, but does really work. Don't lose or forget the boot springs.

Edited for clarity.

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Old 05-09-2012, 03:54 AM   #1130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voidrider View Post
...a handy trick to soften the rubber up a bit is to remove them completely from the bike, and BOIL then in water for a few minutes. Sounds goofy, but does really work. Don't lose or forget the boot springs.

Edited for clarity.
Can't emphasize this enough. Boil them for like 10-15 minutes and they should be fairly malleable. However - lose the boot springs. They're more of a PITA than they're worth. Swap them out for some hose clamps. It will make your life a little easier.
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:10 AM   #1131
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Originally Posted by MotoSailorDC View Post
Can't emphasize this enough. Boil them for like 10-15 minutes and they should be fairly malleable. However - lose the boot springs. They're more of a PITA than they're worth. Swap them out for some hose clamps. It will make your life a little easier.
Thanks guys, the boots fit fine (they are touching the lips) but just need a few more millimeters to get them on. Ill be getting some hose clamps. The bike has a horrible hesitation in 1st gear when accelerating (it makes that tick tick tick noise cars make when you drop the clutch in first gear too fast and dont give it enough gas).
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:48 AM   #1132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Domiken View Post
Thanks guys, the boots fit fine (they are touching the lips) but just need a few more millimeters to get them on. Ill be getting some hose clamps. The bike has a horrible hesitation in 1st gear when accelerating (it makes that tick tick tick noise cars make when you drop the clutch in first gear too fast and dont give it enough gas).
Although I do not have a NINJA yet. I have fought the carb. to air box boots on other bikes. I've used and had excellent luck with a light coating of dielectric grease on the mating surfaces. Plus the dielectric is friendly to the rubber components and does not leave a big mess to clean up.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:25 PM   #1133
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Originally Posted by facetjoint View Post
Although I do not have a NINJA yet. I have fought the carb. to air box boots on other bikes. I've used and had excellent luck with a light coating of dielectric grease on the mating surfaces. Plus the dielectric is friendly to the rubber components and does not leave a big mess to clean up.
Thanks for the tip
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:29 AM   #1134
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My quick 400 mile report on the 2003 Ninja 250.

It's supposed to be my gf's bike but she's not ridden it much- that's her in the pic. However, I've been busy with it Upgrades wise, I've changed the brake pads to the EBC HH Sintered pads all around, installed Pirelli M75s, .70kg Sonic fork springs are here as well as the 15T front sprocket, all of which I felt were required upgrades after spending some time on the bike and reading Ninja250.org. Next on the list is the rear EX500 shock if I can find one in decent shape. Three things I wish it had: 3" more leg room, 15-20mm fatter tires so it doesn't look like a bicycle from the back, a bit more torque/power to get ahead of the the darn cages starting at the lights - these would make it just about the perfect little bike- for me. I guess that would be the EX500 huh?

Everytime I take it to the local canyon roads I'm grinning ear to ear, I feel like I'm going at a higher rate of speeds compared to the big ST1300, yet when I look down at the speedometer it's not that fast at all which I like. I don't need to be riding at excessive speeds to get the same grin factor as the bigger bikes. I hate to admit it but I'm having so much fun with the little Ninja that I'm actually thinking of selling the ST1300 and buying a mid-weight bike like the VFR 800, a VStrom or...call me nuts even a ZX6R/GSXR.

For what you can buy the 250s for, the gas mileage, the low cost of parts, insurance, the ease of manueverability etc they're probably the best bang-for-the-buck bikes out there. Someone used the Miata as a refrence and I think that's spot on (having raced the Spec-Miata series for several years).

To me the Ninja 250 is the underdog, grassroots, open-source equivalent of the bike world
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:41 AM   #1135
Jimmy the Heater
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Originally Posted by RussellH View Post


Someone used the Miata as a refrence and I think that's spot on (having raced the Spec-Miata series for several years).

To me the Ninja 250 is the underdog, grassroots, open-source equivalent of the bike world

Amen to that! I have a Miata and a Lil'Ninja and can agree totally.
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Old 05-15-2012, 02:25 PM   #1136
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Amen to that! I have a Miata and a Lil'Ninja and can agree totally.

Me too. And a 4th gen VFR.

They really are fantastic little bikes!

BTW regarding the fatter rear tire to avoid the bicycle look -- you can fit a 140 tire back there without mods I think (assuming you can find a 140 in a 16" -- I think there are some) -- but the handling suffers. I have a 120 on mine and it changes direction like a housefly!
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:41 PM   #1137
ddennis669
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To me the Ninja 250 is the underdog, grassroots, open-source equivalent of the bike world
Welcome to the Asylum.
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:45 AM   #1138
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Shock travel

Hey everyone,

I have a quick question; I've searched all over the internet so I figured it's time to come to the definitive source. Can anyone tell we what the shock stroke is on the pre-08' EX250? If it's easier, it would be just as good to find out the eye-to-eye measurement of the shock when fully compressed or the leverage ratio between the shock and the rear wheel. Any anecdotal information in this domain would at least be a start.

Thanks so much!
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:50 PM   #1139
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If it helps, part number is Uni-Trak 45014-0234-23J. Rear travel is 5.1 in (129.5 mm).
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:06 PM   #1140
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I did already know the wheel travel, but thank you. Here's what I've found so far (and please correct any errors as the internet has been known to spread inaccuracies once or twice before):

shock eye-to-eye length (extended)- 12.6"
shock eye-to-eye length (fully compressed)- ?
shock stroke- ?
spring rate- 440 in/lbs
rear wheel travel- 5.1"

The reason I want to know is that I'm investigating suitable donors for a fairly easy shock swap to go along with a dual sport front end swap on an ex250. I would definitely want more ride height but more travel would be desirable as well since the front would probably end up with about 9" of travel.

I know enough to know that just looking at the curb weight and wheel travel numbers of other bikes won't help me but I think that comparing the above parameters to those of the stock 250 shock should tell me something meaningful.
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