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Old 05-06-2012, 12:15 PM   #1111
Cat0020
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Looks to me you've added more semi-perminent weight in mounting rack than you can carry in that topcase.
Nice effort to fabricate stuff, tough..
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Old 05-06-2012, 04:01 PM   #1112
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I didn't fabricate it, the previous owner did. The whole mount doesn't weigh that much, it's aluminum diamond plate, not steel.
Is there another way that the top box can be mounted in a less cumbersome way? There aren't a whole lot of options available for the two-fiddys...

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Old 05-06-2012, 07:40 PM   #1113
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There is a forum on Ninja 250 cargo space at Ninjette.org. The forum includes a couple of DIYs for hardlocking saddlebag mounts and a couple for top boxes. Easiest mounting system seems to be using the FastRack luggage rack. Not sure how sturdy that would be for a heavier top box -- I've seen it used with soft tail bags.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:11 AM   #1114
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I use the SW-Motech aluminum rack and a Givi E45 (suitcase-sized) top box on my Concours 250. Looks like a dog, but works fine. For side bags, I think you're on the right track with connecting to the passenger footpegs, but I'd use tubular steel and a welder.
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:50 AM   #1115
Domiken
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Hey guys,

Does anyone have a K&N filter on the bike? The airbox on the Ninja has come off from the carbs and I cant get them on for the life of me (dont know what the hell is going on in there), the bike has a really slow get off since they came off (its a few millimeters off touching the airbox) so I was thinking of ripping the whole thing out and just adding the dual 2 into 1 K&N filter but wanted your thoughts on it before purchasing.
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:06 PM   #1116
bjorn240
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Don't do it. Figure out what's going on with the stock airbox and put it back on.
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:40 PM   #1117
Johnnie5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Domiken View Post
Hey guys,

Does anyone have a K&N filter on the bike? The airbox on the Ninja has come off from the carbs and I cant get them on for the life of me (dont know what the hell is going on in there), the bike has a really slow get off since they came off (its a few millimeters off touching the airbox) so I was thinking of ripping the whole thing out and just adding the dual 2 into 1 K&N filter but wanted your thoughts on it before purchasing.

iirc there is a bolt in the bottom of the airbox inside that bolts into the frame

loosen bolt when putting the airbox back on as its hole is elongated

once airbox is back on hold it in tight and then do the bolt back up
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:13 PM   #1118
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Domiken,

It would help to know the year of the bike.

I have a '96 and am very happily using a K&N filter in my airbox. The only thing I had to do was remove the filter brace from the airbox lid.

If you are dealing with an '88-'08 bike, yes, there is a screw that allows you to move the airbox/battery holder forward and back a bit.
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:21 AM   #1119
Domiken
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Thanks guys! It's a 2005 so all this should apply. Ill take a look at it this weekend.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:26 PM   #1120
Voidrider
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I keep thinking there are two possible K&N filters for use in the airbox. The one I have is a nearly box-like affair that uses hose clamps to fasten it to the Helmholtz resonator cones on the inside of the lid. For this style, you must remove the stock filter brace which is molded to the inside of the lid as well.

The other type is one that simply replaces the flat stock Kawasaki filter. Do not remove the brace if this is the type you have.

If you can move the airbox/battery holder a bit forward, and are still having trouble with the intake boots, a handy trick to soften the rubber up a bit is to remove them completely from the bike, and BOIL then in water for a few minutes. Sounds goofy, but does really work. Don't lose or forget the boot springs.

Edited for clarity.

Voidrider screwed with this post 05-08-2012 at 05:35 PM
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Old 05-09-2012, 03:54 AM   #1121
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Originally Posted by Voidrider View Post
...a handy trick to soften the rubber up a bit is to remove them completely from the bike, and BOIL then in water for a few minutes. Sounds goofy, but does really work. Don't lose or forget the boot springs.

Edited for clarity.
Can't emphasize this enough. Boil them for like 10-15 minutes and they should be fairly malleable. However - lose the boot springs. They're more of a PITA than they're worth. Swap them out for some hose clamps. It will make your life a little easier.
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:10 AM   #1122
Domiken
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Originally Posted by MotoSailorDC View Post
Can't emphasize this enough. Boil them for like 10-15 minutes and they should be fairly malleable. However - lose the boot springs. They're more of a PITA than they're worth. Swap them out for some hose clamps. It will make your life a little easier.
Thanks guys, the boots fit fine (they are touching the lips) but just need a few more millimeters to get them on. Ill be getting some hose clamps. The bike has a horrible hesitation in 1st gear when accelerating (it makes that tick tick tick noise cars make when you drop the clutch in first gear too fast and dont give it enough gas).
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:48 AM   #1123
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Originally Posted by Domiken View Post
Thanks guys, the boots fit fine (they are touching the lips) but just need a few more millimeters to get them on. Ill be getting some hose clamps. The bike has a horrible hesitation in 1st gear when accelerating (it makes that tick tick tick noise cars make when you drop the clutch in first gear too fast and dont give it enough gas).
Although I do not have a NINJA yet. I have fought the carb. to air box boots on other bikes. I've used and had excellent luck with a light coating of dielectric grease on the mating surfaces. Plus the dielectric is friendly to the rubber components and does not leave a big mess to clean up.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:25 PM   #1124
Domiken
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Originally Posted by facetjoint View Post
Although I do not have a NINJA yet. I have fought the carb. to air box boots on other bikes. I've used and had excellent luck with a light coating of dielectric grease on the mating surfaces. Plus the dielectric is friendly to the rubber components and does not leave a big mess to clean up.
Thanks for the tip
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:29 AM   #1125
RussellH
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My quick 400 mile report on the 2003 Ninja 250.

It's supposed to be my gf's bike but she's not ridden it much- that's her in the pic. However, I've been busy with it Upgrades wise, I've changed the brake pads to the EBC HH Sintered pads all around, installed Pirelli M75s, .70kg Sonic fork springs are here as well as the 15T front sprocket, all of which I felt were required upgrades after spending some time on the bike and reading Ninja250.org. Next on the list is the rear EX500 shock if I can find one in decent shape. Three things I wish it had: 3" more leg room, 15-20mm fatter tires so it doesn't look like a bicycle from the back, a bit more torque/power to get ahead of the the darn cages starting at the lights - these would make it just about the perfect little bike- for me. I guess that would be the EX500 huh?

Everytime I take it to the local canyon roads I'm grinning ear to ear, I feel like I'm going at a higher rate of speeds compared to the big ST1300, yet when I look down at the speedometer it's not that fast at all which I like. I don't need to be riding at excessive speeds to get the same grin factor as the bigger bikes. I hate to admit it but I'm having so much fun with the little Ninja that I'm actually thinking of selling the ST1300 and buying a mid-weight bike like the VFR 800, a VStrom or...call me nuts even a ZX6R/GSXR.

For what you can buy the 250s for, the gas mileage, the low cost of parts, insurance, the ease of manueverability etc they're probably the best bang-for-the-buck bikes out there. Someone used the Miata as a refrence and I think that's spot on (having raced the Spec-Miata series for several years).

To me the Ninja 250 is the underdog, grassroots, open-source equivalent of the bike world
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