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Old 05-19-2012, 07:53 AM   #2371
Aprilia
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Location: Flagstaff, AZ
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KLR carb installation....basically 3 methods. As previously mentioned; lift the subframe up, drop the subframe down or...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTdtrcPfb8k
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:58 AM   #2372
NHMatt
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I have had mine off a few times now and it gets easier. I only have to slide it in and work a flat screwdriver around to get the rubber on. Putting the choke back on is a whole other monster.

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Old 05-19-2012, 08:43 AM   #2373
CannonsvilleRider
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How often do you find a 2004 KLR650 with 4 miles?

I just stopped by my local dealer to pickup a face shield. He had a 2004 KLR650 with 4 miles sitting there for $3500. Yes only 4 miles! Is there any reason I shouldn't buy it?

The bike is at Klinger Powersports in Walton, NY. I really don't have room for a 4th motorcycle, why don't you one of you YFF's save me from myself and buy it first.
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Old 05-19-2012, 09:11 AM   #2374
NHMatt
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Are there certain signs to watch for that tell you to add valve shims? I know taking off the valve cover and checking is the right way but would the engine have any noises or loss of power if it needed it?

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Old 05-19-2012, 09:32 AM   #2375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CannonsvilleRider View Post
I just stopped by my local dealer to pickup a face shield. He had a 2004 KLR650 with 4 miles sitting there for $3500. Yes only 4 miles!
Wow, that's crazy! The local dealer has a 2006 with 30,000 miles on it for $4200.
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Old 05-19-2012, 01:34 PM   #2376
kckeeny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aprilia View Post
KLR carb installation....basically 3 methods. As previously mentioned; lift the subframe up, drop the subframe down or...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTdtrcPfb8k
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevBill View Post
.. lol .. I discovered this little trick recently when one of the upper sub-frame bolts broke and I had to do a drill-through .. once you pull those bolts up top and let the sub-frame rotate back just a smidge it'll pull that boot right off the rear of the carb .. a ratchet strap will pull everything back into place and you're good to go ..

.. best of luck ..
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROYAL COACHMAN View Post
Typically, you have to remove the lower sub frame bolts then raise the rear of the sub frame up so that the gap between the air box and carb is greater.

This method is not as difficult as it sounds
I have done this without raising the sub frame but it is a pain in the ass!
Thanks peeps! I wish that I would have saw these before I struggled. At least next time it will not be so daunting.
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:44 PM   #2377
stringsmovie
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2008 KLR650 sputtering

I just purchased a 2008 KLR650 off of Craigslist and am already having issues. It had 1300 miles on it and can't seem to get more than 150 miles before it hits the reserve tank. After adjusting my riding style and going easy on the throttle, it's still getting about that many miles. My bigger issue though is that when I do rev the throttle (at any speed) it sputters like its about to run out of gas. There's also a loud knocking noise that comes with revving the throttle too much.

Since I bought the bike, I've done the following (with no positive results)

OIl and filter change.
Tightened chain
New Rear Tire
New Uni Air Filter
Kicked and screamed

Anybody have a clue what is going on?
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Old 05-19-2012, 09:16 PM   #2378
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Has he modded the exhaust but not touched the carb? Might be super lean
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Old 05-19-2012, 09:20 PM   #2379
RevBill
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.. welcome to the KLR madness ..

... in no particular order ..

.. make sure your chain is not to tight or you will/may discover what a pain in the arse it is to change the counter sprocket seal (real obvious when it goes as you will suddenly have oil weeping out and ruining your day) .. "setting the sag" is something you will become a master off pretty quickly if you are not already ..

.. the rest of your fuel is sitting in the right side of the tank .. drives my crazy too .. there's a mod to fix that though .. it involves some fuel line and an in-tank aviation filter .. or you get used to leaning your bike hard-over to the left (you can do it on the side-stand too, just don't drop your bike on yourself) ..

.. rejet your carb and/or do the .22cent mod .. nothing crazy .. just opens up the bike enough to get her running right/better and takes care of that knocking .. while your at it, drill out the plug over the fuel mixture screw if no one has yet and reset the mix .. you may find that is enough without the rejet or .22cfent mod ..

.. ahh .. the joys of owning a KLR ..
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:22 PM   #2380
FixerDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stringsmovie View Post
I just purchased a 2008 KLR650 off of Craigslist and am already having issues...
Did these problems begin after having the bike for a while or were they from day-1?

If progressive, I'd check things that change, like the petcock and fuel filter/lines for being plugged, check that the choke is properly attached, that there are no vacuum leaks around the intake, etc. I'd also check the valve clearance.

If they happened from day-1, then you know why the bike was for sale. If the seller was mechanically competent, you may be in trouble. If not, then start with the above and go from there.

Don't despair... it can be fixed. Might cost a bit, but it's not rocket science... it's a KLR, more like tractor science.
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Old 05-20-2012, 05:16 AM   #2381
Murphy Slaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandalscout View Post
Wow, that's crazy! The local dealer has a 2006 with 30,000 miles on it for $4200.
Yep.

One thing I've noticed since saving up for / researching KLR's is the prices are all over the map.

There appears to be no method to the madness........
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:25 AM   #2382
sandalscout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphy Slaw View Post
Yep.

One thing I've noticed since saving up for / researching KLR's is the prices are all over the map.

There appears to be no method to the madness........
Yeah, when looking at other bikes, they tend to cluster around a price and change only slightly for worse or better condition bikes, as expected. I've seen KLRs in fairly similar shape (but over a large range in years) go for $300 to $4800. Got a great deal on mine, so I'm happy though!
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:47 AM   #2383
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Check with the PO to see what has been done to the bike, that'll give you a quick understanding of where you might want to start. Another suggestion: Make sure the connections around the carb are tight. IE air filter boot, intake boot, screws on top of the carb. And as others say check the carb settings/jets esp if those were dorked with...

GL!

Quote:
Originally Posted by stringsmovie View Post
I just purchased a 2008 KLR650 off of Craigslist and am already having issues. It had 1300 miles on it and can't seem to get more than 150 miles before it hits the reserve tank. After adjusting my riding style and going easy on the throttle, it's still getting about that many miles. My bigger issue though is that when I do rev the throttle (at any speed) it sputters like its about to run out of gas. There's also a loud knocking noise that comes with revving the throttle too much.

Since I bought the bike, I've done the following (with no positive results)

OIl and filter change.
Tightened chain
New Rear Tire
New Uni Air Filter
Kicked and screamed

Anybody have a clue what is going on?
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:56 AM   #2384
stringsmovie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pchGS View Post
Check with the PO to see what has been done to the bike, that'll give you a quick understanding of where you might want to start. Another suggestion: Make sure the connections around the carb are tight. IE air filter boot, intake boot, screws on top of the carb. And as others say check the carb settings/jets esp if those were dorked with...

GL!
Great idea! Tracked down the original owner and it was as simple as swapping out the exhaust. I'd reverted to the original more quiet exhaust but he had the bike set up for his aftermarket one.

Thanks everybody!
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Old 05-20-2012, 01:11 PM   #2385
Yokomo
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Well that would do it. Super rich.
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