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05-19-2012, 07:53 AM
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#2371 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Oddometer: 340
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KLR carb installation....basically 3 methods. As previously mentioned; lift the subframe up, drop the subframe down or...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTdtrcPfb8k |
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05-19-2012, 07:58 AM
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#2372 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Newport News VA
Oddometer: 269
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I have had mine off a few times now and it gets easier. I only have to slide it in and work a flat screwdriver around to get the rubber on. Putting the choke back on is a whole other monster.
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Check out my KLR650 engine rebuild @ http://myklr.wordpress.com/ |
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05-19-2012, 08:43 AM
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#2373 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: North of Cannonsville, NY
Oddometer: 175
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How often do you find a 2004 KLR650 with 4 miles?
I just stopped by my local dealer to pickup a face shield. He had a 2004 KLR650 with 4 miles sitting there for $3500. Yes only 4 miles! Is there any reason I shouldn't buy it?
The bike is at Klinger Powersports in Walton, NY. I really don't have room for a 4th motorcycle, why don't you one of you YFF's save me from myself and buy it first. |
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05-19-2012, 09:11 AM
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#2374 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Newport News VA
Oddometer: 269
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Are there certain signs to watch for that tell you to add valve shims? I know taking off the valve cover and checking is the right way but would the engine have any noises or loss of power if it needed it?
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__________________
Check out my KLR650 engine rebuild @ http://myklr.wordpress.com/ |
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05-19-2012, 09:32 AM
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#2375 |
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blah blah blah
Joined: May 2010
Location: Clarksville, TN
Oddometer: 1,375
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Wow, that's crazy! The local dealer has a 2006 with 30,000 miles on it for $4200.
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05-19-2012, 01:34 PM
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#2376 | |||
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Poor Bastard
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Sconsin
Oddometer: 2,389
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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Don't Add quirky statement here. |
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05-19-2012, 08:44 PM
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#2377 |
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stringsmovie
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 13
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2008 KLR650 sputtering
I just purchased a 2008 KLR650 off of Craigslist and am already having issues. It had 1300 miles on it and can't seem to get more than 150 miles before it hits the reserve tank. After adjusting my riding style and going easy on the throttle, it's still getting about that many miles. My bigger issue though is that when I do rev the throttle (at any speed) it sputters like its about to run out of gas. There's also a loud knocking noise that comes with revving the throttle too much.
Since I bought the bike, I've done the following (with no positive results) OIl and filter change. Tightened chain New Rear Tire New Uni Air Filter Kicked and screamed Anybody have a clue what is going on? |
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05-19-2012, 09:16 PM
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#2378 |
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Gorilla Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: The Little Apple
Oddometer: 1,951
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Has he modded the exhaust but not touched the carb? Might be super lean
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bikes |
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05-19-2012, 09:20 PM
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#2379 |
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Irreverent Reverend
Joined: May 2008
Location: Mayodan, NC
Oddometer: 2,078
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.. welcome to the KLR madness ..
... in no particular order ..
.. make sure your chain is not to tight or you will/may discover what a pain in the arse it is to change the counter sprocket seal (real obvious when it goes as you will suddenly have oil weeping out and ruining your day) .. "setting the sag" is something you will become a master off pretty quickly if you are not already .. .. the rest of your fuel is sitting in the right side of the tank .. drives my crazy too .. there's a mod to fix that though .. it involves some fuel line and an in-tank aviation filter .. or you get used to leaning your bike hard-over to the left (you can do it on the side-stand too, just don't drop your bike on yourself) .. .. rejet your carb and/or do the .22cent mod .. nothing crazy .. just opens up the bike enough to get her running right/better and takes care of that knocking .. while your at it, drill out the plug over the fuel mixture screw if no one has yet and reset the mix .. you may find that is enough without the rejet or .22cfent mod .. .. ahh .. the joys of owning a KLR ..
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"On the road less traveled there ain't no TP, bring your own and that will make all the difference.." RevBill's SmugMug Shenanigans My '06 KLR |
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05-19-2012, 11:22 PM
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#2380 | |
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KLR-650
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Oddometer: 260
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Quote:
If progressive, I'd check things that change, like the petcock and fuel filter/lines for being plugged, check that the choke is properly attached, that there are no vacuum leaks around the intake, etc. I'd also check the valve clearance. If they happened from day-1, then you know why the bike was for sale. If the seller was mechanically competent, you may be in trouble. If not, then start with the above and go from there. Don't despair... it can be fixed. Might cost a bit, but it's not rocket science... it's a KLR, more like tractor science.
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05-20-2012, 05:16 AM
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#2381 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Southern Illinois
Oddometer: 874
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05-20-2012, 06:25 AM
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#2382 |
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blah blah blah
Joined: May 2010
Location: Clarksville, TN
Oddometer: 1,375
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Yeah, when looking at other bikes, they tend to cluster around a price and change only slightly for worse or better condition bikes, as expected. I've seen KLRs in fairly similar shape (but over a large range in years) go for $300 to $4800. Got a great deal on mine, so I'm happy though!
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05-20-2012, 07:47 AM
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#2383 | |
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Mark
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Vancouver, WA
Oddometer: 97
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Check with the PO to see what has been done to the bike, that'll give you a quick understanding of where you might want to start. Another suggestion: Make sure the connections around the carb are tight. IE air filter boot, intake boot, screws on top of the carb. And as others say check the carb settings/jets esp if those were dorked with...
GL! Quote:
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Ride Safe! 2006 BMW R1200RT 2006 KLR 688
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05-20-2012, 11:56 AM
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#2384 | |
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stringsmovie
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 13
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Quote:
Thanks everybody! |
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05-20-2012, 01:11 PM
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#2385 |
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Gorilla Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: The Little Apple
Oddometer: 1,951
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Well that would do it. Super rich.
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