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Old 05-21-2012, 05:47 AM   #16
fiwi OP
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So, if i was to get a 1/4 drive wrench with a range of 5 to 30 nm and a 3/8 drive wrench with 20 to 100nm range, would that be enough to cover pretty much everything?
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:09 PM   #17
conrado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiwi View Post
So, if i was to get a 1/4 drive wrench with a range of 5 to 30 nm and a 3/8 drive wrench with 20 to 100nm range, would that be enough to cover pretty much everything?
Sounds good.
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Old 05-21-2012, 01:25 PM   #18
GH41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiwi View Post
So, if i was to get a 1/4 drive wrench with a range of 5 to 30 nm and a 3/8 drive wrench with 20 to 100nm range, would that be enough to cover pretty much everything?
I would get the 5-30 in 3/8' drive also. Adapting down to 1/4" at the lower range for the little sockets if needed. GH
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:03 PM   #19
sno-where
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Torque wrenches need periodic calibration to stay precise. If you are not going to do that, you are better off with the old school beam type wrenches, which are more accurate, but more difficult to use. I keep a beam type in my home garage which I use for most my bike needs. In the shop I manage/work in, we get our torque wrenches calibrated yearly, but to tell the truth, we only use them for head studs and similar, everything else we can just tighten by experience. Little fasteners take a wrench and you go to ‘tight’ and then a little more. You can train yourself to know what different torques should feel like by tightening stuff with the torque wrench, and then doing it by hand and checking with the torque wrench.

One thing to keep in mind, any extension or addapter on the wrench will alter the torque being applied. Just a small adapter or extension, the change is minimal. Larger stuff it can be more problematic. I was doing the head bolts on a Audi engine this week that required a long extension with a wobble extension too. I had to adjust that torque upwards to ensure the stud was properly torqued.
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Old 05-23-2012, 04:48 AM   #20
MikeMike
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The only reason a math factor would have to be applied to a torque wrench with a wobbler is because you might be changing the angle just enough to create a forward extension of the torque wrench when wobbler "wobbles".
Using an adapter or an extension which simply runs perpendicular to the torque wrench changes nothing. The torque will be the same. However, if you effectively extend the torque wrench by using a crows foot type wrench end or the special tool required for the head torquing on say a KDX for example, then you have to apply the math factor to get it right.

Let's do the math SEE NOTE

R = T X L
L + A

NOTE:
I can't get the forum to put the L + A part directly under the T X L part for some reason the spacing won't work. Please take this into account that the T X L is over the L + A like an equation.

Where R is the corrected torque factor
T is the torque called for in the manual you are using
L is the lever length of your torque wrench from center of the grip to center of the drive (center to center)
A is the extension length from drive to drive (where it attaches to the wrench and where it attaches to the bolt you are torquing)

Easy as Pi, no? LOL! ;)

MikeMike screwed with this post 05-23-2012 at 05:02 AM
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