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Old 05-25-2012, 03:02 PM   #46
2fast4u OP
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I made a new front brake mount out of steel . The first one i did not have all of the pad on the rotor. JD was right about Kenda big blocks they suck. I have 600 miles on this tire and it looks half shot! I went ahead and order a TKC. NEVER BUY BIG BLOCKS.




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Old 05-26-2012, 04:18 AM   #47
buls4evr
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One of the real limitations of that wheel size is the lack of OR rubber to put on them. The big blocks have a bad reputation already (most Kendas are cheap and wear out fast IMO). TKCs are not very precise in that size either as they are actually rear tires. I bet an older set of KX USD forks and wheel would fit on that "Duck on a Junebug"....
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Old 05-26-2012, 05:15 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
One of the real limitations of that wheel size is the lack of OR rubber to put on them. The big blocks have a bad reputation already (most Kendas are cheap and wear out fast IMO). TKCs are not very precise in that size either as they are actually rear tires. I bet an older set of KX USD forks and wheel would fit on that "Duck on a Junebug"....
I could mount any 21" wheel to the DRZ forks i would have to make new wheel spacers and brake mount but the rotor on a dirt bike wheel is not big enough to stop this heavy bike, and i do not want to run tubes. This bike is good on dirt, gravel, pavement but stay out of the deep mud.. This might piss some people off but IMO no matter what you do it will never be a dirt bike just like the big BMW GS, VERSYS, V STROM will never be a dirt bike.
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Old 05-26-2012, 05:44 AM   #49
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I did get a radiator guard on the Ninja. I will have to watch it and see if it is to restrictive.



inja
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:08 AM   #50
TroyJ650
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Originally Posted by 2fast4u View Post
I did get a radiator guard on the Ninja. I will have to watch it and see if it is to restrictive.



inja
I'm thinking it will be this weekend,,,, we'll see for sure on Monday.
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Old 05-26-2012, 04:24 PM   #51
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Nice work! Yeah^^ pull that guard off and cover with half inch drill holes for sure. Or maybe go mesh?
looks like a good time.
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Old 05-26-2012, 05:38 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by 2fast4u View Post
I did get a radiator guard on the Ninja. I will have to watch it and see if it is to restrictive.
i'll save ya some watching...it's too restrictive, especially with the smaller radiator. the kawasaki folks went with the larger Versys radiator on the late model ER6 motos for a reason. the smaller radiator will work fine, but you need max air flow.

how was that piece cut? it looks like you can save the part if it is slotted on an intermediate layout, and a couple more rows added across the top.
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Old 05-26-2012, 07:00 PM   #53
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i'll save ya some watching...it's too restrictive, especially with the smaller radiator. the kawasaki folks went with the larger Versys radiator on the late model ER6 motos for a reason. the smaller radiator will work fine, but you need max air flow.

how was that piece cut? it looks like you can save the part if it is slotted on an intermediate layout, and a couple more rows added across the top.
I think i will change to a versys this winter. My guard is off my old grill. I think i will cut some more slots for now and see how that goes.
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Old 05-27-2012, 02:50 PM   #54
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I cut it up a bit. Going for a day ride in the heat ( Close to 100) monday it should be ok now.



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Old 05-28-2012, 02:34 PM   #55
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Went for a all day ride with Troy in Land between the lakes and had a blast and also found some limits on the Ninja. Here is a few pics but i will post a link to a you tube video later










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Old 05-28-2012, 05:09 PM   #56
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ha ha. was the case damage from a crash cage hit or from bottoming the bike out? the peg pic has me spooked, too
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Old 05-28-2012, 05:36 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by 2fast4u View Post
Went for a all day ride with Troy in Land between the lakes and had a blast and also found some limits on the Ninja. Here is a few pics but i will post a link to a you tube video later








when you use the Versys linked shifter mechanism with the Versys footrest mounts, the loads are distributed more evenly around the shaft and onto the casting. they do break, but no where near as often as might be expected. here you have the conventional shifter and an unsupported shaft.

the cracked engine mount must be directly related to the bar design and mount, the first i've seen. i could be mistaken without having a look at it in person, but i did write..."also, the bike needs to be able to slide forward on the bars, not grab the surface, no matter what it is. if the bike can't slide, you could see damage that might not happen otherwise."

ya should be able to get it fixed up without difficulty.
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Old 05-28-2012, 05:40 PM   #58
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ha ha. was the case damage from a crash cage hit or from bottoming the bike out? the peg pic has me spooked, too
Bottoming the rear out. Did not crash but close. I was running down a dirt road around 30 mph (after watching video maybe 40 mph) and went over a small rise and a three foot deep twelve foot wide ditch appeared, no way i could stop so i gassed it and got the front over but the back wheel hit and the whole bike bounced off the ground. I was very lucky. The crash bar did not hit the ground but the muffler took a big hit.
I really like this bike but i learned a lesson today i have to SLOW DOWN haha, i'm way to old to take a chance like that and i'm sure that would have left a mark!!
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Old 05-28-2012, 05:46 PM   #59
2fast4u OP
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Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
when you use the Versys linked shifter mechanism with the Versys footrest mounts, the loads are distributed more evenly around the shaft and onto the casting. they do break, but no where near as often as might be expected. here you have the conventional shifter and an unsupported shaft.

the cracked engine mount must be directly related to the bar design and mount, the first i've seen. i could be mistaken without having a look at it in person, but i did write..."also, the bike needs to be able to slide forward on the bars, not grab the surface, no matter what it is. if the bike can't slide, you could see damage that might not happen otherwise."

ya should be able to get it fixed up without difficulty.
It want be a big deal to fix but i did not crash you will see in my video if this slow computer will every get it loaded.
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:49 PM   #60
TroyJ650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
.....the cracked engine mount must be directly related to the bar design and mount, the first i've seen. i could be mistaken without having a look at it in person, but i did write..."also, the bike needs to be able to slide forward on the bars, not grab the surface, no matter what it is. if the bike can't slide, you could see damage that might not happen otherwise."

ya should be able to get it fixed up without difficulty.


The crash bar never hit the ground, shouldn't be factor. The bike stayed upright. It bounced around alot, but stayed upright. The pipe and muffler seemed to take most of the impact. I would have expected the pipes to be crushed flat, but they held up great. It's very possible the weight of the engine pulling down put more pressure on that point than any engineer ever imagined it would see.

Jeff probably won't admit it here, but he was freakin' FLYING when he hit the wash out crossing the road, and pulled 40 years of moto experience out of his a$$ to save it. We'd still be sorting out the peices if he hadn't known to get the front end over it. Great save. (Don't let it go to your head, you still ride a Harley.... )
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DL1000 V-Strom - sold
DRZ400E oh wait, make that DRZ 434 E/S/SM/ADV !
"Give me fuel, give me fire, give me that which I desire" J. Hetfield
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