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Old 06-05-2012, 10:14 PM   #13351
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,504
Quote:
Originally Posted by locorider View Post
Further research will tell you that part# 90128mv1000 hex bolt was used on the 1987 xr600r. :)
Thanks, Carlos. I'll get one on order. I've used both of thoes sites and others. Sometimes it's hard to figure out just what your looking at. Just wasn't sure I could successfully use the TA pro link with the AT arm. I guess there is a clearance problem that necessitates the socket head bolt ? Haven't got into that yet, working on solving other puzzels.
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:32 AM   #13352
mas335
xendurist
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
Oddometer: 1,895
Quote:
Originally Posted by Backonthebike View Post
Thanks Petrus,
When I got the bike it was in pieces and the plastics were so smashed up (and replacements hard to find) that I just did a cheap and cheerful makeover.
The front radiator shrouds are aluminium from an old road sign!
The high front mudguard is purely aesthetic, and was me poking fun at the BMW beak.
Only later did I find out that Suzuki had sone something similar with the DR Big many years before BMW.
Transalps of this age are pretty rare in Australia, which is strange because we have a lot of opportunity for ADV riding down here.
Unlike the professionals on this board (Ladder, Mas, Locorider) I have done nothing to the suspension and brakes other than change the oil in the front forks. Instead, I ride the bike in country that the suspension can cope with (mostly!), and if I want to try more technical stuff, I use my DRZ.


I have three bikes:
  1. 2009 Yamaha TDM 900 (90% road use)
  2. 1987 Transalp (50% road/offroad)
  3. 2009 DRZ 400 (90% offroad) (that's it in the lower photo; 17 litre tank so a range of about 350 km - also an ADV bike)
so I'm lucky enough to have the right bike for every occasion, and all for less that $20,000 AUD.
Cheers
Tim


I think the "Professor" ( Ladder) out shines us all when it comes to suspension knowledge. I just know where the parts go, Ray knows how to make them work better.
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Old 06-06-2012, 06:56 AM   #13353
Petrus
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: The Netherlands
Oddometer: 39
The front radiator shrouds are aluminium from an old road sign!
The high front mudguard is purely aesthetic, and was me poking fun at the BMW beak.

Yes those mudguards are the fashion thing now. toke me a while to get used to them.






I have three bikes:
  1. 2009 Yamaha TDM 900 (90% road use)
  2. 1987 Transalp (50% road/offroad)
  3. 2009 DRZ 400 (90% offroad) (that's it in the lower photo; 17 litre tank so a range of about 350 km - also an ADV bike)
I have 2 at the moment, Buell uly and a old HD shovel. I used to have all semi dirt bikes and allroads, one way ore another I ended up on the buell. 95% road hahahaha but its suits the purpose I'm using it for at the moment.
But.. TA's are still old love and I have spent alot of km's on them.

Cheers
Petrus
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Old 06-06-2012, 03:52 PM   #13354
jorrizza
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: the Netherlands
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Been lurking here for a while. My Alp's now somewhat complete, so here's a pic from today.



Modified quite a few bits and pieces. Half the SW-Motech catalog. Sump guard, crash bars, luggage system, tank ring, etc. The Givi high wind screen works okay, but is a little noisy. Just put her on Heidenau K60 tires, which came highly recommended. I concur. These are better than the TKC80s which I had before, except in sand. And there's a custom one-of-a-kind GPS mount:



Doesn't look great, but works like a charm.
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:47 PM   #13355
Santa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
I do not believe there is any difference between the RD04 and Transalp suspension links other than the large allen bolt that attaches it to the AT swingarm and I think that can be sourced from other US Honda parts..

Not sure about the RD04 but the RD03 and 89 TA links were quite different.
I found that when I used the TA link I just blew thru the suspension stroke.
Just changing to the RD03 link made for a more progressive feel in the spring rate.
I think it made all the difference on my bike.
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:41 AM   #13356
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,504
Quote:
Originally Posted by Santa View Post
Not sure about the RD04 but the RD03 and 89 TA links were quite different.
I found that when I used the TA link I just blew thru the suspension stroke.
Just changing to the RD03 link made for a more progressive feel in the spring rate.
I think it made all the difference on my bike.
That's kinda what I was remembering from one of Ray's posts:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....postcount=2209
And IIRC ravelv came up with at least three different arms and three different links,( 03, 04, & 07 I think) but I don't remember if anyone figured out what worked with what on the TA ??? I think I have an RD04 swing arm, although if there are three different length arms I can't be sure. It was bought by the PO in Italy. Didn't get the link with it. If anyone knows what works, I'm all . Or for that matter, if you know what combination doesn't work, that would be helpful also. I'm not looking for hard core off road, just dirt road and easy Colorado jeep trail/pass capable, with near stock ride height.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 06-08-2012 at 12:06 PM
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:18 PM   #13357
Ladder106
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Location: Davis, CA
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Misinformation

Oooopsss..

You're right, there was a difference in the triangular link. It was the "U" shaped link that was the same size...

Apologies....my bad.
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:49 PM   #13358
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,504
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Oooopsss..

You're right, there was a difference in the triangular link. It was the "U" shaped link that was the same size...

Apologies....my bad.
No problem. It hasn't been that long sense I read this whole thread, and lucky, I did take some notes (my memory's not that good). Still can't find the pictures ravelv took of the three arms and links. So, I'm guessing I still need the RD04 triangular link part to go with the RD04 swingarm ???
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Old 06-09-2012, 03:41 AM   #13359
ravelv
from Baltic side of river
 
Joined: May 2008
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Unfortunately even attached images here are lost time by time...

Triangular links are same between RD03 and RD04 as well as their placement (against frame mounts) on swingarms of RD3&RD04 are same also (but total lengh of swingarms is different).
RD07 have different triangular link as well as placement on swingarm is also different, so, to get proper progression curve you have to use RD07 triangular link and swingarm.

But RD03 and RD04 parts you can mix freely.

What is totally same- U-link- AT's and 600cc TA's share same part.

I would not suggest to use TA triangular link on AT's swing- most of wheel travel is on progression curve's beginning, suspension feels very soft....

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
No problem. It hasn't been that long sense I read this whole thread, and lucky, I did take some notes (my memory's not that good). Still can't find the pictures ravelv took of the three arms and links. So, I'm guessing I still need the RD04 triangular link part to go with the RD04 swingarm ???
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Old 06-09-2012, 05:32 AM   #13360
drivefastandswerve
Indianapolis
 
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Motogp Capital: Indianapolis, Indiana
Oddometer: 154
Wicked National Transalp Rally (Oct 11-14, 2012)

The Ironhorse Motorcycle Lodge is proud to present the 2012 Fall Trans Alp
rally at our facility starting October 11-14th.

We will have dual sport rides for the area, tech session and upgrades
discussion, door prizes, and beer drinking around the campfire at night.

The time of year is peak leaf season here and the weather is usually
fantastic for camping or just enjoying the mountains. Couple that with a
bunch of TA riders and we have chemistry for a great annual rally.

Currently we have lots of cabins, rooms, and tenting camping plus RV spots
so making plans to attend the rally as soon as possible.

Due to the limited number of TA's I plan on including all NX and XLR
riders of the era.

Call the Ironhorse at 828-479-3864 or email me at john@ironhorsenc.com for
updates.

A rally like this take participation and this group will become the
nucleus of future rallies.

Lets make this a great one.

Let me know if you are available and invite friends

John Powell
Ironhorse Motorcycle Lodge
Robbinsville, NC
828-479-3864 Office
404-735-0554 Cell
john@ironhorsenc.com
www.ironhorsenc.com
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There really is no such thing as a 5 minute job!

1989 Honda Transalp (Gotta get it dirtier!)
2000 BMW R1100RT (Iron Butt Qualified)
1993 Honda XR250L (Great woods bike)
Misc mini-bikes (71 Honda Z50, 75 Honda XL70, 73 CT70, 79 XR80)
1973 Suzuki TM125 (vintage racer)
1974 Suzuki TM100 (Racer, when it's repaired!)
Misc motorcycle crap from many swapmeets!
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:20 AM   #13361
Ladder106
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Location: Davis, CA
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Sounds Like Fun

Hmmmmm............

Ship the bike there...then ride back to the left coast afterward
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:55 AM   #13362
locorider
Loco, pero no estúpido!
 
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Puerto Rico, U.S.A.
Oddometer: 2,466
Quote:
Originally Posted by ladder106 View Post
hmmmmm............

Ship the bike there...then ride back to the left coast afterward
do it!
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1989 Honda XL600V Transalp, slightly modified!

"If you don't follow your dreams, you might as well be a vegetable", Burt Munro, The World's Fastest Indian
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:57 AM   #13363
R_Rick
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Halifax, NS
Oddometer: 310
It's alive!

After messing around for an hour here and there for past few weeks my TA is back to life.

Few pages back I mentioned that I discovered an enrichment plunger/plug/cylinder (what ever it is called) that had the rubber boot separated from the plastic nut. the cable was full of crap that wasn't allowing it to open and close smoothly.



I scrubbed, cleaned, and lube'd the cable so it now moves freely.

I put carbs back in, hooked everything up, hit the starter, and ..... nothing! Engine was trying to turn over but wasn't catching. Pulled the front plugs and they were wet. Damn I thought - seems to be flooding. Pulled carbs back out, checked them over, measured float heights, etc. Everything looked fine so put back in, hooked up, hit starter, and .... nothing, except wet plugs again.

Decided it couldn't be the carbs ... almost like I'm getting no spark. Pull the rear cyl plug, check for spark - nothing. Pull the front cyl plug ... nothing. Kill switch perhaps.

Removed the switch assembly harness and check the switch, which was making proper contact. Check wire continuity and find nothing through one wire (the black with white stripe which loops to the cdi). Checked for continuity inside the switch and at the outside solder tab - still nothing. About half way down the wire harness was ~4 inch of electrical tape. I peeled the tape off and saw three wires that had heat shrink on them. Sometime in the past 25 years these wire were cut and "repaired".

I cut the shrink off the kill switch wire and see the following:





Pics are a bit blurry, but there is not a drop of solder on the splice. If it was there it had long since deteriorated. the wires had a very loose single wrap to them and was barely making contact.

Cut the shrink off the other two wires. Here is the best join of the three.



Tracked down some 18ga wire in a few close colours, cut section out of wire, scrubbed off the oxidation, soldered a few inline splices, new heat shrink, new section of cable covering.

Went out to shed this morning, plugged everything in, turn on key, barely move the choke cable (out about 1/8th), hit the start button .... instantly started and idled along. Gave a bit of throttle, rev'd up without issue.

Needless to say I am very happy this morning. Unfortunately in middle of a storm right now so am going to wait to put everything back together and go for a test run.

I've had the carbs in and out so many times in the past 3 weeks that I'm sure I can do it blindfolded now. I ordered a couple of #40 slow jets which ended up on back order. After getting carbs back in last weekend for the 10th time, I get a call on Tuesday that they were ready for pick up .... I think this will be a fall project now.

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who helped me along directly with ideas of things to check (as well as all those providing tidbits of info in the previous 890 pages).

Cheers

Rick

R_Rick screwed with this post 06-09-2012 at 07:18 AM
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:22 AM   #13364
Ladder106
It's a short cut, really
 
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Oddometer: 4,904
Nice bit of dectective work. Glad the bike is up and running.

Maybe a good time for going over the wiring harness to look for other signs of "repair" from previous owner(s).

Since your playing with electrons, it's also a good time to check the first 3-prong connection between the stator and rectifier. Keeping those contacts clean is a very good idea.

The bike should run just fine with the 38 pilots....the 40 just add a bit of help at the low end for some bikes.
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:37 AM   #13365
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,504
Quote:
Originally Posted by ravelv View Post
Unfortunately even attached images here are lost time by time...

Triangular links are same between RD03 and RD04 as well as their placement (against frame mounts) on swingarms of RD3&RD04 are same also (but total lengh of swingarms is different).
RD07 have different triangular link as well as placement on swingarm is also different, so, to get proper progression curve you have to use RD07 triangular link and swingarm.

But RD03 and RD04 parts you can mix freely.

What is totally same- U-link- AT's and 600cc TA's share same part.

I would not suggest to use TA triangular link on AT's swing- most of wheel travel is on progression curve's beginning, suspension feels very soft....
Thanks, That's just what I needed. Now, anyone have a RD03/RD04 triangle link they don't need ? Thanks again. PM please.
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