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Old 06-11-2012, 01:21 PM   #7066
nuggets
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Crossing a creek on my XT.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:24 PM   #7067
carlclaflin
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stock suspension

Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
Have you tightened up the pre-load on the rear spring? I've had 350lbs on my bike without too much of a problem. Loosen the lock-ring and tighten the spring. Make sure to adjust the rebound as well, which is the knob at the bottom of the shock. Try turning it both ways, it made a huge difference on mine. How many miles on the bike.

howdy, i'm pretty new to motorcycles and riding. i have a 1994 xt225, with about 9600+ miles. i just bought from a co-worker. the stock suspension seems pretty soft.
how do i adjust the rear suspension, so when 220 lbs of me sits down on it from sagging so much?
front suspension, if i add more air, will that make the front stiffer?
i don't have money to invest right now, got to get the bike paid off first and get me a riding jacket. so any help on how to adjust the suspension would help... i am gonna pick up a spanner wrench, i thought i had one from my military days-nope. if anyone has some good step by step instructions, that would be great.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:50 PM   #7068
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Originally Posted by carlclaflin View Post
...if anyone has some good step by step instructions, that would be great.
Welcome! Here's a link to Yamaha's website where you can download the owner's manual for a '98 XT225. You'll have to fill in the drop down boxes for "Product Line,"--use Motorcycle, "Year"--use 1998, and model. That's the nearest year to your model. I don't know what the differences are, but I don't think they are too great and should get you started on things like adjusting the rear shock, oil changes, chain tension, etc.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/se....aspx?ls=sport

Good luck.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:22 PM   #7069
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Quote:
Crossing a creek on my XT.
Fantastic picture!
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:08 PM   #7070
carlclaflin
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Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Welcome! Here's a link to Yamaha's website where you can download the owner's manual for a '98 XT225. You'll have to fill in the drop down boxes for "Product Line,"--use Motorcycle, "Year"--use 1998, and model. That's the nearest year to your model. I don't know what the differences are, but I don't think they are too great and should get you started on things like adjusting the rear shock, oil changes, chain tension, etc.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/se....aspx?ls=sport

Good luck.
Thank you, i will get reading and hope to have some luck in making my bike a better ride. so far it's been fun, riding around the neighborhood. i just completed the Idaho Star motorcycle education/skills class, and going to take my written test at the dmv thursdays...hopefully i'll pass. can't wait to get on the road/ off-road and have some fun.
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:25 PM   #7071
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Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
Fantastic picture!
Thanks,

I spent last Weds-Sun camping off of the bike in the mountains of VA while trying to avoid pavement as much as possible
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:45 PM   #7072
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Originally Posted by nuggets View Post
Thanks,

I spent last Weds-Sun camping off of the bike in the mountains of VA while trying to avoid pavement as much as possible

Which part of the VA mountains, north or south? I'm in Northwestern NC, about 45 minutes from Damascus, VA. I'd like to try crossing a creek like that, especially knowing somebody made it across before me.

I'm met a few rivers that just don't like letting bikers across!
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:00 PM   #7073
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Grrrr!

Hey everyone,
I wrote a while back looking for advice, as I replaced my right side crankcase gasket and the screw in the 10 o'clock position appeared to be stripped, as well as two of the oil filter cover plate bolts, which had always been that way from when I bought the bike. Well, as suggested, I replaced one of the cover bolts with a homemade stud (thanks for the suggestion ER70S-2, and retapped another one to an m8x1.25 thread from m6x1.0. These work no problem now, but when I was going to tighten the one o'clock position oil filter cover bolt (the last one after torquing all the other CC cover screws properly) it seemed to twist around and then promptly snapped
I HATE breaking bolts and grudgingly removed all the sweetly torqued bolts (5.1 ft/lbs) and managed to remove the rest of the screw.
So, my question is, has anybody had a similar experience, and what have they done. My thoughts are the following:
-replace every bolt with a piece of high strength threaded rod that acts as a stud and use nuts to attach the CC cover
-get some new bolts that are about a mm shorter than the ones they are replacing. I honestly feel that the only way a bolt will break is if is bottoming out, but why would this be happening? I measured some of the hole depths vs. bolt thread length and it looked like there was a 3-4 mm gap at the bottom to avoid this.

I'm stymied, and the bike needs to be fixed by Friday.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:28 PM   #7074
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
So, my question is, has anybody had a similar experience, and what have they done. My thoughts are the following:
-replace every bolt with a piece of high strength threaded rod that acts as a stud and use nuts to attach the CC cover
-get some new bolts that are about a mm shorter than the ones they are replacing. I honestly feel that the only way a bolt will break is if is bottoming out, but why would this be happening? I measured some of the hole depths vs. bolt thread length and it looked like there was a 3-4 mm gap at the bottom to avoid this.

I'm stymied, and the bike needs to be fixed by Friday.
There are 4 bolts in the DR head, they're different lengths. The manual is very specific about which bolt length goes in which hole. The only problem is: the manual is wrong. So the less experienced guys put them where told and torque 'em. The short ones in the deep hole, pull the threads out. The long ones in the short hole, bottom out and the head (cam cover?) won't pull up tight. A little bit of force to tighten it and the bolt shears. The DR650 has several different length bolts holding the clutch cover on, you better get them in the hole they came out of.

Here's how we locate the right bolt in the right hole: Also note, the one at 1:00 o'clock has a rubber washer, pay attention.


Anytime you're putting bolts in a cover (or anywhere), they should have the same distance above the surface, 1/2" maybe. It will look and feel like this: Listen to yer pinkies.


If you get it wrong, you'll feel this and if yer payin' attention, you'll get the message and put the bolts in the right hole.


Uh-oh, bedtime, no more details.
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 06-14-2012 at 01:45 PM Reason: you're, not your
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:41 AM   #7075
viverrid
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Originally Posted by nuggets View Post
I made a rack for my XT.





Built using a cheap-o buzz box stick welder, angle grinder, and 2"x1/8" bar stock.
With just the flat bar stock, I'd be concerned with lateral buckling. Much load at the end and the cantilever beam can try to "get away from" the load by shifting to the side. The flat bar on edge has little lateral resistance. A diagonal brace would help. Could be wire if it was an X-brace. But a cute project anyway.

BTW, with the water beads on it, funny how the top of the plastic tail light bracket looks so much like the metal rack material.
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:52 AM   #7076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
...What looks like a longer bolt, is actually a stud with a nut.
That could also describe some couples...
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:40 AM   #7077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
Which part of the VA mountains, north or south? I'm in Northwestern NC, about 45 minutes from Damascus, VA. I'd like to try crossing a creek like that, especially knowing somebody made it across before me.

I'm met a few rivers that just don't like letting bikers across!
In the George Washington National Forest around here: http://goo.gl/maps/bNts

Quote:
Originally Posted by DAAANG View Post
Video still uploading to youtube. Heres a few screen shots to hold you over!!! No posers in this group.











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Old 06-14-2012, 04:49 AM   #7078
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Originally Posted by viverrid View Post
With just the flat bar stock, I'd be concerned with lateral buckling. Much load at the end and the cantilever beam can try to "get away from" the load by shifting to the side. The flat bar on edge has little lateral resistance. A diagonal brace would help. Could be wire if it was an X-brace. But a cute project anyway.
I thought about that too, and had planned to add some gussetting, but when I got it welded together, it easily held all 165lbs of me without flexing (even with all of my weight on the very back portion), so it should be good for 20-30lbs of stuff. It did hold up pretty nicely to 5 days of heavily loaded off road thrashing.

Also I think it might be nice if the rack bends during a crash. I do not want the rack so strong that it bends the subframe instead of giving way.

I assume you are trying to be nice and helpful, so thanks for taking the time to post
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:29 AM   #7079
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Originally Posted by nuggets View Post
In the George Washington National Forest around here: http://goo.gl/maps/bNts

Looks like a lot of good riding. I was hoping it was a bit closer to me, but VA has a lot of mountains. I'm looking forward to seeing the videos. You guys had the perfect size group.

What's the zip-tie deal with the tire? Looks like a "mounting trick" or something.
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:19 AM   #7080
GlennR
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ER70,
Good explaination about the bolts. It's hard to believe that they can be so complicated.

Woofer,
I wonder why your bolts keep breaking and or stripping so easily? Cover bolts shouldn't need to be especially strong, especially considering that they're going into aluminum. I wonder if your torque wrench is faulty, or if your bolts have been previously abused, or something.

It's good to know that you can easily retap the sttripped holes to 8x1.25 threads from the 6x1.0 I thought you probably could, but wasn't sure.
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