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Old 06-18-2012, 12:22 AM   #1
TheMuffinMan OP
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Muffin's Wanderlust of 2012

I leave in 19 days for five or six weeks. Holy ass! Just a few months ago, this summer and my plans seemed quintessentially out of reach. Every summer I've wanted to go on a long bike trip, and every summer I never get more than a week off at a time.

Not this time! I'm quitting my job (haha, suckers! ) and departing Denver for roads West on Saturday July 7th, 2012. I will meet a few uncles in Seattle for a ride down the pacific coast highway to San Francisco and then we will work our way back up to Seattle via an inland route. From there I will break off and head north into Canada and then meander down through Idaho and Montana and eventually meet up in Silverton, CO for RMAR 2012. After RMAR I will camp, and enjoy the Colorado high country for a week or two™ until I return to Denver before the 3rd week of August upon which I will begin my long arduous journey to get accepted into Graduate School at CU Boulder to obtain a Masters and eventually a Phd in Cognitive Neuroscience.

A very rough sketch of my route:


I am 26 years old with a little money stashed away and wanderlust in my heart. It will be an epic adventure!
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:26 PM   #2
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I'm jealous...

When I grow up, I wanna do things like that too. Way to make it happen!
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:14 PM   #3
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Very Jealous..the ride thru BC and Alberta will be epic. I'm from Alberta and have ridden most of were your route is located. BC has now some new Motorcycle laws which if your a responsible biker will not apply. IE: DOT helmets a must and do be carefull in the transition from highway to town or village speed as 40km over the posted limit could mean impounding of bike. Lots of wildlife which is the norm for most western North America. Lots of hotsprings in the BC area to check out. Nothing like HOT water soak after long day in saddle. Ride safe.
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:34 PM   #4
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The trip looks great,

Safe Travels
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Old 06-27-2012, 11:35 PM   #5
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Ahhhhhhhh! I leave in 9 days!! Disbelief is on my mind as the days count down to departure. The list of things to do seems be inversely proportional to the time I have left until departure, what's up with that ?? Getting a chunk of prep done over the last couple days has been a boost to the spirits though.

New tires have been ordered (Shinko 700 front, and a Mefo Super Explorer rear).
Swapped a good LCD into a free but broken Netbook that work was going to throw away. Updates will be possible during the trip!
Travel power adapters for the netbook, and the camera battery charger came in.
A new pair of moto gloves to replace my worn ones came in.
New Camera has been tested (Lumix DMC-TS4)
New housing for my GoPro procured (old one broke last weekend )

So the front end of my bike has been feeling really sketchy lately. I had the suspension tuned and replaced the steering head bearings last winter and at first it looked like the forks were borked because the inner fork tubes seemed to have 360° play in the horizontal plane. Made dirt and high speed turns on the street feel very unstable. Naturally I wait until 2 weeks before my trip to really dig into the problem so the bike currently looks like:

It's not missing anything important is it?


Good news: forks are fine
Bad news: head bearings are screwed up and I only have myself to thank for that.

Got some new bearings from a local shop and if I'm lucky it'll be a seal I mis-installed on the top bearing/stem cover area last winter. If that doesn't fix it then I used the wrong bottom bearing seal (they come in 4 different thicknesses) last winter and I'll be replacing all bearings and cups. Ah well!

Then the bike needs an oil change, put a new clutch slave cylinder on, remove the rear rotopax mount, solder new points onto the spare fuel pump, clean the prefilter, put a new main air filter in, I'm also going to be replacing the balance shaft seal which hopefully goes smoothly and cures my oil consumption issue (the front carb throat is oilly which points to the balance shaft seal), and I'm debating on a valve check before the trip but we'll see.

Random stuff that came in for the trip:


Site of the netbook LCD screen swap (forgot to take pictures during, d'oh! )


I'm curious how long it'll take me to train myself to take pictures so I don't miss things like the LCD screen swap. Knowing me I'll finally get it down a week before the trip ends.
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:43 AM   #6
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Old 07-06-2012, 10:13 PM   #7
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Packing sucks.
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Old 07-10-2012, 05:29 PM   #8
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Day 1:
---------
I awoke in a rush glanced at the clock, 8am crap!! My mind started mentally going through the list of things that still needed completion before my departure and then groaned; it was a big list. Packing wasn't complete, one side of the bike was still not on the bike, and my rooms in the house looked like a battlefield, after the battle...


I toyed with putting off departure one more day but quickly decided against that, I wanted to get this show on the road. Thus began a flurry of activity, put the left fairing and gas tank on the bike, cleaned up the mess of tools from the day before, installed the mounts for my new Wolfman Rainier tank bag cursing that I didn't f*#&#@ing put it on BEFORE I installed the damn fairings.


The rest of the packing/cleaning/”ahhhhhhhhhh I'm actually leaving” marathon was fairly uneventful though there was a feeling of being rushed which was frustrating since I had absolutely no place to be until Thursday when I will meet my Uncle in Cody, WY.


After what seems like eons I'm FINALLY ready to roll, at 2:00pm......


Clean House!



What I'll live off of for the next 35 days :





After some errands I finally catch 285 south out of Denver when the clouds begin looking ominous and I suit up in my hot, sweaty rain gear.





Right after I leave the Conifer parking lot I get a call from my Dad which I take over my bluetooth headset while I'm riding. He's driving back to Michigan from Phoenix, is coming up through Moab, and wants to meet up, awesome! We make plans to meet in Grand Junction which is a bit farther then I wanted to go that day but I don't see him enough so the extra distance will be worth it.


I mentally begin planning my route, “285 to Independence pass to the nice curvy road one thirty-something that I rode my Guzzi on years ago? Hrm....”. A sudden thwack and corresponding sting breaks my concentration just as the clouds unleash a torrential downpour. The raindrops were large and stung through my rain and riding jackets. There rain only lasted about 20 miles but it was not the last I saw of it that day by any means.







My route ultimately turned out to be 285 to 50 to Montrose up into Grand Junction. Not the most exciting route, but I didn't want to risk Independence Pass with questionable weather/thunderstorms. As an added bonus I saw my friend Adventure girl on Highway 50 just east of Gunnison. She was going east and I, west though we didn't stop which I later regretted not turning around and chasing her down to say hello. Ah well.


I pulled into the Hampton Inn in Grand Junction about 45 minutes before my Dad showed up. Naturally I forgot to take pictures of me arriving, him arriving. We have a pizza delivered to the room, catch up and then fall fast asleep.






Day 2:
---------


We wake up late, 10am but are fairly rested. We proceed to load up and leave, trying to find a breakfast place. I sweat in the 35mph town speed limits and the clear skies which offer no relief from the blazing sun. Surprisingly the only cafe we found was closed on Sunday and the other one had closed for good some time ago. We pull into some Italian grill around 11 and change, find out they only do Lunch but what the heck it's food so we sit down. Holy crap it's pricey, though the bread and fried-garlic infused olive oil they brought out was quite tasty. I had some pasta and chicken dish which was tasty but a bit heavy this early in the day, and in the heat that was waiting for me. Again I forgot to take pictures, though I was more focused on him knowing this limited time may be the last time I see him for a while.





After the leisurely lunch we part ways and I head west on 70 to 131 out of Frutia. There isn't much out here which is nice though a bit unnerving. The views are nice though there are darkish clouds over the mountain range up ahead .





I pull over about 25 minutes after that picture and put the cell phone in the tank bag and put the rain cover over said bag. I really didn't want to feel all sweaty again so I decided against rain gear and rode into a storm that turned the road into a puddle. I was hydroplaning all over the place and slowed down in the interest of keeping the rubber side down. Rain is also very cold, which felt pretty good after it stopped and there was a nice evaporative cooling effect going for the next hour or so.


Looking back the way I came, after the rain.



Before long the heat was back and while it wasn't oppressive at 65mph, it was hotter then I like to be. The good news was the skies were clear above me and to the west which quashed my flash flooding concerns for a campsite/pullout in a canyon I drove through earlier this year on Geek's Dinosaur 2012 ride.



Camp!






Part of me ponders this trip and how I've never had more than a week off before. Being alone, away from everything has me self-reflecting on what I want to do, about school and my soon to be chosen area of study (cognitive neuroscience) I find it interesting, heck yeah! But is it what I dream about during the day? No. So, my pondering of the day is do I chase my dreams, or merge dreams and practicality? Choices, choices....
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The old that is strong does not wither,
Deep roots are not reached by the frost."
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Old 07-10-2012, 05:48 PM   #9
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Day 3


Sleep was hard to come by, my first night out in the wilderness. The campsite was noisy and naturally I found the two largest lumps (buried rocks?) in the sandy campsite to put my tent on. I quite liked watching the sun work it's way into the canyon in the morning but having to listen to the creek all night kept me awake.


Woke up later then I liked and between breakfast, filtering a few liters of water, and waffling around camp I finally rolled out around 10:30. One thing I did find out was my darn powerlet cigarette socket to USB adapter was dead leaving me with a dead cell phone. .





Worked my way up into Browns Park and over the swinging bridge.



Took a left to go west to Route 191 in Utah, this was a magnificent dirt road. Little traffic.



Went through Flaming Gorge, and over the dam. This was coming down the far (western) side of the gorge.



Ate lunch and gassed up in Manila, UT; food was tasty, and affordable:



Backtracked a bit and went through Sheep Creek Canyon Geologic area, it was fantastic! Great views and the road was all crumbly and forgotten.

















There was a short section in the middle that had been recently blacktopped much to my dismay. I liked the old, crumbly road.



Decided to take the “scenic” back country route to Salt Lake City. It started out as forest service road 221 and boy, the theme for the rest of the day was a mix of my subpar map following skills, Butler Motorcycle Map's slight inaccuracy when it came to FS road numbers, and the forest service's absolutely horrendous road signs/designations.





FS Road 58 == FS Road 86 on the Butler maps . Getting lost was kind of nice though, I thought I was going the wrong way and was just going with it. The only place I didn't want to end up was in the flat plains of Wyoming. These kinds of roads are exactly why I got my 950!






After finding a road designation for FS Road 82 finally I blasted down and ended up at the Wyoming boarder, wtf? Thus began a 90 minute search for the correct road. I probably went up and down FS 82 three times before, naturally the last road fork option I check is the correct road. I tied my GPS app, Dualsportmaps for android that I bought for $20 but it turned out to be fairly useless, not intuitive at all, and there was no readme or instructions beyond some not very helpful videos online. Save your money nd buy a real GPS is my advice. Moving on....


The rest of the route was ultra wide gravel roads until I found an ATV offshoot which lead to my campsite. Not the best site for a tent but I managed to find a flatspot.



Sadly with all the getting lost today I didn't make near Salt Lake City. I wanted to camp near the trailhead for the Pfifferhorn and hike up (4.5 miles to the summit, 3500' elevation gain)in the morning since that would probably be a 7 to 8 hour hike. I attempted it last summer with my aunt, uncle, and their friend but the trail was buried under the snows of last winter that still hadn't melted. After hiking directly on the snow drifts I had to turn back about 300 vertical feet from the top since I doubted the melting snow's ability to hold my weight (we had no idea where the trail was). I wanted to conquer it this summer but alas, with me needing to be in Cody, WY on Thursday and wanting to go see the Tetons it will not happen. Oh well.
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Not all those who wander are lost;
The old that is strong does not wither,
Deep roots are not reached by the frost."
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Old 07-12-2012, 05:52 PM   #10
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Have a great time on your adventure!
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:08 PM   #11
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Day 4
--------


The day started off well, broke camp and was rolling by 10am reinforcing my suspicion that I am indeed not a morning person .


Continued down the forest service road anticipating the nice mountain roads and a relaxing day. Yeah, that didn't happen. The first sign of trouble was a fork in the road; I followed the correct road which began degrading quickly. Then I hit a section they were obviously in the middle of resurfacing and I got to test out my sand/loose dirt riding skills which I almost dropped it in a section of 8-10” deep loose dirt. I figured as long as this didn't last for more then a few miles I'd be ok. However a few miles after passing one grading machine the loose dirt turned to mud. Not wanting to even attempt that (and not seeing an end in sight to the mud) I turned around. That meant I was headed into the plains of Wyoming, sigh.





On the plus side I've become quite adept at riding on dirt roads with ball-bearing sized pebbles that are about 1” deep. Doesn't mean I enjoy it though .





I decided to avoid I-80 and found a dirt route into Hilliard, which is along route 150 which I originally was going to pop out on and head south into the Wasatch mountains. Alas there was no gas in Hilliard (and I had 30 miles on reserve when I rolled in) so I ran into Evanston and somehow didn't run out of gas.








Who knew that dirt roads at 50mph get some of the best fuel economy I've seen. I had easily a half-gallon to spare when I filled up. Heading into the mountains I was rained on and I was actually pretty damn cold making me want some warmer weather and sun. Foolish me I should've stayed up in the mountains.





Over the last couple days I was noticing my coolant overflow bottle was empty. This had me quite worried and I never could find a place that sells antifreeze in quart bottles. Horror scenarios ranging from a blown water pump seal to a bad head gasket creep through my mind like a virus. Of course it could just be that I lost more coolant then expected when I swapped radiator temp sensors before the trip, but I refilled it after swapping the sensors.....




I break down and buy a gallon of coolant at an Autozone after descending into the hellish inferno of Ogden, Utah. It's hot and I am miserable. After putzing and roasting in Ogden I take shelter in a McDonalds to get some ride reports posted and some cold fluid in me. Note to self: trim and resize the pictures before hand because McDonalds wifi is really, really slow! Took me a little under two hours to upload all the pictures.


The day was cooling down when I headed west up into the mountains East of Eden, UT. I made one more stop at a gas station to top off my coolant overflow bottle and continue on. It was nice to see there was a small sliver of coolant visible in the tank after filling it completely. I found a nice camp site but the heat, and worry about the bike's disappearing coolant put a negative mask over the day. However when I parked the bike it went from no coolant to overflowing. I probably just have an air bubble in the loop.





Anyway, tomorrow I head north and hopefully won't have to deal with horrible heat.


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Not all those who wander are lost;
The old that is strong does not wither,
Deep roots are not reached by the frost."
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:12 PM   #12
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Day 5
--------


It was a quiet day; a day of mileage, and much-needed cooler weather. Much to my dismay I wasn't able to check the oil filter to check for water-pump seal failure due to a swarm of flies that assaulted me as I packed up camp. It was the weirdest thing; and I don't THINK I smell that bad...

The bike ran much, much better today probably due to the cooler temperatures; though there is most definitely an air bubble in the cooling loop but I'll get to that later.

I headed east down the mountain that I camped on which was a nice, twisty, road. From there I picked up route 89 which took me all the way into Jackson, Wyoming. Rainclouds toyed with me on the way up but it ultimately only sprinkled a few times. The clouds were consistent until I reached the Tetons where the sun broke through and made for good viewing.


Lunch!



Snake River



I quite enjoy the Tetons, very jagged and raw. They make the mountains in Colorado feel like rounded hills.











Having paid the $20 for a park pass I now had the option of camping in Yellowstone which was enticing. I ultimately decided that the park would be crowded and took 289 south east to Dubois. Apparently there is massive construction on 289 where they've torn the whole road down to the road bed which would've been tons of fun on the 950 if it wasn't for the pilot car and the dang mini-van ahead of me that was pulling a huge popup camper. It was not enjoying the dirt, gravel, and bumps nearly as much as I was . One of the construction worker's trucks had a dirtbike in the back, probably to play around the construction site after they were done working for the day. That, would be fun.


Made it into Dubois, alas upon closer review I didn't see any spots along my route over Blondie Pass that had camping as it was not on national forest land. I stopped at the Super 8 outside of town since they were advertising wifi and breakfast. The “bikers” rate of $89 for a night made me chuckle and I decided to backtrack 20 miles to the national forest and find a spot, which is completely free . I do miss showers though.





The warning signs about bears, and no camp fires are everywhere. No camp fires makes me sad, they are a part of camping; I doubt I'll be able to have camp fires until I'm up into Canada if at all. Bears however are scary and I'm trying to take all precautions so I don't get rudely awakened in the middle of the night.
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The old that is strong does not wither,
Deep roots are not reached by the frost."
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:51 AM   #13
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Day 6
--------


Today was good. It began early waking up to an alarm was relatively unwelcome, but it did get me up and going. Sleep wasn't the problem, it was going from the warm toasty sleeping bag to the very frigid outside world. I was rolling by 7:30 and on my way to Blondie pass; a tiny squiggle on the map that was the only “shortcut” between my campsite and Cody, WY.


The ride down to the turnoff was uneventful and dull. However once I started down the side road to Blondie Pass I knew it would be a good ride. The road was a minefield of potholes that could easily taco a wheel, or worse. A barely visible if-at-all centerline was merely a suggestion and I found myself weaving from one side to the other dodging potholes at 65 mph, naturally .








The further I went the more nature was trying to reclaim the road. Grass and at times shrubs were poking up through the middle of the aged asphalt. Amusingly enough if the potholes were avoided it was one of the smoothest roads I've traveled on.





The fun decrepit, lonely road lasted for 25 miles before the dirt section began and I was thrust into an enjoyable and semi-technical ascent. The only technical aspect was a few nasty ruts and the cow herds scattered across the switchbacks. Coming down the north side was mostly dirt with a few sections of ruts, and mud. Awesome views though, and I didn't see anyone else for the hour or so it took to traverse.























After I got down from Blondie Pass I fired up the GPS and started following the “fastest” route to Cody where I would meet my Uncle Mark from Nashville. Oddly enough it had me go through an oil field which has some warning about poison gas when I entered it. I didn't really stop to read the sign..... . Man did it smell bad! I got some directions from field workers and continued on my way but it took half the day to get that nauseating smell out of my nose.


Made it to Cody and had lunch with my Uncle and some of his neighbors from Nashville who happened to be in Cody at the same time, small world eh?!





The day was heating up and my Uncle and I departed for the Chief Joseph Highway and Beartooth Pass. These were excellent roads though Chief Joseph was horribly tar-snaked which made us take the switchbacks quite slowly. Beartooth pass reminded me of Trail Ridge Road (for all you Coloradans out there) but without the stupid $10 fee.











Those two roads took much longer than I expected but they were nice and got us out of the heat for awhile. We booked it up to I-90 which we took west in the interest of time. We were both sore and tired but managed to get to Bozeman, MT where a motel was procured as I was in desperate need of a shower. Some errands, repacking, and dealing with hotel internet (took 4 hours to upload the last three days' pictures, gah!) and it's definitely time for bed. How different this will be after four nights out in the bush!


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Not all those who wander are lost;
The old that is strong does not wither,
Deep roots are not reached by the frost."
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:23 PM   #14
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"Great views and the road was all crumbly and forgotten"

This right here says it all. Great ride report Graham!! What an adventure! i am jelous
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:47 PM   #15
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Day 7
--------

The day began with a 200 mile sprint into Missoula Montana where we would pickup US 12 across Idaho and then camp east of Dayton, WA in the national forest. The sprint to Missoula on I-90 was expedient, though fairly boring. The weather had at least cooled off from the intense heat of the previous days which made for a fairly enjoyable ride.

After gassing up in Missoula we went over Lolo Pass on US-12 which then follows the Clearwater River downstream/hill for about 75 miles. This was a very nice road that has a sign right after cresting Lolo pass that says “Winding Roads next 90 miles” unfortunately I didn't get a picture. Traveling with someone else it was harder to stop for pictures... The windy road was awesome, the speed limit was only 50 which was a little slow but the curves were fun at 55 to 60.

Just after cresting Lolo Pass:


After 65 miles of curves we pull over in the first sign of civilization to get some drinks and snacks. They even have a phone booth with a working phone, how neat!



Looking back the way we came from the tiny one-pump gas station:


After a few more miles we get gas in Lewiston, ID and by that time we are pretty worn out and I'm looking forward to getting to a campsite in the next 30 minutes or so. This would leave about a 6 hour drive for tomorrow. My uncle then decided he didn't want to drive that far tomorrow and wants to go further tonight. Normally I'd be fine with that but there's no national forrest or campgrounds on the map in the middle of the state. After some debate we decide to work our way up to I-90 and find a campsite along the way.





We ended up riding into the dark and finding a motel along I-90. I was tired, and sore after 13 hours in the saddle.
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The old that is strong does not wither,
Deep roots are not reached by the frost."
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