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Old 06-17-2012, 09:10 PM   #5281
scrambler66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gforcephuket View Post
The master brake cylinder I have on there now is pretty good, especially with the braided lines and good pads, but I'd like to put on something even stronger -- can anyone recommend something that would work. I asked the guys at one shop if an XR 250 mbc would go on there but they weren't sure and said they'd actually have to get one and try it. Any advice about this would be appreciated.
The NX250 cylinder (and the XL350/600/NX650 and some XR600/650 models) got 11mm diameter (see below). The Xr250 master cylinder has 1/2 inch (12,7mm). At least the one I got. So if you take a xr master cylinder, pulling the brake lever will be harder in order to get the same brake power, but it will not improve it. Something that may work is an oversize kit from EBC. Since NX250 And XR600 share the same brake calipers, you can take a XR600 280mm brake disc http://www.jcmotors.com/p-29365-ebc-...x#.T96uooE-2Vk





Thats an example for an 1/2 inch master cylinder (Xl250 degree)


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Old 06-18-2012, 01:57 AM   #5282
Jacl-Kampuchea
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I replaced mine with a new xr250 master cylinder not too long ago as the old one was shot. Works fine and I can still lock up the front wheel at will ( not that I want to be doing so too often! ).
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:40 PM   #5283
SaDoW
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About supertrapp

If you decide to put it on it is important to know how many disks are inside
Is it more “free” (with fewer disks) or not? And then you must re-tune the carb accordingly

And if necessary re - jet of course you must know what supertrapp you will put on
Quiet core?
Race Core
Quiet Race Core

And adjust accordingly ONLY THEN you will understand the difference not only in the sound but in acceleration and top speed...

Be aware IF someone will use the race core supertrapp the mixture if using 38 -145 and 1.5 turns is VERY POOR on gasoline the bike goes like hell in acceleration but… not very much gasoline

The start of the sweet point is between 2.5 and 3 turns & 1/4 of a turn

But re tune the carb is a pain in the @s$ believe me I know....
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:36 PM   #5284
fikse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gforcephuket View Post
Thanks for your nice comments fikse and plz do excuse my late reply, been pretty wrapped up with work and other things so not spending much time online recreationally.

Regarding a couple of your questions below I must first say that I'm hopelessly inept mechanically, insofar as skills and knowledge. While I've been riding for over 30 years it's just a fact of my life I can't change. I know when a bike is working properly or not and can certainly point mechanics in the right direction but that's about where it ends. So I get everything done at local shops here in Thailand. The upside is that it's really really cheap to get stuff done here; the downside is that most local mechanics speak very little or no English and my Thai is lame, so more than half the time I don't know exactly what they do to my bikes or how they do it -- I just can know if something is right or wrong after a few minutes of riding the bike. I know that sounds a bit iffy but it's been working for 12 years I've been here, knock on wood.

So I'm sorry that I can't tell you exactly how they got in the DZR shock but it's in there and works fine, much stronger than the stock, though yes it's A LOT higher (but I have a 36-inch inseam, so no problem) and not sure how much compared to the SV650's (though yes, I'm sure it's softer given the DZR's off-road inclination.

Because the seat height was much higher and was forcing me forward toward the tank too much, I had to have the seat re-done (which I had already made quite higher than stock). So for just $10 I had the seat completely re-scultped recently (into a nice 2 level jobby) and it's just about perfect, but I have to take take it back and have him add a bit more height as he took off too much (making it about normal AX-1 height, which is too short for my long legs). I'll take a pic after I get the seat re-done again soon.

Regarding brake lines, I forgot to mention in my mod list that my master brake cylinder is also not stock, (frankly I'm not sure what bike it's from, a case as per above of little communication with my mechanics, but it works . But yes you are correct, it's a straight line from the reservoir down to the brake.

The master brake cylinder I have on there now is pretty good, especially with the braided lines and good pads, but I'd like to put on something even stronger -- can anyone recommend something that would work. I asked the guys at one shop if an XR 250 mbc would go on there but they weren't sure and said they'd actually have to get one and try it. Any advice about this would be appreciated.

I'm quite sure the Supertrapp isn't specifically designed for the NX/AX-1, in fact I'm personally not aware of any aftermarket exhaust specifically for these models, though there could be. I'm not sure what bike this Supertrapp was originally designed for, perhaps an XR?? It works good and sounds great but I can't really say for sure I'd recommend it. Frankly since I've had that on, the bikes peformance (I ride it hard like all my bikes) has not been as consistent compared to the stock, though I'm not sure if that's related to the Supertrapp or to not just having the carb properly tuned (which mechanics aren't super great at here compared to back home).

Thx for the advice about the KTM made in India! I've been thinking a bit about getting a new 690, but I'm pretty sure the KTM we'd get in Thailand here would be made in India....And you're right, overall you just can't be Honda quality, I love my little gixxer and Ninja 650 too but at heart I'm a Honda guy.

Good luck with the NX re-build -- it'll be worth it! Again I'm not Mr. Mechanical but anything general or not too complex I'll be glad to help if I can.
gforcephuket, thanks for answer :-)

Since last time I've got time for riding a little. Nice weather and a nice bike. Perfect combo ;-) Ill guess youre quite happy with the weather where you are (well, except for the rainy times, of course), but here now its summer, and Im happy its dry roads and I only need one layer of wool under my leather suit, not to freeze ;-)
Ive been thinking a bit, and mostly certain I will not go for anything but "the best", a complete set of suspension, suited my wheight, from Hyperpro. Its quite some money, but I have a damaged backbone, and in need for a relative comfy ride. A bikerfriend of mine told me he had "converted" to this Hyperpro on his rather new BMW-bike, and he describes the suspension now as a Citroen - driving in the skies. That sounds interesting to me!

It must be lovely to have the possibilty to get crafts for that low price :-) Here in Norway its in the complete opposite side of scale. One hour at a bike-garage now is approx 1.000,- NOK, or $170!!! And I know a few garages here where they talk "bibblish", almost as Thai is for you ;-) Like when I told my KTM-garage; this and this (and this and this) electric things will not work properly in freezing temps. I offered them a video, who showed the trouble. "No-no, we do not need (to use the extra 2 minutes) to watch the video, we perfectly understand the problem. We will have a look, and discuss with central KTM". My fool, I trusted them. When retreiving the bike, they said "couldnt find any fault, are you sure its true?". This after 10 days at the garage. I asked them if they had testet by putting the bike outside in the winter-weather. "Why should we do that.. We have tested it in the garage, no faults now". Dooh.......!

AFAIK it is only the miniDuke (125-200cc) thats made in India. The other KTM-s I belive still are made in Austria, with its european quality. Ive been working a little on a Austrian made KTM, and I liked the quality and solidity. Not equal as Honda, someplaces better and someplaces not as good. But generally good. And they generally have very nice components as brake-suspension-etc! So please do not let my story scare you from looking at the 690.

:-)
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:43 PM   #5285
fikse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrambler66 View Post
The NX250 cylinder (and the XL350/600/NX650 and some XR600/650 models) got 11mm diameter (see below). The Xr250 master cylinder has 1/2 inch (12,7mm). At least the one I got. So if you take a xr master cylinder, pulling the brake lever will be harder in order to get the same brake power, but it will not improve it. Something that may work is an oversize kit from EBC. Since NX250 And XR600 share the same brake calipers, you can take a XR600 280mm brake disc http://www.jcmotors.com/p-29365-ebc-...x#.T96uooE-2Vk





Thats an example for an 1/2 inch master cylinder (Xl250 degree)

Once again, thanks alot for your thorough description Scrambler66

Ive just had a thorough service on my stock brake: new sealings and fluid, sintered pads from EBC. Still dont like what I get. Im used to quite some sharper stuff. Within this summer Ill hope the oversized one will sit on my bike
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fikse screwed with this post 06-19-2012 at 11:32 PM
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:05 PM   #5286
SaDoW
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Remonal of cam chain

Do i have to remove the Oil pump to remove the cam chain ?

clutch is removed

the nut that hold the cam chain removed

but it seems i can't remove the cam chain unless i remove the Oil Pump under it

is this the case ?



or is something else and i am close to make a terrible mistake ???


thank you
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:06 PM   #5287
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Shadow, stop. Go to cmsnl.com
type in your bike and look at the parts fiches. This way you know what your working with.
the cam chain either has a masterlink or it needs to be broken apart if no masterlink. Are you changing the chain? Please do some study first.
Also try dansmc.com to learn about this stuff. Good luck my friend.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:39 PM   #5288
tntmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTC View Post
Shadow, stop. Go to cmsnl.com
type in your bike and look at the parts fiches. This way you know what your working with.
the cam chain either has a masterlink or it needs to be broken apart if no masterlink. Are you changing the chain? Please do some study first.
Also try dansmc.com to learn about this stuff. Good luck my friend.

Wrong. You do not break the cam chain and there is not masterlink.

Remove the right side cover, remove the clutch, remove the locknut and gear off the crankshaft. You also do need to remove the oil pump.

I just did this today. Then I split the cases and removed the crankshaft. Very easy engine to work on.
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:12 PM   #5289
SaDoW
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ok so i do rermove the oil pump ok thank u also

there is a gasket behind the oil pump i must change that also i believe?
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:44 AM   #5290
PTC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
Wrong. You do not break the cam chain and there is not masterlink.

Remove the right side cover, remove the clutch, remove the locknut and gear off the crankshaft. You also do need to remove the oil pump.

I just did this today. Then I split the cases and removed the crankshaft. Very easy engine to work on.
SORRY... shoulda looked before i spoke. stupid whiskey. carry on...
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:40 AM   #5291
fikse
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Quote:
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SORRY... shoulda looked before i spoke. stupid whiskey. carry on...
Try single malt next time. Ive heard its more "correct"
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:42 AM   #5292
muddyrabbit
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I am back for more advice on mods to our friend CrazyJill's NX250.

You may find this quite shocking, but the original rear shock is shot. So we are swapping in a GSXR shock this weekend. Looks simple enough. Next up, since she is kinda tall, we (she) are thinking about the XR250 front fork & wheel swap (followed by a 17" rear wheel). I saw the post where someone swapped the triple clamps & steering stem with the forks, but looking at them only being 1mm larger diameter I am thinking about just boring our the clamps to accommodate the forks. Any thoughts?
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:42 AM   #5293
tntmo
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ok so i do rermove the oil pump ok thank u also

there is a gasket behind the oil pump i must change that also i believe?
Yes, a paper gasket behind it and some o-rings that I would also recommend changing while you are in there.

Are you changing your cam chain tensioner also? I think mine failed, the chain was still acceptably tight (in my opinion) and it slipped on the crankshaft, stripping out the crank gear and bending both exhaust valves. Now I get to swap cranks and rebuild the head. Fun!!!
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:34 PM   #5294
SaDoW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
Yes, a paper gasket behind it and some o-rings that I would also recommend changing while you are in there.

Are you changing your cam chain tensioner also? I think mine failed, the chain was still acceptably tight (in my opinion) and it slipped on the crankshaft, stripping out the crank gear and bending both exhaust valves. Now I get to swap cranks and rebuild the head. Fun!!!
yes i have already a new chain tensioner

to avoid the tensioner problem such as yours ( damn it man bad luck) i put a bolt with 2 nuts just touching the spring so if the tensioner spring
goes bad the bolt and the 2 nuts will stop it

You said paper gasket and o ring... damn.... dowe know numbers for the order? I mean the oem number
thanks
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:42 PM   #5295
RollingJ
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I have a 91 xr250l I am parting.

I'll let go the 21" wheel and the entire front end (forks, triples, spacers, axle, brakes (rotor is warped and master and slave need rebuilds) for $175 +shipping.

That front wheel alone is $75 +shipping and will swap right into my NX (I have raised the fender and modded the fork brace).

Adding a 17" rear and a 21" front brings the ground clearance up and balances the bike nicely.
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