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Old 06-28-2012, 09:29 PM   #1
kawzak OP
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New ural carb Sync

I am going to check/do a carb syncronization tomorrow. I have an old mecury 4-collum stick It's been about 15 yrs since I used it last. I can't wait for the manual I ordered-must trod ahead !. Do I equalize with the throttle cables first-or the mixture/slow speed screw first? getting old sucks.
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:46 AM   #2
AeroEngineer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawzak View Post
I am going to check/do a carb syncronization tomorrow. I have an old mecury 4-collum stick It's been about 15 yrs since I used it last. I can't wait for the manual I ordered-must trod ahead !. Do I equalize with the throttle cables first-or the mixture/slow speed screw first? getting old sucks.
Your bike should have been set up properly from the dealer. They should also provide the 500km service and teach you how to sync the carbs, adjust the valves, etc.

Don't mess with what's not broken, you're just going to create headaches for yourself.

EDIT: I just saw another thread and it seems you've already started messing with valve clearance, ignition timing and alternator gear meshing. STOP!


Either your dealer was completely negligent in his setup, or you've got a terrible case of Shipfitters Disease. But either way I definitely think you should take it back and have them go through the maintenance with you. You should not be doing this on a bike with 100km on it.
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AeroEngineer screwed with this post 06-29-2012 at 09:53 AM
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroEngineer View Post
Your bike should have been set up properly from the dealer. They should also provide the 500km service and teach you how to sync the carbs, adjust the valves, etc.

Don't mess with what's not broken, you're just going to create headaches for yourself.

EDIT: I just saw another thread and it seems you've already started messing with valve clearance, ignition timing and alternator gear meshing. STOP!


Either your dealer was completely negligent in his setup, or you've got a terrible case of Shipfitters Disease. But either way I definitely think you should take it back and have them go through the maintenance with you. You should not be doing this on a bike with 100km on it.
Man I was going to say the same thing. I love to tinker to. But you haven't even warmed your bike up yet. Let alone put enough into it to warrant all of this messing. Just ride the piss out of it. Enjoy it and if it breaks fix it.. than ride some more.
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Old 06-29-2012, 12:41 PM   #4
davide
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Kawzak,
I read you 3 posts: listen to the advice you have been given... I sense that you are flirting with disaster!
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:47 PM   #5
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Yep,don't muck around with stuff just yet, these bikes go through a lot of settleing in early on and you will just chase yourself in circles. Ride it as much as possible, don't lug it, and get to the first oil change. The only thing most have needed to adjust is the idle screws, some bikes need the idle turned up a bit as they get miles on them but that is about it until that first service. If you are having the dealer do the service like the guys have said hang out and learn all about it. If you are like me and live 100's of miles away and are forced to service it yourself then the sticks will work fine if they are in good condition. Adjust the cable slack first and get both to pull at the same time by feel, then hook up the sticks & adjust the idle screws to get them balanced at idle after it's warmed up, open the throttle easily and also check if they both pull evenly together, they should be close if the cables are set right but if not adjust them a tiny bit at a time 'till they pull equally as possible. Before doing a carb sync though you should check the valves and adjust them first as it will affect the carbs. They will show/tell you all that stuff at the dealer but if not there are some great videos done by IMZ with the factory tech Sergey showing you how to do various maintenance procedures.
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:32 PM   #6
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bokad another one in the making ???????????????????????
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:11 PM   #7
kawzak OP
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resolved all issues

Look guys I was asking advice because the manual I ordered is still 3 days away-and I wanted get everything checked/corrected so my wife and I could to ride it this weekend some. I have worked/rebuilt motors for over 40 yrs- .I synced the carbs this evening. they were way off. I also set the timing right at the arrow w/dot. If I felt the dealer had done it right-or even checked, I would have left it alone. I want it right. the alternator thing was dumb om my behalf ( reminder-put bi-focals on) I didn't even notice the top front cover without my glasses. It runs great now. that old mercury stick still works good. I appreciate your concern. I spent the last 3 evening/nights going over every thing. If I had left it alone-it probably would have run hot with timing too low and carbs out of sync- bad. the dealer did a pencil PDI. I figured as much. It ran like a dog and they just figured it was that way. They sell high-end motorcycles that they uncrate, put oil in and sell. I bought this Patrol with about 35 kilometers on the clock-new, but it was 3-4 months old.I am sure after they sell the other unit they have-they won't buy anymore. I don't care.I will never take it back.I will maintain and I will fix myself as needed.Oh also, that is why I bought it $1000 below normal cost.
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:26 PM   #8
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To Bokad...

I like working on stuff. I have done so for a long time. My job is designing parts/equipment-sometimes one of a kind machine for a specific purpose. I have owned just about every brand of motorcycle (over 30 bikes)- most new. I knew going in that a Ural would need attention. It sounds to me like you want buy a type/brand you just put gas in and go- thats OK too.Look at it this way- It is like spending $ 1000 a new 1911 45 auto and expecting it to work 100%-just ain't so, you have to fix/correct/massage them to work right, but once you do you wouldn't trade it. If this sounds strange to you, -you haven't worked on enough stuff long enough to understand. Not my intention to hurt your feelings, just trying to explain how some of us are.
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Old 06-30-2012, 12:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawzak View Post
Look guys I was asking advice because the manual I ordered is still 3 days away-and I wanted get everything checked/corrected so my wife and I could to ride it this weekend some. I have worked/rebuilt motors for over 40 yrs- .I synced the carbs this evening. they were way off. I also set the timing right at the arrow w/dot. If I felt the dealer had done it right-or even checked, I would have left it alone. I want it right. the alternator thing was dumb om my behalf ( reminder-put bi-focals on) I didn't even notice the top front cover without my glasses. It runs great now. that old mercury stick still works good. I appreciate your concern. I spent the last 3 evening/nights going over every thing. If I had left it alone-it probably would have run hot with timing too low and carbs out of sync- bad. the dealer did a pencil PDI. I figured as much. It ran like a dog and they just figured it was that way. They sell high-end motorcycles that they uncrate, put oil in and sell. I bought this Patrol with about 35 kilometers on the clock-new, but it was 3-4 months old.I am sure after they sell the other unit they have-they won't buy anymore. I don't care.I will never take it back.I will maintain and I will fix myself as needed.Oh also, that is why I bought it $1000 below normal cost.

I don't think anyone was trying to bust your balls, its just every once in a while someone comes around here or at SS who is in way over their head and has ended up causing their own problem. The bike SHOULD have been running like a top when you bought it, but from what you've said it appears that wasn't the case.

I still maintain that the dealer should have never let the bike leave the shop like that, regardless of whether you got a good deal or not. As you've probably come to see, doing the PDI work isn't even that difficult. I wonder how many other people (with less mechanical aptitude) they may have screwed over if this is a common occurrence for them.
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:58 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawzak View Post
I like working on stuff. I have done so for a long time. My job is designing parts/equipment-sometimes one of a kind machine for a specific purpose. I have owned just about every brand of motorcycle (over 30 bikes)- most new. I knew going in that a Ural would need attention. It sounds to me like you want buy a type/brand you just put gas in and go- thats OK too.Look at it this way- It is like spending $ 1000 a new 1911 45 auto and expecting it to work 100%-just ain't so, you have to fix/correct/massage them to work right, but once you do you wouldn't trade it. If this sounds strange to you, -you haven't worked on enough stuff long enough to understand. Not my intention to hurt your feelings, just trying to explain how some of us are.
I love to tinker to. But these bikes are finkiy. I have owned 13 various motorcycles in the last seven years. This one is probably my favorite. and for the most part it is in fact a gas and go so long as you take care of it. But tearing it down before you even get to the first oil change is not what I personally would recommend. ALso if your dearer is a bust than find a good one. great thing about the warranty is you can drive it instead of dick it up and if it breaks take it to a good dealer to fix it. Once you actually get some miles on this thing it is going to run much better and than you can fine tune it... And whats this about a 1911 not working??? That just doesnt make any sense to me
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Old 06-30-2012, 04:00 PM   #11
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1911s can be finicky to ammo,magazines, springs, etc when new-or even after run-in. if your gonna carry to protect you life it has to be 100%. I have tuned many. I have 3 favorites that took some finess to acheive that no- malfunctions in 500w/HP rnds is pretty good indication it will be OK.That is why some (like Wilson's) cost upwards of $3 K. they already fixed them.Any thing around $800-1000 is either a project or a loose somewhat inacurrate piece.Ah but I digress. Urals are kinda like that in a sense.
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Old 07-01-2012, 02:25 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by kawzak View Post
1911s can be finicky to ammo,magazines, springs, etc when new-or even after run-in. if your gonna carry to protect you life it has to be 100%. I have tuned many. I have 3 favorites that took some finess to acheive that no- malfunctions in 500w/HP rnds is pretty good indication it will be OK.That is why some (like Wilson's) cost upwards of $3 K. they already fixed them.Any thing around $800-1000 is either a project or a loose somewhat inacurrate piece.Ah but I digress. Urals are kinda like that in a sense.
I gotcha. About the guns anyways. I still stand behind my Ural belief but that is me I suppose. I have to say honestly I would hate dropping 800-1000 on a pistol that needs help. My $500 Glock is a straight shot and always reliable. Good luck with your Ural.
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:16 PM   #13
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Thanks Ivel_86- i have to admit I do have a 9mm Kahr I bought new for $ 450 that is never stopped once in over <>1700 rnds. I just love my 1911s though. My new Ural is running better and better.
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawzak View Post
1911s can be finicky to ammo,magazines, springs, etc when new-or even after run-in. if your gonna carry to protect you life it has to be 100%. I have tuned many. I have 3 favorites that took some finess to acheive that no- malfunctions in 500w/HP rnds is pretty good indication it will be OK.That is why some (like Wilson's) cost upwards of $3 K. they already fixed them.Any thing around $800-1000 is either a project or a loose somewhat inacurrate piece.Ah but I digress. Urals are kinda like that in a sense.
The original 1911 is an extremely reliable platform when used with the ammunition it was designed for. It wasn't until people thought they knew more about firearms design than John Browning and started screwing with it that problems developed.
Now there is a whole industry devoted to trying to make it what it was before people couldn't leave it alone. Back in the day you could buy a very reliable 1911 or 1911A1 from DCM for about $17.00!

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Old 07-02-2012, 04:38 PM   #15
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You are correct. They will run 100% usually with ball ammo. Hollow points= whole new animal. Also those that run well right out of the box are usually about 3-4" @ 25 yd guns.
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