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07-03-2012, 09:07 AM
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#16 | |
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Legal Drug Dealer
Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Tyler, TX
Oddometer: 1,584
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Quote:
Tires are made out of different compounds, roads are made of different materials. Each has their own coefficient of friction differing from dry to wet. To have a rule of thumb, you would have to know all the variables as mentioned. The only rule of thumb is, whatever traction you have when dry, there is less when wet. |
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07-03-2012, 11:31 AM
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#17 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: NYC
Oddometer: 318
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![]() This should be a sticky. Thank you for a great article. |
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07-03-2012, 11:34 AM
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#18 |
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silly aluminum boxes
Joined: May 2012
Location: Detroit & Düsseldorf
Oddometer: 634
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Thanks for cross-posting that. I just finished his book, was a really solid read. What a great guy!
I'm an inveterate trail braker. I just do it. It drove my riding instructor abso-fucking-lutely nuts until he realized that I just do it and if I could do it, good. He started to work with it more heavily (German driving instructor, so no racing allowed), and now, he is quite proficient and gets the point. Once you learn to trail brake, you will see turns a whole new way. Decreasing radius turns no longer are scary, because so what? Just keep slowing gently. It works!
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Katherine - F650GSa |
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07-03-2012, 11:48 AM
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#19 | |
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No trick too cheap
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: 3rd Coast
Oddometer: 523
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Quote:
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07-03-2012, 11:52 AM
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#20 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2003
Location: South Florida
Oddometer: 811
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Quote:
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Sometimes you just gotta! |
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07-03-2012, 11:56 AM
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#21 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: May 2009
Location: Watertown NY
Oddometer: 825
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I am not sure the numbers but someone who designs roads could give you the traction co-efficient for a given turn, all factors being equal. But the final outcome based on his numbers will be generic and may or may not work well for a bike since they do the numbers based on auto's etc.
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David 2005 KTM950 Adventure, 2005 Yamaha Vmax, 2005 Suzuki SV650S, 1991 Honda VFR750, 1990 Honda Hawk GT, 2004 Honda CRF250X, 2000 Buell Blast................ |
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07-03-2012, 12:06 PM
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#22 |
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silly aluminum boxes
Joined: May 2012
Location: Detroit & Düsseldorf
Oddometer: 634
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Traction is a transient condition. We in da biz will only commit to "more", "similar" or "less".
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Katherine - F650GSa |
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07-03-2012, 12:06 PM
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#23 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Washington, D.C.
Oddometer: 440
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Here's a dumb question.
First, a preface: I consider myself a very techno-friendly rider. Meaning, I'm not at all averse to whatever 21st century gizmo can be added to the bike to make it easier or safer to ride. No, I don't want the stuff legislated, and no, I don't want it on every bike. But I like having a marketplace that supports making all the nifty gizmos and doo-dads available to the riders that want them. With that out of the way... I can't recall any training course / motorcycle expert / experienced rider tell me anything different from "always brake progressively." Holding a baby bird, cradling an eggshell, counting "one-one thousand"-- whatever you call it, everyone says the same thing: don't grab or slam on the brakes or else bad things can happen. Now, maybe there are instances you need to grab or slam the brakes as hard as you can (on dirt, maybe? I don't ride dirt, I wouldn't know). But on the street? So... where are all the electronic-assisted brake options out there? It seems to me that wiring the front and/or rear brakes on a street bike with a system that resists grabbing/slamming and progressively engages the brakes no matter how hard you yank on them would avoid go a long way to avoiding this problem, no? Alright, what's wrong with this option? Fire away... |
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07-03-2012, 12:14 PM
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#24 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: May 2009
Location: Watertown NY
Oddometer: 825
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Quote:
__________________
David 2005 KTM950 Adventure, 2005 Yamaha Vmax, 2005 Suzuki SV650S, 1991 Honda VFR750, 1990 Honda Hawk GT, 2004 Honda CRF250X, 2000 Buell Blast................ |
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07-03-2012, 12:28 PM
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#25 |
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Banned
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: PNW
Oddometer: 1,097
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awesome read, a reason why I hate linked braking but love abs
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07-03-2012, 12:54 PM
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#26 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Washington, D.C.
Oddometer: 440
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Really?? Hadn't noticed.
![]() Quote:
ABS indeed works best in a straight line situation, but to my knowledge, works only when traction is lost, i.e. ABS kicks in the moment a wheel locks to release and re-brake. It seems to me, however, that there may be benefit to a system that engages the brakes progressively BEFORE wheel lock is achieved and ABS would be required. Perhaps (some) bike ABS systems do this already; I'm unaware of the technical differences between the various ABS systems out there. Again, if the ideal is to brake progressively to avoid locking and losing traction-- yes, even in cornering, thank you very much-- why not have an electronic system that addresses this problem before it becomes a problem, versus after? |
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07-03-2012, 01:05 PM
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#27 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: May 2008
Location: Huntsville, AL
Oddometer: 4,176
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Quote:
Of course, plenty of riders don't really understand what they are doing so more electronic safety devices may just save their asses. |
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07-03-2012, 01:16 PM
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#28 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Annapolis Maryland
Oddometer: 1,376
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For the guy wondering about measuring traction changes as conditions change.
Go straight, pull in clutch, apply back brake until tire locks, unlock wheel get a feel for how much pressure it takes to do this. Wait for conditions to change, repeat above. I do that whenever I wonder what the actual traction of the road is. You do it enough you'll develop allot of confidence in shitty conditions. |
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07-03-2012, 01:19 PM
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#29 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: May 2009
Location: Watertown NY
Oddometer: 825
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Quote:
__________________
David 2005 KTM950 Adventure, 2005 Yamaha Vmax, 2005 Suzuki SV650S, 1991 Honda VFR750, 1990 Honda Hawk GT, 2004 Honda CRF250X, 2000 Buell Blast................ |
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07-03-2012, 01:19 PM
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#30 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Annapolis Maryland
Oddometer: 1,376
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Quote:
Your understand of ABS is flawed, a good system detects that the wheel is slowing down faster than it can possibly slow down, and should start to release pressure before the wheel is actually locked. This is why with training a good person can outbrake ABS by a bit because the person can keep it right on the threshold of maxium braking about 5-10% slip depending on tires, meaning the braking tires are turning 5-10% slower than actual speed over ground, versus abs going from below maxium braking and 0% slip back to 15% slip and repeating. |
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